Growing tomatoes in the Arkhangelsk region - planting and care
Growing tomatoes in the north, in the Arkhangelsk region
Even in the North, with a protracted and cold spring, when there are no leaves on the trees until the beginning of June, and the icy rainy summer, which is not much different from autumn, I get a tomato crop every year.
I begin to grow seedlings from about mid-March 60 days before planting in a permanent place. In the process of growth, I transfer 1-2 times in larger containers: from 0, 5-liter pots (after the first pick) to 1-2-liter pots (a month before planting).
IMPORTANT. Overgrown seedlings in a tight container noticeably lose both in yield and in growth rate after planting in the ground.
As seedlings grow, I follow the development of plants. It happens that a tomato looks frail, with drooping thin leaves, but this is not always a sign of illness. Often varieties with heart-shaped fruits in seedlings behave this way, they are ugly, and this is their varietal feature. Many gardeners must have noticed that the seedlings of some varieties are beautiful, strong, lush, while others, on the contrary, are modest, thin, as if exhausted. However, this does not affect productivity.
However, sometimes the reason for the slow development of plants is their malaise. I sometimes notice an odema on tomato and pepper. It is also called dropsy. Symptoms are easy to notice: on the back of the leaves appear bulging, bright, wart-like growths - “blisters”. The reason for its appearance is excessive watering in the absence of ventilation and good lighting.
Weak manifestations of odema do not harm the plant, but its strong development leads to curl of the leaves. The plant noticeably lags in growth and may even die. The treatment here is simple: it is necessary to remove all the inhibitory factors, and the plant will recover without losing yield.
When the seedlings from the apartment fall into the greenhouse, I first cover it with a spanbond. Otherwise, plants in the bright sun, unusual for them, get leaf burns.
Tomatoes and cucumbers in greenhouses are interchanged every year, so the soil from last year is already quite well seasoned. Fresh manure to tomatoes is completely contraindicated, they will begin to fatten.
See also: Growing eggplant and tomatoes in the Primorsky Territory - planting and care
I plant seedlings in the greenhouse on the 20th of May. From frosts, and we sometimes have them until June, I cover with covering material for the night. And make sure that the leaves do not touch the walls of the greenhouse.
It is very important to guess the timing of planting seedlings. Tomatoes planted on time give an early and well-ripened crop and go away from diseases, especially from late blight.
IMPORTANT. Overgrown tomatoes I plant "lying", breaking off those leaves that will be underground, and having the stem no deeper than 10 cm.
I tie plants only with new synthetic ropes. I fold them in half so that they do not dig into the stems. It seems to me that "shaggy" natural hemp can injure stems, and used ropes can be a source of pathogenic spores of late blight, cladosporiosis, etc.
Until steady heat arrives, I do not mulch the earth under the tomatoes, so as not to impede its heating. But by the end of June, we are getting warm, and the mulch is already very useful.
I form tomatoes in 2 stems, I leave one stepson under the first flower brush. Be sure to remove the terry (fused) flowers.
Tomatoes love dry, warm, moving air. But wet, stagnant, with condensate can not stand. Therefore, since mid-June, in steadily warm weather, I have not closed the doors in the greenhouse either day or night £ (even when it rains). It is the door, not just the window! I start to close the greenhouse only by September (depending on the weather). This saves plants from brown spotting (cladosporiosis). In stagnant, cold, humid air, this disease spreads at cosmic speed! However, during cold nights I close the greenhouse, otherwise late blight cannot be avoided.
By the way, what is better for growing, varieties or hybrids?
Varietal tomatoes are very diverse in terms of fruit size, color, and taste. Yes, and seeds can be collected from them. However, most of them are inferior to hybrids in terms of disease resistance and, to hide, productivity.
IMPORTANT. Be sure to remove the leaves on the tomatoes. As soon as the fruits on the first brush reach varietal size, under this brush gradually, 1-2 leaves I pluck out all the "vegetation" on the trunk. Often it is the lower leaves that start to hurt first, so you need to remove them. By the same principle, I remove the leaves and above, under the second and third brush. But you need to do this gradually, cutting off no more than 1-2 sheets per day. Otherwise, a plant that suddenly lost most of its leaves will rush to build leaf mass. And this delays the bearing.
IMPORTANT. Be sure to remove the leaves on the tomatoes. As soon as the fruits on the first brush reach varietal size, under this brush gradually, 1-2 leaves
I water the tomatoes carefully. They do not need high humidity in the greenhouse. And with ordinary watering over the entire surface of the earth this can not be avoided. I dug inverted plastic bottles (1, 5-2 liters) with a cut off bottom (the lid on the neck is closed). And in the walls at a level below the ground, many holes have been made. Now, when watering, water and fertilizers go directly to the roots of plants.
Enhanced watering (but also without fanaticism) is necessary for plants during flowering, fruit setting and pouring them to the size characteristic of the variety. Begin to stain, reduce the amount of irrigation water. Otherwise, the peel on the fruits will crack, and the flesh in the cracks will rot.
IMPORTANT. I periodically inspect and tie the brushes with ovaries, otherwise they may break off under the weight of the pouring tomatoes. And this is very disappointing!
For fertilizers, I use fermented grass (nitrogen top dressing) at the beginning of growth, if the plants are stunted and their leaves are light green. Nitrogen is also needed for a plant loaded with fruits (the symptom is the same, pale color of leaves).
To maintain immunity I use drugs containing succinic acid. I also apply various folk remedies steamed onion husks, bread mash, infusions of ash, bone meal and seaweed. Of organic fertilizers, I prefer potassium humate. At almost every watering I add some fertilizer to the water.
I periodically dust the leaves with dry ash and spray 1-2 times per season with a solution of a biological product against fungal diseases.
Typically, ripened tomatoes at the root are sweeter, with a rich taste. But the green fruits taken after ripening will be sour.
In the autumn, after harvesting the plant debris, I must have my greenhouse with any detergent so that the polycarbonate is not covered with a green coating.
And such a “war” for the harvest in the North goes on every year. Although efforts have to be spent more than in the southern regions, we rejoice like children to every sugar tomato on the table. To his!
See also: The earliest tomatoes in the Middle lane and in the North: varieties + care
VARIETIES OF TOMTAOV FOR NORTH - VIDEO
© Author: O. MELNIKOVA Arkhangelsk Region
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