- ✓ LIFE OF STRAWBERRY
- ✓ 1. LANDING STRAWBOWS
- ✓ 2. WEEDING
- ✓ 3. WATERING STRAWBERRY
- ✓ 4. FEEDING STRAWBOWS
- ✓ 5. COMBATING DISEASES AND PESTS
- ✓ 6. REMOVAL OF STRAWBERRY
- ✓ 7. PREVENTION OF FREEZING
- ✓ 8. REJUVENATION OF THE STRAWBERRY CHAIN
- ✓ 2 FREQUENT QUESTIONS ABOUT STRAWBERRY
- ✓ HOW TO GET A GOOD HARVEST FOR STRAWBERRY - VIDEO
8 TOP TIPS FOR GROWING A HARVEST STRAWBERRY
How to increase the yield of strawberries (strawberry garden)? The summer residents are looking for the answer to this question every season. But the "strawberry" results of many are still not encouraging. Here are the basic agricultural techniques that will help correct the situation for the better.
LIFE OF STRAWBERRY
Mid April-early May
The thickness of the root neck is no thinner than a pencil
The roots are branched, at least 7 cm (cut too long so as not to bend in the hole)
Leaves - at least two, without spots
Depth - 7-10 cm, width - 10-15 cm
The distance between the bushes is 25-30 cm for plants of low-growing varieties and 40-50 cm for large bushes; between rows - 70-90 cm
1. LANDING STRAWBOWS
You will get many berries only on highly fertile soil. Therefore, before planting (no later than 10 days), add organic matter to the soil - 8-10 kg of rotted manure and 1 tbsp. ash per 1 sq.m. Land should be moist during planting (as during the entire growing season).
Seedlings can be both with an open root system, and with a closed (ZKS). The main thing is proper planting: the root neck of the plant should be at the level of the soil. When deepening, the bush will begin to decay, and when bulging out of the ground, the roots will be exposed and frozen in winter.
Weeds not only inhibit cultivated plants, but also become nurseries of diseases and pests. To forget about multiple weeding, plant strawberries on a black spanbond, agrofabric or stabilized black film. In this case, the berries will always be clean. In spring, the soil under such a mulch warms up faster, which means that the bushes begin to develop earlier, the moisture in the ground lasts longer, and the mustache does not take root.
3. WATERING STRAWBERRY
Summer residents water strawberries while the crop is ripening, and how they picked the berries they forget about the plantation. But the development of roots, leaves, the growth of additional horns in the bush, the laying of flower buds in August, and successful wintering depend on soil moisture. Water all season!
Only during fruit ripening, watering is undesirable (taste worsens). Water immediately after picking ripe berries, 2-3 days before the next harvest.
4. FEEDING STRAWBOWS
In spring, strawberries need nitrogen, in the period of budding, flowering and planting flower buds - in potassium, with the growth of berries - in complex fertilizers, in autumn - in phosphorus and potassium. With a good pre-planting seasoning with organics, the first year you can not feed bushes. In the future, carry out 1-2 feeding (according to the instructions on the packaging of mineral fertilizers).
5. COMBATING DISEASES AND PESTS
Strawberries of modern varieties are resistant to diseases and pests. But this does not cancel prevention.
At the beginning of spring, cut off all the old leaves, treat the bushes with a fungicide (Topaz, Horus, Reed sludge, Scor) and an insecticide against a strawberry tick (Actellik). Repeat spraying after fruiting and in August, when the spots begin to “bloom” on the leaves.
From raspberry-strawberry weevil, before blooming the first flowers, treat the beds with an insecticide (Inta-Vir, Fufanon).
Immediately after fruiting, cut and burn the old leaves on the bushes so that the infection does not migrate to the young foliage.
6. REMOVAL OF STRAWBERRY
Do this in a timely manner, including from the second half of summer, so that the bushes grow additional horns to increase the number of peduncles and yield in the next season.
7. PREVENTION OF FREEZING
After a dry autumn and a snowless winter, gardeners complain about the freezing of strawberries. Take note of the following tricks:
- · With the so-called autumn landing, plan to finish the work before the beginning of September (plant from the end of July);
- · In August-September, feed the bushes with phosphorus-potash fertilizers;
- · Before persistent frosts, pour soil into the dirt on the plantation - so reduce the risk of freezing several times;
- · Under the threat of a harsh winter, cover the plantings with a white spanbond.
8. REJUVENATION OF THE STRAWBERRY CHAIN
Bushes of varieties of normal fruiting keep on the bed no more than 3 years, plants of repair varieties - 1 year. Then the berries are smaller, the yield drops sharply.
We reconcile with the Moon
On the lunar calendar of astrologer, doctor of agricultural sciences Valery MATVEEV the closest favorable days for planting strawberry seedlings - April 30, May 1, and with a closed root system - also on May 17, 18, 19.
© Author: Galina LUNGU, biologist
2 FREQUENT QUESTIONS ABOUT STRAWBERRY
Some questions of summer residents can already be classified as myths. Here are two of them. Is it true that ......."Male" strawberry bushes do not give berries?
- Strawberries do not have “male” and “female” bushes. But it’s better to quote the words of a familiar breeder: “I have 2 hectares of fields, they grow 120 varieties of strawberries — 10 thousand bushes. There are no problems with the "male" bushes, everyone works! Many amateur gardeners have problems either from weak sockets (look for a quality manufacturer!) Or from poor care. ”
... strawberries are pollinated, so you can’t plant different varieties of plants nearby?
- Actually it is possible. Just maintain a distance of 1 m between different seedlings so that the mustache “alien” to each other does not interweave (hence the myth of over-pollination).
Anatoly GRANKIN, agronomist.
I’ve been growing strawberries in one place for already ... 24 years!
I can’t transfer it to another site: in our places there are a lot of bears. But, of course, these are not old bushes. Almost every year I replace two rows with new planting material.
In the spring, as the bushes turn green, and the air temperature rises to +15 degrees., I spray the plantation on the leaves with micronutrient Zdoren Turbo. In early June, if strawberry weevils or ticks appear, I process Fufanon. Before picking the row-spacing berries, I loosen, weed, and water additionally before flowering and before setting fruits. And so that the berries are not dirty, I fill up the aisles with sawdust. True, I read that such a mulch takes nitrogen from the soil. To make up for its deficiency, after harvesting and mowing the leaves under watering, I scatter the azofoska (according to the instructions), and dig them up for the winter row spacings.
Galina KLYUSHKINA, Mordovia
WORD TO THE SPECIALIST
These are isolated examples when for so many years it has been possible to successfully grow strawberries in one place. In this case, it is necessary to constantly update planting material, regularly process it from diseases and pests, and observe agricultural measures to improve the soil. But still I recommend changing the location of strawberries.
Natalia KLAKOTSKA, Cand. of sciences
EXPRESS COUNCIL TAMARA GLADKEVICH, G. SLAVGOROD:
During the spring strawberry transplant, I mix clay with humus (2: 1), dilute with water to a creamy state, add a 5 g cap of potassium humate to it. 2 pcs outlets I dip in this talker and put in holes (first I add a handful of humus to each). I dilute the remains of the talker with water to a liquid state and water all the plants. The survival rate is 100%!
HOW TO GET A GOOD HARVEST FOR STRAWBERRY - VIDEO
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