Cherry moniliosis - how to fight?
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SAVING CHERRY FROM MONILIOSIS
This year, cool April weather and heavy rainfall during the flowering period led to an outbreak of monilial burn (moniliosis) on cherries.
SIGNS OF MONILIOSIS IN CHERRY
Unfortunately, under the current conditions, standard protection may not be enough, and it is not always possible for amateur gardeners to process tree crowns in time. As a result, there are numerous dead inflorescences and drying and blackened leaves and shoots on cherries, as if they were burnt by fire. By the way, sweet cherries, which were previously immune to moniliosis, also began to "burn".
On dead plant tissues in wet weather,
fungal spores that infect ripening cherries and cherries, causing the fruit to rot. And if left on trees, they will become a source of infection in the new growing season.
MEASURES FOR CONTROL OF MONILIOSIS DURING FRUIT ...
During the ripening period, the use of pesticides is prohibited, therefore, to reduce the infectious stock of the disease in the garden at this time, it is necessary to cut out the branches affected by the monilial burn as much as possible with the capture of healthy wood (5-10 cm) or until the first healthy branch. Collect all plant residues in a bucket and immediately destroy - burn or bury deep in the ground (20-25 cm).
See also: Monilioz (photo) - how to treat?
TREATMENT OF CHERRY FROM MONILIOSIS AFTER HARVESTING
In August-September, in order to prevent it, it is important to remove ALL fruits from the trees - both healthy and sick, dried up. In them, pathogens are preserved in a form inaccessible to fungicides. Such berries left behind will be food for dangerous pests (such as cherry flies).
Cut out the remaining dead branches and shoots affected by burns and other diseases. Destroy them immediately.
Spray cherries and cherries with Monilial Burn Fungicide. You can use Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water), Azophos, Abiga-Peak, Raek, Sillite, Skor, Topaz, Horus (according to the instructions). Treat the soil under the trees, because leaves, inflorescences, fruits affected by diseases remain on it.
If in August-September it is rainy weather or the defeat of moniliosis this season was strong, then repeat the treatment after 2-3 weeks. IMPORTANT! If possible, do not use the same fungicide twice in a row, alternate preparations!
During leaf fall, spray the garden with a urea solution (500-800 g per 10 liters of water).
These measures will protect your trees not only from monilial burns, but also from coccomycosis, clasternosporia and other leaf spots.
See also: Spring and autumn moniliosis, on apple and pear, cherry apricot and plum
NOTE: DO DUKES HAVE MONILIOSIS?
A duke grows in rare gardens. Our tree has already begun to bear fruit. Therefore, I can rightfully tell you about this wonderful plant. Duke is a hybrid of cherry and sweet cherry (it is often called so - sweet cherry). He took all the good from his parents: from the cherry - large fruits, and from the cherry - aroma and sourness, for which we love her.
I think the duke will be a gift for the owners of small plots. Let's say my 6-year-old cherry is already higher than 5 m. And this despite the fact that every year I form its crown. We also bought a duke 6 years ago at the same time as a cherry. Does the height of my Ivanovna (the so-called duke grade) not exceed? m. Cherry-peers of the varieties Vladimirka and Molodezhnaya are not higher than 1,5 m.
By the way, our cherries and cherries have become good pollinators for the duke. And this is important: cherries are self-fruitless, without pollination they will not give a crop (a neighboring tree can also be a pollinator). True, if the duke is pollinated with cherries, fewer berries will be tied. The best option is still the Iput cherry. But the dukes do not pollinate each other.
Cherry fruit pulp is juicy and at the same time quite dense. My Ivanovna's is a little sour. But the jam and compotes are amazing.
The duke is winter-hardy - the plant has not had a single frozen twig for 6 years. There was no frostbite: she tied spruce branches around the trunk of a young tree for the winter.
They write that the ducks are resistant to disease, but already last year Ivanovna suffered from moniliosis. Although they cultivated the garden from this misfortune
with hicides (before flowering), it was not without losses: some of the diseased branches, along with the berries that had set, had to be cut and burned. But the remaining harvest was also pleasing.
© Author: Olga BABCHUK, Moscow region.
WORD TO THE SPECIALIST
It was previously believed that sweet cherries and duke do not suffer from moniliosis. But now the disease is progressing, so be sure to treat these crops from a monilial burn at the same time and with similar preparations as cherries.
© Author: Julia KONDRATENOK, Cand. agricultural sciences
FIGHT AGAINST CHERRY MONILIOSIS - TIPS AND REVIEWS FROM GARDENERS
HOW I FIGHTED WITH CHERRY MONILIOSIS
This culture has a special place in my heart. I love its foamy white clusters during flowering, and I love the fruits in any "performance": in compotes, in jam, in homemade yoghurts, as a dessert. And, of course, aromatic berries plucked straight from the twigs are absolutely incomparable to the taste.
I have a big old garden and there are many cherry trees in it. This is mainly the Vladimirskaya variety. It has not very large berries, almost black in color and late ripening. And the trees of an unknown variety of fruits, on the contrary, are large, liquid, and they ripen earlier than Vladimir's. But the largest and earliest berries of a dark red color gave two trees about 2,5 m high. It is with them that my sad story is connected.
Every year in early July, this couple generously shared their harvest with me: I removed four or six buckets of sweet treats from each cherry. She made preparations, and sold the surplus in the market, where they were in great demand.
But one day my cherries got sick. It all started with the fact that in our village chestnuts began to dry up, and they grew in almost everyone. The leaves on them turned yellow in July, then dried up and finally fell off.
Monilial burn! I had to cut down a huge chestnut outside our house.
But, apparently, I did it late, as the trouble spread to the cherry trees. In late varieties, I cut off all branches with leaves that had the slightest signs of damage to healthy tissue, and treated the crowns with purchased preparations. But I regretted the very two early and luxurious cherries - they burst under the weight of the harvest. I paid for this: the next year, both trees were covered with dry leaves in June. I cut down the branches, used the whole range of drugs for moniliosis, but the time was lost, and the cherries had to be cut down. The abandoned hemp did not even produce overgrowth - the variety was irretrievably lost.
The rest of the trees came to their senses for several years. It seemed to bloom well, but the fruits were small, and they were set much less than before. I realized that it was time to save the cherry orchard. The cardinal pruning helped in this.
In spring, the trees that were soaring upward, cut the tops to the first pair of skeletal branches, cut the skeletal branches in half, and at the same time thinned the young growth and removed all the branches that grew inside the crown.
After that, the crowns were covered with delicate bright greens, and then they bloomed timidly. Another year passed before I saw the lush flowering of my favorites and received a decent and bountiful harvest: ripe cherries bent down the branches in heavy bunches. Enough for preparations and for treating relatives.
Conclusions made the following:
- annual pruning cannot be neglected, even if, at first glance, you can do without it;
- at the first signs of the disease, urgent measures are needed to eliminate it;
- in autumn and early spring, you need to treat the garden with appropriate preparations for the prevention of diseases and protection from pests.
© Author: Svetlana Nikolaevna ANTSIFEROVA. from. Kostenki of the Voronezh region.
SIGNS OF MONILIOSIS IN CHERRY AND PLUM - VIDEO
© Author: Julia KONDRATENOK, breeder-phytopathologist, Ph.D. agricultural sciences. Author photo
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