9 Review (s)

  1. Natalia KARKACHEVA, Art. Taman, Krasnodar Territory

    I plant gladioli corms when the soil temperature at a depth of 12 cm is not lower than +8 degrees, (in our region, no later than the beginning of May). Otherwise, they take root poorly, sprout poorly. To speed up the heating of the soil in a cold spring, I cover the site of the future planting with a film. The day before, I spill the garden with metronidazole (10 tablets / 10 l of water). I sprinkle nitroammophoska at the bottom of the landing grooves (according to the instructions).

    I treat gladioli from diseases and pests in advance with any dressing drug. I spread the corms in a bath so that they do not come into contact with each other, soak them for 20 minutes, dry them.
    I plant in rows, deepening each bulb by at least 10 cm, sprinkle with wood ash, and then with soil. Along the planting, I make a special groove for irrigation: the water, spreading, does not wash out the roots.

  2. Alexander TRAFIMOV, x. Zakhopersky, Volgograd region

    I grow these flowers in the flowerbed in front of the house every year. They do not require special care.
    I start planting the corms when the leaves bloom on the birch. I make an infusion in advance: I grind dry bushes or marigold inflorescences specially left in the fall, put it in a plastic bucket and fill it with warm water. I leave it for two days. Then I soak the planting material in it overnight. I plant the bulbs in an open, sunny place in loose chernozem soil. Under the bottom of each I pour 3 tbsp. l. coarse sand. Planting depth is approximately 13-16 cm.
    I feed gladioli twice during the summer. The first time - when the third leaf appears, I add a solution of mineral fertilizers: 3 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate per bucket of water.
    The second feeding is carried out at the beginning of flowering with a solution of potassium sulfate and wood ash (50 g / 40 g / bucket of water).

    It is useful to water the gladioli with infusion of the herb tagetes during the extension of the peduncle and also when the first buds begin to open. As a result, the plants have improved immunity, and the flowering becomes brighter.
    For fungal diseases, spraying with a solution of baking soda (50 g / 10 l) is very helpful.

  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    If you need to quickly propagate a valuable variety of gladiolus, you need to put the bulb sideways or bottom up when planting - with such a planting, the number of children and replacement bulbs increases significantly. You can also pinch the middle bud on the corm - we get the same result.

  4. Elena Cheshko, Ust-Kamenogorsk, Kazakhstan

    I am a novice florist, this year I planted gladioli for the first time. Tell me when to dig them up.

    • OOO "Sad"

      Gladiolus is a thermophilic plant, so its bulbs must be removed from the ground before the onset of frost. For the middle lane, this time is late September - early October. Another important point: gladioli are removed after at least a month has passed since the end of flowering. The plant takes about 30-35 days to form a replacement corm and tuber (baby bulbs). Therefore, it is better to cut off the faded stems immediately from the bush so that
      the plant did not waste extra energy and nutrients - after flowering gladiolus should direct them to the formation of a corm. If you did not cut them off in time, then the digging time should be extended by about 2 weeks.

      It is also recommended to first dig out gladioli with dark shades of flowers (they have weaker immunity and insufficient protection against fungal diseases). Gladioli grown from baby bulbs are dug up last.
      The digging is carried out on a dry sunny day, preferably with a pitchfork (you do not need to pull the gladiolus by the stems), so as not to damage the tubers and not to lose the baby bulbs.

  5. Zinaida

    about pollination of gladioli.
    It’s not all about pollination, but about degeneration due to aging. The process caused by pollination ends in the fact that seeds are tied, which then need to be sown (this is already a selection, which is what respected breeders are doing to get new varieties), and the pollination process does not affect the corms. Therefore, gladioli can be stored and mixed without the slightest risk.
    Novice flower growers try to purchase corms as large as possible, but experienced flower growers know that medium and small ones, and even a baby, are much more valuable.

    Very large tubers sometimes show signs of degeneration in the first year. The size and color of the flowers change, as well as other characteristics of the variety.
    The old corm is considered to be a flat corm with a diameter significantly exceeding the height, and a wide, uneven bottom. It usually develops in the fourth to fifth year after flowering.

  6. Tatiana Konstantinovna LYAMTSEVA, Novosibirsk

    Is it possible to grow a full-fledged gladiolus bulb from a baby in just one year?

    • OOO "Sad"

      To do this, use the largest baby - about 1-1,5 cm in diameter. In April, take the babies and squeeze their sides with your fingers so that the shell cracks slightly. And soak the planting material for a day in a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate, then dip it for a couple of hours in a solution of Epin-extra (5 drops per 1 liter of water). Pour coarse river sand into a wide container with low edges and spread the children on its surface close to each other. Place in a bright place.

      When sprouts and a dense short beard of roots appear, place the children in separate cups. And after the threat of spring frosts has passed, transplant to a flower bed, where there is a lot of sun during the day. And although the plants will try to bloom, don't let them do it - remove the spikelet without damaging the leaves. And in the fall, dig out young bulbs about 2,5 cm in diameter and the same height. This will be the best planting material.

  7. A. KURDYAPIN, gladiolus grower. Moscow city

    About drying and storing gladioli
    I put the corms of gladioli in wooden boxes in one layer, bottom up, having previously covered the bottom with thick paper in 2 layers - so that the baby does not get enough sleep.
    I dry the planting material in two stages: 3-5 days at + 25-27 degrees, and then another month at 20-22 degrees.

    I keep it in the same boxes, and put the baby in paper or cloth bags. I transfer everything to the basement, where the temperature is + 4-6 degrees, and the humidity is 60-70%. I install it, raising it 20-30 cm above the floor - for free air access.


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