5 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Wherever you buy irises - in the store in packaging or from collectors - take a good look at the deal. The rhizome should be strong, free from damage, mold, soft areas, and the leaves should be free from spots.

    Then the principle applies: the larger the planting material, the better the plant will develop. But keep in mind: for different varieties both the underground part and the aboveground part can be different - the higher and more powerful the iris, the larger the division. For dwarf irises, accordingly, the fans will be small. Do not focus too much on foliage turgor. Even if she wilted, it's okay - these plants can wait for planting for some time without damage. But you cannot store irises in plastic bags.

  2. Daria Vilkova, agronomist

    One of the main reasons why bearded irises stop blooming is thickening. For a year, their rhizome grows 15-20 cm in length and about 3 cm in thickness. For 3-4 years in the flower garden, the irises become very cramped. And now is the time to thin out the plantings. By the way, the July transplants of irises give almost 100% survival in a new place, and strong plants will bloom next spring.

    Carefully dig out the bush around with a pitchfork, without touching the rhizome. Get it out of the ground and separate the children so that each division consists of one or two accreted annual links with a fan of leaves.

    Remove all dry and rotten parts of the root, and shorten the healthy ones, leaving 5-6 cm from the original length (treat all sections with ash). Cut with pruning shears at an angle and leaves, leaving 10-15 cm.
    Dip the planting material several times in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, then dry it in the sun.
    On a bed for loosening, add di-ammophoska (90 g per 1 sq. M). Make a small indentation, place the seedling, spreading the roots, and cover with earth. Leave about one third of the root collar above the soil surface. If the plants are deeply buried, they will not develop well and will not give flowers.
    Plant irises 30-35 cm apart. One of the popular options is planting with an isosceles triangle, where the tops are the future iris bushes. Such a flowerbed looks the most decorative and allows irises to develop and grow for another 4-5 years after transplantation.

    Finally, pour warm water over the plants. And then in a drought, water at least once a week so that the seedlings take root before winter. Excellent moisture retention in soil mulch (eg bark, pebbles, cut grass).

  3. Julia KUDELINA, iris grower

    Bacteriosis, or soft rot of rhizomes, is the scourge of irises, especially on heavy soil. The disease, as a rule, affects the growing parts, the places where the peduncles are laid. However, the lateral buds on the old links remain mostly healthy.
    Signs of the disease: first turn yellow, then the tops of the leaves turn brown, and, finally, the whole fan collapses. It easily "opens" at the base with a part of the rotting rhizome.

    If the disease is detected in time, it can be quickly eliminated. In this case, the affected part of the root links is cut out to healthy tissue and destroyed. The cut is poured with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate and left open, accessible to the rays of the sun, which kill bacteria.
    When re-planting irises in areas where bacteriosis was previously noted, the planting holes are disinfected with formalin or bleach. The planted plants are etched with a 0,2% solution of "Fundazo-la" or "Chinozola" or powdered with powder "Tsineba".

    For protection against leaf spot and rust, preparations "Falcon" and "Strobi" have proven themselves well (use according to the instructions).


    Irises: 3 dressings for perfect flowering

    Irises are my weakness. During flowering, I get not just aesthetic pleasure, but also a kind of psychotherapeutic effect. And so that the flowers remain decorative as long as possible, in the spring I spend three obligatory dressings.

    In April, so that the plants have time to build up the green mass, I give nitrogen: 1 tbsp per bush. azofoski or urea (for young plantings and plants of low-growing varieties - 1 tsp). I scatter the granules under the plant and embed them in the soil with light loosening.
    The next top dressing is during the budding period. I use nitroammophoska (according to the instructions) so that the buds are strong and voluminous. Since the rhizomes of plants are close to the surface of the soil, so as not to burn them, I spill the soil well before the procedure. Then I make grooves around the bushes, scatter fertilizer and cover it with wet soil. The top can be covered with compost.
    The following remedy will also help to feed the plants with phosphorus for abundant flowering: I insist 200 g of minced fish in 5 liters of water for a day. I water the flowers in the spring during the growth of the leaves every 2-3 days. I stop 2 weeks before flowering.

  5. Olga KAPYLOVA

    Siberian irises are not only beautiful, but also reliable plants - they easily adapt to different climatic conditions, suitable for a low-maintenance garden.

    I advise everyone to avoid spring planting - irises are best rooted in unheated soil. I plant and transplant my "Siberians" in September in rainy, cool weather.
    If a beginner can cope with planting, then transplanting can be difficult even for experienced florists. The fact is that in these flowers, the rhizomes are shortened, form a dense bush that is difficult to divide, and numerous elastic roots go to a depth of more than 50 cm.With a well-sharpened shovel, I dig in the bushes on a bayonet at a distance of 10-15 cm from the leaves and cut from below. I cut the rhizome into sections with 3-4 points of growth, roots 12-18 cm long and plant them in new places without delay, water abundantly.
    The recommended period for growing "Siberians" in one place is 6-10 years.


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