Annabelle tree hydrangea - my description of planting and care
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HYDROENSIA ANNABEL - LANDING AND CARE FOR BEGINNERS
START GROWING HYDENSIAS WITH ANNABELLE!
The Annabelle tree hydrangea can often be seen in parks and gardens. It is very effective both in single and group plantings, great for creating hedges. I have this variety and I can assure you that it is great for beginner gardeners.
For planting Annabelle, I chose an open, but with a slight penumbra, a site protected from the winds on the southeast side, so that the too bright midday sun would not burn the plant.
TREE HYDROANGIA does not tolerate dryness, so I bought its seedling in a container with soil. If you buy seedlings with an open root system, then I advise you to soak them for several hours in an aqueous solution of a root formation stimulator before planting.
Hydrangea prefers well-moistened, moisture-permeable, loose, light, drained, fertile soil with medium or slightly acid reaction. If your soil is alkaline, then I recommend adding peat when planting. I don’t add ash, lime and chalk to the soil4 because they deoxidize the soil, and hydrangeas need an acidic environment.
Previously, in 2 weeks, I prepared a landing pit about 40 cm deep and about 60 cm wide, on the bottom of which I laid drainage from crushed stone so that there was no stagnant water. Then I filled it with a mixture of leafy soil, high-moor peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1 with the addition of 40 g of universal mineral fertilizer. I shortened the long shoots of the seedling, leaving 3 pairs of buds on each. It is important to pay attention to the root system, it must be healthy, without mold and rot. Since the roots of the hydrangea do not lie deep, the root collar was not deepened during planting, it was placed at the level of the soil. This plant loves space, so I planted it at a fairly remote distance from other shrubs and trees, otherwise they will take most of the moisture and nutrients, and the hydrangea will suffer. After planting, the seedling was well watered and the near-trunk circle was mulched with peat. It is also useful to mulch with coniferous litter so that water evaporates less and the earth retains moisture longer.
WATERING I spend regularly in the morning or in the evening with water standing in the sun under the root. Hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so it is advisable to constantly keep the soil moist, avoiding drying out, but it also cannot be heavily flooded.
Periodically I add about 1 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water to the water. This helps to protect against diseases, shoots become stronger, and flowering is longer. After watering, I carefully loosen the soil, trying not to touch the roots, and remove the weeds.
CUTTING HYDROANGIA is necessary to maintain a neat appearance of plants, the formation of larger, beautiful inflorescences, as well as to prevent diseases and pests.
I started pruning Annabelle in the 3rd year after planting. At first, the bush was cut off by 2/3, as a result, the inflorescences became larger, there were not very many of them, but it was necessary to install supports, because after the rain the stems sank strongly to the ground under the weight of the flowers. The following spring, the plant was pruned slightly, leaving higher shoots, as a result, a lot of inflorescences formed, they kept well on the branches, looked neat, but were smaller than when they were first cut. A year later, on the basis of my previous experiments, I decided to carry out a combined pruning: I shortened the shoots to different heights (the older ones are lower and the young ones are higher). As a result, inflorescences of various sizes appeared on hydrangeas - both large and not very large. The last cut is my favorite. I think that it is best suited for tree-like hydrangeas: the inflorescences bloom at different times, and the entire shrub is strewn with flowers of various sizes, becoming more interesting and elegant from this.
I do all the main types of pruning in early spring, before the buds awaken and sap flow begins, and in the fall I cut off only dry inflorescences from hydrangeas. After 4-5 years, I do a cardinal pruning on a stump, cutting off all branches to a height of 15-20 cm. Hydrangea grows young shoots well, which begin to grow in May, and by the end of June the bush is already becoming fluffy.
SHELTER WILL NOT INTERFERE
Annabelle grows rapidly, in 3 years it turns into a luxurious adult bush, and over time its winter hardiness increases, so I only spud adult plants with peat for the winter. However, young bushes can freeze. In the first two years, it is advisable to cover the near-trunk circle with spruce branches, and the aerial part of the plant with non-woven material.
Tree-like hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the current year, even if the ends of its branches freeze a little, then this is not scary, they quickly recover, and flowering does not become weaker.
I started to apply FEEDING only in the second year, since my soil was well fertilized when planting. Before applying them, I must water the hydrangea with plain water in order to avoid burns and for better absorption of nutrients.
In early spring, I apply urea and potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon of each fertilizer per 10 liters of water), pour 5 liters of solution under each adult shrub. You can also use top dressing with nettle infusion. To do this, I fill the barrel halfway with chopped nettles, fill it with water and leave it to ferment for a week in a warm place, periodically stirring the contents. I dilute the infusion with clean water 1:10 and water the hydrangea with it. So that the acidity of the soil does not decrease due to organic fertilizers, I feed the hydrangea with sour milk or kefir (1 liter per 10 liters of water) or acidify the soil with iron sulfate (10 g per 10 liters of water). I do each of the top dressings not earlier than 2, 5-3 weeks after the previous one.
During the period of bud formation, I use superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Starting from the second half of summer, I do not use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, so that they do not lead to excessive growth of green shoots, the appearance of diseases and a decrease in winter hardiness. In early September, for better preparation of hydrangeas for winter, I apply potash-phosphorus fertilizers: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per 10 liters of water.
DISEASES AND PESTS in tree hydrangea appear mainly due to high humidity, sudden changes in temperature and improper care. If the acidity of the soil decreases greatly, then chlorosis may occur, so I don’t use a lot of organic fertilizers, and I don’t use wood ash, lime at all for top dressing - shrubs can get powdery mildew, rot, rust, fusarium. Heavily affected parts of plants are best destroyed. In the fight against fungal diseases, fungicidal preparations help well.
Of the pests, hydrangeas can be attacked by aphids, spider mites, slugs. Against aphids and spider mites I use soapy and garlic solutions, alternating them. If there are a lot of pests, then it is better to use insecticidal preparations, against slugs - special means based on metaldehyde.
PRODUCTION Annabelle, like all tree-like hydrangeas, can be spring and summer cuttings, layering, dividing the bush or seeds. Seed propagation is a laborious and unreliable method; varietal characteristics may not be preserved. I prefer to get new plants from green summer cuttings and layering.
In early July, I cut several cuttings about 10 cm long with two internodes from the shoots of this year. I remove the lower leaves, and cut the top two in half to reduce moisture evaporation. I process the cuttings with a root formation stimulator, and then plant them to a depth of about 3-4 cm in a container with small holes, on the bottom of which I put drainage, and then a mixture of leafy soil, peat and sand. I spray the cuttings with water, cover with plastic bottles, shade. I water regularly, keeping the soil moist, ventilate, removing the bottles every day for a few minutes so that there is no rotting. After about a month, roots and green leaves are formed, then I open the plants and plant them in the ground by the end of August. For the winter, young hydrangeas must be mulched with dry peat, spruce branches, and covered with non-woven material. They usually bloom in the 2-3rd year.
For propagation by layering in the spring, I bend the annual shoots of an adult plant to the ground and put it in dug grooves about 10 cm deep so that part of the branch with buds is underground. I fix the branch with metal brackets to the soil, then I bury the recess. The part of the shoot with the top should be outside. During the season, I keep the soil moist, loosen. I cover young plants for the winter, and next spring I separate them from an adult shrub and transplant them together with part of the earth to a permanent place.
Adult hydrangea bushes can be divided in spring and autumn, but this must be done so that each new plant has at least 2-3 renewal buds. If they are planted in the spring, then in the fall they usually take root well.
Annabelle tolerates spring and autumn transplants well, the main thing is to dig her out with a clod of earth. But it is better, of course, to immediately choose the right place to land. Indeed, with good care in one place, it can grow for many years.
© Author: S. Martynov, Eagle
FEATURES OF CARING FOR AN ANABEL ANTIQUE HYDROCENCY
Secrets cultivation hydrangea annabelle experienced florist Victor DNEPROV shares.
A few years ago, he planted a couple of tiny bushes in his garden. Now they have turned into lushly blooming "ladies" 1,3-1,5 m high, with a crown coverage of up to 3 m.
I bought seedlings in the spring and in May, as soon as the ground was warm enough, I started planting. The place was chosen near the house, where the soft morning sun, a light afternoon shadow and reliable protection from the wind (wall).
Since hydrangea loves slightly acidic soil, he added ready-made soil for azaleas, spiced with potassium sulfate and superphosphate (20 g and 15 g, respectively) to the planting pits. Planting slightly mulched with coniferous litter (can be transient peat).
I water regularly and abundantly - once a week (the first year I used about a bucket of water, in the following - 15-20 liters per bush). Moreover, every 3 weeks I acidify the water with citric acid (1 tsp per bucket).
From the second season of life, in early spring I feed the plant with full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions), in May - with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, so that the shoots grow stronger and more flexible.
During budding, I bring in phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (in granules or powder: 60 g of superphosphate + 45 g of potassium sulfate / sq.m), which I dilute before watering in a bucket of water.
So that the color of flowering “hats” is bright and they please our family longer, I additionally treat bushes with Agricola solution with humates and microelements (1 tbsp / 10 l of water; you can use Kemira in the same dosage).
As a result, every summer, the inflorescences of my beauties reach a diameter of 20-25 cm. At first they seem to plunge into a gentle “light green coolness”, then they magically fill with intense whiteness and get a creamy shade closer to the end of flowering.
IMPORTANT ABOUT THE MULCH!
For additional nutrition after flowering, I bring a bucket of rotted compost under each bush and slightly loosen the soil in the trunk circle.
In early spring, I mulch humus mixed with river sand and peat chips (1: 1: 1).
In the summer, I renew the mulch layer (it is important to retain moisture in the soil longer and not let the roots overheat in the heat!), Using wood sawdust or mowed grass - 1 bucket for a bush or 5 cm layer is enough (but there is one condition - this coating should not touch root necks of shoots).
HYRENCY TREE ANNABEL - CUTTING AND CARE. VIDEO
© Author: Victor DNEPROV
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Hortensia Brtschneider is the most winter-hardy and unpretentious of all its relatives. It grows up to 3-4 m in height and almost the same in width. It blooms all summer, by the end of July the inflorescences become pinkish.
Her features
It has strong, slender shoots, so you don't have to tie it up. Does not give excessive growth.
Withstands frosts up to - 35 degrees. Even if it freezes, it quickly recovers in the spring. I did not notice this on my copy of the hydrangea - it grows near the southern wall of the building.
Does not lose its decorative effect in drought.
With closed roots, this young lady can be planted during the season, with open roots - in September-October. The place is suitable and semi-shady, but in the sun it blooms more abundantly.
Over time, the roots of the plant become bare - you need to pour a mixture of peat and garden soil under the bush (1: 1).
In late August-early September I add Fertika Autumn or superphosphate fertilizer to the trunk circle, and urea in the spring (over the snow).
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Newly acquired panicle hydrangea bushes are planted in open ground in the first half of May, as soon as the soil warms up well, so that the seedlings have time to take root well before winter arrives.
I choose semi-shaded, sheltered from the wind places for beauties. In the open sun, the growth of a shrub can slow down, and the flowers become smaller. I prepare the landing pit according to the size of the root system of the seedling, fill it with a mixture of turf, leafy soil, peat and sand, taken in equal parts. I add 1 tbsp. superphosphate, 30 g each of potassium sulfate and ammonium sulfate. When planting, I don’t deepen the root neck. Each seedling is abundantly watered and mulch trunks circles peat.
Further care consists in weeding, regular watering with soft (preferably rain) water. Hydrangea does not tolerate drought.