LANDING OF AUTUMN IN AUTUMN - TECHNOLOGY AND RULES

TIME TO PLANT LILAC

SPRING HAS LONG LONG AGAIN WASTE BY RAINS DRINKING AROMAS OF LILENS, AUTUMN IS APPROXIMATING. AND MEANS IT IS TIME TO PLANT THE MOST Lilac DREAMS, WITH THE FLOWERING AND ODOR OF WHICH WE WILL ENJOY IN THE NEXT MAY

© Author: KSENIYA KRUGLOVA, Candidate of Biological Sciences, member of the International Siren Society!

AUTUMN - PLANT LILARS EARLY AND NOT LATER

In the central zone of Russia, the best time for planting common lilac and its varieties begins in late August and lasts until mid-September. If the autumn is long and warm, then you can plant this plant longer, until the end of September.

By the end of summer, the lilac has already run out of shoot growth, flower buds have laid, and before the onset of frost, seedlings still have time to root well in a permanent place. By September, rains begin, which are enough for the normal growth and development of young roots - and for good survival of plants. (As for specimens planted in the spring, they often die precisely because of insufficient moisture in the soil.)

As a rule, by mid-October, before the onset of stable frosts, plants fully take root and give a normal growth (and sometimes bloom the following spring), while during spring or late autumn planting, growth is practically not observed, and flower buds are deformed, dry or not planted .

So, in September, gardeners successfully plant and transplant different lilac seedlings - annual, biennial and older, large-sized bushes, plants with open and closed root systems, grafted and root-bearing, on the stem and in free form. At the same time, 2-3-year-old rooted cuttings and seedlings from a schoolhouse or greenhouse for planting are planted on XNUMX ridges.

The recommended planting time for common lilacs coincides with the optimal time for planting other types of lilacs - Hungarian, late Preston hybrids, Amur and Beijing, Meyer and others, less common.

Terms

Lilacs love well-lit (better in the morning) and protected from the winds landing site. In partial shade, its flowering is weak, and in the sunshine inflorescences are formed small.

For lilac, you can not choose areas with close standing of groundwater, swampy and flooded (even for a short time). In an extreme case, it is still planted there - but only on embankments and mounds.

Soil lilac prefers fertile, well-structured. Cultivated loams are suitable for this plant in the middle lane. On soils with an acid reaction, ash and lime are introduced into the planting pits. Varietal lilacs need cultivated fertile soil with good drainage.

Preparing a pit for planting lilacs

Landing pits for lilacs are best prepared in advance. With autumn planting - at least 2 weeks; with early spring - in the fall. They dig a planting hole for lilac seedlings based on the size of the root system, the age of the plant and the degree of cultivation of the soil.

They begin to prepare a pit for autumn planting in late May -June. The first two years, the lilac seedling builds up the root system within the planting pit - the better it is prepared, the faster and better the plant will develop.

For seedlings of 2-4 years of age, the ratio of the diameter and depth of the pit is 40-50 by 35-45 cm, respectively.

The heavier the soil, the larger should be the size of the pit. For heavy loamy soils, the size is increased to 70 x 60 cm, and drainage made of broken brick or stone is laid at the bottom.

It is better to dig a hole in the form of a cylinder with steep walls for uniform development of the root system of a young plant.

The distance between seedlings is calculated individually depending on the purpose of planting. If planted in a group (2 - 5 pieces nearby), then the distance between plants should not be less than 1 - 1,5 m.

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See also:  Types of lilacs - photo and description, planting and care

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Refuel the pit

The lilac pit is filled with a mixture of fertile soil, organic and mineral fertilizers. When they begin to dig a hole, they immediately divide the soil. The upper fertile layer is used to prepare the soil mixture, and the earth from the infertile layer of the parent rock is taken out or scattered in the aisles.

Humus, semi-rotten manure and weathered peat are added to the soil. About one 20 kg of organics will be needed per landing pit. If the soil is acidic, then it is additionally lime. From mineral fertilizers, granular superphosphate (700-900 g), bone meal (300 g), potassium sulfate (90-150 g) and wood ash (700-900 g) are added. Most of the organic and mineral fertilizers should fall into the lower part of the pit, and already the upper part can be covered with any fertile soil or humus.

Fertilizers are very thoroughly mixed with the soil, the pit is poured over the soil, and by the time of planting the soil in the pit has time to settle. With this layer-by-layer soil distribution, the seedling will have enough food reserves for several years to come. If the soil mixture is not enough to fill the pit, then top-up fertile soil without fertilizers or compost.

HOW TO CORRECTLY PLANT LILAC IN AUTUMN

1. Initial actions depend on the type of seedling. If you have a seedling with a closed root system, then the planting technique consists in transferring a moistened coma with earth to the planting pit. If the roots are open, then at first they look to see if they are damaged. Damaged roots are carefully cut to living tissue with a sharpened knife or secateurs. If the roots have dried up or the weather is dry, they are lowered into the clay mash.

Has the soil settled? When planting in an already settled soil filled with fertilizers, a recess is made with a shovel and the root system of a lilac seedling is freely placed. Curved roots are gently straightened and sprinkled with earth. The root neck of the lilac should be at the top. It cannot be buried. If the pit was prepared in two weeks, and the soil did not have time to settle well, then before planting in the pit fertile earth is poured to half the volume and compacted evenly.

Then, in the center of the pit, a loose hill is made almost flush with the soil, and the roots of the seedling are laid on it and gently fall asleep so that the root neck is at 4 - 6 cm above the soil level. The seedling should be upright. After subsidence and compaction of the soil, the root neck will be at the right level.

After the pit is filled, gently trample the earth from the periphery to the center. If the soil is not compacted, “air sacs” form around the roots of the seedling. Due to these voids, the root system develops worse and can be damaged in the winter.

Then the lilac must be watered. Around the seedling along the perimeter of the pit make a bulk roller to water it was convenient. Water is needed not only for soil moisture, but for compaction so that the roots are in the ground, and not in an air bag. Approximately 15 - 20 L of water is needed per well. If the water has eroded the roots or the soil has settled strongly after irrigation, fertile soil is added to the pit.

Do not miss the deadlines for the optimal planting of lilacs - and you will surely succeed!

ON A NOTE:

The planting pit is seasoned with organic and mineral fertilizers, however, their excessive application is detrimental to lilacs and can inhibit the growth of seedlings. It is better to conduct foliar top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers or trace elements after some time.

In the future, lilacs should be fed in the fall with furnace ash (an alternative is potassium sulfate).

Once in 2-3 of the year, granular superphosphate is added, preferably in a mixture with peat compost. And the garden beauty will need phosphorus for abundant and magnificent flowering.

FOR THE NOTICE

When planted too deeply, the roots of lilac do not have enough air, as a result, the plants develop poorly, do not bloom or die. If the root neck is too high, the roots are dried (and the roots are a weak spot in the lilac), the plant also grows more slowly and can die.

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LILAC PLANTING IN AUTUMN - TIPS AND FEEDBACK FROM GARDENERS

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LATE LILAC SEEDLINGS

It happens that the lilac seedlings were sent too late, or you hesitated with planting it. Follow a few recommendations, then the plant will safely endure the winter. If less than a month remains before the onset of frost. After planting and watering, the trunk circle must be covered with a dry leaf, shavings or peat. A thick (20 cm or more) layer of mulch will prevent the ground from freezing quickly, which will add rooting time.

The base of the trunks must be isolated from the mulch so as not to provoke rot. The easiest way is to cut a "ring" from a plastic bottle and set it (by cutting along the end) around the barrel. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the mulch should be removed.

Frost was found with already dug planting material - dig it obliquely in a protected corner of the garden, like fruit seedlings. You will be planting in the spring. But with adult lilacs, this number will not work. We leave them in the same place until next autumn (September). And if you can't wait in any way, we turn to specialists in winter transplantation of large-sized ones.

BTW

I recommend preparing the holes in advance, because the earlier you plant a bush in spring, the better it will take root. The beginning of the spring planting is limited only by the ability to dig the ground, so the finished hole will have to be very "in the yard."

In the first summer, any lilac transplanted with an open root system may develop worse. This is reflected in a weak growth of shoots and inadequate flowering. The transplanted at the wrong time “gets sick” longer. Such a bush needs to be monitored, watered and sprayed, perhaps even protected from wind and sun.

© Author: Irina OKUNEVA, Ph.D. biol. Sciences, Moscow

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See also: Useful properties of lilacs about which few people know

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PLANTING LILAC IN AUTUMN: VIDEO

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