2 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    They say that the type of soil on the site can be determined by the weeds that grow on it. If someone knows how to define it, please write.

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    • OOO "Sad"

      Determining the acidity of the soil by plants is very simple. Take a closer look: if your site is dominated by horsetail, plantain, sedge, horse sorrel, wood lice, then the soil is most likely acidic. On neutral or slightly acidic, bindweed, coltsfoot, couch grass, chamomile grow. You can determine the acidity and the trees growing nearby. Alder - acidic soil, birch, linden, hazel - neutral.
      And my friend uses this method. He buys indicator (litmus) paper and takes 3-4 samples of the earth at different ends of the site (from the depth of the shovel bayonet). She moistens each sample with water (but not tap water!), Attaches a piece of paper and monitors the color. If the paper turns red - the soil is strongly acidic, if it turns pink - medium acidic, if it turns yellow - slightly acidic, if it turns greenish-blue - the soil is close to neutral, blue - the soil is neutral. You need to repeat this procedure annually, since the acidity of the soil can change in one direction or another, depending on what you “feed” it with. Mineral fertilizers and mulch increase acidity, while liming, on the contrary, lowers it.

      By the way, lime materials, like all fertilizers, are better to apply in small doses every year than to swell a lot at once for several years. They can be introduced after sifting, and only during autumn digging at the rate of 100-400 g per 1 sq. m, depending on the acidity of the soil. You can replace lime with chalk, dolomite flour, ash. More ash will be needed, especially for cabbage, onions, beets, peppers, cucumbers, lettuce. But tomatoes, rhubarb, sorrel, parsley, pumpkin and zucchini more or less put up with excessive acidity.

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