8 TOP TIPS FOR GROWING A HARVEST STRAWBERRY

Strawberry: 8 secrets of a high yield from a specialist

How to increase the yield of strawberries (strawberry garden)? The summer residents are looking for the answer to this question every season. But the "strawberry" results of many are still not encouraging. Here are the basic agricultural techniques that will help correct the situation for the better.

LIFE OF STRAWBERRY

Mid April-early May

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Seedling

The thickness of the root neck is no thinner than a pencil

The roots are branched, at least 7 cm (cut too long so as not to bend in the hole)

Leaves - at least two, without spots

HOLE SIZE

Depth - 7-10 cm, width - 10-15 cm

LANDING SCHEME

The distance between the bushes is 25-30 cm for plants of low-growing varieties and 40-50 cm for large bushes; between rows - 70-90 cm

1. LANDING STRAWBOWS

You will get many berries only on highly fertile soil. Therefore, before planting (no later than 10 days), add organic matter to the soil - 8-10 kg of rotted manure and 1 tbsp. ash per 1 sq.m. Land should be moist during planting (as during the entire growing season).

Seedlings can be both with an open root system, and with a closed (ZKS). The main thing is proper planting: the root neck of the plant should be at the level of the soil. When deepening, the bush will begin to decay, and when bulging out of the ground, the roots will be exposed and frozen in winter.

2. WEEDING

Weeds not only inhibit cultivated plants, but also become nurseries of diseases and pests. To forget about multiple weeding, plant strawberries on a black spanbond, agrofabric or stabilized black film. In this case, the berries will always be clean. In spring, the soil under such a mulch warms up faster, which means that the bushes begin to develop earlier, the moisture in the ground lasts longer, and the mustache does not take root.

SECRET OF A BIG CROP STRAWBERRY in the right feeding!

3. WATERING STRAWBERRY

Summer residents water strawberries while the crop is ripening, and how they picked the berries they forget about the plantation. But the development of roots, leaves, the growth of additional horns in the bush, the laying of flower buds in August, and successful wintering depend on soil moisture. Water all season!

WATERING BOARD

Only during fruit ripening, watering is undesirable (taste worsens). Water immediately after picking ripe berries, 2-3 days before the next harvest.

4. FEEDING STRAWBOWS

In spring, strawberries need nitrogen, in the period of budding, flowering and planting flower buds - in potassium, with the growth of berries - in complex fertilizers, in autumn - in phosphorus and potassium. With a good pre-planting seasoning with organics, the first year you can not feed bushes. In the future, carry out 1-2 feeding (according to the instructions on the packaging of mineral fertilizers).

5. COMBATING DISEASES AND PESTS

Strawberries of modern varieties are resistant to diseases and pests. But this does not cancel prevention.

At the beginning of spring, cut off all the old leaves, treat the bushes with a fungicide (Topaz, Horus, Reed sludge, Scor) and an insecticide against a strawberry tick (Actellik). Repeat spraying after fruiting and in August, when the spots begin to “bloom” on the leaves.

From raspberry-strawberry weevil, before blooming the first flowers, treat the beds with an insecticide (Inta-Vir, Fufanon).

Immediately after fruiting, cut and burn the old leaves on the bushes so that the infection does not migrate to the young foliage.

6. REMOVAL OF STRAWBERRY

Do this in a timely manner, including from the second half of summer, so that the bushes grow additional horns to increase the number of peduncles and yield in the next season.

7. PREVENTION OF FREEZING

After a dry autumn and a snowless winter, gardeners complain about the freezing of strawberries. Take note of the following tricks:

  • · With the so-called autumn landing, plan to finish the work before the beginning of September (plant from the end of July);
  • · In August-September, feed the bushes with phosphorus-potash fertilizers;
  • · Before persistent frosts, pour soil into the dirt on the plantation - so reduce the risk of freezing several times;
  • · Under the threat of a harsh winter, cover the plantings with a white spanbond.

8. REJUVENATION OF THE STRAWBERRY CHAIN

Bushes of varieties of normal fruiting keep on the bed no more than 3 years, plants of repair varieties - 1 year. Then the berries are smaller, the yield drops sharply.

We reconcile with the Moon

On the lunar calendar of astrologer, doctor of agricultural sciences Valery MATVEEV the closest favorable days for planting strawberry seedlings - April 30, May 1, and with a closed root system - also on May 17, 18, 19.

© Author: Galina LUNGU, biologist

Reference by topic:  Strawberries and strawberries - tips for growing, breeding and caring for gardeners, gardeners and gardeners

2 FREQUENT QUESTIONS ABOUT STRAWBERRY

Some questions of summer residents can already be classified as myths. Here are two of them. Is it true that ......."Male" strawberry bushes do not give berries?

- Strawberries do not have “male” and “female” bushes. But it’s better to quote the words of a familiar breeder: “I have 2 hectares of fields, they grow 120 varieties of strawberries — 10 thousand bushes. There are no problems with the "male" bushes, everyone works! Many amateur gardeners have problems either from weak sockets (look for a quality manufacturer!) Or from poor care. ”

... strawberries are pollinated, so you can’t plant different varieties of plants nearby?

- Actually it is possible. Just maintain a distance of 1 m between different seedlings so that the mustache “alien” to each other does not interweave (hence the myth of over-pollination).

Anatoly GRANKIN, agronomist.

I’ve been growing strawberries in one place for already ... 24 years!

I can’t transfer it to another site: in our places there are a lot of bears. But, of course, these are not old bushes. Almost every year I replace two rows with new planting material.

In the spring, as the bushes turn green, and the air temperature rises to +15 degrees., I spray the plantation on the leaves with micronutrient Zdoren Turbo. In early June, if strawberry weevils or ticks appear, I process Fufanon. Before picking the row-spacing berries, I loosen, weed, and water additionally before flowering and before setting fruits. And so that the berries are not dirty, I fill up the aisles with sawdust. True, I read that such a mulch takes nitrogen from the soil. To make up for its deficiency, after harvesting and mowing the leaves under watering, I scatter the azofoska (according to the instructions), and dig them up for the winter row spacings.

Galina KLYUSHKINA, Mordovia

WORD TO THE SPECIALIST

These are isolated examples when for so many years it has been possible to successfully grow strawberries in one place. In this case, it is necessary to constantly update planting material, regularly process it from diseases and pests, and observe agricultural measures to improve the soil. But still I recommend changing the location of strawberries.

Natalia KLAKOTSKA, Cand. of sciences

EXPRESS COUNCIL TAMARA GLADKEVICH, G. SLAVGOROD:

During the spring strawberry transplant, I mix clay with humus (2: 1), dilute with water to a creamy state, add a 5 g cap of potassium humate to it. 2 pcs outlets I dip in this talker and put in holes (first I add a handful of humus to each). I dilute the remains of the talker with water to a liquid state and water all the plants. The survival rate is 100%!

See also:  Strawberries-strawberries - planting and care from A to Z

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Dacha with their own hands > Garden plants > Strawberries (Strawberries) > Strawberry: 8 secrets of a high yield from a specialist - WITHOUT HARVEST you will not stay!

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6 Review (s)

  1. Natalia KLAKOTSKA, Cand. of sciences

    Take away the mustache on the strawberries

    In June, strawberries (strawberry garden) grows a mustache, so do not forget to remove them in a timely manner, leaving only for seedlings.
    If the beds have not been mulched before, then it is not too late to cover the soil under the bushes with dried grass, wood sawdust, and straw. So you protect the berries from pollution and damage by gray rot. And do not forget about regular weeding and loosening.

    Reply
  2. Oksana GONCHAROVA

    At the beginning and end of flowering, I fertilize strawberries with nettle infusion. This is a real healing elixir for plants! I cut the nettles until seeds appear, finely chop them and put them in a plastic barrel, filling it with a third of the volume. I fill it with water, cover it and insist for a week, stirring regularly. I dilute the concentrated composition before application with water (1:10). And after top dressing, I am abundantly watered with water.

    Reply
  3. Natalia ANDROSIK

    The first years when I started growing strawberries, I thought that this plant was not for me: as soon as the bushes bloomed, the middle of the flowers blackened, and the berries, if they were tied, were small or ugly. What is the reason, none of my friends could tell me. Therefore, when I saw a woman in the market who was selling large and beautiful strawberries in buckets, she came up without hesitation and asked what was the secret of her excellent harvest.

    She shared an unusual recipe that I tried the next season. And - lo and behold! - not a single clumsy berry! Since then, strawberries and I have been collecting buckets. О Now the recipe itself: at the beginning of flowering in a 40-liter water barrel, I breed a large bottle of tar (330 ml), one vial of iodine and fir oil, 1 liter of mullein solution (1:10), 10 g of boric acid. Then I dissolve a glass of this mixture in 10 l of water, filter and spray strawberries (again - in August). By the way, I also process fruit trees and berry bushes with this tool - and save plants from pests.

    Reply
  4. Anna ROMANOVA, Moscow region

    Sometimes my strawberries were watery and unsweetened, especially when the weather was rainy in late spring and early summer. The way out was suggested by a neighbor who has a large “strawberry” experience. Near our sites there is a pond. In recent years, a man has been collecting several buckets of duckweed from it and spreading this mass around strawberry bushes with a layer of 2-3 cm, filling it with soil. So he does at the end of May and then back in mid-summer, when the pond is very shallow and you can collect the necessary amount of sludge. Strawberries from such care become much stronger, which, of course, affects the harvest - the berries grow large, sweet.

    TIP: By the way, pond silt mixed with land is also useful for spreading under fruit trees and berry bushes.

    Reply
  5. Irina Yaremenko

    During the flowering of strawberries, I frighten off a plantation of raspberry-strawberry weevil with an infusion of garlic. 200-300 g of crushed cloves pour 10 liters of water, mix, insist for a day, filter. I spray the bushes every night.

    Slugs with snails also bring a lot of problems. To prevent these pests from moving, sprinkle the ground around the plants and between the rows with crushed egg shells, fine gravel, ash, coffee grounds, hot pepper powder.

    Reply
  6. Vera LIPAI

    At the beginning of flowering of strawberries, I water the bushes with an infusion of ash (1 tbsp. Per 1 liter of boiling water, after cooling, I dilute in 10 l of water) - 0,5 l per plant. Ash is rich in potassium, phosphorus and trace elements. Phosphorus is needed as a reserve for the future, but potassium strawberries are very necessary now.

    It regulates the metabolism, promotes the accumulation of sugars in berries. After 4-5 days, be sure to spray the leaves with a solution of boric acid (2 g of powder pour 1 tbsp of boiling water (!), After cooling, I bring the volume of the composition to 5 l and pour into a sprayer). I work in dry, calm weather in the late afternoon, when there is no longer any active sun. Such foliar top dressing stimulates fruit set (there will be less empty flowers) and protects bushes from fungal diseases.

    Reply

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