24 Review (s)

  1. Anna Vasilievna

    This year the apples fell. We can say almost 80% of the harvest lay on the ground. Some of the litter was affected by the codling moth, some simply rotted. What can be done in the fall to prevent such a story from repeating itself?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      The disease you are talking about is moniliosis. The pathogen has adapted to Russian winters and will now be constantly present in our gardens. Therefore, struggle is mandatory! We need to start in the fall. Collect and destroy damaged fruits both on the ground and on the tree. Under no circumstances should rotten fruits be placed in compost. It is mandatory to prune drying branches at any time as soon as you notice them.

      After leaf fall, carry out eradicating spraying with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or 6-8% urea solution. We spray both the crown and the tree trunk.

      There is no point in fighting the codling moth in the fall. Trees must be treated against it next summer. Keep in mind: the codling moth primarily attacks fruits damaged by pathogens.
      This year, most fruit and berry plants were damaged by fungal diseases. Therefore, after leaf fall, I advise eradicating spraying of all plants with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or urea.

      Reply
  2. Vyacheslav, Dmitrovsky district. Moscow region

    About five years ago I planted an apple, cherry, and pear tree. I bought seedlings from different places. This year, brown spots began to appear on the leaves, grow, and then holes appear in this place. The apples also have brown spots.
    Last year, a crack appeared on the trunk of the apple tree at the bottom, I cleaned it out and covered it with varnish. But now an ulcer has appeared in this place.
    There is also a canker on the plum trunk at a height of 1 m. I'm a beginner gardener. What should I do with the trees, how can I help them?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Without laboratory analysis, it is difficult to make an accurate diagnosis. From the photograph it looks like both common nectriosis and a bacterial burn. Holes on the sheets are a symptom of clasterosporiasis. If the trunk is healthy, try to treat for this disease.

      I would remove diseased trees, since it is not individual branches that are affected, but the trunk. They will die anyway in a couple of years, and they will infect other plants.

      Reply
  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Control measures for bark diseases in apple and other fruit trees

    1. Cleaning wounds with a sharp knife to a living bark. Disinfection, putty with garden pitch.
    2. Treatment in early spring and autumn with a 3% Bordeaux mixture, copper or iron sulfate, or "Abiga-Peak", "HOM".
    3. Starting from the green cone phase, spraying with copper-containing and other chemical and biological products. The number of treatments depends on the weather, the intensity of the disease.
    4. Prevention against cancer:
    Compliance with agricultural technology, diet, watering,
    – regular cutting of the affected branches,
    - cleaning of wounds and hollows with subsequent disinfection, puttying the wounds with garden pitch, Z sealing hollows,
    - in autumn and early spring, cleaning the trunk and skeletal branches from dead bark, mosses, lichens, cutting out drying branches, whitewashing, cleaning the litter.

    Reply
  4. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Bacterial seedling cancer

    Pathogen: Agrobacterium tumefaciens bacterium. It does not affect the viability of plants immediately, after 2-4 years. The pathogen develops better on seedlings grown on soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction; acidic environment inhibits bacteria. Cancer growths can break down, releasing bacteria that remain in the soil in the form of resting spores for several years.
    Symptoms
    Saplings or young trees dry up. The roots and root neck of seedlings are affected. Getting into the plant through wounds on the roots, bacteria cause increased cell division, which results in the formation of hard woody growths of various sizes.
    PROTECTION MEASURES
    To date, not developed. Infected planting material is discarded and destroyed. For prevention, the roots are disinfected in solutions of copper preparations, the antibiotic "Fitolavin-300" and its derivatives ("Fitoplasmin-VRK", "Pseudobacterin-3").

    What is sick
    Apple, pear, rarely stone fruit trees, also roses, grapes, raspberries, dahlias, chrysanthemums.

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
  5. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Disease milky shine

    Pathogen: Stereum purpureum. It usually occurs in areas with cold winters, on trees with frozen wood, sometimes after improper untimely pruning.
    Symptoms
    The leaves become light gray, shiny, with a silvery milky tint due to the resulting bundles of tissue and air cavities. Subsequently, the growth of the leaves stops, they become small, dry, brittle with necrotic edges. Milky shine can appear both on individual branches and on the whole tree. On the cut of the affected branches, the wood usually has a brown color, and by autumn, the bodies of the pathogen fungus are formed on the bark in the form of leathery thin grayish plates 2-3 cm in size.
    WHAT PLANTS AFFECT
    All fruit crops, but more often apple, pear, plum,

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Cytosporosis

    Pathogen: fungi of the genus Cytospora. Shoots, branches and trunks are affected. Trees that are weakened due to poor care, having sunburn, cracks from frost cracks and mechanical damage are susceptible.
    Symptoms
    Initially, individual sections of the bark of the branches die off. The surface of the affected bark is covered with large visible tubercles, it becomes similar to "goose bumps". Unlike black crayfish, the bark does not turn black, but retains its color and does not separate from the wood (wet, but does not crumble). From the bark, the fungus passes into the cambium, then into the wood, which leads to the complete drying of the branches, trunk and the whole tree.
    WHAT PLANTS AFFECT
    Apple, pear and stone fruits.

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
  7. Natalia Protseva

    In our garden, most apple trees have no fruit at all. Is there any way to save the trees (pictured)? Or is it better to plant a young garden in the same place?

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - The photo clearly shows that no one looked after the garden for the last 4-5 years. Young trees do not grow, the trunks are covered with a bloom of moss, perennial weeds in the near-trunk circles and aisles. With proper care (fertilization, pruning, pest and disease control), the trees will fully recover within 3-4 years and will give a good harvest. But my advice to you: start the reconstruction. Allocate part of the garden area for new plantings. At this place, uproot the trees, plow the land, apply fertilizers - and in the fall of this year you can plant a new garden.

      Reply
  8. Arina Kuleshova, Moscow

    A crack appeared on the trunk of the apple tree (pictured). The apple tree is on strike this year and has produced only 1 apple. Prior to that, for 2 years in a row, I had a good harvest. Tell me, what is this problem and how to fight?

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - The resulting crack on the trunk of the apple tree is the result of a mismatch between the growth of wood and bark. The wood on young trees grows more intensively and the bark is slower. The wood presses against the bark causing it to break.

      To prevent this phenomenon in gardening, there is a special technique - furrowing. The bottom line is this: in the early spring, a longitudinal section of the bark is made with a sharp knife. It turns out a small scar, but cracking is avoided.
      In your case, Arina, it's too late to make the cut. Therefore, in the spring, warm up a small amount of garden varnish and rub it with your fingers into the crack. During the growing season, it should overgrow, forming a fresh scar.

      Reply
  9. Natalia Emelyanova, Moscow region

    Something incomprehensible has grown on the trunk of a young apple tree - in the photo. I noticed the "stranger" last year, and this season it has increased. What to do?

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Adventitious roots have formed on the stem. The seedling is grafted on a maple rootstock, a feature of which is the ability to actively form roots on branches dug into the soil, or simply in conditions favorable for root formation (with high humidity and shading). That is why such seedlings are recommended to be planted deeply to the grafting site, since the additional roots formed on the rootstock will only benefit the tree.
      In your case, the tree is planted high. You can add soil under the base of the trunk (but not above the grafting site). Or paint over the roots with garden paint to protect them from damage and then prevent disease. By the way, I advise you to paint the entire trunk and tie it to the stake, since the formation of additional roots may indicate that the plant lacks support. Another option: since the tree is clearly planted recently, in the fall it can be carefully dug out with a clod of earth and planted back with a deepening to the grafting site.

      Reply
  10. Natalia Kharchenko

    On some trunks of fruit trees, the bark began to dry out and turn black, as if burnt (pictured). The garden store advised me to buy chemicals, but the treatments did not help. What to do?

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - From the photo it can be assumed that the trees are affected by a serious fungal disease - black cancer. Symptoms of the disease: black spots form on the leaves, and black rot appears on the fruits. In addition, the crust darkens, cracks appear on its surface, because of which it begins to turn inside out. What to do? Immediately deal with the treatment of wounds - remove the affected areas with a sharp knife, capturing up to 2 cm of healthy bark (first lay a litter under the tree, then collect the bark and burn it). Then disinfect the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate (10-20 g per 1 liter of water) and cover with garden varnish.
      But!

      If the bark disease has already spread to more than 50% of the circumference of the trunk, then it is better to cut down and burn the tree. And next time for planting choose plants resistant to diseases and zoned varieties.

      Reply
  11. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    A cobweb appeared on the apple tree. What to do: cut off the branches or can you wash off the cobweb and treat the crown with some drug?
    Elena Nemcheva

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - A cobweb on an apple tree is a sign of damage by pests. It could be a spider moth. If there are caterpillars in the web, then it is most likely a silkworm or moth. If there are worms, it is a moth. If the leaves are curled, this is the work of a leaf roll. A spider mite and a copperhead also leave a cobweb.

      Control measures
      Be sure to remove and destroy the caterpillars that look like small worms, as well as their nests, so that new pest larvae do not mature in the future. Cut and burn the cocoons, if any.
      After harvesting, spray the crown with a biological product (for example, Ento-bacterin or Dendrobacillin) according to the instructions. Repeat the treatment in early spring (before bud break).

      Reply
  12. I. Kondratenko, Tula

    In the spring, a whole branch of an apple tree suddenly dried up. What could be the reason?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      There can be several reasons for the drying of branches. In recent years, winters have been noted with very low temperatures with little snow. This led to the freezing of boles, skeletal branches and roots. In the spring, the buds begin to bloom, the leaves grow and suddenly dry. Cracking of the bark and drying out of the wood later appear.
      If the branch dries out on the north side of the crown, then this may be frostbite during the passage of a cold wave, and if on the south, then the consequences of sun-frost burns. In this case, cracking of the crust is observed already in early summer.
      When the root system of a tree is frozen, the swollen buds do not bloom for a long time, turn brown and dry out, and the trees die. Damage at low temperatures leads to slow drying of trees. This year, a mass manifestation of the death of young fruit trees, both pome and stone fruit species, is observed.
      The drying of a single branch can also cause the manifestation of necrosis of the cortex of cytosporosis. The bark dries out, a large number of small point fruit bodies form in it, and the branch dries up. The infection spreads to neighboring branches, and with a mass manifestation, the tree can die. The disease most often spreads with planting material from the nursery, and then there is a re-infection in our gardens.
      Cancer of the bark can also be caused by cancers of the cortex, black cancer and common, or European, cancer. In the first case, the defeat of the cortex is similar to cytosporosis, but the cortex is covered with a black coating, cracking and disappearing. Black cancer manifests itself in the forks of skeletal branches and causes their gradual drying.

      Affected branches are constantly cut, and the trees acquire an ugly crown. With the defeat of ordinary, or European, cancer, longitudinal cracks appear on the branches and stems, which gradually deepen, and ulcers of the open type with raised edges from callus tissue form.
      Stem pests can also be caused by stem pests, fruit-tree sphincter, wrinkled-hedgehog, and western unpaired bark beetle, which are determined by the presence of circular punctate openings.

      Or maybe there is also an external pest, the scabby apple-tree, with a large number of which the drying of the bark and entire branches of young trees is observed.
      To determine what caused the drying of the branches, it is necessary to carefully examine the bark of the stem and skeletal branches. If no noticeable damage has been identified, then most likely this is a consequence of low temperatures or even groundwater, which in low places causes root system to lock and gradually branch out.
      I. Tsypushtanova, phytopathologist

      Reply
  13. Alexey Klochevsky

    At the apple tree, the top of the head turned black. I understand what needs to be cut. But will I save the tree like that? Maybe something else needs to be done?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Cut off the blackened crown. But whether this will help save the tree is impossible to say with certainty. After all, you do not write how old the plant is when you find that the top dries, leaves have fallen, or leaves have remained on the top of the head. This spring, I advise you to pay attention to how the apple tree grows and develops. If not, send a photo.

      Reply
  14. Mantas Alyukonis, Vilnius city

    Tell me, what about the apple tree (pictured)? The feeling that the damaged places on the trunk oozing honey from the inside - too many flies to them. The tree grows near the standpipe, the soil is constantly wet.

    Apple bark diseases

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Judging by the photo, your tree came out after the winter with sunburns, frost pits. The viscous sticky discharge that you mistook for honey is most likely gum (most often found in stone fruit - plums, cherries).
      If the stem is damaged by frost, the first sign is a darkening of the cortex in the form of wide, blurry spots. Later, in these places, the crust cracks (often longitudinal gaps appear) and lag behind the trunk. In addition, wounds become the "gateway" for a number of infections.
      For the future: if you notice minor cracking, treat these places with garden varnish or emulsion paint with the addition of fungicide and tie (tie only one season, then remove to avoid constriction).

      In your case, clean the ulcers on the stem to healthy wood and treat them with garden var. In the fall (after the fall of most of the foliage) and in the spring (when the buds swell), to prevent the appearance of diseases and pests, spray the garden with copper-containing preparations (for example, HOM, Abiga-Peak).
      And another thing: permanently waterlogged soil is also not good for the tree, since gas exchange in the root system is disrupted, which can lead to the death of the plant. Keep this in mind when planting trees.

      Reply

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