After which it is better to plant peas and how to fertilize?
PEA VARIETIES FOR OUTDOORS, LANDING AND CARE
Why do I love peas the most? For its unpretentiousness, taste and ... frost resistance. Every year I sow seeds in several terms, and I spend the last sowing in September.
Varieties of medium ripening, such as Deliza, Jof, Dinga, Zhegalova 112, Pervenets, etc., seem to me to be more productive. These are powerful plants 1-1 m high, and they need the appropriate support. But I still like early-ripening varieties more, such as Azart, Alpha, Ambrosia, Vera, Voronezh green, Gporiosa, Kelvedon miracle, etc. They begin to bear fruit on the 8-50th day after germination and give off the harvest in about 60-30 days ... They can be sown very early, last year, for example, I sowed them at all before winter - I wanted to check if it would be possible to harvest in early June.
And it would work out! Winter was abnormally warm, and seedlings appeared early. It is a pity, the cold weather in May delayed the development of plants. But despite this, our peas ripened earlier than our neighbors, and there were no wormy pods at all.
The culture is very cold-resistant - the seeds begin to germinate at a temperature of 1-2 °, and my seedlings somehow withstood the freeze to 6 °. And I took off the most abundant harvest when the crops were unexpectedly covered with snow. It's good that the sprouts hadn't yet come to the surface!
In June, I sow peas a second time, and the third - no later than July 5-10. Then the early ripe varieties still have time to produce a crop. Ripening period - alas, that's not all. The closer to autumn, the slower the plants develop. Why is this so? I came to the conclusion that the reason is that the day is getting shorter and the peas are a long day plant.
Since mid-July, I sow it weekly on any vacant piece of land. And before the frost, I get a great cut for salads! Since it is not profitable to buy varietal seeds for this purpose, I buy peas for germination in bulk, 2-3 kg each.
That's what I won't plant anymore - it's exotic, Blue Nose blue peas. It is unusual, yes, this cannot be taken away, but the taste is not for everybody. It reminded me more of the taste of beans.
Peas are one of the best siderates. A powerful root system allows you to absorb nutrients located in deeper layers of the soil (including the extraction of phosphorus from sparingly soluble compounds). Nitrogen-fixing bacteria living in root nodules actively assimilate nitrogen from the air if the soil is sufficiently breathable. However, this element will become available to other plants only next year. So don't pull out dead or cut plants with roots!
Peas are best planted after cucumbers, pumpkin crops, cabbage, beets or potatoes, but anything can be planted after. This is an excellent predecessor for any vegetables (except, of course, legumes).
I experimented with trying to speed up the emergence of seedlings - I sowed with soaked seeds. 12-18 hours before sowing, I flooded them with water ... The idea was not the best: some of the peas fell into two halves. So since then I have been sowing only dry seeds, but in very wet, one might even say, damp soil.
The pea bed, despite its generally recognized unpretentiousness, I prepare in advance in a sunny place. The culture is very photophilous and even in partial shade blooms much weaker. I must fill the soil with fertilizers. For some reason, it is generally accepted that legumes (including peas) do not need to be fertilized, supposedly they will feed themselves. But this is not the case. Young plants need easily assimilated nitrogen, especially if it's cold outside or the plants lack moisture, as well as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, magnesium, iron and trace elements - molybdenum, boron, manganese and cobalt. So here you can't do without a complex "mineral water".
But manure or a large amount of compost for peas is not worth making. At the same time, it will bear little fruit, although the tops will grow abundant.
When sowing, I put the peas to a depth of 4-5 cm and be sure to pull the raven net from above. In one year, they drastically thinned my crops! For seedlings I am not afraid, they are sturdy, easily crawl out from the depths.
Planting care is simple: weeding and watering - and the obligatory installation of supports. Peas are very hygrophilous! During drought, it stops growing and flowering, the pods instantly overripe, and the peas become tasteless. So in the heat of 1 square. I pour out 15 ounces of water and every other time. I add water-soluble fertilizers to the water.
Sometimes unscrupulous producers sell instead of seeds of peas sowing (ordinary) hemp - field peas. It is easy to recognize him: his seeds are dark brown, angular or rounded, and the flowers are red-purple. This species is traditionally used as a fodder crop - due to its higher resistance to diseases and cold, but its taste is not for gourmets. However, this species is in high demand in breeding work.
There are peas that grow without support, clinging to their neighbors with a mustache. He has a lot of them, but leaflets, on the contrary, are few. At home, I sowed early ripe Aksai mustache, Afilla, Batrak, Bingo, Darunok, Nikitka, Mustache nanny. Here they are ideal for summer crops. Productivity, of course, is lower than that of tall varieties, but plants bloom and bear fruit together. For blanks what you need.
It is necessary to collect the ripening beans often, then they do not outgrow, and the plants continue to bloom profusely.
After harvesting, I chop the tops right in the garden. It is an excellent fertilizer that improves soil structure. And what earthworms live under such mulch! Almost as thick as a finger!
PEAS PASSED FACE CONTROL
In shelling pea varieties, the bean shells contain a hard parchment layer. They are used as animal feed, as well as for freezing, for soups and cereals, rarely for canning. The taste of peas is average.
The beans of the brain varieties also have a parchment layer, so the valves are not used for food. But the peas are very sweet and tasty. When ripe, they shrink. For canning, these are the best varieties.
Sugar varieties are known for the fact that you can eat not only seeds, but also the beans themselves. The parchment-free shells are delicious both fresh and in vegetable stews. The main difficulty in growing these varieties is timely harvesting, these beans cannot be over-grown. If the surface of the valves is covered with a net, the peas will become mealy and slightly sweet.
See also: How to deal with pea moth?
PEAK POTENTIALS
Delicate sweet peas attract not only children, but also six-legged connoisseurs of sweets. One of the most dangerous enemies of peas is the moth. Caterpillars winter in the soil, and butterflies of a new generation fly out during the appearance of buds and flowering plants, and are mainly active in the evening. They are very fertile: each female is capable of laying about 250 eggs, and within a week the caterpillars gnaw through the pods' valves, where, inaccessible to predators, they feed on young peas. Living on the principle that “I will not eat, I bite”, they may well deprive you of most of the harvest. Peas often suffer from the root weevil. These small bugs figuratively gnaw depressions from the edges at first.
leaves, sometimes damaging the growth point, which leads to the death of the plant. Pests are especially active in hot and dry weather. Beetle larvae feed on nodules on plant roots, greatly weakening them. Early crops are more resistant to the pest.
I don’t want to use chemical insecticides on peas at my site, I prefer to scare away pests with various tasteless odors - for example, infusion of tomato tops (3 kg per 10 l of water) or garlic (200 g per 10 l of water). In the last year, I began to treat birch tar with great respect: I mix 1 tbsp. spoon with adhesive, I spread in 10 liters of water and spray the planting. Insects just run away!
See also: Growing sugar and peeling varieties of peas - tips for planting and care
GROWING PEA - A METHOD FOR VIDEO
© Authors: L. DYAKOVA, L. TELITSYNA Kaluga Region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Dwarf dill "Bushman" cultivation and expert reviews
- Seedlings of cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini - complete instructions for growing and caring
- What plants can be left for the winter outdoors
- Collecting and storing your mustard, coriander, dill, lettuce and radish seeds
- Growing vegetable physalis in the Moscow region - my reviews and description of care
- Seedlings of corn, daikon, cabbage, onions and beans - sowing and care
- Harvest of cucumbers and peppers even if the summer was hot (Voronezh region).
- Harvest of green peas in the Moscow region in 1,5 months
- What top dressings and fertilizers are missing seedlings - how to determine?
- Vigna (photo) - (vegetable beans): how to grow
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!