Rules for growing beets - the technology of sowing, care and harvesting
Contents ✓
- ✓ WHAT ARE THE BIOLOGICAL DIFFERENCES OF BEET?
- ✓ SOIL PREPARATION AND BEET PLANTING REGULATIONS
- ✓ RULES FOR PREPARATION AND SOWING OF BEET SEEDS
- ✓ RULES FOR CARING FOR BEET SEEDS?
- ✓ BEET CLEANING RULES
- ✓ BEET PEST AND CONTROL MEASURES
- ✓ BEET DISEASES AND MEASURES
- ✓ BEET GROWING - PLANTING AND CARE, TIPS AND FEEDBACK
- ✓ RULES FOR BEET GROWING - VIDEO
TECHNOLOGY OF BEET GROWING - TIPS K.S.KH. SCIENCE
WHAT ARE THE BIOLOGICAL DIFFERENCES OF BEET?
Beetroot is a biennial plant. In the first year, it forms a rosette of leaves and root crops; in the second season, a planted root crop throws an arrow that blooms and gives seeds.
Cross-pollinated plants.
The vegetative period in the first year of life is 120-150 days, in the second - 100-115 days. The plant is a long day. Demanding on light intensity. In the first period of growth, before root formation begins, it grows better at a temperature of + 15 ... + 18 degrees. The plant is hygrophilous. It is especially demanding on moisture during the period of seed germination and during the development of the leaf surface.
FACT: Root beetroot rich in carbohydrates, proteins, mineral salts. ALSO CONTAIN USEFUL ORGANIC ACIDS AND VITAMINS. Beetroot activates digestion and metabolism. HER JUICE REDUCES BLOOD PRESSURE. THE PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACTIVE SUBSTANCE BETANINE IS AVAILABLE IN IT. It CONTAINS THE DEVELOPMENT OF MALIGNANT TUMORS.
WHAT ARE THE FEATURES AND RULES FOR BEET GROWING?
Beetroot grows poorly on acidic, swampy podzolic soils, as well as on clay, poor in organic matter. It is better to grow after cabbage, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes. Root crops (carrots, turnips, rutabaga, parsnips, celery, etc.) as predecessors for table beets are not suitable, because they have common diseases and pests.
SOIL PREPARATION AND BEET PLANTING REGULATIONS
The plot intended for growing beets is fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers in autumn. From organic the best is rotted manure (humus). It is introduced at the rate of 4-5 kg (half a bucket) per 1 sq.m with the addition of 25 g (match box) of superphosphate and potassium salt. Spreading fertilizers evenly, they are embedded in the soil.
The site is dug up to a depth of 18-20 cm. In the spring, again dug up and make nitrogen fertilizers.
RULES FOR PREPARATION AND SOWING OF BEET SEEDS
Beet sprouts usually appear 8-12 days after sowing seeds. To speed up the process, soak the seeds in water. To do this, they are poured into a bag of rare cloth and immersed in clean water for 1,5-2 days.
In the morning and evening, water should be changed. After soaking, the seeds are scattered with a thin layer on paper, covered with burlap and kept at a temperature of + 18 ... + 20 degrees until single sprouts appear. Then they are dried to flowability and sown (1-1,2 g of seeds per 1 square meter). In the middle zone - when the temperature of the soil at a depth of 5-6 cm reaches +6 ... + 8 degrees. You need to finish sowing before May 10-15.
TIP: In lowland areas, beets are best grown on elevated beds 1-1,2 m wide and 12-15 cm high. After sowing seeds, the soil should be rolled up, which will accelerate the emergence of seedlings.
We also recommend reading: Growing and caring for beets - the best advice
RULES FOR CARING FOR BEET SEEDS?
The first time the aisles are loosened, usually 3-4 days after emergence. Then this agropriem is repeated at least 5 times approximately every 10-12 days.
TIP: Loosening the soil is especially necessary after rain and watering. In dry weather, water the beets every 8-10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters of water per 1 sq.m.
After loosening, the beets quickly start to grow and after a few days form the first true leaves. At this time, crops need to be thinned. When 2-3 true leaves appear, it is necessary to carry out final thinning, leaving only well-developed plants at a distance of 6-8 cm from each other. In order not to damage the root system of the plants left, do not pull out the ones you remove, but pluck them at the soil level.
After the second thinning, feed the plants with a urea solution at the rate of 12-15 g per 10 liters of water. After 15-20 days - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (superphosphate mixed with potassium salt (1: 1) at the rate of 15 g per 1 sq. M).
BEET CLEANING RULES
Beets are harvested before the onset of frost. Even slight freezing of root crops makes them unsuitable for long-term storage. During harvesting, the leaves are cut, leaving stalks 0,5-1 cm long. It is best to store beets in a basement or cellar, stacked in piles and sprinkled with sand. The optimum storage temperature is + 1 ... + 2 degrees, with a relative humidity of 85-95%.
COUNCIL
If the air humidity in the basement or cellar is the norm, you can not layered beet piles with sand.
RULES FOR PROTECTING BEET FROM PESTS AND DISEASES
Among pests, fleas, carnivores, beet mining flies, beet aphids, as well as various polyphagous pests cause the greatest harm to beetroot.
We also recommend reading: My secret to planting beets - sharing experience
BEET PEST AND CONTROL MEASURES
Beet Fleas (small black jumping bugs with a greenish tint) can seriously damage beets only in years with a dry spring. In ordinary years, the number of seedlings damaged by fleas is small (up to 10%).
Dusting plants with tobacco dust or ash.
Beet mining fly.
Females (ash-gray insects with a dark longitudinal strip on the abdomen) lay eggs on the underside of beet leaves and some other plants (quinoa, bleached). After 3-6 days, small larvae emerge from the eggs and immediately penetrate the flesh of the leaves, eating cavities in them. The upper skin of the leaf in places of damage lags behind and is covered with vesicular brownish swellings. Damaged leaves turn brown and dry after a while.
Deep plowing of the soil. With the mass appearance of flies - spraying with insecticides (according to instructions).
Aphids - wingless shallow (about 2 mm) a black matte insect that damages beets, carrots, rhubarb, asparagus and some other crops, sucking juice from them. Damaged leaves curl.
The same as against cabbage aphids.
BEET DISEASES AND MEASURES
Beet tail rot.
The disease manifests itself when growing beets on waterlogged soil with a lack of phosphorus. It can also appear during the period of winter storage - the lower part of the root crop withers, dries and rots.
Frequent loosening of the soil, the application of phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
Beet core rot.
The disease manifests itself with a lack of boron in the soil. Dry brown spots appear on the leaves. Conidia, getting on the head of the root crop, infect it. Rotting occurs during storage of root crops.
When feeding with phosphorus and potassium, boron or borax (7-9 g per 10 sq. M) is added for beet crops.
destroyed.
The disease manifests itself in the form of ulcers on the upper part of root crops. Their nutritional value does not decrease, but the unattractive appearance makes them use only for livestock feed.
Observe crop rotation and do not grow beets after potatoes.
BEET GROWING - PLANTING AND CARE, TIPS AND FEEDBACK
WHAT IS BEET USEFUL FOR?
Organic sodium is a powerful solvent and neutralizer of toxic substances contained in food processing products. Its brother is sodium chloride, without which we cannot imagine our food, is not useful, but in large quantities is harmful to chemical processes in the human body.
There was a time…
Actually, I didn’t think about writing about beets, but recently I went to the supermarket, and the thought of writing about it doesn’t leave me alone, I can’t even sleep.
What did I see in the store? And I saw how a young girl bought three large bags of beets. This means that not all modern youth are eating pizzas and hamburgers, some prefer healthy food: vegetables, fruits, herbs. It even made me happy.
Let's remember the Soviet Union. The state was responsible for feeding the population, i.e. there were catering canteens: factory, student, city, etc. And we all remember that these canteens served salads from cabbage, boiled beets and vinaigrette for a few kopecks. The prices were more than affordable, which means that the entire population of the country consumed beets almost daily. I am far from catering, so I don’t know if it was the order of the government or the canteens themselves included vegetable salads in the menu - the main thing is that the state cared about people's health.
Now we are on our own, especially adolescents and young people. The bulk of our children eat fast food, and only farmers, gardeners and gardeners can provide their families with high-quality natural products. Therefore, I want to appeal to those who consider beets to be a secondary vegetable.
Beets are not just an addition to potatoes and cucumbers! It takes place, if not higher than the second bread, then at the level of it, for sure.
Let's remember human physiology. Everyone knows that our body has the main "filter" - the liver through which blood passes. It requires a large amount of organic sodium to run smoothly and efficiently. No, not sodium chloride, which we get by adding salt to food, but organic sodium, which is found in vegetables, fruits and herbs.
If the liver is depleted of sodium reserves, it cannot properly purify the blood, and harmful substances are carried throughout the body, weakening it and causing disease. A lack of organic sodium makes itself felt by intense thirst, fatigue, spasms (cramps) of the fingers and calf muscles.
The best sources of organic sodium are garlic, celery, zucchini, peas, potatoes, carrots, apricots, tomatoes, buckwheat, apples, oats, and black currants. But the queen in this regard is the red beet!
Many people consider it an additional crop and sow a small bed, especially without choosing varieties. Yes, it often happens that we are chasing something new, exotic, not noticing the real queen under our feet. I apologize to those who appreciate this vegetable: maybe I shouldn't think that many treat beets without special attention. There are also smart people with great life experience among summer residents.
And now I will tell you how I grow this red girl in my dacha.
Many grow it through seedlings. I consider this a waste of labor. In our climate, red beets thrive when sown directly into the ground. I sow with dry seeds, I do not cultivate anything, but into damp ground.
I sow in two steps. The first time - early, when it is still chilly, not the most valuable seeds. Beets love warmth, but early crops feel fine, and I get an early harvest from them - there has never been a misfire. Then I spend the main crops in the warm ground after the birch has bloomed.
My main rule of thumb when dealing with beets is long rows, not beds. It should grow in one or two rows, so that nothing constrains it on the sides, then the foliage is lush and the roots are large.
I feed the plants only in the bagel phase, and then only water it abundantly and in no case add sodium chloride to the water, i.e. salt! Why do I need such beets? And to make it sweet, in a drought I sing it abundantly with water.
For top dressing, I throw weed weeds under the rows and add a little ash. I don't need huge roots, so I don't feed the beets with fertilizers - the main thing is that they are not wooden. I spray it with a biological product as needed, if I notice something. I thin out not too zealously: the beets get along well with the neighbors crowding nearby. In cooking, I use it as I grow up.
When forming root crops, I slightly poke the rows to hide them from hares: these are the main pests. For the same reason, I do not sow calendula. I buy high-quality beet seeds.
Once I sowed two types of hybrids and almost was left without a crop: all the roots were gnarled, crooked, not at all like the pictures that attracted me. It's good at least that I sow many different varieties.
My favorite variety is Nohovski, but it is not on sale, only in agricultural firms. I plan to grow seeds this season. Nochowski never let me down: all the roots are smooth, juicy, the skin is thin.
I also sow Delicacy, Red ball, Marmalade (vinaigrette beets). They all grow well with me. I usually clean it in late September - early October, depending on the weather, early in the morning. I do not keep it in the air for a long time so that the root crops do not wither. I store it in the cellar in nets.
We use beets as potatoes, i.e. regularly. Beetroot dishes are always on the table. I cook the famous herring under a fur coat twice a week. This is just a great combination - beets and herring. Well, Ukrainian borscht is when half a pot of beetroot!
So, my dear colleagues, if you have not yet appreciated all the dignity of the burgundy queen, immediately pay attention to her - and you will be in good health.
© Author: Galina LOGVINENKO.
PLANT BEETS IN BEDS WITH POTATOES - ADVICE
I want to share my experience - maybe it will come in handy for someone. For several years I have not been able to grow normal beets, and last season I decided not to plant them. But a neighbor brought in the remaining seedlings. There was no free space, but I felt sorry for the plant. And then I remembered: in the village, the mother-in-law never planted beets in the beds - only seedlings along the edge of the potatoes. Well, I dug small holes, watered and placed the seedlings. She did not add any fertilizers, she only poured water into the holes at the root. In general, I did not feed anything. After some time, I could no longer come to this bed. On the one hand, potato tops have grown, and on the other, calendula, which grows by self-sowing throughout the garden, is useful and very beautiful.
I dug potatoes in the last days of August, and what I saw shocked me!
Huge green beet leaves, and root vegetables are absolutely incredible!
Such a root vegetable can only be cooked in a 10-liter tank. I selected the smaller ones, and took the rest to the exhibition-fair and distributed them free to those who wish. My grades are Cylinder and Round.
I did the same with cucumbers, which I took off even in September in an open garden. I also grow tomatoes in a small greenhouse and in greenhouses under a film. Varieties: Bull heart (the fruit reaches a weight of 350 g), Black Prince, Black Moor and pink (I do not know the name). Under the film is Volgogradsky and the Dream of the Lazy One. Enough for three families. Everyone especially loves pink tomatoes.
Several years ago I read about the Chocolate Round Dance and became interested in it. Bushes are compact, very beautiful, with peppers. I grow it under the film. I stuff the peppers and freeze them in containers. And in winter it's such a pleasure - just defrost, and the dish is ready. Recommend.
A little more about onions. I buy sets. I think everyone knows how to plant. Immediately I mulch with grass or hay - he likes this kind of cover. I plant 1 kg, both green and onions are enough for the whole winter.
I love my garden. The flowers grow the most simple - calendula and marigolds. Several varieties of perennials, I will not list. There are apple trees, plums, thorns, which I adore, gooseberries, currants, strawberries.
About myself: I live in the north-east of the Leningrad region. I am 81 years old, a widow already 26 years old. I have a son, two granddaughters who help me, a great-granddaughter and a great-grandson-baby. I am a happy grandmother.
I wish all editors health, and the gardeners - the same and generous harvest!
© Author: Nelly Mishkicheva Leningrad Region
We also recommend reading: Beet cleaning
RULES FOR BEET GROWING - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- The most delicious beet varieties - my review, tips and reviews about the variety Bagryanaya
- Growing beets in the Kirov region - varieties and care
- When to remove sugar beet
- How to grow the earliest beets (Novosibirsk region)
- Winter beet planting - what are its huge advantages
- Growing beets in the Orenburg region - planting and care
- Beet Growing: 5 Rules + 7 Tips
- To make the beets sweet - planting and care
- Growing beets in the Leningrad region - planting and care
- Rules for growing beets - the technology of sowing, care and harvesting
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When I was still a schoolgirl, doctors diagnosed me with anemia. Parents tried many different ways - fed with liver, apples, pomegranates, special pills, but there was no improvement.
By chance, from a friend we learned about this method of treating anemia - vegetable juice from beets, carrots and radishes in a ratio of 1: 1: 1,
We tried it and surprisingly it worked. A week later she began to feel better, after a month the weakness and dizziness almost stopped.
Now, as soon as I feel that my health is deteriorating, I start treatment - I take a vegetable "cocktail" every day, 2 tbsp. spoons for a month.
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Why hasn't the beet been born?
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The question is not formulated very correctly. If the cause of the crop failure was the active shooting of plants, then there can be two reasons - poor-quality seeds or improper agricultural technology. As for the quality of seeds, the trend in recent years has been a decrease in their quality. I will not go into the reasons for this phenomenon now, but the fact remains.
However, the reason may be in mistakes made when growing a crop. Perhaps you have sown a variety or hybrid before winter that is not intended for this technology. Early flower frog formation can be caused by low temperatures after sowing in spring. Usually beets are sown at the same time as potatoes are planted. You can navigate by folk signs: by that time, a birch should give a sheet the size of a penny coin. This means that the soil has warmed up to 8-10 °.
If the problem is in the small size of root crops, then, most likely, mistakes in agricultural technology were the reason. Despite its unpretentiousness, beets prefer loose, fertile soil. In dense soil, it is difficult for a root crop to grow, and in this case, it is better to give preference to varieties whose roots protrude above the ground.
To give the necessary looseness when preparing the beds, not completely rotted compost is introduced. It works even better than sand. But there is no need to add manure, this increases the content of nitrates in the product.
In addition, beets prefer neutral pH values, and ash can and should be added when planting and feeding on acidic soils. Lack of nutrients and water can also lead to a significant decrease in yields. If you visit the dacha only on weekends and there is no opportunity to water regularly, the plantings need to be mulched. This will keep moisture in the soil.
Sometimes the problem is the thickening of the plants. 20 cm is left between the rows, and 7-10 cm between the plants in a row. Unlike carrots, beet seedlings tolerate transplanting well. This does not affect the size of the root crop if the root is straightened during planting.
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Beets have been missing for several years in a row. At first it grows, then its leaves wither and dry up (sometimes one at a time, sometimes 3-4 at once). There is no apparent reason. As a result, those roots that survive become "wood". Why is that?
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- Most likely, the plants die due to a disease - beet root. The root cause could be a prolonged cold spring, low fertility, heavy texture, soil prone to swimming and crust formation, excess or lack of moisture, high acidity, low-quality seeds. Young plants weakened by these factors easily infect pathogens, including fungi. When re-growing beets in one place, the root-eating pathogen can accumulate in the soil, so you need to alternate crops.
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Last year, I sowed beetroot seeds at different times. Those plants, the seeds of which were sown in May, went to the arrow. Why?
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- Beetroot is a biennial plant. In the first year, it forms leaves and a root crop. In the second year, it forms a flower arrow and gives seeds, after which the plant dies. To form an arrow, beets need to go through the vernalization process (storage at a temperature of about +5 degrees). With a two-year cycle of plant development, this process takes place during winter storage. But vernalization can also take place in the first year, when the seeds are under the influence of a low positive temperature for a long period.
With early sowing in cold soil, the seeds do not germinate for a long time, and in this case, beets can be forged even in the first year, bypassing the stage of root crop formation. Therefore, beet seeds must be sown when the soil temperature rises to +8 degrees, at a depth of 3-5 cm. If you need to sow them early or even before winter, use varieties resistant to flowering (for example, Podzimnyaya474).
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More recently, beet tops have started to grow, and have already begun to turn yellow. What can be wrong?
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In the initial period, beets actively build up their vegetative mass, for which they require a lot of nitrogen. If it is in short supply, the leaves become smaller and their tips turn yellow. In the case when this color extends to the entire leaf blade, we can talk about chlorosis due to a lack of iron.
The problem is solved by top dressing with complex fertilizers with the presence of nitrogen and iron.
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I would like to ask a question about growing beets. Since my site is small, all plantings are mixed. Beets grow in two beds at once: on one - along with zucchini, in one line from the edge of them, on the other - with garlic in two rows. And last year, several root crops from among those that grew on the first bed, for some reason, cracked, and the cracks did not go in straight lines, but broken, with such teeth. I had to throw these beets into the compost. Well, at least not all of them turned out to be like that. Why did they crack? What did they lack? Or maybe, on the contrary, there was a surplus in something?
In principle, I did not feed this beets with anything on purpose, I only treated them to zucchini. Maybe, of course, in general I am doing something wrong with beets ... But what exactly? The neighbors, by the way, think that these are traces of the work of a rodent living underground. But this option seems very dubious to me. Or not?
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Beets are covered with large ulcers protruding 2 mm above the surface of the root crop, which resembles a scab. What is this disease? How to avoid it this year?
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- Most likely, this is a pimply scab. Usually, at first, growths-warts are formed on the surface of the root crop, which after a while turn into a kind of small dark brown, sometimes almost black ulcers.
Disease is caused by bacteria contained in the soil, and pimply scab develops most actively in warm and dry weather. The introduction of large doses of organic matter or lime also contributes to the spread of the disease.
Precautions are the mandatory observance of crop rotation, as well as the introduction of organic fertilizers not for beets, but for the predecessor crop.
At the very beginning of the development of the disease, root crops can be eaten, the main thing is to peel off the skin. With a strong defeat of beets with pimple scab, it cannot be eaten.
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Because of self-isolation, my father had to sow beets, and he had never done sowing before. I planted it when the time came, but for some reason almost 30% of the plants gave flower arrows. Was there a sowing error?
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Under normal conditions, in the year of sowing, flowering shoots are not formed in beets. However, if plants go through a full development cycle in one year, begin to bloom and bear fruit, then there may be several reasons. And they are not related to the sowing technology. Firstly, in this way a genetic predisposition to "flower" can be manifested, that is, the quality of the seeds was not the best. Secondly, external factors could have acted, in particular, low air and soil temperatures in the early stages of plant development. The most vulnerable phase is the formation of 2-4 leaves. Thus, prolonged cold weather could cause bloom. Especially if the beets were planted in dense, unstructured soil and received unbalanced mineral nutrition.
O. VLASIEVA, agronomist
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Black circles appeared on the beet leaves (light inside). They grow quickly - and the leaves darken, turn red and dry out.
Root crops are not damaged. I don’t make any additional fertilizing. Several years ago there was the same problem - then there was no harvest at all, all the plants died. What is it? How to fight?
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- Most likely, we are talking about the beet fomoza. In summer, the disease manifests itself on the leaves, and in winter - in the form of black dense spots inside the root crop. One of the key causes of phomosis is the lack of boron in the soil.
To prevent the beets from getting sick in the future, strictly adhere to the rules of crop rotation. Immediately after sprouting, and then twice more with an interval of 30 days, feed the plants with a solution of boric acid (dilute 1/3 tsp of the powder in 10 liters of water, water at the root at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter). Keep in mind that the disease spreads especially actively in acidified areas, so in the fall, add lime or dolomite flour (half a liter jar per 1 square meter).
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I have not been growing beets for the first year. The beets are tasty, but with a beard: a sponge grows in the root crop (many thin roots). Why is this happening? Something missing beets? How to avoid this?
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Beets have a rooted root system, but in case of damage to the main root, numerous lateral roots (beard) are formed. In a sense, the rod root system is transformed into a fibrous one. Damage to the main root most often occurs during plant transplantation when growing beets with seedlings, when the root bends or breaks when not handled properly. When sowing beets in the open ground, many gardeners thicken the crops, and when thinning, the pulled out young plants are transplanted to a new place. A clipping of the main root occurs, and such a beetroot grows with a beard. To avoid this, it is better to plant beets immediately at an optimum distance for the species, and when growing through seedlings, be careful about the root system, try not to damage it during transplantation.