- ✓ CHOOSE A PLACE FOR PLACING A PION
- ✓ PEOPLE COMPANIONS
- ✓ PREPARATION FOR LANDING
- ✓ NUTRITION SUBSTRATE
- ✓ DREAMY PION - CARE SECRETS
- ✓ TO COVER PEONY OR NO?
- ✓ FEEDING A TREE PEOPLE
- ✓ 5 WAYS OF REPRODUCTION OF A TREE PEONY
- ✓ Vaccination of a tree peony
- ✓ DREAMY PION - PROTECTION AGAINST DISEASES AND PESTS
- ✓ DREAMY PION - QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
- ✓ WATERING, FEEDING, CUTTING
- ✓ DREAMY PION - USEFUL PROPERTIES, RECIPES OF BREWS AND TINKS
- ✓ PERSONAL EXPERIENCE CARE OF A TREE PEONY
- ✓ Choose the varieties
- ✓ PION TREE - GROWING, LANDING AND CARE. FLOWER TIPS
- ✓ PEOPLE TREBLE - GROWING AND CARE. AGRICULTURAL EQUIPMENT ON VIDEO
Growing tree-like peonies - planting and care
To make these beauties comfortable in your garden, you need to plant the bushes correctly. And for the sake of annual lush flowering, think over a quality menu for them, learn the basics of pruning and preparing for wintering ... All the details are here.
CHOOSE A PLACE FOR PLACING A PION
Tree peonies are long-livers, in one place they can safely grow for more than fifty years! There is evidence that on the territory of a Buddhist monastery in China, the most "elderly" bush has already celebrated its 500th anniversary.
Plants love sunny areas, and even better - well-lit in the morning and afternoon, closed from drafts. Otherwise, during flowering, huge caps of flowers under a gust of wind may break. The wind is able to weaken the growth and laying of flower buds, and constant sunlight during the day shortens the flowering time of the bush, leading to the rapid withering of delicate petals. That is why, for example, in Japan, the most valuable varieties are specially protected from the sun with an umbrella or initially planted in light partial shade.
A large bush of a tree-like peony with large bright flowers and cut leaves looks very impressive in a group of several varieties or in the form of a tapeworm on the background of a coniferous lawn. It goes well with tulips in bright mixborder compositions.
PREPARATION FOR LANDING
The best time to plant is early spring or autumn (from mid-August to late September). Too late dates are bad for root development and further flowering.
Peonies grow in almost any soil, but still feel more comfortable on permeable loams. Damp, flooded by spring floods or summer rains places are not suitable for them.
The optimum pH of the soil is 6-6, 5. A slightly alkaline reaction is acceptable. On acidic soils, lime or dolomite flour (200-400 g / mXNUMX) must be added in advance.
The landing pit is prepared two to three weeks before planting, with a depth of about 50-70 cm and the same diameter, it can be slightly wider. Drainage is poured into the bottom (crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay layer with a layer of up to 10-20 cm), a little sand on top of it.
The best soil mixture is humus, peat, garden soil (1: 1: 1), which are first poured into a large container. If the area is clay, add 0-5 bucket of river sand, and 1-1, 1 buckets of clay on the sand. Bone meal (5-200 g), superphosphate (300-100 g) or granular complex chlorine-free fertilizers with macro- and microelements of prolonged action are also added (I use Kemira, Bazakot, etc., according to the instructions). All the ingredients are mixed well and poured into the pit so that a cone is formed, onto which the plant is planted together with a lump of earth, carefully spreading its roots and watered.
When the water is absorbed, the pit is sprinkled with a soil mixture and watered again. The root neck is placed at the level of the ground, and then lightly spud with soil or peat (3-5 cm). This will protect the peony from freezing even in harsh winters and at the same time allow it to grow faster and give new delenki.
© Author: Lyudmila MASTEROVA
DREAMY PION - CARE SECRETS
In the first year after planting, the tree-like, like all peonies, does not bloom, and its stems look sluggish.
Plants should be regularly and abundantly watered (every 2 weeks, 6-7 liters of water under the bush). In extreme heat — more often, in August, watering is gradually reduced and then completely stopped.
If possible, after watering within a radius of half a meter from the center of the bush, the soil is loosened, but not deeper than 5 cm, weeds are removed and mulched slightly with humus or compost.
As soon as the first bud appears, it is not necessary to cut it off (unlike grassy species). The very fact of its formation indicates a sufficiently developed root system of the seedling. Cut the first flower after it is fully opened.
FOR THE NOTICE
If two buds have formed on the bush, wait for the stage of their staining. Then carefully remove the top bud (pinch) - it will dry out and the plant will not spend nutrients on it. If you cut the bud earlier, then the growth point located at the top of the shoot will be damaged, which is fraught with a halt in its growth.
TO COVER PEONY OR NO?
For the first two or three years, young tree-like peonies, especially purchased and grafted, must be covered late in the fall, otherwise the plants may freeze to the level of grafting.
Adult bushes are quite winter-hardy, in the middle lane they are perfectly preserved without shelter. But in a snowy winter, when the temperature drops to -25-30 degrees, the shoots can freeze. In such cases, new buds wake up on the affected specimens in the spring in the region of the root neck and young shoots emerge from the ground. True, these peonies will bloom only after a few years. Shoots must first grow, wood, plant flower buds.
With the onset of autumn cold weather, it is necessary to cover the not yet strong “pets” with earth or peat with a layer of 10-15 cm. When frosts come to - 5-7 degrees, wrap the bushes with spanbond or lutrasil in several layers, with natural burlap. Before sheltering the branches, tie with twine so that they do not break off under the weight of the snow, since the wood of the peony is quite fragile and fragile. In early spring, remove the shelter.
Remember! Early thaws are also dangerous for a peony, during which kidneys sometimes covered with snow or covering material wake up sometimes. And the frosts following the thaw can destroy the plant that has moved to growth.
At the first flowering P. tree-like bush may not show the claimed varietal characteristics. They are usually clearly visible only at the third flowering, especially in densely-doubled flowers and with an unusual shape of the petals.
In case of urgent need (construction, development of a new site, etc.), an adult bush can be relocated to another place in September or early spring. Although the first year after transplanting, such a peony will “hurt”, look dried up, but next season new shoots and buds will appear, the bush will gradually come to life. A planting pit is dug with a size of 80 × 80 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm, the soil mixture at the bottom is covered as well as when planting a young specimen, in the form of a cone (40 × 40 cm).
FEEDING A TREE PEOPLE
If, when planting a Tree Peony, you prepared the soil mixture correctly, then fully feed the bushes with fertilizer only in the 3rd year of life.
These peonies are champions in potassium and nitrogen consumption among flowering plants. Make a separate feeding schedule for them so you don’t miss anything.
|At the beginning of the growing season, after snow melt (April)||Nitrogen and potassium (10 g and 1 5 g per bush, respectively)||It is better to undernourish nitrogen, so as not to provoke a disease of plants with gray rot.|
|Before flowering, to improve nitrogen metabolism||Boric acid solution (1 g / 500 ml of water)||Sprayed whenever possible 15 days|
|During budding||Nitrogen - 10 g, phosphorus - 15-20 g, potassium - 10-15 g||During flowering, potash and phosphorus fertilizers can be added (15 and 10 g a.i. respectively)|
|2 weeks after flowering||Phosphorus - 15 - 20 g, potassium - 10 - 15 g||At the end of July, feeding is stopped so that the plants gradually go into a dormant state. This is especially important for hybrids of yellow peony (P. lutea), which are prone to repair flowering.|
Dry fertilizers are applied on moist soil or before rain. The whole complex of fertilizing will provide the bushes with good development, obtaining high-quality flowers, the formation of large buds of renewal, the accumulation of nutrients in the roots and abundant flowering in the coming year.
And I feed like that
For the first, spring, top dressing, I use Kemira fertilizer in granules, a handful of which I scatter under each bush before watering. The second time that buds are formed, I give Kemira Combi (I dissolve the powder according to the instructions). In the autumn I add to the compost, with which I mulch peonies for the winter, the organic fertilizer “Baikal EM-1” - it improves the soil composition, heals (as it contains beneficial microorganisms) the plot.
Anna Klimovich, collector of plants
In spring, before buds open (in the middle lane - at the beginning of April; in warm regions - at the end of March), broken, dead and dry stems are removed, weak branches are shortened, leaving 10-15 cm.
After the buds bloom, a second pruning is performed: the tops of the frozen shoots are removed to the first upper living kidney. But do not rush, as the upper kidneys awaken quite late. If seeds are not needed, in order to avoid depletion of the bushes, in the summer it is important to remove not only withered flowers, but also cut the stem on which they were, two buds lower.
To rejuvenate the bushes of tree-shaped peonies, Chinese flower growers every 20 years cut them almost to the level of the soil. Such pruning stimulates the awakening of the accessory buds at the base of the shoots and the abundant flowering of peonies in the future, prolonging its life.
Pionovod lunar calendar for June-September 2020
|WORK TYPE||GOOD DAYS||ADVERSE DAYS|
|Watering, weeding, fertilizing plants||03-04.06, 1 1-14.06, 21-23.06;
02-04.07, 08-1 1.07, 18-20.07,
27-29.07; 05-07.08 and 15-16.08 (watering only)
|Planting and watering||15-16.08, 19-20.08; 16-17.09, 29-30.09||03-04.08, 10-12.08,
09-1 1.09, 24-25.09
Valery MATVEEV, astrologer, doctor of agricultural sciences
5 WAYS OF REPRODUCTION OF A TREE PEONY
Seedlings of this luxurious shrub in our time is easy to purchase, and at a price they are affordable. But many amateur gardeners prefer to propagate a tree peony on their own. Occupation is interesting! Try any of the methods with our experts!
Divide the bushes
In this way, adult, 6-7-year-old root peonies can be propagated (the bush must have at least 7 independent stems). Do it at the end of August. They dig a bush, wash the ground from the roots with water from a hose and carefully “split” the rhizome into several parts. Wounds are treated with a solution of the drug "Maxim" (according to instructions) or potassium permanganate and sprinkled with charcoal powder. At the same time, it is important to ensure that each delenka has 2-3 kidneys, and the roots are about 20 cm long.
Before planting in a new place, seedlings can be soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator (Kornevin, HB-101 or others, according to the instructions).
"Clone" tree peony layering
In May, before flowering began, a well-developed P. shoot of the tree-like was bent to the ground, and a shallow longitudinal section was made on the bark (about 10 cm). To accelerate rooting, the incision is treated with a growth stimulator, then the shoot is fixed with a wooden staple and sprinkled with a layer of soil so that the apex remains on the surface. Maintain a constant soil moisture.
In early spring, a young growing shoot is passed through a hole in the bottom of the pot. As the shoot grows, they add soil to the pot, keeping it moist. Over the summer, the shoot will take root, and at the end of August-September, pruning under the pot, it is planted in the ground.
FOR THE NOTICE
You can propagate the peony with air layers: on the shoot make an incision, wrap it with wet moss, and then a film that is hermetically fixed. The roots will appear by the end of summer. True, the effectiveness of this method is low.
Semi-lignified cuttings (each with a kidney and a leaf) have been cut since mid-July. Slices are made obliquely under the kidney, 2/3 reduce the leaf blade, treated with a root growth stimulator. Planted in a pot filled with peat-sand mixture and the upper layer of clean sand (1, 5-2 cm), at an angle of 45 degrees.
Planting is covered with a jar or a cropped plastic bottle.
While maintaining constant humidity and temperature, the first sprouts on rooted cuttings will appear in one and a half to two months, and next spring they can be transplanted to the selected bed.
Seeds of tree peony are dark-colored, shiny, up to 10 mm long. As soon as they ripen (usually this happens at the end of July-September), they are harvested and immediately (before frost) they are sown in loose fertile soil to a depth of 3 cm. In case of harsh winters they are covered with a piece of spunbond until spring. They must undergo double stratification, that is, spend two consecutive winters in the ground, in the natural environment. Some will germinate k next spring. But in most varieties, well-formed plants (with strong roots, stems and first leaves) appear only in the second or third year. Such peonies bloom after a few more seasons. It should be borne in mind that seedlings from hybrid forms often do not retain the best signs of the mother plant and differ from the "progenitor" in color and splendor of flowers.
A standard rootstock is a piece of root 10-15 cm long and of the same thickness as the stem itself. The entrance to the root of the handle needs to be tightly wrapped.
Vaccination of a tree peony
Tree peonies grow quite slowly, and lush flowering from them can be expected only ten years after planting. Inoculation of cuttings / of this type on the roots of grassy peonies accelerates the development and flowering of newly formed bushes. If you wish, it is easy to master the vaccination technique even for an amateur grower. In early August, cuttings with two buds are harvested from the shoots of the current year on a selected bush of P. treelike. The lower part of each shank (scion) is ground under a wedge and firmly inserted into a groove-cleft specially made in the shape of a wedge in the root of a grassy peony (stock).
What to use?
A special grafting tape (sold in stores) or cut from clean household plastic bags with a width of 1 cm is suitable for wrapping. We tightly wrap it at the junction (slightly higher and lower), soil and moisture should not get into the fabric.
Storage and landing
To reduce evaporation, leaves from the scion are removed. The grafted peonies are placed in a box with wet sawdust and stored in the shade.
After a month, they take it out and plant it in a container so that the bottom eye is buried in the soil by 5-7 cm. Leave in the greenhouse.
Or in September-October, they are planted in open ground on high ridges so that the kidneys are at a depth of 6-8 cm.
For the winter they cover with a thick layer of dry leaves, spruce branches and spanbond.
The grafted peony is cultivated for one and a half to two years. As a result of this method of propagation, the bush has 2 root groups, which increases its viability and resistance to frost, and also extends the flowering period.
Lyudmila MASTEROVA, the city of Gorki, Mogilev region.
To get the early seedlings of the Tree Peony, I first scarify the seeds - I file the shells with a file without damaging the cotyledons, and then sow them in a box with moist soil
for seedlings. For the winter I drop a container in the garden and leave it in the cold, covering it with leaves, and in March I bring it into the house (on the veranda). At a temperature of + 17-22 degrees, the seeds gradually germinate.
Secrets of care
In May, I rearrange the crops in the garden (at partial shade), periodically water, in June I feed with a solution of urea (20 g / 5 l of water). I mulch the soil from above with peat.
In the next wintering I again cover with dry leaves, spruce paws or lutrasil.
I transfer to a permanent place in the spring, picking up sunny places protected from the wind for pets. For each I dig a hole 60 × 60-70 cm in size. I put drainage on the bottom.
Stimulus for flowering
In the soil when planting add 1 tbsp. superphosphate, potassium sulfate and dolomite flour, all mixed well. And already next year, some plants bloom, but it is better to cut off these buds. Mature bushes (three years after transplanting) are useful to pour with a solution of sodium humate (5 ml / 10 l of water).
© Author: Anna KLIMOVICH
DREAMY PION - PROTECTION AGAINST DISEASES AND PESTS
Tree peony is quite resistant to diseases and is not particularly afraid of pests. But with improper agricultural technology and favorable conditions for the reproduction of insects, the flower needs our protection. How can we help you?
Insidious gray rot
Most often, old or recently transplanted bushes suffer from it. Gray rot, or peony botrytis (Botrytis paeoniae), affects leaves, stems and buds, appearing in the form of brown blurry spots, rotting necrosis. This further leads to non-opening and drying of the buds. In wet weather, the affected areas are covered with a fluffy gray coating of sporulation. Preventing the disease is easier than fighting it.
FOR THE NOTICE
In addition to gray rot, peony leaves can cause spotting caused by fungi. As a result, spots of different colors and configurations appear on the sheet plate. With severe damage, the bushes weaken, development slows down. The infection persists on plant debris.
Monitor the sanitary condition of the garden, remove and destroy diseased parts of the peony in a timely manner, preventing them from getting into compost.
Regularly, starting from the beginning to the middle of April (2-4 times per season), spray the plants with the Fitosporin-M biological product (according to the instructions).
When the first signs of disease appear on peonies, the affected parts must be removed and destroyed. Then treat the bushes with one of the fungicides: Bordeaux liquid (1%), Acrobat, MC, Rayek and others (according to the instructions). 0 Use (including for prevention) a complex of biological agents.
Down with rust!
If the area where the peony grows is located near a coniferous forest, this ornamental shrub can also be affected by rust (Cronartium flaccidum). Numerous small brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, and orange, gradually darkening pustules appear on the lower side. The source of infection is ordinary pine. For treatment, use the same drugs as in the fight against gray rot ("Acrobat", "Rayek"). Henceforth isolate peonies from a pine.
|TIME OF PROCESSING||DRUGS, DOSE||NOTE|
|The first time - in the spring, when warming the soil to +1 4 deg.||To a depth of 1 cm, a tablet “Gliocladin” is introduced at a distance of 5 cm from the root neck and watered||—|
|Second time - in a week||The soil around the bush is watered with a mixture of “Alirina-B” and “Gamair” (1-2 tablets / 10 l of water, per 10 sq.m)||The treatment is alternated with “Tri-Chocin” (according to the instructions), after 3-4 weeks during the entire growing season|
|The beginning of June||Peony foliage is sprayed with a mixture of Alirin-M and Gamair preparations (1 tablet / 1 liter of water)||After every 1 to 2 weeks, another 2-3 sprayings are carried out, while it is possible to increase the concentration by 2-3 times|
BRONZE: DANGEROUS BEAUTY
These cute beetles measuring about 2 cm stand out for their bright golden green color with a metallic tint. Bronzovka feed on young shoots and peony leaves, as well as light-colored petals and core of buds, nibbling them.
Timely garbage collection on the site (do not store it in heaps where the beetle likes to lay eggs).
Attracting birds to the garden. They destroy both the beetles themselves and their larvae, wintering in the soil and waking up in the warm spring.
Collecting and destroying adults during the summer (early in the morning or in cool cloudy weather when they are motionless).
Processing plants with infusions and decoctions of dandelion, wormwood, marigolds. Their smell repels and disorientates the pest.
Fighting thrips on peonies
These small, about 1-1, 3 mm, sucking insects with an elongated body of dark brown, black or gray color (light larvae) feed on the juice of young leaves and petals. As a result, the tissues discolor, turn yellow, and the decorativeness of the peony decreases. In addition, flower thrips carry viruses and pollute plants with their excrement.
If a pest and traces of its vital activity are detected (silvery strokes are visible on the flowers and the back of the leaves of plants, foci of black or greenish secretions on the stems and petioles, then the leaves fade and fall, the flowers are deformed), the bushes are sprayed with one of the preparations: “Fitoverm "," Fufanon "," Aktara "or" Actellik "(according to instructions).
We fight with the gall nematode
Nematodes are worm-shaped pests with a length of not more than 1 mm. They feed on the roots of the peony, forming nodular swellings (galls) of irregular or rounded shape up to 5 cm in diameter. These growths delay the advancement of nutrients, the plant weakens, the stems do not grow. When buying seedlings, carefully inspect the roots, purchase only healthy material.
If infected bushes are found in the area, dig them together with the roots and burn them. To improve the soil, plant phytoncide crops at this place: dill, garlic, marigolds, marigolds. To suppress the reproduction of the pest, plantings can be treated with a biological nematicide ("Non-matophagin BT" or "Nematorin", according to the instructions).
Folk remedies help reduce the number of nematodes.
1. Spilling sugar water. Dissolve regular sugar in running water and shed the area where damaged plants were found. This will help attract "helpers" - carnivorous fungi and other microorganisms that parasitize on the larvae of gall nematodes.
2. Spilling hot water from the area where the affected plant was removed. It is effective if the water temperature at a depth of 50-60 cm is not lower than + 50-55 degrees.
3. Vegetable infusions. A kilogram of calendula flower raw materials is poured with a bucket of boiling water, infused for two days, used for watering. Similarly, make infusions of nasturtium, onion peel.
Against the moth, too
Bring tansy from the site to remove bronze, moth and other pests. For cooking, I take about 800 g of inflorescences (I collect them in a meadow), chop and pour 2-3 liters of water tightly cover, insist for two days. Then I boil for 30 minutes, filter and dilute with water (1: 1).
Tansy is poisonous. Therefore, I prepare a decoction on a fire in the yard in a bucket, which I do not use anywhere else. And I spray the bushes, putting on rubber gloves on my hands.
DREAMY PION - QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Do you have questions or problems that you can’t solve on your own? Then we ask
A tree peony blooms in a year. After last year's wintering, it came out very frozen, this year there are practically no healthy shoots. Is it possible to somehow “reanimate” a bush?
- Next spring, cut off the aboveground as much as possible (to a height of 10 cm). Delete all branches whose viability you doubt. But just do not throw the bush, even if it seems to you that he was dead. The rhizome has a huge supply of nutrients, and sleeping kidneys can start growing even after two years! A decrease in flowering intensity is not yet a sign of a plant feeling unwell. Many hybrids have a pronounced biennial cycle: one year the tree-like peony blooms profusely, in the second - it rests and lays generative buds.
If the plant is weakened by an unfavorable winter, well-
feed him in July, when the kidneys of the next year are formed, including generative ones. This will affect both the quantity and quality of the flowers: if the plant does not have enough nutrition, the terryness of the “caps” decreases, sometimes even non-flower buds are formed.
Marianna USPENSKAYA, Cand. biol. sciences, breeder of peonies
Garden centers offer root and grafted tree peonies. Tell me, what is their difference? And which is better to choose a beginner grower?
Nikolai Malikov, Cherikov
- Root-tree peonies in suitable garden conditions can theoretically live up to 200 years or more. They winter well, are resistant to diseases and pests. But they grow very slowly and bloom, as a rule, only 5 years after planting.
The advantages of grafted bushes are faster growth (up to 30-50 cm per season), and flowers can be obtained in the year of planting or next summer. At the same time, these plants are not so durable, since the roots of the grassy peony on which they are grafted grow over time, become hollow inside and rot. By the way, these peonies are planted immediately in a permanent place, since the handsome people do not tolerate the transplant. And one more of their drawback - in the future, the bush can not be propagated by division.
Useful life hacking
When buying, pay attention to what the roots of a seedling look like. In the root peony, they are numerous, long and relatively thin (about 5-8 mm in diameter, like pencils), light brown in color. The grafted peonies have thick roots (4-5 cm in diameter!), They are darker. If purchased without understanding, put on the site and one and the other. Watch everyone, comparing growth in a special diary, the presence of flowers and other features - this is an invaluable experience for a beginner lyonovod.
Kristina KLEMESHOVA, Cand. agricultural sciences
Last spring, in early April, I received by mail two tiny (about 10 cm high) seedlings of a tree-like peony, packed in polyethylene with a small piece of sphagnum moss. Unfolded - they are dried up. I kept it for three weeks in a container at home, regularly watered it, then planted it on a flower bed, but the plants did not take root.
- Perhaps they were stored in improper conditions before you or the parcel took a long time. It is more reliable to order not in online stores, but buy in nurseries or garden centers. Choose high-quality, not overgrown and not dried out specimens with 2-3 shoots at least 12-15 cm long.
Then drop them in individual containers (3-5 L) for growing. Plastic containers and ceramic flowerpots with a volume of 3-5 liters are suitable, on the bottom of which lay drainage (expanded clay), and then fill with ready-made soil for seedlings. Leave the planted peonies in a light, cool (with a temperature of up to +18 degrees) place, water moderately. If one of the pets releases a bud in May, it should not be removed in the first year, let the plant flourish. For the summer, it is useful to take out the "houses" with peonies in the garden and dig them into the ground, shading for several days from the open sun. Land on a permanent place in early September.
Is it possible to cut tree peonies for bouquets
- In the cut they are not so long as, for example, grassy (up to two weeks or more). But if there are a lot of flowers on the bushes and you want to give a bouquet to your loved one, why not ?! Cut them halfway along with the top of the shoot, leaving at least 2/3 of the leaves below, otherwise the plants will bloom less next year. Do it early in the evening or in the evening. Putting in a vase of water, keep the flowers in a cool place. Every 2-3 days, renew the slices (under water, so that the air does not fill the pores and does not interfere with the absorption of moisture). You can add a drop of alcohol to the vessel with water.
In the first year after planting, I covered peonies for the winter. I didn’t have time for the second. One of the bushes died. Tell me how to strengthen the shoots so that they do not freeze?
Anna Efremova, by e-mail
And they are not afraid of frost
- For better ripening of wood in September (at the beginning of the month, and if necessary, a second time after 2 weeks), peonies can be fed with a solution of potassium magnesia (2 tbsp. / 10 l of water). In order for the bushes to comfortably hibernate - not to freeze out and not to vomit - it is important to make a light air cover on them on the frame. Some gardeners simply cover with drawers from under the vegetables, but first “legs” are wrapped with spruce paws. Others drive pegs around the trunks, and then wind them with pieces of spunbond (60 g / mXNUMX) or old polypropylene bags made from sugar or cereal, sprinkling soil on the bottom.
In early spring, it is even possible in melting snow, it is also useful to feed young plantings with bone meal or horn-hoofed meal (1 tbsp / bush, once a year). This will help peonies recover faster after wintering and give growth energy.
Close Relatives - Ito Hybrids
Are the peony tree-like Ito hybrids related? Tell me, when did they appear? How hardy are the bushes?
- Ito-hybrids are varieties created by crossing grassy and tree-like peonies. The first such specimens with yellow flowers were obtained by Japanese gardener Toichi Ito in 1958. Then the rights to them were acquired by the American Louis Smirnov, who propagated plants in his nursery and in 1974 registered 4 varieties: Yellow Crown, Yellow Emperor, Yellow Dream and Yellow Heaven. As a result of further breeding work, more and more new products appeared with a wide range of shades of petals - from yellow to red, from pure white to purple. They were allocated in a separate group - Ito-hybrids.
What is inherited?
They inherited very stable peduncles from their ancestor, the peony tree-like, so that the bush retains its shape and does not fall apart under the weight of large flowers. Foliage remains attractive throughout the season until frost. A plentiful flowering, ease of propagation by division, good frost resistance, they are due to the mother plant - grassy peony. Ito-peonies, like their other brothers, look great in landscape compositions, in group plantings and as solitaries.
Thinness of planting and care
What soil do Ito-peonies prefer? Share the intricacies of planting and caring for these beauties.
- A pit measuring 75 × 75 cm and a depth of 45-50 cm is prepared for planting Ito hybrids, since most varieties have a well-developed root system. The "children" of the tree-like peony are more sensitive to acidity, prefer a neutral or slightly alkaline soil reaction (pH at the level of 6, 5-7, 5), so heavy clay areas are not suitable for them. If there are no others, periodically introduce dolomite or limestone flour (long-acting deoxidant) into the soil.
The ideal soil mixture is loose garden soil, peat, humus and sand (1: 1: 1: 1). Favorable planting dates in the middle lane are the same as for all peonies, from the end of August to September.
FOR THE NOTICE
If you bought delenki such a peony in February-March, before landing on a permanent place (April-first half of May), it is better to store them in an earthen mixture or in moss in a cool place at a temperature of up to + 5-7 degrees.
WATERING, FEEDING, CUTTING
In the garden, bushes are rarely watered, but abundantly. For the prevention of rot in the spring, when the average daily temperature rises to + 10 degrees., Some gardeners drop a tablet “Glyo-kladina” into the soil (7-10 cm from the sprout). It is also useful to spray the bushes 2-3 times during the season with a cocktail (dissolve 1 tablet of Alirina and Gamair in 1 liter of water).
Top dressing is introduced from the third year of life. In the first half of summer, plants need nitrogen fertilizers, and after flowering, they need phosphorus. It is advisable to periodically treat these peonies with ash infusion (1 tbsp. Ash / bucket of water). The soil around the bush is loosened and weeds are removed.
They are trimmed later than grassy peonies (in November) and in the first winter after planting, especially in case of severe frosts, they are covered with a layer of peat, on top - with spruce branches.
Lyudmila MASTEROVA answered readers' questions
DREAMY PION - USEFUL PROPERTIES, RECIPES OF BREWS AND TINKS
Since ancient times, a peony tree has been used for healing and magic rituals. Mongol warriors made tea from dry leaves and flowers, which they saved during long crossings on the steppe. Doctors of ancient Rome prescribed epileptics to carry the root of the plant to prevent seizures.
In Western Europe, it was added to the composition of incense for church service, during which the demoniacs were grinded and the devil was banished.
Popular names: bullet, shagnya. Dried flower petals can be used to repel moths.
What and how to harvest?
Be careful - fresh peony roots are poisonous! For therapeutic purposes, dried root bark is used.
Rhizomes are dug up in August-September, when the leaves turn purple. They need to be shaken off the ground, washed quickly in cold water and laid out in a sunny place to dry, then remove the bark from them and dry in the oven. Ancient Chinese and Tibetan healers also recommended charring it before preparing medicines.
It has anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, analgesic, antipyretic, antitoxic, sedative, anticonvulsant, blood purifying, hemostatic, anti-edematous, antifungal, bactericidal effects against coccal flora (streptococcus, pneumococcus, and other bacterial infections, intestinal and malignant erythematosus, and malignant bacteria). Moderately reduces blood pressure, increases uterine tone, prevents the formation of blood clots, enhances the secretion of digestive glands.
It helps with nervous disorders, panic attacks, migraines, vegetative-vascular dystonia, fever in acute respiratory viral infections, bronchial and pulmonary diseases, metabolic disorders (gout, diabetes mellitus), articular rheumatism, and in the treatment of cancer.
Locally - with purulent-inflammatory skin diseases (strep and staphyloderma, furunculosis) and mucous membranes (stomatitis, gingivitis, gynecological diseases), eczema, diathesis, skin itching, radiation and allergic dermatitis.
Tree peony - contraindications
You can not use healing products based on peony during pregnancy and lactation, at an early age, with hypotension, gastric ulcer and 12 duodenal ulcer. Possible complications: decreased blood pressure, spontaneous miscarriage, increased acidity of the stomach, drowsiness.
Tincture of peony tree: 50 g of crushed dry root bark pour 0 l of vodka. Insist 5 weeks in a dark place, periodically shaking. Strain. Take 2-20 drops 30 times a day before meals for 3-2 weeks with insomnia, pathological menopause, after a traumatic brain injury. If necessary, the course can be repeated after 3 days. During treatment, refrain from driving.
decoction: Pour 30 ml of boiling water over 500 g of dry bark, insist under a lid in a water bath for 30 minutes, cool to room temperature, strain. Use for lotions on sore joints with arthritis, arthrosis and gout; for rinsing the mouth with gingivitis and stomatitis, for irrigation of the skin with pustular or allergic diseases.
Ointment: Grind dry bark in a coffee grinder and mix with goose or pork fat in a ratio of 1: 1. Heat in a water bath, stirring, for 30 minutes. Strain hot, drain into a glass dish, store in the refrigerator. Use for lubrication of diseased joints, with neuralgia, spondylosis.
© Author: Tatyana Tsyganova, Phytotherapist doctor
PERSONAL EXPERIENCE CARE OF A TREE PEONY
Experienced and novice flower growers from a wide variety of regions share the secrets of breeding and caring for the tree peony.
By dividing the bush, a tree-like peony is very rarely propagated. In spring, it starts to grow early, and in autumn we have heat, which is replaced by a sharp cooling. And digging up a large bush is quite problematic. Therefore, for me the best thing is to grow new handsome men from seeds. And they winter well even at a temperature of 30 degrees, and lower!
In early September, I collect well-ripened seeds from an adult peony. I wrap them in parchment paper, in which I pierce holes with a needle in advance, and store them in the refrigerator until the end of February.
Soil - a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). I buy a container in a flower shop, it should be wide, but not deep: I put drainage (foam balls) at the bottom, fill it with mixture and pour it with a weak potassium permanganate solution.
I take out the seeds and soak in potassium permanganate (in a solution of room temperature) for 5-6 hours. I throw those that float to the surface. Then I spread the seeds on the surface of the soil at a distance of about 3 cm from each other. I take a match (a toothpick) and gently deepen it with each seed.
I cover the container with a white paper towel, which I press firmly to the ground and then moisten it from above. I put crops in the warmest place with a temperature of + 25-30 degrees. I check every day, water it if necessary (directly on a napkin, the water is well absorbed and does not evaporate so quickly, a good greenhouse effect is obtained).
When most of the seeds germinate, I put the container on a cool window sill, where it is only +15 degrees, so that the seedlings do not stretch. With the advent of two real leaves, I dive into separate cups.
In May, when the threat of frost passes, I transplanted into a semi-shady place in the garden with light fertile soil. I mulch with sawdust to keep moisture longer after watering.
About two weeks after transplanting, plants can be fed with an interval of 20-30 days with mineral fertilizer (according to instructions). Over the summer, young bushes reach a height of about 20 cm.
In the first wintering I always cover: I fall asleep with dry leaves, cover with agrofibre, on which you can still add a little dry stalks of corn or fir branches.
Celandine against aphids
To get rid of the insidious pest that attacks peonies and other flowers in dry weather (a characteristic feature is twisted leaves), the celandine infusion helps me. In order not to stain the plant’s hands with poisonous juice, I put on gloves and use a knife to cut twigs, filling them with a 10-liter bucket by about a third. Add boiling water and insist for 2-3 hours, stirring a couple of times.
Then I filter it into another container, dilute it with water (1: 1), adding 2 tablespoons to a bucket. liquid soap (or a cap of Fairy dishwashing liquid), so that the agent sticks better, and I spray the bushes affected by aphids. If there is a lot of pest, I use the infusion not diluted, but concentrated. For the season I spend 2-4 such treatments, every 7-10 days (you can alternate with the infusion of garlic or garlic arrows: chop, pour boiling water and let stand a couple of hours).
From crumbs to the king of flowers
For the first time, small sprouts of this peony were presented to me by my sister many years ago. Having gone to visit her in the fall, I drew attention to an unusual bush, around which there were a lot of “self-seeding”. For several years, seeds ripening on the plant fell into the ground, underwent natural stratification in the winter, and then gave friendly shoots. The grown seedlings were fortified. Gently crossed several pieces with a lump of earth into a shoe box and brought home.
Planting and care
Planted in the garden in a loose nutritious soil, choosing sunny places that fruit trees shade a bit at noon. She watered until she took root, she covered a small layer of peat for the winter.
The following spring, several times fed green fertilizer (infusions of dandelion, burdock, nettle, which are effective for the prevention of diseases). After such refreshments, irrigation always “fluffed up” (loosened) the earth. In early June, she was treated with a solution of nitroammophoski (matchbox 10 l of water).
Imperceptibly green pets grew up to 40 cm. In summer, they additionally covered them from below ... with a “blanket” of weeds, which protected the soil from drying out quickly.
My tree peonies also survived the second wintering successfully - under the grassy mulch. And in the spring I counted the first five buds on the bushes. When the petals opened, they were pale pink - I have never seen such elegant and fragrant flowers! Bees flocked to them and worked for a week, collecting sweet nectar and pollinating plants. But then, due to the heat (a feature of our climate), “hats” began to quickly dry up and fall off.
Since then, peonies, presented by my sister, delight me with gorgeous flowers every spring, standing out among other shrubs with a regal look. For longer flowering during budding, I shade them with an umbrella and water them abundantly (every 5-7 days). Also, under a flowering bush, scatter around the crown perimeter 1-2 tbsp. wood ash. Two to three weeks after flowering, I feed phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (according to the instructions) - this helps to lay the buds of renewal for the next year.
The heroes love yeast ...
So that peonies of all kinds and varieties quickly grow and bloom profusely, in the spring (late April-May) I feed them with live yeast infusion. For this, 1 kg of fresh yeast (for baking) is dissolved in 7-10 liters of warm water. I insist an hour, dilute with water 1: 2, mix and water the bushes (up to 3-5 liters per plant, depending on size).
To root the summer cuttings, I also use a nutrient solution, but from dry yeast (a pinch / liter of boiled water), in which I soak them for a day, then rinse with clean water and plant them in loose soil in a greenhouse.
... and space
Seedlings of tree peony in the linear group are planted in increments of 1-1,5 m. The distance between the peony and other medium-sized shrubs and trees (forsia, lilac, etc.) is at least 2,5-3 m, otherwise the plants will suffer from rapid depletion of the soil. I maintain the same distance near buildings (arbors, sheds), since they can obscure or overmoisten the soil at the “legs” of the bogatyr flowers falling from the roofs in rain.
Anton LYSENKO, by e-mail
Wrong? Try again!
Somehow, a friend asked me for a stalk of a tree peony - she really liked the flower. In August, I cut three pieces of about 12-15 cm long from suitable (lignified) shoots, so that each had 2-3 kidneys. She advised them to drop them off in a shaded place under the bottles. However, next spring, a friend admitted that all the plants died without surviving the winter. As it turned out, she covered them with halves of used plastic milk bottles (white), without removing the lids from above.
The plants were most likely suffocated without access to fresh air or they were struck by an infection. Indeed, in old milk bottles there could be traces of fat that cause mold.
Therefore, I always use clean containers - from under mineral water.
Fresh sprouts on the cuttings are clearly visible through the walls of such bottles (not cloudy, transparent!), Which indicates their rooting (usually this occurs a month and a half after planting). To get 80-90% rooting, it is useful to shed the soil of the cutter bed (the top layer of 0,5 cm is river sand) with a solution of Fitosporin (according to the instructions). And do not forget to maintain humidity in the heat and regularly air mini-hotbeds!
For the winter I transplant young peonies into separate pots with loose soil, spud up the “legs” with a thin layer of peat and store in a greenhouse. In early spring, they can be planted in open ground in a permanent place. After 2-3 weeks, it is advisable to feed with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions) or infusion of herbs.
Choose the varieties
Currently, more than 500 varieties of tree peony are known. They are conditionally divided into groups: Sino-European - with large terry drooping flowers painted in various shades from fuchsia to light pink; Japanese - with light, soaring over the bush, simple and semi-double flowers of various colors; hybrids of half-shrub peonies: yellow peony and Delaware.
The wide spread of the flower in ancient China was helped by Buddhist monks who appreciated it for its medicinal properties and grew on the territory of temples. Later, chic bushes began to appear in city parks. Peony is immortalized in Chinese paintings, scrolls, vases, embroideries, his image was even on a coin of 1 yuan.
In the VI century, P. suffruticosa came to Japan with Buddhism, where it also became one of the favorite garden plants. There they call it “ebi-sugusuri”, which means “medicine from China”.
In Europe, this peony has been known since the end of the VIII century. It was first described by the English taxonomist R. Farrer.
Then the seeds and cuttings fell into the St. Petersburg Botanical Garden, where at first P. treelike was grown in pots in a cold greenhouse and only since 1939 - in open ground.
Lyudmila MASTEROVA, the city of Gorki, Mogilev region.
In 1957, the flower became a symbol of the American state of Indiana.
What is in your name?
Following the Chinese and Japanese gardeners, French, English, German and American breeders began to develop new varieties of P. treelike. Now yellow-flowered - Alhambra, Argosy, Hesperus, Canary are very popular; yellow with carmine border along the edge - Souvenir de Maxime Cornu; reds - Ariadne, Vesuvian, Gauguin, Kronos; pink - Leda, Mystery, Floral Rivalry, Lord Seibourn; White - Flight of Cranes, King of White Lion and many others. other
Peonies of the Russian selection Moscow University, Stefan, Tatyana, Pomegranate bracelet, Scarlet Sails, Peter the Great, Nikolai Vavilov, Anastasia Sosnovets, Marianna and others are more suitable for growing in gardens of the middle strip.
PION TREE - GROWING, LANDING AND CARE. FLOWER TIPS
TREE PION: LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT
This year, I saw tree peonies blooming on the site of my friends. And I literally fell in love with this plant - it is impossible to take your eyes off it! I definitely decided to plant it at my place. Tell us how to choose a place for a peony and how to plant it.
Treelike (shrub) peonies are really very decorative. Their large fragrant flowers up to 25 cm in diameter and carved leaves will be the highlight of any garden. The tree peony, depending on the variety, can reach a height of 2 m and grow strongly in width.
Treelike peonies can be self-rooted and grafted. Own-rooted plants are very viable, winter well, and are resistant to diseases. The bush is a long-liver (up to 20 years or more). They can be easily propagated by dividing the bush. The disadvantages include the fact that such peonies bloom only 4-5 years after planting and grow slowly during the first five years.
But grafted tree peonies, on the contrary, grow rapidly, up to 50 cm per year. Flowering plants can be obtained even in the year of planting, and most definitely the next year. Minus - grafted peonies are not so durable. Do not multiply by dividing the bush.
When buying, self-rooted and grafted peonies can be easily distinguished by their roots. In rooted ones, they are numerous, long, thin. The grafted have thick roots, 4-5 cm in diameter.
Since the peony does not like transplants, you should immediately choose a good place for it. Most of all, the tree-like peony will like a site with light partial shade, without drafts, scorching sun and stagnant moisture in the soil. The best time for planting is from the second half of August to the end of September, but spring planting is also possible (April-May).
OUR REFERENCE: CHOOSING A VARIETY
A win-win planting option is a composition of several varieties with flowers of different shades, for example, Yaos Yellow, Hai Nun, Sisters are very beautiful
Qiao, Purple Night, Coral Altar, Kinko, Fragrant Memory.
© Author: Irina GURIEVA, teach, sotr. FNTS them. Michurina
TREE PEONY: FROM PURCHASE TO LANDING
Already at the end of winter, tree peony seedlings are sold in garden shops. It is sometimes difficult to resist buying. And everything would be fine ... But the optimal time for planting a peony is from mid-August. What, then, about the acquired planting material?
WHAT ARE SEEDLINGS
Tree peonies are grafted and rooted. Own-rooted has many roots, they are thin (pencil diameter), light. It is these peonies that are considered long-livers, but the first years grow slowly, and bloom from the 4th to 5th year.
The grafted tree peony has darker thick roots (about 4-5 cm in diameter), a bit like carrots. It can bloom already in the year of planting.
When buying a plant with an open root system (in a box; the roots are either bare or in a small amount of substrate), I choose the one whose shoot height is no more than
25 cm. It is important that there are several live healthy (intact!) Kidneys. But planting material with leaves and one in which the lignified part of the shoot greatly exceeds the length of the roots, it is better not to take it.
HOW TO STORE AFTER PURCHASE
When planting in the soil of a self-rooted tree-like peony in the spring, the root system, which has not yet formed suction roots, is not able to provide food for actively growing shoots. And keeping it in a cool basement or refrigerator until the end of summer is unrealistic. Therefore, after purchase, it is better to plant it in a container of a suitable size and put it in a cool, bright place. And with the onset of summer, dig in a pot with a seedling in the garden in partial shade of trees.
The same is done with the seedlings of a grafted tree-like peony. In this regard, I liked the experience of Elena Tokareva, described in her book "Tree peonies at the height of fashion." She prefers to plant seedlings in 5-liter containers from drinking water. It is very convenient: when planting a plant in a permanent place, it is enough to cut the plastic, lower the seedling into the hole right in the cut container and carefully remove it. The earth ball is completely preserved, and the plant quickly takes root.
It only remains to add that when planting tree-like peonies, I treat the roots with the fungicide Maxim or sprinkle them with ash. And I definitely make a drainage layer - both in a pot and on a garden bed in the open field.
© Author: Maria ANASHINA, Moscow region.
See also: Tree-like peonies or peonies in science
PEOPLE TREBLE - GROWING AND CARE. AGRICULTURAL EQUIPMENT ON VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Planting peonies in spring (!) - in pots and ACS
- 10 the most beautiful varieties of PIONES
- Cultivation and varieties of pions for use in landscape design
- Tree-like peonies or peonies in science
- Grassy and treelike peonies are the difference. Ito peonies
- Peonies: planting and leaving in the spring in the open ground
- Reproduction of pions (tree-like, grassy), photos, fineness of care and why they do not bloom
- Division and transplantation of pions
- Peonies (photo) planting and care in the open ground from A to Z
- Tree peony (photo) planting and care. Cultivation and varieties
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