The main pests of strawberries and strawberries - photo, name, description and control measures
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WHO AND WHAT IS HARVESTING THE CROWN HARVEST
© Author: Nikolay Khromov k.s.kh. of sciences
Strawberries - one of the most widespread berry crops, its plantings are found starting from the Asian part of the country and reach the territories bordering Lake Baikal.
THE MUSIC ROSA
The first signs appear in the form of powdery coating on the surface of the leaves. They immediately stop their growth and bend up. Affected berries stop their development and gradually rot; the general plantation looks oppressed.
The fight against this disease should begin with the collection and burning of affected leaves and berries. Treatments with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (80-90 g per bucket of water) during budding and after harvesting also help. You can also use a solution of soda ash, a dose of -40 g per bucket of water, and a little laundry soap, about 20-30 g, can be added to this solution.
Gray Head
It leads to the fact that ripe berries completely rot, covered with moldy bloom. Initial control measures include the collection and destruction of affected berries. Before flowering, copper chloride is treated (12 g per bucket of water). You can also use 1% Bordeaux liquid.
BLACK ROT
The fruits rot, a moldy mass forms on them, which eventually acquires a gray color. Before flowering, plantations are treated with copper chloride (10 g per bucket of water). You can repeat the treatment after picking berries.
SPOT
It causes drilling, drying and falling of affected leaves, leading to an overall decrease in yield. To combat this disease should be by collecting and destroying the affected leaves. In case of severe damage, a three-fold treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid or copper chloride is carried out (25-30 g per bucket of water). The first treatment should be carried out at the time of exposure of the buds, and the second and third - a week later and after harvesting, respectively.
STRAWBERRY DOGBACK
The bugs feed on young leaves, actively eating holes in them. Females lay eggs in peduncles, gnawing them. Only one individual can destroy up to five dozen buds in a short period of time. Preventive measures include the collection and burning of plant debris. The treatment with simple infusion of wormwood, which should be carried out at the beginning of budding, also helps.
EARTHED TONGUE
Its larvae damage leaf blades, sucking juice out of them. The leaves are wrinkled, turn yellow before time, often dry and fall. Bushes sharply reduce growth activity, which leads to lower yields. Good results are obtained by thermal disinfection of seedlings, which should be carried out immediately before planting in open ground. In order to disinfect seedlings, it is necessary to place it in water with a temperature of 45 degrees for 10-15 minutes.
A positive effect can be achieved by double processing the entire plantation with a decoction of tomato tops. It is very simple to prepare it: boil enough green mass of about 1 kg, sufficiently collected in the fall, and boil for an hour in a bucket of water. Helps scare away a tick and an infusion of dandelion.
STRAWBERRY NEMATODE
Its vital activity leads to the fact that plants are lagging behind in development, leaf blades are deformed, become wrinkled and become very small. In the future, the petioles of the leaves swell a little. Crops begin to decline sharply, diseased plants eventually die.
When a nematode appears, the first thing to do is to remove and burn all diseased plants outside the site. The soil must be treated with bleach.
WIRE
Its larvae gnaw passages in the roots, as well as the aerial parts of plants. This leads to a weakening of growth and inhibition of the affected specimens, yields are sharply reduced. The use of traps made from pieces of potatoes, which are placed in a rag and tied to a stick, helps to combat wireworms. Usually a couple of days is enough for a few bugs to accumulate in a piece of potato. It is simply taken out of the site and burned.
ROLL
They live in too wet areas of the site, on thickened stands. Slugs damage berries by eating pulp. Slugs should be collected and removed from the site, dusting the aisles with copper sulfate or superphosphate. Dusting with quicklime also helps, preferably after rain twice a day.
See also: What are and how to deal with diseases and pests of strawberries and strawberries
STRAWBERRY DISEASES AND PESTS: VIDEO
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How to get rid of the strawberry mite? Tried chemo, didn't help.
N. Anisina Moscow Region
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You can try a gas burner. With its help, you need to completely burn out the entire plantation infected with a tick. They do this immediately after fruiting, but rather, without waiting for the last, smallest berries, mow all the leaves with a trimmer. They burn the soil not only in the rows, but also in the aisles. Then the plantation is watered abundantly.
In the future, water and feed the plants with mineral and organic fertilizers. By autumn, the bushes give new, completely clean leaves, lay flower buds and bear excellent fruit next summer.
It is more convenient to use burners for roofing work on a long handle. They are sold in hardware stores.
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If strawberries die, then there is nothing supernatural here. Judging by the description, strawberries are overwhelmed by the larvae of the May beetle (beetle), eating up the roots of plants. I also once faced a similar situation.
The garlic growing in a neighboring garden helped me to save the young bushes, which frightened off pests with its smell.
To have fewer larvae in the soil, first of all, when digging the earth, they must be selected by hand. Further, when planting (or in the event that they are already there), plant a clove of garlic between the bushes. If time permits, you can first sow the dug ground with mustard and, after loosening it thoroughly, plant young bushes. Watering with ammonia solutions affects the safety of the bushes from the beetles, there is also a different chemistry that is embedded in the soil.
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On our site, I grow strawberries not only on ordinary beds, but also on a pillar. This is very convenient, as it greatly facilitates the care of the crop. Strawberries receive favorable conditions for growth and development: better lighting and heating of the soil contribute to earlier ripening of berries, it does not need to fight for moisture and nutrients with other strawberry bushes located next to the beds, diseases of berries and damage by their pests are reduced.
The height of the wooden pillar that I dig into the ground is 1 m 80 cm. I fix plastic cans with a capacity of 2 to 3 m with wire around the circumference of the pillar, drilling holes in the pillar and in the cans. On od
Mr. Pillar I have up to 20 cans. After planting strawberries in cans, for better moisture conservation, I lay a plastic circle on top of the soil with a slot in the middle and a hole in the center.
Strawberries are responsive to top dressing with boric acid and potassium permanganate. To 10 l of water I add 1 g of boric acid and 1 g of potassium permanganate. Such top dressing significantly increases the yield. Large berries are obtained, there are no underdeveloped freaks. The taste of berries improves, their color becomes brighter.
After fruiting, I remove all the cans from the pillar and bury them in the ground on the site. In winter I cover them with snow up to 40 cm high.