GROWING WINTER AND SPRING GARLIC - PLANTING AND CARE, THE BEST VARIETIES

Gardeners grow vegetables mainly for themselves. But those who want to get more profit, more profitable than garlic, can not be found. He, of course, is not replete with so many varieties, such as tomatoes. But among the varieties of garlic, it is quite possible to choose those that meet the conditions of a particular site with its soil, microclimate features, location and at the same time are popular and in demand in the market. For 15 years of cultivating garlic, I was convinced of this.

Find differences

Garlic happens spring and winter. Spring garlic is planted, as a rule, in the spring, and winter - in the fall. Unlike spring, winter varieties are characterized by high frost resistance, withstand temperatures up to -20 ° C. True, in recent years, due to the dry spring, many gardeners plant spring garlic in the autumn.

In spring garlic, the head and individual teeth are, as a rule, always smaller than in winter, but it lasts longer. At the same time, winter garlic is considered more productive.

Spring garlic does not shoot, propagates only with teeth. Winter garlic “shoots” arrows in which seeds ripen. It propagates by teeth, single-tooth bulbs, air bulbs (bulbs).

However, there are also non-shooting varieties of winter garlic, which are often confused with spring, as they look very similar in appearance. In this case, winter garlic forms the so-called false arrow, on which the seeds are located above the very teeth. Such garlic has a lot of advantages, but it is not stored for long. In some regions, non-shooting winter garlic is called a wattle, as it, like spring garlic, is often braided into a braid.

TALK ABOUT BEST GRADES OF GARLIC

In my garden I grow four winter and two spring varieties of garlic, different in appearance, taste and the number of cloves in the head. I consider the variety to be one of the best Lubashacreated in the Zaporizhzhya region. The growing season is 87-98 days. The head consists of 4-7 large cloves that are easy and quick to clean. Even without top dressing, Lyubasha’s heads grow in weight of 40-100 g, and when top dressing can reach 150-180 g. The taste is sharp, aromatic. Garlic has a universal purpose and is indispensable.

I like the early ripe non-shooting winter variety Messidor Dutch breeding. The head consists of 8-15 teeth. The taste is medium sharp, aromatic. Messidor ripens earlier than Lyubasha, more delicate in taste, he has an attractive presentation, moreover, you do not need to break off the arrows.

I grow a variety on a small area Alexis giant of Russian selection. The head is large (there are specimens weighing up to 100 g), consists of 4-6 teeth. The taste is spicy. Alekseevsky giant differs from other winter varieties by the longest shelf life.

I do not grow much spring garlic. Although it is in demand in the market, it is inferior in yield to winter varieties. Among spring crops, the Sochi 5V variety should be noted. The head is large enough, consists of 8-15 teeth. The taste is medium pungent, aromatic. The main advantage of the variety is its excellent keeping quality.

Noteworthy variety Nadia. The head consists of 4-8 teeth. The variety has good keeping quality.

---

See also:  Growing of spring garlic and its comparison with winter wheat

---

FEATURES OF AGRICULTURAL EQUIPMENT OF WINTER GARLIC

For growing winter garlic, I use the area freed up after cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkins, cabbage, potatoes. The site must be protected from the wind. I never plant garlic after onions and in shaded places. I grow a lot of garlic, so the planting dates are stretched from late September to late October. The beds are cleaned of plant debris, I make a two-year compost (10 kg per 1 m²) A three-year humus is also suitable, but not fresh manure. I bring fresh manure in the spring under the predecessor crops.

Since after harvesting the previous crop the soil has not yet been packed, it is quite simple to cultivate it. Next, I wait a week for the soil to settle after digging, then mark the rows with a marker and make furrows, the bottom of which I sprinkle with ash. I spread the garlic cloves down, the distance between them is 12-15 cm, the row spacing is 30 cm. For planting, I select the cloves from well-ripened, healthy heads without mechanical damage.

Beds with garlic immediately mulch the mowed grass (layer up to 5 cm). I don’t take off the mulch in spring - seedlings easily overcome this layer of organic matter. Mulching has a good effect: it protects the soil from cracking, retains moisture and inhibits weed growth. If you cover the planting of garlic with a thick layer of mulch, you will have to clean it in the spring, otherwise the soil will warm up for a long time and the plants will lag behind in growth. In addition, mice can wound up in a thick layer of mulch.

In the spring, work on garlic beds consists in feeding and breaking off arrows. Since I am a supporter organic farming, I do not use mineral fertilizers. In early spring, when garlic is especially in need of nitrogen, I prepare herbal infusion. To do this, put crushed nettle, dandelion, put a little celandine in a plastic barrel, pour it with rain water, cover it with burlap and insist for two weeks. Then the resulting mass (1 l), very similar to mullein, I dilute in water (10 l), add 100 g of wood ash and pour garlic under the root.

When the soil is warm enough, I spend the second top dressing - from ordinary bread yeast. For 10 l of water I take 10 g of dry or 50 g of fresh yeast and 5 tbsp. tablespoons of sugar, insist in a warm place for 2 hours, then 1 liter of the resulting yeast infusion I dilute in 10 liters of water and pour the garlic under the root.

Thanks to the mulch, I do not loosen the soil, weeds can appear only at the end of the growing season of garlic, when they are no longer afraid of it. As soon as the arrows appear, I break them off, but not all - I leave a small number of arrows on the seeds. In the spring I sow seeds, in the summer I dig out a single tooth, in the fall I plant it (just like teeth), and the next summer I get full heads. I know from experience: to get good planting material, you need to grow garlic from seeds at least once every four years.

I start harvesting garlic when the stem and leaves begin to turn yellow and dry. Then I cut the tops and roots on a special machine, and sort the heads, put them in nets and send them to the attic, where they definitely will not get wet. In winter, a small amount of winter garlic is stored in an unheated summer kitchen, spread out in wooden low boxes (in one layer) and covered in severe frosts.

I spend spring garlic planting as soon as snow and water come off the beds, sometimes even in February. I use a planting pattern with a row spacing of 25 cm, the distance between plants is 8-10 cm, the depth of the teeth is 3-5 cm. To maintain the productivity of the variety, only external teeth are planted. After harvesting, spring garlic can be stored both braided in a braid and in a spread. Before winter, spring garlic should be planted deeper (5-6 cm) and must be covered.

APPLE GARLIC

Garlic is constantly present on our table, we widely use it in cooking. I offer several of my branded garlic recipes. Broken arrows of garlic, many just throw away, but in vain, from them you can cook a delicious and fragrant seasoning. To do this, rinse the arrows, dry, grind in a meat grinder, mix with salt (70 g of salt per 1 kg of arrows), put in jars, close with ordinary lids and store in the cold.

A great appetizer is garlic in salted fill. We chopped garlic from dry husks, put in a three-liter jar, add 100 g of salt, pour cold water to the top and cover with a nylon cover. You can store such a workpiece even at room temperature.

My family is very fond of garlic, pickled in beetroot juice. Pour the prepared trimmed heads with cold water for a day, then rinse, put it tightly in a three-liter jar and fill it with beet juice (dilute 1 g of sugar and 50 g of salt in 70 liter of water, boil, cool and add 300 g of beet juice). We cover the jar with a regular nylon cover and keep it at room temperature for a month so that the garlic is fermented. The teeth are beautiful red.

Garlic is a valuable food and healing crop. If you pay more attention to its cultivation, choose the right varieties, you can get a good harvest, which is quite enough for your own needs, and to replenish the family budget.

---

WINTER AND SPRING GARLIC - WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN GROWING: TIPS FROM GARDENERS

---

GARLIC TIME TO THE BED

Everyone knows that garlic is winter and spring (summer).

But not everyone can distinguish one from the other.

But winter garlic needs to be planted in late autumn, spring garlic - in spring. It depends on whether you get the harvest.

I am a novice gardener, I want to buy garlic on the market for planting, but I do not know how to distinguish summer from winter ...

Natalia Ivanova, Moscow

- Winter garlic has a small, almost always even number (mostly - 6, 8) cloves. In spring there are many cloves (11-20), they are of different sizes and even shapes. In the center of the head, winter garlic has a stem, from which the cloves can be separated, while the spring garlic does not.

It is necessary to plant spring garlic as early as possible (in late March - early April), when the earth warms up to + 5 ... + 7 degrees, otherwise the plants will lack moisture, they will root badly and nutrients from the cloves will go to the leaves, and not to formation of heads.

When planting, close the cloves of spring garlic to a depth of 3-6 cm at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other and 20 cm between the rows.

Winter garlic is planted before winter (usually in October), when it is already quite cold, and sometimes after the first snow. The plant takes root before frost and in this form leaves in the winter.

TIP: If you are a fan of garlic greens, winter garlic can also be planted in spring - then it will form the so-called side feathers, which can be added to salads.

© Author: Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences

5 HARVEST SECRETS

Simple rules, which a friend agronomist shared a few years ago, help me to grow large heads of summer garlic.

1. At the end of March, I select only the largest cloves from the head for planting.
2. I soak them for a day in a 0% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (1 g of powder per 1 liter of water).
3. A week before disembarking, I prepare a garden bed. For 1 square meter of land I bring in 2 tbsp for digging. potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. superphosphate, 2 tbsp. wood ash, 1 tbsp. chalk, 10 kg of humus. I form a raised bed and level the surface.
4. Before planting the garlic, I spill the soil (if the earth has dried out).
5. With the emergence of shoots, I feed the garlic once with a urea solution (10 g per bucket of water).

© Author: Ksenia SIDOROVA, Ulyanovsk

---

See also:  Garlic spring or winter - differences?

---

HOW TO DISTINCT WINTER AND SPRING GARLIC - VIDEO

© Author: Yuri KALENYUK, p. Korichintsy, Khmelnitsky region

ORDER QUALITY AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER PRODUCTS FOR HOME AND COTTAGE. PRICES ARE BOTTLE. CHECKED! JUST LOOK FOR YOURSELF AND BE AMAZED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>>

Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"

---

Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.

Let's be friends!