DIY seedling of flowers - sowing and care, picking
Contents ✓
OWN SEEDLESS OF FLOWERS ALWAYS BETTER
PREPARATION FOR SOWING
How to properly prepare the soil and seedlings for sowing flowers? How to treat seeds before sowing?
Nina Ilyushchits, Pskov
- You can buy ready-made soil (of the company you trust) or prepare the mixture yourself on the basis of soil (garden, forest, field), which must be decontaminated with copper sulfate solution (100 g / 10 l of water) before use. Or during the winter 2-3 times to bring such land into a warm room for 7-10 days, so that weeds germinate and wreckers wake up. then bring it back to the cold, where pests and weeds die.
Before sowing, it is important to disinfect seedlings (even new ones) in a solution of bleach (200 g / 10 l of water) or copper sulfate (100 g / 1 l). It is preferable to soak the seeds in any growth stimulator: Epine, Zircon. NV-101 or in some other (according to the instructions) to accelerate their germination and vitality. It is important to consider the depth of sowing: it should be equal to three times the thickness of the seed or specifically recommended in the instructions.
See also: Preparing the soil for sowing seedlings, rooting cuttings, transplanting flowers
PICK UP CORRECTLY
Why do you need a pick of flower seedlings? Will this operation protect the seedlings from the black leg?
Maria Sevostyanova
- Seedlings of flower crops are planted when the first true leaves appear. You can, of course, grow seedlings without diving, however, the root system of the burrowing plants develops better, and they, accordingly, will be stronger and stronger. On the eve of seedlings must be watered. After a pick for 2-3 days, pritenit. For successful seedling growth, it is necessary to feed it with complex mineral fertilizers two to three times. First time. when two or three leaves appear, the last - shortly before the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.
Blackleg
The lower part of the stem of the plants darkens, becomes thin and rots. The development of the disease accelerates with a sharp fluctuation in soil temperature and frequent watering. especially cold water. At the first manifestations of the lesion, it is necessary to carefully remove the damaged specimens, pour the seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate - 1.5 g / 5 l of water (3 g is 0.5 tsp, pour on paper and divide into two parts) and do not moisten for several days. Mulch the soil with a calcined sand layer of 1-2 cm or a mixture of sand and ash.
See also: Seedlings - planting, growing and leaving from A to Z
CARE FOR SEEDS OF SEEDLING OF FLOWERS
Share the nuances of crop care. Do February seedlings need to be lightened up and how many hours?
Mikhail Komlev
- After sowing the seeds, they are watered with water at room temperature from a watering can with a small strainer, covered with glass or film and put the box in a warm place. The optimum germination temperature for most crops is + 20-24 degrees. Every day it is necessary to ventilate the crops, otherwise the seeds may suffocate, and remove the condensation from the shelter.
After emergence, the capacity is transferred to a bright place, lowering the temperature in the first days to + 16-18 degrees.
The daylight hours in the second half of winter are short, so you need to illuminate the seedlings with fluorescent lamps of white or daylight - in the morning or evening hours. In February - an additional 6 hours, in March a little less.
IMPORTANT!
In the room where seedlings grow, air humidity must be controlled and regulated.
GROWING SEEDLINGS OF FLOWERS, PLANTING AND CARE, ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
FLOWER SEEDLING IN QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
On the way to getting healthy seedlings, flower growers often face problems: seeds do not germinate well or do not germinate at all, diseases appear, seedlings grow weak. Armed with knowledge, many troubles can be avoided. Dear readers, our specialists answer your most pressing questions.
Before sowing, flower seeds are soaked in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. I've heard that it can harm them. This is true? What then to replace the drug?
Valeria Romanova, Moscow region
- Such disinfection suppresses not only harmful microorganisms (viruses, bacteria, fungi), but also beneficial ones. The embryos themselves are also stressed. Therefore, it is better to use biofungicides for these purposes ("Alirin" with "Gama-ir", "Fitosporin-M", "Extrasol") or protective-stimulating drugs, for example, "Epin-Extra", "Zircon".
By the way, "Alirin" and "Gamair" will protect the seeds not only from the outside, but also inside. It is enough to dissolve 1 tablet of each drug in 1 tbsp. water and soak the seeds before sowing for 2 hours.
Soil for sowing seeds has been prepared since autumn. Until February-March, I keep it in a greenhouse on the site. I also tried steaming the substrate in the microwave. Is it necessary to somehow restore soil fertility after such treatments?
Maria Kochanova
- Yes need. To restore the microflora in the soil, it is necessary to introduce beneficial microorganisms by spilling the earth with a solution of one of the biological products ("Fitosporin-M", "Alirin" with "Gamair", EM preparations - "Shine" or "Baikal"; according to the instructions). A good result is obtained by sowing seeds in peat tablets, which already contain antibacterial additives (suppressing the development of fungi and mold), growth stimulants and mineral fertilizers.
I'm going to sow viola, aster and balsam. It is advised to keep crops at different temperatures. Is it really that important?
Alla Klimova, Kolomna
- The seeds of most plant species germinate at a temperature of about + 18-20 degrees. But there are exceptions. Cold-resistant crops (ageratum, Wittrock's viola, sweet pea, daisy, levkoy, alyssum, scabiosa, aster, chrysanthemum, carnation) should preferably be kept at a temperature of + 15-18 degrees, and heat-loving (gatzania, sage, kobeya, balsam, morning glory, pelargonium , celosia, tunbergia) - + 25-30 degrees. It is important that for sissies the column does not fall below +23 degrees.
Conditions are adjusted after germination. Cold-resistant raise the temperature of the content by 2 degrees, and heat-loving lower it to + 22-24 degrees.
Last year I used a phytolamp for the first time when growing seedlings. Probably fixed it low - some of the seedlings seemed to be burned. How to correctly adjust the height from the light source to the plants? What to pay attention to?
Zinaida Adamovna
- I spoke in detail about the illumination of seedlings in Flower No. 2 for 2023. I repeat that the optimal distance from the lamp to seedlings should be within 25-30 cm. But in any case, you need to watch the plants.
If burns appear (as in your case), the phytolamp may be too close. It needs to be lifted up or pushed aside.
If the leaves of the seedlings turn pale, and the stems are drawn out inconsistently with the appearance, then there is not enough light. The lamp needs to be moved a little or hung a little lower.
When the stems are bent, the light is most likely coming from only one side. Move the lamp up, simulating the sun.
Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. s / h Sciences, Michurinsk
Once my seedlings were damaged by some insects. I suspect that I brought them with poor-quality store soil. Now I'm trying to disinfect it. But still I want to know which pests often settle on seedlings, how to recognize them and how to deal with them?
Tatiana Katkova
- Sometimes tender shoots of seedlings are attacked not only by harmful insects brought with other plants or soil, but also wintering on indoor flowers.
Growing seedlings of flowers and how business and yourself - VIDEO
© Posted by Oleg TsVIRKO, Head of Ecoflora Farm, Michalovo Village, Minsk Region Photo by Valentina BONDAR
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In January, I lay flower seeds for stratification: 3-4 weeks are needed for stratification of seeds of aquilegia, delphinium, lobelia, Chinese rose, primrose;
- from 30 to 50 days - planting material of aconite, anemones and hostas;
- from two to four months - seeds of irises, clematis, lavender, violets and phlox.
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Crops before winter - for seedlings and in the ground
I will tell you which seeds of flowers can be sown for seedlings already in November-December (additional glowing is required), and which are not too late and right into the ground (if the ground is not frozen yet).
Eustoma (or lisianthus). I sow the seeds of this beauty for seedlings just before the New Year. I transplant it into open ground in early May. As a result, a gorgeous bloom in the flowerbed already at the beginning of June.
Delphinium. Its seeds require stratification, that is, keeping at a low temperature. Therefore, they can be sown now in open ground or put in a paper bag for stratification in the refrigerator (keep there until sowing for seedlings in late February-early March).
Primrose. When sowing for seedlings in December and observing the basic conditions (additional lighting, temperature not higher than + 18 degrees), the flowers will bloom quite enough
but in the first spring. No desire to tinker with seedlings? Sow right in the garden before winter! True, not all varieties are suitable for this purpose (it is better to choose those that require cold stratification). With podzimny sowing, primrose will bloom in a year.
Nigella. This flower does not tolerate transplanting very well, so I sow seeds directly into the ground in November (and as a bonus, I get early flowering).
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Last year, cold and wet April and May provoked a massive infection of my flower seedlings in greenhouses (I grow for sale in large quantities) with fusarium. The disease sneaks up unnoticed, kills quickly and on the spot: even in the evening you will find a completely healthy plant wilted in the morning. The reason is an insidious fungus that infects plants through roots or wounds. Infected seedlings completely wither and die, it is almost impossible to cure it.
Last season, more than 200 pots of ampelous petunias and calibrachoa were scrapped, and I did not even count the discarded glasses with spray petunias. Fusarium did not affect the rest of the inhabitants of greenhouses, which became a big mystery to me. Why petunia? Probably, hybrids (and I only have them) turned out to be completely unstable to this infection.
Frankly, I was at a loss: there has never been such a massive defeat. And friends and acquaintances began to complain that they had the same trouble in their greenhouses. It turned out that dampness, cold, cloudy weather - all this in combination became a favorable environment for the development of the disease. Now for a good lesson for the future.
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What to do to prevent fusarium from harming plants?
Avoid excessive waterlogging of the soil. Due to the lingering cloudy weather, the soil in my flower pots did not have time to dry out equally. It is simply unrealistic to water selectively the seedlings of my volumes, so many plants turned out to be waterlogged.
Before diving or landing, spill the ground with antifungal agents (such as Alirin-B).
Get rid of plants showing signs of fusarium wilting immediately. They become a breeding ground for disease. Never reuse the soil from the pot! Rinse the container thoroughly.
Handle infected plants only with gloves to prevent the spread of the fungus through your hands to other plants.
If the weather conditions favor the spread of the fungus, regularly, once a week, spray and water the plants with an antifungal agent (for example, the same Alirin).
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In early March, I start sowing annual flowers for seedlings. To do this, all winter I collect cartons of juice or milk. I cut off one wide side of the boxes with scissors, rinse and dry them. These uncomplicated containers do not get wet, they are easy to carry from place to place and turn in different directions to the sun when shoots appear, and after planting the plants in the open ground, it is not a pity to throw the boxes away. I keep flower seedlings on the windowsill, placing them along the window glass or between flower pots. So it does not interfere with indoor flowers. And in order not to spoil the windowsill, I put each box in a foam backing for food (they most often sell all kinds of cuts).
On the side of the boxes I glue a patch-label with the name of the plant or a piece of a picture from a purchased pack of seeds, so that I know in the future what shade the flowers will be.
I sow especially small seeds of petunia, alyssum, lobelia and purslane in the snow (I pour a layer of snow 1 cm over the ground into boxes). Microscopic seeds are perfectly visible on a white background, and they can be distributed on the surface quite rarely and evenly so as not to thin out later. And you don't need to water the ground right away - the snow will melt, moisten the soil and carry the seeds with it exactly to the depth at which the seedlings should appear.
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I would like to know if it is necessary to pinch the seedlings of the summer and how to plant its soil?
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A pinch is needed, but they do this so that the plants do not stretch too much and bush better. Before planting seedlings in open ground, the soil in which it is located is highly moistened by immersing the box in water. The planted seedlings are abundantly watered and shaded from the sun's rays. In damp cool weather, plants are watered once a week, in dry weather - two.