How to deal with late blight of tomatoes in the garden - my proven remedies + expert comment
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IF THE TOMATOES IN THE GARDEN EACH YEAR HAVE PHYTOPHTORA
To be honest, it is almost impossible to defeat this formidable enemy of tomatoes, since late blight has already peeked at your site in vain, hoping in vain that he will leave. Another thing is not to allow at all. What I have been doing for many years, and I want to share my methods with you
KEEP TOMATOES FROM MOISTURE
The climate near Moscow, where we live, is becoming increasingly unstable and unpredictable, so I had to refuse to grow tomatoes just in the open ground. We have good tall greenhouses on arcs and a reinforced film of 120 g / m2, which I cover my tomatoes with.
Why film? It is quite dense, transmits light well, keeps heat. We don’t use covering non-woven material on tomatoes, it passes moisture well, and to choose the front or the wrong side in order to avoid moisture we do not need, frankly, laziness.
Yes, lutrasil makes it possible to ventilate the plantings, but if the site is small and there is no greenhouse, then tomatoes, in my opinion, are best grown in a film greenhouse with open ends. Through them, the plants are well ventilated, remaining absolutely dry.
If the weather is sunny and hot, we keep our greenhouses open all day. But at night in any weather, even the warmest, we close completely.
My tomatoes are surprisingly dry, and after opening the greenhouse in the morning they enjoy breathing fresh air, shaking in the wind, pollinating, tying the fruits.
If during the day you are away at the cottage, and the weather is about to change, then the greenhouse should be kept closed, leaving the ends open. Under the reinforced film, nothing burns, and you don’t need to worry about your favorites, but this will not hurt in case of expected heavy rains.
After transplanting seedlings into the ground, at the very beginning of growth, ugly, brown, brown spots appear on tomato leaves. They can bring an unenlightened summer resident to hysteria: is it a late blight? No. not late blight. This is cladosporiosis. If this happens to me, I immediately spray with Ordan. Yes, copper is present in it, but the growth of tomatoes has just begun, there is a lot of time before ripening. Reception will be effective, the disease will go away, and you will forget about copper.
See also: Tomatoes got late blight - to remove leaves or not?
SPRAY TOMATOES WITH BIOLOGICAL PRODUCTS
I regularly spray my tomatoes with the Zashlon biological product at intervals of 5-7 days. And during the season, he will always alternate it with the Epin-Extra and Zircon preparations. I add “Tsitovit” to the same sprayer - all according to the instructions.
These are anti-stress remedies for tomatoes that support their health. Moreover, we eat tomatoes literally the day after processing.
Even if your tomatoes are green, healthy, still do not be lazy to spray them in dry, calm weather or just in the evening, when the wind usually dies. Of course, observing the time interval.
SPRAY AND PAMPER TOMATOES WITH IODINE KEPHERS
I spray my tomatoes and kefir with iodine. So, as a pleasant pampering for pets. On a bucket of warm water is 1 liter of any kefir and drops of 30-40 iodine. And I just slam the plants with a broom. This milky spirit of late blight does not tolerate, but, again, until it has time to settle on branches. Kefir will not save later.
I do not use copper. This heavy artillery simply does not reach. What kind of Bordeaux mixture or “Hom” can be here if the fruits ripen with might and main!
MOST IMPORTANT TO FIGHT WITH PHYTOPHTOR HER - DO NOT MISS
They may object to me, they say, in small areas and work is not troublesome, but if there are 100-200 bushes of tomatoes? Run with a sprayer. Yes, the volume of work is increasing significantly. But after planting 200 bushes, summer residents measured their strength that they would have to take care of all this economy.
I noticed that some gardeners take a sprayer only if they notice suspicious spots on the leaves of their tomatoes. And at the first signs phytophthora beat it with copper sulphate, and with the same Hom ”, Abiga-Peak, with a Bordeaux mixture. But it’s already too late, and you can’t do without losses. And the unlucky summer resident begins to read that it is better to buy tomatoes on the market, because late blight cannot be defeated. But all you need to understand: this formidable mushroom disease can simply not be allowed into your garden. You will be late, miss - and the forces in the fight against it may turn out to be unequal.
BOBBLE
I also had errors. Once upon the advice of a neighbor and by my own stupidity, I cut off a lot of leaves on tomatoes, but a competent gardener on the tops of the leaves never picks. At that time I didn’t have shelter, and at night there was heavy rain. And exactly one day later, "Madame Fitoftor" began to absorb leaves and fruits. It was not possible to save the harvest ...
COMMENTS SPECIALIST
Askar Akhatov, a leading specialist in plant protection:
- The summer resident generally gives sound recommendations. However, it is more effective if iodine and kefir are replaced with whey. And if you want to use iodine, then just add 3-4 drops of iodine to a bucket of water. But this remedy helps mainly from viruses and powdery mildew, and not from late blight.
A summer resident sprinkles plants every 5-7 days, quite often. Since we are talking about biological products, the interval is acceptable. Only need to be processed early in the morning or late in the evening so that the plants have time to dry.
I would add to preventive measures: do not plant tomatoes near potatoes.
© Author: Larisa Kornilova
See also: Phytophthora prevention - agronomist tips
PHYTOPHORIS ON TOMATOES - WHAT TO DO? VIDEO
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Late blight raged last year. Is there a defense against this scourge?
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It is noticed that an excess of nitrogen provokes the occurrence of diseases (including phytophthora), but with a sufficient amount of potassium available to plants in the soil, diseases
develop much weaker. At home, I conduct an experiment: for the second year, starting from the end of June, I use biofungicides (they act only prophylactically, when symptoms appear, it is too late to start spraying) and I feed potatoes and tomatoes with potassium monophosphate. Result: last year, when everything turned black in the neighbors, single leaves on the potatoes suffered, and the disease was contained for a long time. The tubers were excellent, they were not sick. But a week before harvesting, I mowed and burned all the tops. Tomatoes also bore well, cut off single affected leaves, there were no signs of disease on the fruits. This year there is no late blight, the plants are healthy.
For the chemical protection of plants from late blight and alternaria in personal subsidiary plots, the drug shows high efficiency. cymoxanil and famoxadone. It has a contact and systemic effect and fights the disease, even if the first symptoms appear. So far, there are no resistant strains to this drug, and to prevent the emergence of resistance, it is advisable to alternate it with drugs of other chemical classes.
R. LEVADIN, agronomist
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HOW DO I FIGHT WITH FIT0FTORO3OM
Coniferous broth. Mix a liter jar of pine needles (spruce or pine) with 0 l of water, 5 g of laundry soap. Boil for 30 minutes, cool and strain through cheesecloth. Dilute with water in a ratio of 5: 1. Use immediately.
Nettle infusion. Chop! kg of fresh nettle, add 3 l of water. Stir, insist day. Add 30 g of grated laundry soap, mix and strain.
Mix 0 kg of ash and 5 liters of water, boil for 3 minutes. Cool, add water to get 30 l and 10 g of grated soap.
Mix 2 liters of milk or whey, add 1 tbsp. sugar and 10 liters of water. Mix.
I use these means myself, they are without chemistry, therefore they are harmless.