Growing thermophilic plants (fruits and vegetables) in a cold climate - zoned varieties and care
Contents ✓
- ✓ HEAT-Loving Eggplants - Grades and Care
- ✓ OPEN SOIL
- ✓ SELECTION OF VARIETY EGGPLISHED UNDER YOUR CLIMATE
- ✓ HEAT-LOVING CUCUMBERS - VARIETIES AND CARE
- ✓ GROWING CUCUMBERS IN OPEN GROUND
- ✓ Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse
- ✓ HEAT-LOVING TOMATOES - VARIETIES AND CARE
- ✓ Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse
- ✓ GROWING TOMATOES IN OPEN SOIL
- ✓ ZONED AND PERSPECTIVE TOMATO VARIETIES
- ✓ HEAT-LIKE PEPPER - VARIETIES AND CARE
- ✓ Growing sweet peppers in open ground. RECOMMENDATIONS BY SPECIALISTS
- ✓ Growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse. TIPS OF EXPERIENCED TUBES
- ✓ GROWING SWEET PEPPERS. HUMAN RESOURCE MEMORY
- ✓ VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS OF SWEET PEPPER FOR BELARUS AND THE MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA
- ✓ HEAT LOVING Raspberries - VARIETIES AND CARE
- ✓ Breeding of raspberry raspberries with root extracts
- ✓ Varieties of raspberries. HOW NOT TO ERROR IN THE CHOICE
- ✓ Yellow raspberry
- ✓ CHERRY IN BELARUS AND THE MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA
- ✓ HEAT LOVING APRICOTS - VARIETIES AND CARE
- ✓ Watermelon and melon
- ✓ EXOTIC FLOWERS AND DECORATIVE PLANTS IN THE CONTAINER GARDEN
HEAT LOVING PLANTS IN THE COLD CLIMATE (MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA, BELARUS, SIBERIA, URAL, etc.)
Many of the crops that we grow in our gardens and on beds in the garden can be attributed to heat-loving. So, to get a crop in our harsh climate, you have to work hard and provide plants with suitable conditions. We devoted this article to such southern "guests" and designed it in the form of a small but very valuable encyclopedia in which you will find the recommendations of experts and the advice of experienced summer residents to grow popular thermophilic inhabitants of the garden: from cucumbers and tomatoes familiar to everyone, to melons and gourds exotic ornamental plants.
Read, put into service and get rich harvests with us!
HEAT-Loving Eggplants - Grades and Care
The birthplace of this unique plant is considered to be Southeast Asia - more precisely, Burma and the tropical regions of India. In this area, wild ancestors of eggplant are still found. Europeans first met eggplant in 331–325. BC e., thanks to the Indian and Persian campaigns of Alexander the Great. An interesting fact is that for a long time eggplants were considered harmful and poisonous.
The ancient Greeks and Romans called them "rabies apples" and believed that eating eggplant could lead to clouding of reason. And these are not empty fears: when grown improperly, the fruits accumulated solanine, which could cause poisoning with hallucinations and even violent behavior.
It is interesting
Many of us are accustomed to the fact that the eggplants are always dark purple, although in fact their "assortment" is much wider: in the stage of technical ripeness, the fruits can have purple, lilac with stripes, dark green with pigmentation, green or white color, and in the biological - gray, orange, lemon yellow, brown-orange, yellow, orange-red, red-violet, brown or dark brown. Calcium and magnesium salts give a blue color, and potassium salt - purple. A different ratio of these salts leads to a variety of coloration of the fruit.
The eggplant was not in vain awarded the title of “Indian Prince” - it is one of the most capricious garden crops. Plants are sensitive to temperature fluctuations, extremely demanding on the soil, are light and moisture-loving. However, Belarusian and Russian vegetable growers have long found an approach to this “lady of royal blood” and are sure that with proper agricultural technology eggplant can be grown even in harsh climates.
The best time for planting eggplant seeds for seedlings in Belarus and central Russia is mid-February. Since in other regions these terms can be shifted, you should focus primarily on the time of planting young eggplants in open ground or in a greenhouse. In this case, the summer resident should know a simple rule: usually 60-80 days pass from planting seeds on seedlings to planting eggplant seedlings at a constant place.
If you decide to make friends with this capricious crop, consider the fact that the eggplant seeds have a fairly low germination (about 50%). Therefore, about a month before sowing, the seeds can be put in cloth bags and placed on 24 hours in warm water, then transferred to a saucer and left in a warm room.
It is important that the seed bag is always wet. After about a week, the seeds begin to germinate - and you can identify the most “promising” varieties and seeds. Immediately before planting, the eggplant seeds are soaked for half an hour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection, then washed with water, placed in a tissue or gauze bag and dipped in a warm nutrient solution (infusion of wood ash, aloe juice, etc.) for a day. After that, the seeds are laid out on a plate and left in a warm place for germination.
The soil for growing eggplant seedlings should be light, breathable and sufficiently nutritious. It is best to use a mixture of one part of sod land and two parts of humus. Another option: turf land + humus (in equal proportions) + mineral fertilizers.
It is advisable to plant eggplant seeds immediately in separate pots so as not to injure the sensitive root system during transplantation. 3 seeds need to be planted in each container to select the strongest shoot in the future (the rest are removed).
After 2 or more true leaflets appear on the plants (about a month after planting), the seedlings are transplanted into a large container with a diameter of about 8 cm and a height of about 10 cm.It is important to preserve the integrity of the earthen coma so as not to injure the root system.
Eggplant seedlings are fed 3 times: in the 1-2 phase of real leaves and then with an interval of 10-14 days. First feeding: for each 1 and 2 soil, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of superphosphate and 5 g of potassium salt are required. During the second and third feeding, the amount of fertilizer is doubled.
In order to grow good seedlings of eggplant, it is important to maintain soil moisture at 80% and air humidity within 60-70%.
The first watering of seedlings is possible only on the third day after the emergence of seedlings and always under the root (before this, the containers with seeds are sprayed from the spray), in the future, the interval between watering is 5 days.
The rules of healthy eggplant seedlings
- Regular watering of seedlings with warm (about 30 degrees) water so that moisture does not get on the leaves.
- Daylight hours no longer than 14 hours.
- Regular shallow loosening of the soil to ensure better breathability.
- Thinning seedlings, removing weak plants in favor of stronger ones.
- Timely application of mineral and organic fertilizers.
It is very important to harden eggplant seedlings. This procedure is especially relevant if the plants are planted in the ground under film shelters. To prepare seedlings, a couple of weeks before planting on a permanent place in the daytime, they are carried out on a glazed balcony.
EGGPLANT IN GREENHOUSE
Eggplant seedlings are planted in the greenhouse in late April - early May.
When growing eggplants in sheltered soil, plants need to be provided with soil rich in organic matter. The beds are constructed according to the scheme 40 × 50 cm. The first 3-4 days after planting in the greenhouse, the plants are shaded from sunlight and watered daily. Over time, watering becomes less frequent, and after each moistening, the soil is loosened so that a crust does not form. Ventilate the greenhouse every day. The temperature should be between 20-28 ° C. A significant decrease (up to 15 ° C) or an increase in temperature (for example, on hot days up to 35-40 ° C) will negatively affect the plants: pollination and fruit setting become impossible at critical temperatures, and at low temperatures the bushes stop growing.
To create the most comfortable conditions for plants in the greenhouse and to control the microclimate, install 2 thermometers: one as close to the ground as possible, and the second under the roof in the center of the greenhouse.
When grown in a greenhouse, eggplants do not stepchild. But you should not refuse sanitary pruning: regularly remove yellow, diseased and damaged leaves and shoots.
Since eggplant bushes grow taller in sheltered soil than in open ground, plants need to be tied up. At the same time, you need to follow a few simple rules: plants are tied to the trellis carefully so as not to break the fragile stems, and do it in 3 places.
Low varieties of eggplant do not require a garter - just remove the extra shoots on the main stem in a timely manner, leaving the most powerful and fruiting.
OPEN SOIL
Eggplant seedlings are planted in open ground after the threat of frost passes, and the soil and air warm up to 16-18 ° C.
Eggplant will actively grow and produce crops in a well-lit area with fertile and drained soil without stagnation of moisture, protected from drafts and cold winds. Good predecessors for eggplant are cabbage, cucumbers and legumes. But after potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, tobacco and pepper, eggplant can be planted no earlier than in 4 of the year.
If the soil on the site is loamy, for each square meter, a bucket of rotted sawdust and rotted manure and 2 bucket of peat are applied.
Preparation of the site for growing eggplant begins with an autumn digging. In spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm and fertilized with: “Sodium humate” solution (1 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 m2 or Effekton solution (2 tablespoon per 10 l of water) based on 3-4 l on 1 m2.
Immediately prior to planting, 1 teaspoons are added to each 2 m1 bed. urea + 1 Art. l potassium sulfate + 1 Art. l superphosphate + 1 glass of wood ash.
Experts recommend growing eggplants according to a two-line tape scheme. The distance between the ribbons is 80–90 cm, and between the rows in the ribbon is 45–50 cm. The distance between the plants in the row is 25–30 cm. The so-called ordinary planting method can also be used: with row spacing of 70 cm and row spacing between plants 30-40 cm. Eggplants are also grown by the square-nesting method - according to the scheme 70 × 70 cm, placing 2 plants in each nest.
By the way
The planting scheme for eggplant depends on the variety: for early ripening small-fruited varieties, it is 40 × 40 cm, for medium early varieties - 40 × 50 or 50 × 50 cm. That is, from 1 to 2 plants can be placed on 4 mXNUMX of beds.
When planting seedlings in a permanent place, the root lump is buried in the soil by 3-4 cm - that is, to the lower leaves. Immediately after planting, the plants are watered, and the soil is mulched with peat or humus.
Eggplants are quite sensitive to cooling and even slight temperature fluctuations. Prolonged cooling to 6-8 ° C and cold rain can lead to a sharp decrease in yield. To avoid the negative impact of natural factors, beds with eggplant are additionally insulated with film, pulling it on wire arches at an altitude of 1 m from the ground.
If you planted eggplant seedlings in open ground in mid-May, do not be too lazy to cover the bed with plants with a double layer of film or spunbond.
The main care for eggplant in the open ground includes regular cultivation and weeding, pest and disease control, watering and top dressing.
Eggplant loves to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. It is best to water the plants by sprinkling from a 1 watering can once a week until the bushes bloom. On 1 m2, an average of 10 l of water is consumed. At too high ambient temperature, the frequency of irrigation is increased by 2 times. If you can visit the summer cottage only on weekends, feel free to increase the watering rate to 15 l by 1 m2. Water the eggplant only with warm (about 25 ° C) water.
Twice during the growing season eggplant spud.
Plants are fed 3 to 5 times per season - every 2 weeks.
When the bushes of eggplant reach a height of 25-30 cm, their tops are cut off - after which the plants begin to branch and grow in breadth.
After the shoots appear on each bush, 4-5 of the upper ones are left (they will yield the crop), and the rest are removed. This procedure is especially relevant for mid-season and late varieties. To better develop the ovaries, the lateral shoots and leaves shading the flowers are also removed. The side “empty” shoots, on which there are no buds, as well as all shoots below the place of the first branching of the main shoot, are also removed.
The first crop is harvested about a month after the beginning of flowering with an interval of a week. The fruits are cut with a knife or secateurs with part of the stem. Optimal for eggplant storage are temperatures from 7 to 10 degrees above zero and relative humidity within 80-90%.
Это важно!
In no case can torn eggplants be stored in the light, because under the influence of ultraviolet, poisonous solanine is formed in them.
SELECTION OF VARIETY EGGPLISHED UNDER YOUR CLIMATE
Today, a large number of eggplant varieties are available to vegetable growers, and in this regard, it is especially important not to make a mistake in choosing. In central Russia and Belarus, cultivars intended for the southern zone should not be cultivated. It is better to choose a variety or hybrid recommended for a particular region. It is also possible to select varieties suitable for open or protected ground. If eggplant is grown in the northern regions, it is worth paying attention to varieties that are resistant to low temperatures.
Eggplant varieties without characteristic bitterness
Early varieties and hybrids Alekseevsky. Fruits ripen on the 90-100th day after full germination. The fruit is cylindrical in shape, dark purple in color, glossy, smooth. Length - 15-18 cm, weight - from 100 to 190 g. The pulp is dense, white, with a pleasant taste. The variety is resistant to tobacco and cucumber mosaic viruses, tolerant to other diseases. Productivity in film greenhouses is 8-10 kg from 1 m2.
F1 Hippo. Fruits ripen on the 100th day after full germination. The fruit is pear-shaped, in technical ripeness dark purple, 18-22 cm long. The top of the fruit is round. The pulp is medium-dense, greenish-white. Taste good. Fruit mass - from 320 to 340 g. Productivity - 17,3 kg from 1 m2.
F1 Valentina. Fruits ripen on the 90-95th day after full germination. The fruits are cylindrical, purple-black, shiny, smooth. Their length is about 25 cm, the mass is within 200-270 g. The pulp is dense, greenish-white. The variety is resistant to the tobacco mosaic virus. Productivity - up to 10 kg / m2.
Quartet. Fruits ripen on the 107-122nd day after full germination. The fruit is shortened, pear-shaped, has a length of 11,5-14 cm, weight 100-125 g and a diameter of about 6-8 cm, matte, greenish-purple. The pulp is white-green, medium density with a large number of seeds. Taste good. Productivity - 8,2-12,6 kg per 1 m2.
F1 Max. Fruits ripen in 90-100 days from full germination. They have an elongated cylindrical shape, dark purple color. Shiny, smooth fruits have a length of up to 25 cm and a mass of 180 to 250 g. The pulp is dense, greenish-white. Taste is excellent. Productivity - over 10 kg from 1 m2.
F1 Nancy. Fruits ripen on the 75-85th day after full germination. They are elongated in ovoid shape, dark purple, shiny, weighing 60-80 g. The pulp is dense, greenish-white with a pleasant taste. Productivity - 3,5-5 kg from 1 m2.
Purple Haze. The fruits ripen on the 100th day after full germination. They are cylindrical in shape, 15-18 cm long, 4-6 cm in diameter, glossy. Coloring varies from light lilac to lilac. The fruits have a delicate skin and whitish flesh. The mass of one fruit is from 150 to 200 g. Productivity is up to 10 kg from 1 m2.
F1 Purple Wonder. Fruits ripen on the 95-100th day after full germination. They are cylindrical in shape, slightly curved, medium length, smooth, shiny, dark purple. The pulp is greenish-white with a pleasant taste. Fruit mass - from 100 to 350 g. Productivity - up to 5 kg from 1 m2.
Mid-season eggplant varieties and hybrids
Diamond. Fruits ripen on the 110-150th day after full germination. They are cylindrical in shape, dark purple. Their length is from 15 to 20 cm, diameter is 3-6 cm. The pulp is greenish, dense, without bitterness. The mass of the fetus ranges from 100 to 170 g. Productivity - up to 8 kg / m2. The variety is recommended for outdoor cultivation.
Comet. From seedlings to technical ripeness of the fruit takes 118-125 days. The plant is compact, 75-90 cm high. The leaves are dark green, medium in size. Fruits are cylindrical in technical ripeness of dark purple color. The fruit is 20-22 cm long and about 5 cm in diameter. The pulp is white, dense, without bitterness. The mass of the fetus is from 125 to 170 g. It is slightly affected by anthracnosis and late blight. Productivity - up to 6 kg / m2.
Sailor. Fruits ripen on the 105-110th day after full germination. They are oval, short, striped (with lilac and white stripes), glossy. The pulp is white. The fruit mass is about 140 g. Productivity is up to 5 kg per 1 m2.
Swan. Fruits ripen on the 100-130th day after full germination. Light green leaves and a green (without anthocyanin) stem well set off the white color of the flowers and fruits of a cylindrical shape. The length of the fruit is about 18-22 cm, the diameter is about 5-7 cm. The fruits of this variety are distinguished by a very thin skin. The pulp is snow-white and very tender. The fruit mass is from 130 to 330 g. Productivity is 2-3 kg per 1 m2.
F1 Pelican. Fruits ripen on the 115-120th day after full germination. They are cylindrical in shape, about 17 cm long and 4,5 to 5 cm in diameter. In technical ripeness, the fruits of this variety are white, slightly glossy, with dense white flesh. Fruit weight - 90-135 g. Productivity - up to 7 kg per 1 m2.
F1 Ping Pong. Fruits ripen on the 115-120th day after full germination. They are round oval in shape, 5-7 cm long and 4,5 to 7 cm in diameter. In technical ripeness, the fruits are white, slightly glossy, with dense white flesh. Fruit weight - 85-95 g. Productivity - up to 7 kg per 1 m2.
Surprise. Fruits ripen on the 115th day after full germination. They have a cylindrical shape. They are glossy, dark violet in color, about 20 cm long and about 7 cm in diameter. The average mass of the fruit varies from 300 to 400 g. The pulp is greenish-creamy and contains few seeds. Taste is excellent. Productivity - a little more than 4 kg per 1 m2.
Varieties of eggplant for for Siberia
This region is characterized by harsh climatic conditions (prolonged spring and short summer), in which it is quite difficult to grow thermophilic crops in general and eggplant in particular.
That is why varieties for Siberia should be, first of all, early ripening. Since there are not greenhouses in every area, eggplant plants should also be designed for open ground. A real find for vegetable growers was the early ripening Siberian selection with long purple fruits, which are guaranteed to ripen even under extreme farming. White eggplant Easter egg has proven itself well in Siberia. This variety cannot boast of high productivity - it is about 400 g per bush - but the fruits ripen very early. By the way, large-fruited varieties, though pleasing with productivity, but their ripening dates are somewhat late. Nevertheless, some of them “registered” in Siberia: Almaz, Donskoy 14, Spherical, Ilya Muromets.
Growing large-fruited eggplant varieties in Siberia, it must be remembered that each bush can produce no more than two fruits weighing 500-700 g.
Eggplant varieties for greenhouses
If the eggplants "settle" in small greenhouses or under a frame film shelter, a short and early Robin Hood will show a good result, which is characterized by unpretentiousness and high productivity. In unheated film greenhouses, Balagur, Romantic and Vakula can grow.
High yields are shown by Sperm Whale, Pink Flamingo and Torpedo. The cultivars of this group are distinguished by medium height bushes (up to 170 cm).
For heated greenhouses, you can choose strong-growing, productive varieties that will bear fruit in a fairly cool autumn period: Dolphin, Don Quixote, F1 Bard, F1 Goliath, F1 Gorodovoy. The height of the bush can reach 3 m, the weight of the fruit - 1 kg. However, the eggplant of these varieties require the formation of a bush, under-knitting and pinching.
Reference by topic:
Reference by topic: Eggplant (photo) planting and care, varieties and growing seedlings from A to Z
HEAT-LOVING CUCUMBERS - VARIETIES AND CARE
Cucumber has long and firmly taken a place in our beds, although its nutritional value is significantly inferior to other vegetables. We love this culture for its excellent taste, a short growing season (40-60 days) and the ability to grow in different climatic conditions (in greenhouses and greenhouses - generally all year round). Cucumber is a culture of subtropical and tropical origin (India is considered its homeland). It has been cultivated for more than 3000 years and is now ubiquitous: in the Far North, this crop is the main crop in a protected ground; in the temperate zone and to the south, cucumber is grown in open ground, temporary shelters and greenhouses.
GROWING CUCUMBERS IN OPEN GROUND
The most suitable for cultivation of cucumber are light and medium in terms of mechanical composition of sandy loam and loam. The beds with cucumbers should be located on the southern, southwestern or southeastern side of the site.
The best predecessors for cucumber are annual and perennial herbs, early potatoes, onions on turnips, early varieties of cabbage and legumes. But after other pumpkin crops (zucchini, squash, pumpkin) planting cucumbers is not recommended.
To prepare the beds for growing cucumbers proceed in advance. After harvesting the precursor crop, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the depth of the arable layer (20-25 cm), and with the onset of spring (in the second or third decade of April) they dig the soil to a depth of 18-20 cm.
Cucumber is quite responsive to the joint application of organic (manure, peat moss compost) and mineral fertilizers. In autumn, a full dose of organic and half a dose of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to the site where the cucumbers will grow. In spring, the soil is fertilized with nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
For sowing, experts advise using zoned varieties and hybrids, with seeds of the first (germination rate not lower than 90%) or second (germination rate not lower than 70%) classes.
It is necessary to sow cucumber seeds after the average daily air temperature is at around 15 ° C: in the southern regions of Belarus this time usually begins in the first or second decade of May, in the central zone in the second or third decade of May.
Council
To get the crop as long as possible during the season, sow cucumber seeds in several stages with an interval of 7 days.
When planting this crop, it is advisable to adhere to a simple scheme: when sowing seeds - 140 × 10 cm, when planting seedlings - 140 × 15 cm.
The depth of seed placement on light soils or when sowing in dry soil is 3-4 cm, on medium or dense, cold soils - 2-3 cm.
After planting, crops should be temporarily covered with plastic wrap or spanbond. The plastic film is removed from the cucumber beds when mass shoots appear, and spanbond - after the appearance of 2-3 real leaves on plants.
In sheltered ground, cucumbers are best grown on a supporting trellis.
The soil in the greenhouse must be constantly maintained in a loose and weed-free condition. At the base of the stem, the soil should be dry so that the plants do not rot.
The first row-spacing processing is carried out to a depth of 10-12 cm with the designation of the rows, the next - to a depth of 5-10 cm before the rows are closed. For the entire growing season, you need to carry out 3-4 such treatments. At least 2 times per season, you need to weed the plants manually and spud them: the first time - in the phase of 1-2 real leaves, the second time - in the phase of 4-5 leaves.
Water the cucumbers with warm (at least 15 ° C) water.
Cucumbers are fed with complex water-soluble mineral fertilizers - according to the instructions. The first top dressing is given in the phase of the first true leaflets, the second during the budding period, the third during mass flowering of plants.
With the onset of diseases and the mass settlement of pests, continuous processing of crops is carried out. With single amounts of pests, only lesions are treated.
Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse
In order to grow a good crop of greens in greenhouses, the soil in the greenhouse must be fertile, loose, water- and breathable, and have a high absorption capacity.
Add horse peat to the soil annually at the rate of 10-15 kg / m2, neutralizing it with calcareous materials.
The optimal timing for sowing cucumber is April 15-20. Seeding depth - 2-2,5 cm.
It is very important to maintain the correct temperature regime in the greenhouse throughout the entire growing season: before emergence -25-28 ° C, after emergence -18-20 ° C. Relative humidity should be between 70-80%.
Cucumber seedlings are planted on a bed in a greenhouse in the presence of 2-3 leaves and soil temperature around 12-15 degrees. After planting, plants must be watered. Seedlings are planted in a two-line pattern in a checkerboard pattern. And immediately tied with twine to the trellis.
For feeding, water-soluble complex fertilizers are used, including microelements in the chelate form (copper, zinc, iron, boron, iodine, molybdenum, cobalt): “Crystal” brown, “Ekolist Standard”, “Multivit Plus”, housing and communal services for tomato and cucumber, housing and communal services with selenium, etc. - according to the instructions. In total, 5-7 foliar top dressings are carried out during the growing season.
Caring for plants in a greenhouse includes twisting clockwise through one leaf, removing the lower leaves in contact with the soil, and drip irrigation.
DISTRICTED VARIETIES AND HYBRIDES OF THE CUCUMBER OF THE BELARUSIAN SELECTION
Outdoor Cucumbers
Verasen. The variety is mid-season, bee-pollinated, long-braided. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-50 days. Productivity - more than 3 kg / m2. The average mass of marketable fruit is 100 g, length is 9-10 cm. The fruit is suitable for pickling and pickling. It accumulates radionuclides in a smaller amount, is highly resistant to olive blotch, powdery mildew, bacteriosis, and is relatively resistant to peronosporosis.
Zarnitsa. The variety is mid-season, long-braided, bee pollinated. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-48 days. Productivity - more than 3 kg / m2. The green color is intense green. The fruit has a small seed chamber and small seeds. The average mass of marketable fruit is 90-100 g, length - 8-9 cm. Fruits of universal purpose. It is resistant to a complex of diseases: olive blotch, powdery mildew, peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
Sv1'tanak. The variety is mid-season, bee-pollinated, long-braided. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-48 days. Productivity - 3-3,5 kg / m2. Fruits of green color with longitudinal light stripes. The average mass of the fruit of the fruit is 100-110 g, the length is 10-11 cm. The fruits of universal use are distinguished by good pickling qualities. The variety is resistant to a complex of diseases: olive spotting, peronosporosis and powdery mildew.
Hybrid Vyaselka F1. Mid-season, bee-pollinated, long-braided. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-46 days. Productivity - 3,5-5 kg / m2. The fruits have a small seed chamber and small seeds. The green color is dark green. The average mass of marketable fruit is 90-100 g, length is 8-9 cm. The fruits are suitable for pickling and pickling, including gherkins. The variety is resistant to a complex of diseases: olive blotch, powdery mildew, peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
Hybrid Gourmet F1. Early ripening, bee-pollinated, branched. Productivity - 4-6 kg / m2. The average mass of greenery is 80-100 g. The fruits are medium-tuberous, black-spiked for universal purposes. Taste is high. It is resistant to a complex of diseases: cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, peronosporosis, bacteriosis.
Hybrid Vyaselka F1. Medium-ripe, bee-pollinated, long-climbing. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-55 days. Productivity - 3,5-5 kg / m2. The fruits have a small seed chamber and small seeds. The green color is dark green. The average mass of marketable fruit is 90-100 g, length is 8-9 cm. The fruits are suitable for pickling and pickling, including gherkins. The variety is resistant to a complex of diseases: olive blotch, powdery mildew, peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
Hybrid Coral Reef F1. Mid-season, bee-pollinated heterosis hybrid of open ground cucumber. The yield of green fruit is 3,5-4 kg / m2. Fruits weighing 100-110 g, universal purpose. Taste indicators of fruits fresh and canned are high. It has increased resistance to a complex of diseases.
Hybrid Vyaselka F1. Medium-ripe, bee-pollinated, long-climbing. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-55 days. Productivity - 3,5-5 kg / m2. The fruits have a small seed chamber and small seeds. The green color is dark green. The average mass of marketable fruit is 90-100 g, length is 8-9 cm. The fruits are suitable for pickling and pickling, including gherkins. The variety is resistant to a complex of diseases: olive blotch, powdery mildew, peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
Hybrid Janus F1. Mid-season, long-braided, bee-pollinated heterosis hybrid for open ground. The yield of green fruit is 3,5-4 kg / m2. The length of the fetus is 10-12 cm, weight is 110-120 g. Zelentsy is coarse, black-spiked, universal purpose. Taste indicators of fruits fresh and canned are high. It has increased resistance to cladosporiosis and powdery mildew.
Belarusian Gherkin F1. Early ripening, bee-pollinated, heterosis hybrid of the root type cucumber. The yield of greens is 3,5-4 kg / m2, the fruit weight is 80-100 g. It is intended for salting, pickling and fresh consumption. It has increased resistance to a complex of diseases.
Slavic. Mid-season, bee pollinated cucumber variety of open ground. Productivity - 3-3,5 kg / m2. The fruit weighing 110-120 g, coarse-humped, black-thorny. Designed for pickling, pickling and fresh consumption. The variety has increased resistance to a complex of diseases.
Hybrid Kid F1. Mid-season, bee-pollinated heterosis hybrid of open ground cucumber. Productivity - 3-3,5 kg / m2. Zelenets weighing 60-80 g of gherkin type. The taste of fresh and canned fruits is very good. It has increased resistance to a complex of diseases.
Hybrid Color F1. The hybrid is partially parthenocarpic (the parthenocarpy index in open ground is 80-90%), precocious (40-45 days), branched. Productivity - 3,5-4 kg / m2. Zelenets weighing 100-120 g, medium tuberous, black-spiked, universal purpose. It has complex resistance to the main diseases - cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
Varieties of cucumbers for sheltered soil
Hybrid Braginka F1. Partenocarpic type hybrid for film greenhouses, mid-ripening, long-braided. The period from seedlings to the first harvest is 45-48 days. Productivity - 15-20 kg / m2. The average mass of marketable fruit is 90-100 g, length is 10-11 cm, diameter is 3,3-3,5 cm. A salad-marinade hybrid. Highly resistant to olive spotting, medium resistant to peronosporosis and powdery mildew.
Hybrid Tonus F1. Short-fronted partenocarpic hybrid of Belarusian cucumber for growing in open and protected ground. Early ripening - the period from the appearance of seedlings to the beginning of fruiting is 45-48 days. Zelenets has a dark green color, 8-10 cm long, 3-4 cm in diameter. The fruits are used for salads, canning and pickling. Productivity - up to 10 kg / m2. Resistant to a complex of diseases: cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, bacteriosis and peronosporosis.
See also: Growing cucumbers from A to Z - planting and care
HEAT-LOVING TOMATOES - VARIETIES AND CARE
Belarusian vegetable growers for a long time grew tomatoes in sheltered ground in order to protect them from adverse weather conditions and guaranteed to get a high yield. However, today tomatoes are increasingly moving to open beds, as gardeners have become available varieties that are resistant to weather and low temperatures.
Did you know that historians call the tireless traveler Christopher Columbus the “godfather” of tomatoes? Centuries ago, he discovered the world not only a new uncharted continent, but also a strange plant with small bright red fruits, which the local population called "tomato" - a big berry.
The growing season of tomatoes is:
- in early ripening varieties - up to 100 days;
- in medium early varieties - from 100 to 110 days;
- in mid-ripening varieties - from 111 to 115 days;
- in medium-late varieties - from 116 to 120 days;
- in later varieties - more than 120 days.
In order to correctly determine the time of planting seeds for seedlings, it is worth considering both the climatic characteristics of your region and the characteristics of a particular variety. Late varieties in Belarus and central Russia are sown for seedlings after March 7. Sowing the mid-early begin after March 15. Most recently, they begin to engage in “early ripening” - in late March or early April.
Soil for seedlings should be loose and light - it is best to use a mixture of turf with humus and sand. On the eve of sowing seeds, the soil is disinfected (for example, with a potassium permanganate solution) and treated with antifungal preparations. After that, pour into boxes, slightly compact and water. Prepared seeds are sown in grooves with a depth of 0,5-1 cm at a distance of 1,5-2 cm from each other. Top seeds sprinkled with dry soil.
At first, seed boxes must be kept in a bright warm (about 25 ° C) room with air humidity in the range of 80-85%.
If you want the tomato seeds to sprout faster, cover the boxes with the film with crops. After emergence (after about 5 days), the film must be removed.
The seedlings are watered with settled water at room temperature (not lower than 16-17 ° C, preferably 18-20 ° C), as necessary, under the root or sprayed from the spray gun. At this stage, you should try to avoid getting large drops of water on the leaves of plants.
Young tomatoes need additional illumination. In the first 2-3 days after planting, the duration of lighting can be 24 hours a day, then (before the dive) - 16 hours a day.
The grown seedlings dive. The plant rises up with part of an earthen coma, and then carefully placed in a new container. When pickled, the root of each seedling is shortened by a third - to stimulate the formation of a fibrous root system.
Growing strong and hardy tomatoes helps hardening. They begin this procedure after the daytime temperature in the street reaches 10 ° C, and a couple of weeks remain before the seedlings land on a constant place. The outdoor residence time of tomatoes is increased gradually, starting from 10 minutes.
On the eve of "moving" to a permanent place, young plants should have 9-10 leaves, the length of the internodes should be from 5 to 7 cm (depending on the variety), and the stem should not be too thin or too thick.
See also: Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse and open field: planting and care from A to Z
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse
You need to prepare a greenhouse for growing tomatoes in the fall: remove all plant debris and disinfect.
It is best to plant heat-loving tomatoes in high beds, and if possible, they need to be additionally insulated. If only tomatoes will grow in the greenhouse, remove all the nutrient soil from it, pour a layer of sawdust or straw about 10 cm thick, and put the same layer of compost on top. Now backfill the soil so that its layer is about 25 cm.
To increase the fertility of the soil in the protected ground, add humus and peat (half a bucket per square meter) and ash mixed with sand in equal proportions (1 l per square meter of beds).
It is equally important to decide on the time of planting tomatoes. In heated, glazed greenhouses in Belarus and central Russia, seedlings are recommended to be planted on April 30. In unheated greenhouses with additional film shelter - from May 5 to 10. In unheated greenhouses without additional insulation - not earlier than May 20-25. Tomatoes can be planted under film shelters in open ground only at the end of May. In this case, the seedlings should be approximately 50 days old, seedlings should have a strong root system.
By the way
The optimum soil temperature for planting tomatoes in the greenhouse is 10-15 ° C, air temperature is 20-25 ° C.
When growing early ripening low-growing varieties, experts advise to arrange the tomato bushes in a checkerboard pattern: in two rows with a distance between them of about 50 cm and a distance between plants of 40 cm. In this case, it is advisable to form tomat in 2-3 stems. Stacked and determinate types of tomatoes are planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other, and the row spacing is also left at about 50 cm. Tall giants can also be grown in a checkerboard pattern, but in this case the row spacing should be at least 80 cm, and the distance between plants in a row - 50 cm (when forming in 1 stalk) or 75 cm (when forming in 2 stems).
About an hour before planting seedlings, tomato seedlings are well watered to make it easier to extract plants from seedling containers and not damage the delicate root system. If the roots have grown too much, they can be shortened by a few centimeters.
To plant tomatoes, dig holes with a depth of about 15 cm, pour in each a handful of humus or wood ash and 1 tsp. crushed superphosphate. After this, each well is shed with 2 L of pink potassium permanganate solution.
Plant tomato seedlings with an earthen lump vertically, deepening to the first leaves. If the seedlings have grown, they are placed in the holes under a slight slope and sprinkled part of the stem with soil.
After planting, the soil in the hole is slightly compacted and mulched, and plants are sprayed for the prevention of late blight with Bordeaux liquid (based on 100 g per 10 l of water) or copper chloroxide (based on 40 g per 10 l of water).
After planting, the plants are left alone for several days so that they adapt to new conditions.
At the same time, you can install a peg (or other device) near each tomato bush to which the plant will be tied. If you do this later, there is a risk of accidentally damaging the root system.
Pegs or thin plastic tubes are suitable for garter medium-sized varieties of tomatoes. The length of such devices should be greater than the height of the bush by about 30 cm (this is how pegs are buried in the soil). The trunk of the plant is wrapped with garter material and attached to the support.
For the garter of high indeterminate varieties of tomatoes (which in sheltered ground can reach a height of 5-6 m), it is better to use trellises. Long stakes are driven along the bed, on which a strong twine or steel wire is pulled every 40 cm. As the bush grows, its branches and stem are tucked between the stretched twine using the wicker method.
Immediately after tying up the plants form: indeterminate varieties - usually 1 stalk, semi-determinant - most often 2 stems.
Greenhouse tomatoes also need pinching - removing the side shoots that formed in the axils of the leaves. The first time tomato bushes stepson after their height reaches 15-20 cm.
Lateral processes neatly break off or cut off. It is important to remove stepchildren gradually, and not all at once. It is best to carry out this 1 procedure once a week.
During the fruit ripening period, it is not superfluous to remove the lower leaves from the bushes in order to reduce humidity and improve air access.
As for the temperature regime, it largely depends on the level of illumination. In cloudy weather, for example, the air temperature in the greenhouse should be about 20 ° C, on sunny days - about 22 ° C.
Water the tomatoes often, but with a little warm (cooler 15 ° C) water. It is important to ensure that the soil is moist, but not waterlogged.
Another important factor is timely top dressing. Signor tomato is quite demanding on the diet. At the beginning of the growing season, plants have enough nutrients that were introduced into the soil during autumn digging. But the fruiting period coincides with the intensive consumption of nutrients, complex water-soluble fertilizers help fill the deficit.
During flowering, plants need mineral top dressing: 25 g of nitrogen + 15 g of potash + 40 g of phosphate fertilizer + 10 l of water. Pour tomatoes at the rate of 1 l on 1 m2.
During fruiting, tomatoes need organic matter: 2 l of ash + 10 l of hot water + iodine bubble + 15 g of boric acid. Insist 24 hours, dilute with water in the ratio of 1 liters of mixture to 10 liters (bucket) of water. For each tomato bush, 1 liters of fertilizer will be required.
By the way
Although tomato is a plant and self-pollinating, in the greenhouse this process does not always occur in full. To help the plant with pollination, you can gently shake the flower brushes. And to attract insects into the greenhouse, you can hang an open container with honey at the entrance or
GROWING TOMATOES IN OPEN SOIL
Tomatoes will grow well in a sunny area with light nutrient soil, which is protected from drafts and cold winds. It is best to place tomato beds on a small hill to avoid stagnation of moisture.
The best predecessors for tomatoes in the open field are carrots, cucumbers and onions. The best neighbor for tomatoes will be garden strawberries: the yield of tomatoes and fragrant berries will be larger, and the fruits will be larger. But experts do not recommend planting tomatoes after potatoes, eggplant and pepper, because these crops can be affected by the same diseases and pests.
The preparation of the plot for growing tomatoes is started in the fall: they remove all plant debris, dig the bed to a depth of 30 cm, add organic (bird droppings, humus, peat or compost at the rate of 5 kg per 1 m2) or mineral fertilizers (20-25 g of potassium salt + 40-50 g of superphosphate on 1 m2). With the onset of spring, 1 kg of bird droppings, 1,5 kg of wood ash and 25 g of ammonium sulfate and 55 g of ammonium sulfate are added with each subsequent incorporation into the soil. An alternative to organic fertilizers can be a nutritious “cocktail” of 20 g of superphosphate, 15 g of ammonium nitrate and XNUMX g of potassium chloride per square meter of beds.
The formation of beds begin a week before the proposed planting of tomatoes. The width of each bed should be about 100-120 cm, the height should be about 20 cm. The distance between the beds is 70 cm.
Arrange the beds with tomatoes in the direction from north to south - this will help to achieve uniform illumination of plants.
After the threat of spring frost has passed (in Belarus and central Russia this time usually comes in late May - early June), you can plant seedlings in open ground. This is best done in cloudy weather or in the evening.
It is advisable to plant tomato seedlings in two rows. In this case, for low stems and determinant species, the row spacing is about 50 cm, and the interval between
plants are kept within 30-35 cm. For medium-sized tomatoes, the recommended row spacing is 50-60 cm, and the distance between tomatoes is 40-45 cm.
If preference is given to square-nest planting, plants are planted according to the following scheme:
- standard and determinant varieties: 70 × 70 cm, 2-3 plants for one nest;
- early ripening varieties with a spreading bush: 70 × 70 cm, 2 plants in one hole;
- medium and late ripe tomatoes: 70 × 70 cm, 1 bush in one nest or 90 × 90 cm - 2 plants in one nest.
With a tape-nesting planting, it is possible to place the largest number of bushes on the bed: furrows are cut at a distance of 140 cm from each other, bushes are planted on both sides of the furrows, and 2 tomatoes are planted in each hole.
The holes are dug with a depth of 10-15 cm and an hour before planting the seedlings are shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, after which mineral fertilizers mixed with humus in the proportion of 1: 3 are applied.
Tomato seedlings are placed in a hole together with a lump of earth vertically and sprinkled with soil so that the ground level matches the level of leaves. Overgrown seedlings are planted obliquely - as in a greenhouse. Plantings are watered and mulched.
Near each plant, parallel to the stem, stepping back 10 cm, drive in a peg (or other device) for tying tomatoes, deepening it into the soil on 25-30 cm.
Tomato bushes are tied up after 4-5 of real leaves appear on them. Typically, during the growing season, tomatoes need 3-4 garters.
For medium-sized and large-fruited varieties, it is better to use trellises. Between the rows, columns with a height of about 1,2-1,5 m are installed and nails are driven in every 25 cm, to which horizontal rods are attached using twine or wire. After the plants begin to reach up, their hands are tied to the slats with a soft twine or cord. Repeat this procedure as the bushes grow - every 15-20 cm.
To protect plants from possible frosts, immediately after planting on the garden, it is advisable to cover them with a transparent film with holes or spanbond. They remove the covering material after the threat of frost has passed - in Belarus and central Russia this time begins on June 5-10.
Tomatoes love moisture. Therefore, watering should be plentiful, 2-3 once a week.
Tomatoes in the open field also need formation and pinching. You can leave one main stalk and regularly remove stepchildren so that they do not pull nutrients from the fruit. And you can leave the very first stepson on the stalk, resulting in a bush consisting of two stems.
It is important
Do not tear out the stepsons, but carefully break them out, clasping them with the index and thumb, carefully pull to the side and break them off. If stepchildren are too large, cut them with a sharp knife. In this case, first of all, get rid of the stepsons that grow under the hands.
At the end of summer, you can pinch the tops of all shoots with fruits, as well as remove excess flower brushes where the fruits did not form.
ZONED AND PERSPECTIVE TOMATO VARIETIES
For growing in a greenhouse
Start. This variety combines all the best agrotechnical and taste. Plants are tall (can reach 180 cm), indeterminate. In a greenhouse, tall bushes can be tied immediately to a stable frame, without worrying about installing trellises. At all stages of the growing season, tomatoes need to be stepsoned, forming a bush of 2-3 stems. The care of tomatoes of this variety is standard: watering, loosening, weeding, top dressing. About 90 days elapse from sowing seeds to seedlings to ripening. Ripe tomatoes are fleshy, dense and sweet, painted bright red. The peel of vegetables is thin, but strong, resistant to cracking. The shape of the tomatoes is oval, the weight does not exceed 50 g. The fruits are used in cooking for preparing pickles, various dishes and canning. The advantages of the variety include high productivity - more than 15 kg / m2.
Early 83. The plant is a determinant bush 50-60 cm high. Tomatoes are highly resistant to late blight and a number of other diseases, as well as a short ripening period of fruits - only 95 days. Small (80-95 g) red tomatoes are well suited for canning, pickling, cooking fresh dishes, juices and mashed potatoes. The peel of the fruit is thin and delicate, the flesh is dense and very sweet. The advantages of this variety include high productivity - about 8 kg / m2.
White filling. Tomatoes of this variety resemble bulk apples, only they are painted in red, traditional for tomatoes. These are determinate low-growing bushes (45-50 cm high), which are characterized by weak branching and compact green mass. Plants do not need garter and pinching.
Productivity - more than 8 kg / m2. Tomatoes of this variety are characterized by a particularly juicy, tender flesh. The average weight of the fruit varies from 80 to 140 g, the shape of the tomatoes is round, the color at the stage of technical ripeness is bright red. In a protected ground (greenhouse or greenhouse), the fruits ripen on average for 95 days.
Baby F1. The plant is superdeterminant resistant to most known diseases typical of tomatoes. It has increased heat lovingness, therefore, in Belarus it is advisable to cultivate it only in sheltered soil. No garter required. Low-growing (up to 50 cm) plants have high productivity - up to 10 kg / m2. Fruits are red, flat) are used fresh, for whole-fruited salting.
Verlioka F1. It is a tall hybrid of tomato with an exceptional yield that exceeds 18 kg / m2. Bushes grow from 1,5 to 2 m and are great for growing in sheltered ground. Semi-determinant plants must be formed by removing stepsons and pinching the top of the main stem. Tomatoes Verlioka F1 are particularly in need of watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Fruits are rounded, bright red, flesh is fleshy and sweet. The mass of one tomato is about 100 g. From sowing the seed to the ripening of vegetables it takes no more than 95 days. Ripe tomatoes for universal use. Verlioka F1 can grow and bear fruit even in low light conditions.
Red Arrow. The main advantage of this variety is its record yield: from 1 m2 you can collect up to 30 kg of tasty and high-quality fruits. Growing tomatoes of this variety in a protected ground, you can be sure that the semi-determinant medium-sized (up to 100 cm) plants will bear fruit until late autumn. Fruits of red color, juicy and fragrant, with a thin skin that does not crack as they ripen. The shape of the tomatoes is oval-round, the mass of one fruit can reach 130 g. In sheltered soil, the crop can be obtained 95 days after sowing seeds for seedlings. Fruits of universal purpose.
Varieties of tomatoes for outdoor cultivation
Profitable. Plants of this variety are resistant to low atmospheric temperatures and can successfully grow in shaded areas. Bushes undersized (up to 40 cm) are determinant. Plants are not too demanding to care for, pinching and pinching bushes is not necessary. The period of active fruiting begins in 70-80 days after transplanting. The fruits have a flat-circular shape and weight from 70 to 100 g. Taste good. The skin of tomatoes is thin and delicate.
Rouge. The variety of Belarusian selection is characterized by high productivity and excellent taste of fruits. Medium-sized bushes of the Ruzha variety are strongly leafy and require pinching. Productivity is 10-12 kg / m2. Round-shaped tomatoes are painted in bright red color. Their surface is glossy, smooth. The fruit mass is from 70 to 90 g. The taste of vegetables is excellent: the pulp is sweet, juicy, dense.
Moskvich. The variety is represented by low-growing (up to 40 cm) compact plants resistant to late blight and low atmospheric temperatures. Productivity - not less than 5 kg / m2. Tomatoes are small-fruited (up to 50 g), round or flat-round, red. It takes 95-100 days to mature. The fruits are sweet and delicious. Salting qualities are good.
Excellent 176. The name of the variety is fully consistent with its characteristics. The fruit pulp is dense, juicy and sweet, has a pronounced fresh aroma. The peel of vegetables is tender, but dense, does not crack as the fruits ripen. The fruit mass is from 80 to 100 g. Medium-sized plants of this variety are determinant. Their height does not exceed 60 cm. On each fruiting brush 3-4 ovaries are formed, which are sung in 100-110 days. Productivity reaches 10 kg / m2.
Peramoga. The main advantage of this variety of Belarusian breeding is its high yield - at least 15 kg / m2. From each bush of this variety you can collect up to 5 kg of delicious tomatoes. The ripening period of vegetables is short - up to 98 days. Plants are resistant to adverse weather conditions and shade. Bushes undersized (40-50 cm) are determinant. Fruits are flat-round, weighing from 80 to 140 g. Taste is high.
Morning. This tomato variety has a low but stable yield (up to 8 kg / m2), which does not depend on weather conditions. Plants are compact, determinant, with a lush green mass. In the process of growing them, it is necessary to stepchild them periodically, removing small shoots. Round-shaped red tomatoes with dense and juicy pulp, weighing about 85 g. The fruits ripen in open ground for 110-115 days. Appointment of vegetables is salad, but vegetables are also successfully used for canning.
Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes - planting and leaving from A to Z
HEAT-LIKE PEPPER - VARIETIES AND CARE
The homeland of sweet pepper (which we also used to call Bulgarian) is considered Central America. The growing season of this crop is from 120 to 170 days (depending on the variety), therefore, in Belarus and Russia this perennial plant is grown as an annual crop in the seedling method - both in open and in protected ground.
The best predecessors for sweet pepper are onions, cabbage, cucumbers and other pumpkin crops, as well as carrots. But experts do not advise planting bell pepper after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant and physalis, because these crops are affected by the same diseases and pests.
Peppers will grow and bear fruit best on light, loose and nutritious soils with good aeration. This "southern beauty" will like the open, sunny, protected from drafts and cold winds plot on the southern slope. If the soil on the bed is too dense, add straw, peat, sawdust or humus to it. Poor soils are fertilized with organic and mineral (preferably potash and phosphorus) fertilizers. Sour soils lime.
A bed for this crop is prepared in the fall: all plant residues are removed and 5 kg of organic and 50 g of potash and phosphorus fertilizers per square meter are brought under digging. In the spring, after the snow melts, ammonium nitrate is added to the soil - 40 g per square meter. A week before transplanting, the soil in the area or in the greenhouse is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate: 1 tbsp. l for 10 liters of water.
In Belarus and in the middle zone of Russia, pepper seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - mid-June, in a film-free unheated greenhouse - in early April, in tunnel shelters - in late May.
In open ground seedlings of sweet pepper are planted at the age of 55-60 days in double rows - ribbons. At the same time, the distance between the ribbons is about 60 cm, between the rows - 30 cm, between the bushes - 20 cm.
Seedlings of sweet pepper are planted in the wells to the same depth at which seedlings grew before. The main thing is not to expose the roots and not to fall asleep the root neck of the plants. The size of the holes should be 30 × 50 cm. Before planting, water is poured into them, allowed to soak - and only then pepper is planted. The soil is carefully compacted, watered again and mulched with peat.
In the greenhouse, pepper is planted on beds with a width of about 1 m with a row spacing of about 50 cm. The distance between the plants themselves depends on the variety: hybrids and strong-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 35 cm from each other, medium-sized varieties are planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other, low-growing, early-growing varieties - every 15 cm. In some cases, it is advisable to plant sweet pepper in a checkerboard pattern - according to the 30 × 30 cm pattern.
Growing sweet peppers in open ground. RECOMMENDATIONS BY SPECIALISTS
To get healthy and strong seedlings, you need to buy seeds of sweet pepper (as well as other vegetable crops) in specialized stores. Do not sow pepper in heavy soil. This culture will like a mixture of garden soil and special soil for seedlings purchased in a specialized store or garden center. Before sowing seeds, the soil is poured into suitable containers for seedlings and moistened, because when watering after planting, the seeds can sink too deep into the soil - and seedlings will appear much later.
Do not chase the amount of seedlings and thicken the crops, because in crowded places the seedlings will stretch and suffer from the “black leg”.
Beginner vegetable growers often make the same mistake: they put containers with pepper seedlings directly on the heating battery. This can not be done, because the soil in the containers will quickly dry out - and young seedlings can die. Since peppers are very fond of heat, you need to place crops near the battery and at first keep them under plastic wrap.
Containers and containers without drainage holes are not suitable for growing sweet pepper seedlings, since stagnation of moisture can lead to the death of both seeds and young plants.
Do not tighten with a picking of sweet pepper. This culture (like most other vegetables) is dived after the appearance of 1-2 true leaves.
Before planting seedlings of sweet pepper on the bed, it must be hardened. To do this correctly, 10 days before the "relocation" the plants are taken out for a couple of hours on the balcony or veranda. If this is not possible, you can simply open the windows in the room - the main thing is that there are no drafts. Seedling hardening time is gradually increased by almost the whole day, but young seedlings should spend the night in their usual conditions - at room temperature.
Sweet pepper is a real “water loaf”. He needs frequent watering with subsequent loosening of the soil. However, everything is good in moderation: a capricious "foreigner" pepper can harm both a moisture deficit and its excess. Too plentiful and frequent watering can disrupt air access to the root system, plant leaves will begin to acquire a pale green color, and the bushes themselves will gradually wither away. Moisture deficiency inhibits plant growth, can lead to dropping flowers and ovaries, and also cause the formation of small fruits. Properly water the bell pepper 1-2 times a week, focusing on weather conditions and phases of plant development. In addition, pepper can only be watered with warm (about 24 ° C) water.
Let us not forget that sweet pepper is a very thermophilic culture. In order for the plants to form fruits, the air temperature should not fall below 20 ° C. If at night the air temperature is below 15 degrees, plants need to be covered with a film or spanbond.
Sweet pepper likes to grow on fertile soils (this crop especially loves light loams and chernozems) that are well supplied with nutrients. On salt and heavy loamy peppers, pepper grows and bears poor fruit.
As for top dressing, pepper needs both organic and mineral fertilizers. When transplanting seedlings to a permanent place in the open ground, 1 tbsp. l superphosphate mixed with humus or just ground. During the period of budding, flowering and fruiting, plants are fed every 2 weeks with complex water-soluble fertilizers (Agrolux, Aquarin, Mortar, etc. are suitable for this purpose) - according to the instructions. Moreover, it is most effective to alternate "chemistry" with organic matter. In the second half of summer and autumn, the “menu” of pepper can be varied with “Kalyfosom” (according to instructions).
To protect the sweet pepper bushes from the first autumn frosts, you can build tents from wooden blocks, cardboard, burlap, roofing felt and other materials. Such shelters are installed over the beds in the evening, and in the morning they are removed. In case of prolonged cooling, temporary film shelters or spanbond are used.
Growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse. TIPS OF EXPERIENCED TUBES
If sweet pepper grows in a greenhouse, it needs to be provided with a suitable temperature regime, good lighting and an optimal amount of moisture. Before the formation begins, the bushes are watered 1 time per week, in the future - at least 1 time in 5 days. The soil under the plants should always remain moist. By the way, mulching of landings helps to achieve this. In addition, in the greenhouse, the soil remains wet longer than in open beds.
When growing in a greenhouse, sweet pepper bushes need to be formed. Immediately after planting, the seedlings pinch the crown of the main stem, so that the plant gives lateral shoots. This procedure is not necessary, as some varieties of plants begin to branch independently.
But pinching is a mandatory procedure. On each bush of pepper leave no more than 5 shoots, on which the fruits will form. The remaining stepsons must be removed. If you do not do this, the bush will form a lot of greenery to the detriment of the fruit. This procedure is especially important for the lower stepsons, when the weather is hot and humid. In hot, dry summers, plants, on the contrary, do not stepchild because the green leaf mass serves as protection against the evaporation of moisture from the soil.
You can remove the central flower of pepper, which grows from the first branch. Many vegetable growers are sure that in this case the yield will be higher.
Throughout the growing season, pepper needs top dressing. During the flowering period, you can make fertilizer yourself: put in a barrel of about 100 l 5 kg of nettle, woodlice, dandelion and plantain, add 10l of rotted cow manure and 2 glasses of wood ash, pour water, mix well and leave for 7 days. Pour bushes of pepper at the rate of 1 l of home fertilizer on the 1 plant. When the pepper forms fruits, you can prepare another top dressing: put Yul of rotted cow manure and 5 kg of bird droppings in the same barrel, add water and insist 7 days. For every square meter of a bed of pepper you will need 5 l of such nutritious “cocktail”. In total, during the season, pepper should be fed at least 5 times with an interval of 2 weeks.
Pepper grows well on loose soils, but there is a danger here: if you loosen the soil too deep, you can damage the root system, which does not go deep into the ground. Therefore, do not "dig" into the soil more than 5 cm.
GROWING SWEET PEPPERS. HUMAN RESOURCE MEMORY
Watering pepper
- regular, as the soil dries;
- frequent, but slightly lukewarm water;
- The best result is drip irrigation.
- Soil cultivation and mulching:
- loosen the soil under the plants no deeper than 5 cm;
- peeling or sawdust is best for mulching sweet pepper.
Pepper nutrition:
- the first top dressing is nitrogen (nitrogen-containing fertilizers or liquid manure in a ratio of 12: 1);
- do not exceed the fertilizer application rate (an excess of nitrogen, for example, will negatively affect the fruiting of the crop);
- before starting budding, add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers;
- at the beginning of fruiting, feed the plants with superphosphate and wood ash;
- to make liquid top dressing based on organic fertilizers.
VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS OF SWEET PEPPER FOR BELARUS AND THE MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA
Early and mid-season varieties for open ground
Big Mom. Plants of this variety grow well and bear fruit both in open and in protected ground. The semi-spreading bush reaches a height of 1 m. The mass of orange fruits is about 200 g, the wall thickness is up to 13 mm. The growing season is 120 days. Universal fruits: used both fresh and for preservation.
Bogatyr. Mid-season grade. From the appearance of seedlings to the technical ripeness of the fruit, no more than 120 days pass. On tall (up to 60 cm) and sprawling bush, fairly large (up to 180 g) red fruits ripen. Productivity - up to 7 kg from 1 m2 the soil. Fruits accumulate in the pulp a large amount of ascorbic acid, rutin, useful trace elements. Taste is rated very highly. The fruits are used fresh, used to prepare hot dishes, used for preservation, and frozen. The fruits of this variety are resistant to most diseases and tolerate transportation well.
Swallow. Early ripening grade for the open and protected soil. The fruits ripen together. The average fruit mass is 70 g. High productivity, excellent taste, versatility of use and resistance to diseases make it possible to recommend this variety for growing in a summer cottage.
Merchant. An early ripe variety intended for open ground and greenhouses. Ripening, the fruits turn light green, biologically ripe peppers turn red. The fruit mass reaches 130 g. Taste qualities are excellent. On-value is universal. Peppers of this variety have a characteristic aroma, rich in vitamin C. Stable yield - up to 2,5 kg / m2.
Belozerka. Pepper Belozerka is one of the most popular varieties. Fruits abundantly in open ground. Fruits ripen in 112 days. The height of the bushes reaches 70 cm. The fruits are slightly ribbed, with a sharp peak, are painted in colors from light cream to red. The thickness of the pulp is 7,5 mm, the average weight of one pepper is 130 g. Universal fruits. Rip together. Productivity reaches 8 kg / m2. Plants are resistant to diseases, tolerate transportation well.
Big Dad. Compact plants can "settle" in the open ground and under temporary shelter. 90 days after transplanting seedlings, you can collect thick-walled (8 mm) delicious fruits weighing up to 150 g. Biologically ripe fruits are red brown. Productivity - from b to 8 kg of fruits of high commercial quality from 1 m2.
California miracle. Very productive mid-early variety. Fruits weighing up to 150 g can be used fresh, suitable for preservation. Wall thickness - up to 8 mm. In technical ripeness, peppers are dark green, ripening, blush. California Miracle can be grown under temporary shelter and in open beds. The yield of this variety is up to 3 kg / m2.
Gogoshary. One of the best mid-season varieties with high taste and marketability of the fruit. It can be grown in open and protected ground. Plants are resistant to many diseases. Rounded fruits weighing from 50 to 75 g are initially dark green in color, redden to full ripeness. Productivity - up to 5 kg / m2.
Gladiator. Plants of this variety can be grown under temporary shelter and in open beds. Yellow fruits with delicate sweet flesh have a delicate pepper aroma. The wall thickness is 5-6 mm, the weight of one fruit is up to 250 g. From crops to removable ripeness 100-115 days pass. Productivity - 4-5 kg / m2.
Varieties of pepper for greenhouses
Cow's ear. A variety of medium early ripening. The fruits are thick-walled (6-8 mm), elongated-conical, smooth, weighing up to 200 g. Biologically ripe fruits are rich red, juicy and sweet. Long stored. Transport well over long distances. From each bush you can collect up to 3 kg of fruit.
Cockatoo. On each tall (up to 1,5 m) bush, up to 3 kg of large (about 30 cm long and up to 500 g) fruits ripen. The pulp is thick, juicy and sweet. The purpose of the fruit is universal. It is important that the area with peppers of this variety is constantly lit by the sun. The advantages of the variety also include resistance to many diseases.
Aivengo. It has high commercial and taste qualities, genetic immunity to many diseases and low temperatures. It can grow under temporary shelter and in open beds. Bushes up to 70 cm high are compact. Cream-colored fruits, when ripe, turn red. The mass of one fruit is up to 140 g. High productivity (7 kg / m2) is achieved only in the greenhouse.
Hercules The variety is characterized by high and stable yield, resistance to many diseases. The fruits are dark green, ripening, blush. The fruit mass can reach 160 g. The average yield is 3 kg / m2.
Popular Hybrid Peppers
Madonna F1, Disease-resistant, high-yielding and drought-resistant hybrid. Fruits with thick walls reach a mass of 180-200 g, light green, turn red over time.
Maria F1. Large-fruited, mid-season, high-yielding hybrid. Fruits are rounded, slightly flattened, weighing up to 120 g.
Othello F1. Early ripe hybrid. The fruits of the original purple color in technical ripeness and brown in biological. The mass of one fruit is about 100 g. Plants are valued for excellent yield, friendly ripening of fruits and independent regulation of branching.
Maxim F1. Mid-season hybrid. Oblong fruits reach a mass of 70-80 g, have an original purple color in technical ripeness and cherry red in the ripening phase. It is appreciated for good fruit setting, stable yield and resistance to verticillous wilting.
See also: Pepper for beginners - what and where to grow
HEAT LOVING Raspberries - VARIETIES AND CARE
Raspberries have always been considered a special berry. For its unique taste and useful properties, it was loved by the ancient Greeks and Romans, revered by Slavic tribes. Today, raspberries can rightfully be called one of the leading berry crops, the advantages of which, in addition to excellent taste and useful properties, include the speed and ease of reproduction, the early entry into fruiting, and high and stable productivity. In addition, the plant is a good honey plant and very decorative.
Repair raspberries are not much different from ordinary raspberries. In the spring of each year, raspberries of repairing varieties grow new shoots on which berries are formed.
By the beginning of winter, the upper part of the shoot bearing fruit during the growing season dries out, on the remaining part the next year fruit branches form (as in ordinary varieties). The extended fruiting period allows you to get the berry from the bushes throughout the season. And this is not the only advantage of repair raspberries: it is more resistant to diseases and pests, it is much easier to care for it, almost all repair varieties are large-fruited. However, if you neglect the basic rules of care, then this property may be lost and the bush will bear fruit as usual - once a season.
With insufficient care, obtaining a double crop is possible, but the berries of the “second wave” will be small and dry, since all the forces of the plant and nutrients will be directed to the maturation of the first crop. Varieties of remont raspberries need pruning, timely top dressing and watering - it is precisely to these processes that the seedlings of the crop are especially demanding.
Raspberries can grow in various climatic zones. Thanks to this, it is cultivated today in 37 countries of the world.
This culture is the most demanding of lighting and does not tolerate prolonged shading, therefore well-lit, even areas are allocated for fruiting plantations. In addition, raspberries are demanding on soil moisture, but cannot tolerate waterlogging, especially on heavy, poorly heated soils with a similar level of groundwater.
For the cultivation of raspberries (both summer ripening and maintenance), soddy-podzolic soils of light and medium texture, water and breathable, are suitable. Do not plant raspberries on podzolic, sandy, and very boggy soils.
Experts advise to cultivate raspberries in special cultivation, which helps to clean the site of weeds, pests and pathogens, as well as create the optimal nutritional regime for plants. From such cultural revolutions it is necessary to exclude crops that have a disease in common with raspberries and the same pests (strawberries, tomatoes, potatoes). The best result is given by the 12-field culture circulation scheme with the alternation of the following crops: 1st year - vegetable crops (except for nightshade crops); 2nd — green manure or oatmeal mixture; 3rd — black steam + landing in autumn; 4th — raspberry novosadka; 5th - raspberries entering fruiting; 6-12th - raspberry fruiting.
Return the raspberries to their original place no earlier than in 5 years.
For planting use plants at the age of one year. Seedlings should not be dried, well developed, without visible signs of disease damage and damage to the shoots and roots. The seedling must have a root length of at least 15 cm, at least 3 of the main roots, 1 main shoot, the thickness of the stem at the root neck of at least 0,8 cm and the height of the aerial part of at least 40 cm.
The best time for planting raspberries is autumn (late September - early October). But spring landing is also possible.
Before planting seedlings, you need to dig holes of size 40x40x40 cm at a distance of 70 cm from each other. In this case, the row spacing should not be more than 1,5 m.
Saplings of repairing raspberries are lowered into a hole and covered with fertile soil so that the root neck is exactly flush with the surface of the site. On sandy soils, a neck immersion of 4 cm into the soil is permissible. After planting, the aboveground part of the seedling is shortened to 20 cm, the seedling is watered, and when water is absorbed, a piece of land around the bush is mulched. The rate of water consumption is 5 liters per 1 plant. If necessary, re-water.
During autumn planting with the onset of spring (after drying of the top soil layer), the first cultivation is carried out to a depth of 10-12 cm. This procedure will help to maintain moisture in the soil and destroy wintering pests. Throughout the growing season, at least three such treatments must be carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm.
Raspberries need regular (once a week) and plentiful (soil should be soaked 30 cm) watering with warm water. However, during dry periods, the soil in the raspberry should be moistened more often - it is important that it is slightly moist all the time. Most of all, plants need life-giving moisture before flowering and during the period of growth and ripening of fruits. It is important to prevent stagnation of water, which can lead to even greater damage than a moisture deficit.
From the third year after planting, you need to begin to form a fruit band. Its optimal parameters: stem height - 1,2-1,5 m, the width of the fruit wall at the base is 0,3-0,4 m.
For repairing raspberry varieties, spring (before the start of the growing season) or autumn (after the onset of stable frost) pruning of the aerial part of the plant to the soil level is carried out, at a stalk height of 20-30 cm, manual shoots are normalized, leaving 12 pieces per 1 meter plantings.
CUTTING RASPBERRY RASPBERRY
After wintering, frostbite, dry patches or cracks may appear on those raspberry bushes whose shoots were not trimmed to the root. In this case, sanitary pruning is performed with the removal of the affected shoots to the first healthy kidney. They do this during the period of kidney swelling, because at this time it is easy to determine which kidneys are healthy and which are damaged.
When growing varieties of remont raspberries that produce many root shoots, they should be removed regularly, leaving no more than 1-2 stems per 10 m15 of land. Moreover, half of them should be annual substitute shoots, and the second part - biennial fruiting.
Experts also recommend that in the fall, after fruiting is completed, cut all the stems of the repairing raspberries to the root, as new shoots will grow in the spring of next year, which will grow, ripen, bloom and give a good harvest during the growing season. Autumn pruning under the root is also useful because pathogens and pests will have nowhere to wait for winter, which means that new shoots will grow healthy.
Raspberry Feeding
Nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizers (urea, ammonium nitrate) are best applied in early spring (immediately after the snow melts, along the “ice crust”) before loosening the soil. If necessary, you can carry out nitrogen dressing with 0,5% urea solution at the beginning of the formation of the ovary.
Phosphorus. Phosphoric fertilizers (simple and double superphosphates) are recommended to be applied together with potash fertilizers in the second half of the growing season: in the summer after harvesting or in the autumn when digging a plot. Fertilizers are deeply embedded in the soil.
If the soil was well fertilized when planting raspberries, only nitrogen fertilizers can be applied every year, potash once every three years, but phosphorus can be dispensed with for 5 years.
Potassium. Raspberries are very sensitive to potash fertilizers (potassium chloride, potassium sulfate). It is best to apply them in the fall or summer - immediately after harvesting.
Deposit on 1 m2 raspberries 0,3-0,4 kg ash completely replaces mineral potash fertilizers.
Organic fertilizers. Raspberries are very responsive to top dressing with re-manure - in spring (at the beginning of the growing season) it is applied in the form of mulch with a layer of 5-6 cm, uniformly covering the soil around the plants.
In summer cottages and household plots in one place, experts recommend raspberry raspberries to grow no more than 10-15 years. As soon as the yields are smaller and the berries are smaller, the bush is dug up, divided into parts, sliced sections are treated with crushed charcoal, and then parts of the bush are planted in a new place. Sometimes raspberries are transplanted due to the fact that they initially chose the wrong place for it.
The transplant is performed at the same time and in the same order as the initial landing.
Breeding of raspberry raspberries with root extracts
Most of the repairing raspberry varieties almost do not form root shoots, but there are also those in which offspring appear. The greatest number of root shoots is formed in four-five-year-old bushes - from 2-3 to 10-15 per 1 m2 area. When the shoot reaches a height of 5-10 cm, they dig it out, transplant it on a new bed and water it, mulch the soil around it, and plants shade from the sun and regularly water it. In autumn, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place.
BREEDING REMETTANT RASPBERRY BY ROOT
During the autumn loosening of the soil, one can dig up a raspberry root with a diameter of at least 2 cm, divide it into pieces of 8-12 cm length, plant them solid next to the furrow with a depth of 6-8 cm, fill it with soil and mulch. Throughout the next season, the soil needs to be watered and loosened, weeds removed. Young plants need to be fed and processed from pests and diseases. Next fall, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Breeding of raspberry raspberries with green pigs
Cuttings of remontant raspberries are harvested in late spring from annual shoots with a height of no more than 3-4 cm, some of which are underground (the stem should have a rosette of leaves). Cuttings are cut at a depth of 5-6 cm and taken out with a lump of earth. Slices are treated with crushed coal, and the cuttings are immediately planted on a bed in a greenhouse according to the 5 × 10 cm pattern to the same depth at which they grew and watered. Further care includes watering, protection against overheating and hardening (which consists in regular ventilation). Subsequently, the cuttings are transplanted into the open ground to a permanent place.
Varieties of raspberries. HOW NOT TO ERROR IN THE CHOICE
The soil and climatic conditions of Belarus are favorable for the cultivation of most berry crops. As for raspberries, for planting it is necessary to use zoned varieties included in the State Register of varieties and trees and shrubs of the Republic of Belarus. They are reliable, because they have passed many years of testing in various climatic conditions.
According to the results of long-term observations by maturity, groups of varieties are conditionally identified:
- early (ripening begins in the second half of July) - Apricot, Eurasia, Polesie, Popiel;
- medium early (the beginning of ripening occurs at the beginning of August) - Bryansk divo, Hercules;
- medium (ripening begins in August) - Indian summer, Indian summer 2, Diamond, Firebird, Golden domes, Golden autumn, Orange miracle, Penguin, Ruby necklace, Elegant, Polka;
- medium-late (the beginning of ripening occurs at the end of August) - Heritage, Polana;
- late (the beginning of ripening occurs at the beginning of September) - Brusvyana, Zhuravlik, Pokusa, Zeva Herbsternte.
Indian summer. The first Russian repairing raspberry variety. The bush is sprawling, tall. The berries are medium (3,3 g), truncated conic, light raspberry, sweet and sour. A variety of medium ripening. This variety has a yield of about 0,7 kg / m2, in the conditions of the Republic of Belarus it realizes its potential by 80%.
The largest fruits are noted in the varieties Bryansk divo and Heritage (more than 5 g).
Bryansk marvel. Variety of Russian selection. The bush is medium-sized. Bee-forming ability is average. Shoots are medium prickly. Fruits are large (up to 7 g), elongated-cylindrical, ruby color.
A variety of medium early ripening, productivity - up to 1,8 kg / m2. In Belarus, the productivity potential is realized at 95%.
Hercules The bush is medium-sized, slightly spreading. The shoots are strong, straight, prickly. The berries are large (4-5 g), truncated conical shape, dense, ruby color, sweet and sour. A variety of medium early ripening period, yield - 1,2 kg / m2, before the onset of autumn frosts, 95% of the crop has time to ripen.
Ruby necklace. The bush is medium-sized. The shoot-forming ability is average. Shoots are medium prickly. Fruits are large (up to 5 g), elongated-cylindrical, ruby color. The variety is mid-season, yield - up to 1,3 kg / m2. In Belarus, the productivity potential is realized by 90%.
Heritage. The variety is bred in the USA. The bush is medium-sized, semi-spreading. The shoot-forming ability is average. Spiky shoots. Fruits are large (up to 5,2 g), truncated-conical, light red, dense. Productivity can reach 1,6 kg / m2. A variety of medium-late ripening period, yield potential before the onset of autumn frosts is realized at 70%.
Zeva Herbsternte. Variety bred in Switzerland. The bush is medium-sized, compact, shoot formation is average. Strongly spiked shoots. The berries are large (up to 4,8 g), round-conical, glossy dark red, transportable. Variety of late ripening. The potential yield reaches 1,1 kg / m2, in Belarus it manages to ripen about 50% of the crop before freezing.
Yellow raspberry
Yellow raspberries are unpretentious, it is more resistant to disease and less demanding on the composition of the soil than the usual red. The berries of the yellow fruit varieties are sweeter, since they contain more sugars and less acid, do not cause allergies. Modern varieties of yellow raspberry of a repairing type are capable of producing 2-4 kg of berries from a bush. The most popular varieties of raspberries with yellow berries are Apricot, Golden Domes, Poranna rosa.
Apricot The bush is undersized, slightly spreading. The shoot formation ability is low. Annual shoots are green with a slight waxy coating. Shoots almost without thorns. The berries are medium (up to 2,5 g) stupidly. Coloring of fruits is golden-apricot.
Golden domes. The bush is medium-sized, sprawling. The shoot-forming ability is average. Shoots are medium prickly. The berries are large (up to 3,5 g) rounded. The color of the fruit is golden yellow.
See also: Repaired raspberry (photo) planting and leaving from A to Z
CHERRY IN BELARUS AND THE MIDDLE STRIP OF RUSSIA
Both children and adults love to enjoy sweet ripe cherries. For a long time, this berry could only be purchased on the market in the summer, but in recent years, cherries grow well in orchards, even in our harsh climate.
Plant this crop in the spring. For planting, use annual or biennial seedlings. As a rule, they are purchased in the fall and dug up in the garden before planting - under the snowy "fur coat" seedlings are well stored until spring.
In the garden, seedlings are located at a distance of approximately 4 m from each other. Many beginner gardeners make the mistake of acquiring 1 cherry seedlings. Since almost all varieties of this culture are self-fertile, you need to find a place for at least two plants of different varieties. By the way, cherries and cherries will not be able to pollinate each other.
All cherries can be divided into weak-growing (height from 2 to 4 m), medium-growing (height from 4 to 5,5 m) and strong-growing (height from 6 to 8 m).
As for the ripening period, the earliest harvest in our climate zone can be obtained by the end of June, mid-ripening varieties ripen in the second decade of July, and late-ripening crops in August. To stretch the fruiting period and always have fresh berries on the table, plant several plants in your garden - of different ripening periods.
The root system of cherries is quite tender and often suffers from damage, so experts advise you to buy seedlings with well-developed and healthy roots, and also not to store plants, and immediately plant them in a suitable place in the garden.
Planting cherries is easy. First of all, you need to dig a planting pit with a diameter of about 80 cm and a depth of about 60 cm. The soil extracted from the pit is not suitable for planting, but the upper fertile soil layer is mixed with 15 kg of compost or rotted manure, 300 g of wood ash is added and carefully mix all the components.
Potash and phosphoric fertilizers are poured into the bottom of the landing pit (according to the instructions), and then they are filled with prepared soil mixture and well watered with water. After this, the pit is left for a month so that the soil settles, and after the specified time, they begin to plant cherry seedlings. Young trees are immediately tied to a support and well watered with water.
Beginning summer residents do not even consider planting cherries on their site, because they fear that they will not be able to cope with this heat-loving culture. In fact, caring for cherries is no more difficult than, for example, caring for an apple tree. Young plants need regular watering, loosening the soil in the root zone and protection from diseases and pests.
In the first 3 years, cherries are fed with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the future its “menu” will practically not differ from the nutrition of other fruit crops.
Cherry branches weakly, but at the same time forms rather long branches. To get a compact crown, you will have to prune young trees annually. Adult plants are pruned less often and not so intensively, mainly thinning the crown from diseased and dried branches.
Not everyone knows that cherries live and bear fruit longer than cherries. This crop usually gives the first crop in the 5 year of life, and after another 5 years the tree will come into full force and will bear fruit for another 20 years. By the way, if the cherries do not freeze in winter, it will produce crops every year.
But in order to achieve this, one must not be mistaken with the choice of sweet cherry variety. Southern varieties are likely to die in the first winter, and even in the summer they will lack heat and light. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and give preference to varieties zoned for each specific region.
Basting. Early ripe self-fertile variety. The berries of dark red color reach a mass of 4,5-5 g, sweet and fragrant. Plants are resistant to many diseases and are practically not affected by pests.
Iput. Early ripe self-fertile grade. The berries are almost black and quite large (up to 5,8 g). Taste is excellent. Plants are resistant to fungal diseases.
Leningrad pink. Self-fertile mid-season grade. Berries with a red “blush” are not too large (weighing about 3,3 g), but very tasty.
Gift of Ryazan. Self-fertile mid-season variety. Berries are yellow with a red “blush”. Large (weighing about 7 g), sweet and very tasty. Plants are resistant to many diseases and pests.
Jealous. A variety of medium-late ripening. Large berries (weighing up to 5 g) are almost black in color. Plants are resistant to many diseases.
Rechitsa. Mid-season self-fertile variety. The berries are dark red, very large and tasty. Plants are resistant to many diseases.
See also: Cherry cultivation in the middle lane
HEAT LOVING APRICOTS - VARIETIES AND CARE
This culture, despite its southern origin, has a good potential for frost resistance (an interesting fact is that in the 17th century several trees were planted in the Tsar Izmailovsky Garden, and over time, the gardens of prosperous residents of the Moscow Region also appeared). But with winter hardiness, things are worse - apricot does not respond well to sudden changes in temperature, when frost is replaced by thaws. Moreover, these factors negatively affect primarily flower buds: during warming, they begin to develop, and subsequent cooling affects them, which means that there is a great risk of being left without a crop or not getting it every year.
Seedlings and young trees in the early years of life suffer the worst of winter. They spend all their strength on growth and do not have time to prepare for winter before the frost. This leads to the fact that not lignified shoots freeze. Another reason for the poor winter hardiness of apricot is called a short and cool summer (characteristic of central Russia). Under such conditions, plants do not have time to accumulate a sufficient amount of nutrients with which they could withstand adverse weather conditions.
Despite all the risks, it is quite possible to grow apricot in Belarus and central Russia. True, for this you need to know the agricultural technology of this culture and apply knowledge in practice. So, choosing a place for apricot, you will have to immediately reject the lowlands, in which cold air and moisture from rain accumulate. Surprisingly, one will have to abandon the planting of apricot on the southern slope - having warmed up in the sun, plants will “wake up” earlier in the spring, and flowering may coincide with spring return frosts. Apricot will grow well and bear fruit in a sunny area, closed from drafts and cold winds. A good solution would be to plant a tree near a fence or outbuilding - to protect it from the wind.
The soil in the area where the apricot grows must be well-drained and breathable - the root system of the apricot needs a constant flow of air throughout the growing season. If the soil in the garden is clay, peat and sand are added to it (1: 1: 1). By the way, most of all apricot will like sandy, loamy and lightly loamy soils with a neutral and slightly acidic reaction (pH 6-7). If there is a deficiency of humus in the soil, rotted manure is added to it at the rate of 3 kg per square meter.
Apricots are planted according to the 6 × 4 m pattern - that is, the distance between the rows should be 4 m, and between the trees in the row -XNUMX m.
The application of mineral fertilizers for apricot largely depends on the type of soil and the presence of nutrients in it. Owners of clay soils should stock up, first of all, with phosphorus fertilizers - they will need at least 100-120 g per square meter.
The best time to plant an apricot is spring. The soil on the site is pre-digged to a depth of about 45 cm and at the same time the necessary fertilizers are applied. After that, the earth is given a "rest" for a couple of weeks. Planting pits are dug before planting seedlings - they should be about 70 cm deep. About 10 kg of humus and up to 1 kg of superphosphate are poured into the bottom of the planting pit.
Apricots will certainly take root on the site, next to which grow old pears or other trees with a powerful and deep root system.
An important stage of apricot farming is the preparation of trees for winter. If the autumn turned out to be warm, shoots continue to grow actively on plants, which means that there is a high risk of freezing of flower buds and wood even in mild winters. To avoid this, experts advise in August to water apricot trees with ash solution. Thanks to this procedure, the growth of shoots will stop - and they will have time to ripen.
Do not overfeed young apricot trees with nitrogen fertilizers. Especially in the second half of summer.
Despite the fact that young trees require special attention of the gardener, one should not forget about the "old people" - our concern, especially in May and June, helps adult plants to form a powerful and healthy leaf canopy.
Early flowering apricots are more likely than other fruit trees to suffer from spring frosts. To protect delicate flowers, you need to cover the tree crowns with a double layer of agrofabric, tying it in the corners to the branches so that there is access for pollinating insects. Such "clothes" will protect from frost to -4 ° C.
In central Russia and Belarus it is advisable to plant zoned apricot varieties. Increasingly, gardeners prefer the Triumph North variety. A tall tree with a spreading crown is not afraid of either pests or diseases. The plant tolerates the vagaries of weather and even severe frosts without much loss. Since the kidneys do not suffer from low temperatures, the apricot of this variety shows a stable yield. And this variety is self-pollinated - that is, it can grow without cross-pollination and other apricots in the neighborhood. The first crop of plants of this variety is usually given at the age of 3 years. Each adult tree per season can produce up to 60 kg of large, juicy and very sweet fruits. Harvest from mid-July to mid-August.
Iceberg. Tall (up to 3 m) tree with a spreading crown, which even with abundant flowering gives a not very large crop. Fruits weighing about 25 g, roundish, pubescent, yellow-orange in color with a slight “blush”. Taste good: apricots are tender and juicy. The bone separates well. The crop ripens in late July - early August.
Alyosha. Plants of this variety are vigorous (up to 4 m) with a spreading crown. Due to the large flowers look very decorative. Fruits weighing about 20 g are rounded, bright yellow in color with a “blush” and slight pubescence, shiny. Taste good. The crop matures relatively early: in late July - early August.
Aquarius. This variety is represented by vigorous (up to 5 m) trees. Appreciated for high productivity. Fruits weighing about 30 g are rounded, yellow in color with a very light “blush”. The taste of apricots of this variety is sweet and sour, but harmonious. The bone separates well. Ripens in 2 decade of August. The disadvantages of this variety include the fact that the fruits are not stored for a long time.
Countess. This tall (up to 6 m) tall-growing tree produces round or oval fruits weighing up to 30 g. Apricot peel is pubescent, creamy or yellowish with a slight “blush”. The pulp is bright orange, juicy and very tasty. The crop ripens in mid-August.
Monastic. This strong-growing (up to 5 m) tree with a large crown is characterized by extraordinary productivity. The fruits reach a mass of 30 g, oval, pubescent, yellow with a red “blush”. The bone separates well. Harvest ripens from mid to late August.
Favorite. Trees of this variety cannot boast high growth (usually they reach a height of 3 m), but are very appreciated by gardeners for large (weighing about 30 g) fruits of a slightly uneven shape and a beautiful yellow-orange color. Apricots of this variety are very tasty and with a small seed, which separates well. Ripens from mid to late August.
Royal. Despite the impressive name, the trees of this variety are relatively low - up to 3 m, but with very large (up to 4 cm in diameter) flowers. Fruits weighing about 25 g are oval, beautiful yellow in color with a “blush”. Apricots of this variety are very tasty, juicy and aromatic. Ripens in early August.
Lel. Plants of this variety are relatively low (about 3 m) with a compact crown and moderate growth. Medium-sized fruits reach a mass of 20 g. They differ from other apricots in a beautiful golden orange hue. The taste is sweet and sour, but harmonious. The bone separates well. Ripens in early August.
See also: Apricots in the Middle lane: planting and care - K / S \ x science advises
Watermelon and melon
Watermelons and melons are not so common in our areas, although, thanks to the work of breeders and good agricultural technology, these crops can be grown without much difficulty in Belarus and central Russia.
Both watermelons and melons belong to light and heat-loving crops. The seeds of these plants germinate only at temperatures above 17 ° C, and the optimum temperature for seedlings and adult plants is from 25 to 35 ° C. Since watermelons and melons are drought tolerant plants, high humidity is contraindicated, since excess moisture can provoke fungal diseases. Optimum indicators of humidity of air - 60-70%.
When growing watermelons and melons (as is the case with other heat-loving crops), special attention should be paid to the choice of variety. In our climatic conditions, it is advisable to grow only early ripe varieties of watermelons and melons.
You should not buy varieties with very large fruits for growing in Belarus and central Russia, because to achieve such a size of watermelons and melons is possible only in favorable conditions of the southern regions.
When choosing a variety, be sure to pay attention to the number of days that must pass from fruit setting to ripening - the smaller the number, the better. Therefore, experts advise to acquire varieties that have time to ripen in the middle lane and at the same time give tasty and sweet fruits, albeit not very large. Growing heat-loving watermelons and melons in a harsh climate, be prepared to neglect the large-scale and transportability of the crop, as well as the shape and color of the fruits.
In the climate of the middle strip, watermelons and melons can only be grown in seedlings. Moreover, the quality and health of seedlings significantly affect the future crop. From sowing seeds to transplanting seedlings to a permanent place, usually takes 30-35 days. Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown in separate pots with a diameter of about 10 cm without picking, so as not to damage the delicate root system of seedlings during transplanting. By the way, in one pot you can immediately grow 2 plants.
When grown in the middle lane, watermelon hybrids F1 Gift to the North, F1 Pink Champagne, F1 Krimstar and F1 near Moscow Charleston worked well. And among all varieties and hybrids of melon, Cinderella is recognized as one of the best for Belarus.
Seeds are pre-soaked or germinated before sowing, so that seedlings appear faster. In order for the shoots to be friendly, the crops should be in a room with a rather high temperature - about 30 ° C. In the future, seedlings will feel comfortable at a temperature of about 25 ° C during the day and about 20 ° C at night.
Usually, watermelon and melon seeds are sown on seedlings in mid-April, so you can do without additional exposure - it will be enough to place containers with plants on the southern windowsill, where there is a lot of sun. It is very important not only where, but also how the plants are located: ideally, seedlings should not come in contact with the leaves with each other. Therefore, as the plants grow, the pots move away from one another.
During the growth, the seedlings are fed twice with complex mineral fertilizers - according to the instructions.
Seedlings are planted in a permanent place, in which 3-5 true leaves have formed. A week before the “relocation”, the plants are hardened: in the daytime, the temperature is reduced to 17 ° C, at night - to 15 ° C.
Seedlings of watermelons and melons are grown almost identically, however, there is one significant difference. Since female flowers on lateral shoots form on melons earlier than on the main one, the tops of plants are pinched over the 3-5 leaf even in the seedling period.
In central Russia, watermelons and melons can be grown either in a greenhouse or under a temporary film shelter.
If the choice is made in favor of the greenhouse, it is important that its height be at least 170 cm, since both watermelons and melons in the protected ground are tied to the trellis.
In the spring, after the soil in the greenhouse thaws, cold-resistant precocious crops are planted in it. And only after their harvest comes the time of heat-loving watermelons and melons. As a rule, the soil in the greenhouse by this time is already well warmed up - exactly what these southern guests need.
But it is much easier to grow watermelons and melons under temporary film shelters. The structure and covering material can be any, the main thing is that the width and height of the structure are within 70 cm.
As we have already said, watermelons and melons are heat-loving crops, so you should not hurry with planting seedlings for a permanent place - despite the possible warm weather, it is best to plant seedlings of watermelons and melons under a film shelter not earlier than May 15-20. If in this case, too, a cold snap occurs, the film shelters for the night are additionally insulated with a film or rags.
Seedlings of watermelons and melons are planted in the greenhouse according to the scheme of 70 × 50 cm. When grown under film shelters, plants are planted in 1 row at a distance of 50 cm from each other. In this case, 2 plants can be planted in one hole, most importantly, in the future, send them in different directions.
Before planting seedlings, 1,5-2 kg of humus or compost is introduced into each well, after which they are well watered with warm water. Seedlings are planted directly in this "pulp", pouring dry soil as necessary.
Plants that grew in peat pots are planted in the ground with them.
In the first week after planting, they try not to touch the plants - they give them time to adapt to new conditions. The main thing at this time is to air the watermelons and melons. This should be done in sunny warm weather, as well as when the temperature rises above 30 ° C. In this case, you can open the window of the greenhouse or lift the film at the ends of the film shelter.
About a week later, when the soil dries up, the plants are watered with warm water and simultaneously fed with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 l of water. For each plant, 2 l of nutrient solution is consumed.
If the plants will grow under a film cover, you need to cover them with film immediately after planting.
Watering watermelons and melons at this stage must be done carefully so that moisture does not get on the leaves.
If watermelons and melons grow in the greenhouse, then 10 days after the “relocation” they are tied up just like cucumbers. Watermelons form a stalk in Xnumx. The lateral shoots without ovaries are removed, the shoots with the fruits tied up are nipped, leaving an 1-2 leaf over the ovary. After the plant reaches the trellis, pinch it.
After the 2 (maximum 3 maximum) of the fruit is formed on the plant and grows the size of a chicken egg, all other ovaries will need to be removed so that the fruits have time to ripen.
As for the melon, after pinching the top in the seedling phase, several lateral shoots are formed on the plant. From them choose 1 or 2 - the strongest and lead them as the main stem, tying to the trellis. The remaining shoots are removed. In the future, melons form in the same way as watermelons.
Both watermelons and melons are watered first 1 once a week, and during the ripening period the number of irrigations is reduced.
After the first nitrogen feeding (a week after planting), watermelons and melons are “treated” with complex fertilizers at least 2 times - with an interval of 2-3 weeks.
Another important point is the garter of the fruit. Ovaries that have reached the size of a large apple are placed in the middle of a square piece of mesh, the edges of which are tied and tied to the trellis. Such a fate should befall every fetus.
If watermelons and melons grow under a film cover, the film is not removed until the middle or even the end of June - it all depends on the weather. However, after the plants begin to bloom, it is necessary to ensure access to them by pollinating insects.
When the film is completely removed, the bed will need to be weeded and loosened on it. At the same time, the shoots of watermelons and melons are trying to evenly distribute over the area of the garden.
After 1 to 3 fruits are formed on the plant, all other ovaries will need to be removed, and the tops of the bushes must be nipped so that all the forces of the plant and nutrients are used to fill the fruits.
If no fruit has formed on the side shoots, they are cut so that the plants receive more sunlight.
Watermelons and melons are fed in open ground in the same way as plants in a greenhouse.
And do not forget to put a plank under each ovary - so that the fruits do not rot.
See also: Melons and watermelons in the Middle lane - in the greenhouse and open ground!
EXOTIC FLOWERS AND DECORATIVE PLANTS IN THE CONTAINER GARDEN
Spending a vacation in the country, sometimes I want to close my eyes and imagine myself in the Mediterranean world. Walks in olive and lemon groves, streets decorated with oleanders, gardens with figs and pomegranate ... If you are not planning a trip to warm countries this year, try adding some southern flavor to your garden - decorate the Mediterranean-style terrace! Moreover, it is not at all as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
It is possible to grow exotic thermophilic cultures in our climate in containers. In the warm season, they will decorate a balcony, porch or relaxation area, and in winter they will turn a house or apartment into a paradise.
Pay attention to the flowering shrubs - oleander and bougainvillea. They come in different varieties with simple and double flowers of various shades: white, pink, scarlet, salmon, etc. By the way, the recently popular red oleander is considered a symbol of southern Europe. A tall evergreen shrub with narrow leaves and luxurious large flowers has for many years adorned terraces and palace parks, for which it was even called an aristocratic plant. Did you know that an interesting belief is connected with this plant? It is believed that the oleander has a good effect on the atmosphere in the house and gives the owners a good mood.
Do not ignore the early agapanthus. Bright inflorescences-balls of dark blue or white will not go unnoticed. In addition, this luxurious handsome man is quite unpretentious in leaving. All he needs is a narrow pot, regular moderate watering and a few top dressings per year. To bloom was lush and plentiful, try to "settle" agapanthus in a sunny place.
Olive is not only very decorative thanks to the brilliant silver foliage, but can also yield crops even in our climate. By the way, in order for the fruits to be edible, they will need to be soaked well in saline.
It is rare that a terrace in the south is not decorated with figs. If favorable conditions are created for this plant, it will also produce crops twice a season: the first fruits are ripened in March and ripen in June, the second wave of harvest falls in October.
If beauty and practicality are important to you, try making friends not only with the decorative Nana dwarf pomegranate, but also with fruit varieties - for example, Dente di Cavallo. Do not be afraid of the southern origin of these crops - they can easily winter in a greenhouse and even in an unheated room.
The strawberry tree looks very decorative. Here you can’t just eat its fruits - they are bitter.
A real count in the garden will look like a noble laurel. This plant has an ideal shape and is quite unpretentious to growing conditions - it can tolerate both the sun and shadow equally well.
If you like citrus crops, be sure to take a look at kumquat and calamondin. Although these crops grow quite slowly, they branch well and form a beautiful bush. And in the season, the plants are strewn with bright tasty fruits. Do not refuse and the cultivation of orange and lemon trees - they seemed to have absorbed all the southern charm. To place these plants in comfort, take a spot for them on the balcony or terrace. And be prepared to feel like a traveler who is in a Mediterranean resort. And if you have the patience and provide these plants with the right care, over time you can fully count on the crop.
How do temperature changes affect plants? How to adapt heat-loving crops to a colder climate and what is the benefit of growing from seeds?
Growing unusual exotic plants for the Middle Strip - photos, planting and care
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Transplanting vegetables and other plants into pots and tubs for the winter
- How do I grow NOT large pumpkins (Moscow region)
- Pumpkin variety Belorusskaya - my reviews, the benefits of pumpkin
- Kuuziku (rutabaga feed) photo, cultivation - farmer's advice
- Vegetable physalis - planting and care (Moscow)
- How to grow green peas in buckets
- Growing peas - planting and care, my secrets and advice (Tver region)
- Blood red sorrel (PHOTO) cultivation, planting and care
- Seeds and seedlings from A to Z - choice, preparation, sowing, etc.
- How to increase the harvest of vegetables at the end of the season
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Watermelon is a heat-loving culture, but it can be grown not only in hot countries, but also in our climatic conditions. It is only necessary to create favorable conditions for this plant: heat, low humidity and good illumination.
In our region, I grow striped berries in a greenhouse. The optimum temperature for normal growth is plus 25-30 degrees during the day and 18 - at night. The "house" for watermelons should be in a sunny place away from bushes and trees.
The right choice of variety is the main secret of growing watermelons. For our climate, I choose early ripe varieties that grow and mature quickly: Sugar Baby, Pink Champagne, Gift to the North, Krimstar.
Note
You should not try to grow very large varieties of watermelons. This is only possible in warm countries.
To grow watermelon in our climate, you can only use seedlings. Prepare in advance small pots with a diameter of 10 cm and a soil mixture of peat, humus and garden soil in the proportion 1: 2: 1 with a small addition of ash. Around mid-April, plant two seeds in each pot.
To accelerate the emergence of seedlings, you can pre-soak and germinate the seeds. The pots are covered with a film and maintained at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, and when shoots appear, reduce it to 18-20 so that the seedlings do not stretch. The sunniest window is allocated for her.
The preparation of the greenhouse or the beds is carried out in advance: they clear it of snow and dig the soil. Watermelons love sandy loam and sandy soil, heavy clay soils are unsuitable for this culture. Since this is a heat-loving culture, it is advisable for it to prepare a warm bed, laying plant debris, fallen leaves and other organic waste at its base. In addition, planting pits are seasoned with rotted manure, compost, wood ash is added.