How to properly propagate remontant strawberries - TIPS K.S.KH SCIENCES
Contents ✓
CORRECT REPRODUCTION OF REPAIR STRAWBERRY
Seedlings of remontant varieties of garden strawberries (or simply strawberries) are usually obtained by sowing seeds, because they practically do not form whiskers. The offspring obtained in this way fully retains all the properties inherent in the parent variety plant.
© Author: Nikolay Khromov
WHERE TO GET THE SEEDS
The seeds can be bought at almost any garden store, or you can pick them from the fruit yourself. The collection of fruits for the isolation of seeds is usually carried out in June, while larger fruits are chosen, and always in full ripeness. It is easier and more convenient to cut off the top layer of pulp with seeds with a razor blade and, spreading it out on a canvas, dry it for a couple of days in the sun. The resulting dry mass with seeds must be separated from the pulp and put in clean paper bags for storage (at room temperature).
The second way to isolate seeds is called "wet". Separate the seeds from the pulp by washing them with water.
IMPORTANT
Properly harvested seeds, stored in suitable conditions, can remain viable for up to four years.
PREPARING SEEDLING
The first thing you should definitely pay attention to is the quality of the soil. Before sowing seeds, it must be steamed or disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.
It's great if you have the opportunity to get peat plates with cells or peat tablets, but if not, you can buy or prepare your own soil from equal shares of river sand, humus and ordinary earth.
It is best to grow seedlings of remontant strawberries using transparent containers, it least of all contributes to the occurrence of fungal diseases. But whatever container you choose for growing seedlings, it will definitely need to be very well washed and disinfected by wiping it with a strong solution of ordinary potassium permanganate.
Before sowing, the seeds must be soaked. You should not rush with this, the optimal time for soaking the seeds is two or even three days. Professionals advise taking rainwater for this.
All this applies to the seeds that you collected yourself, but the purchased seeds do not require soaking for such a long time, it is enough to soak them in water or in a solution of any growth stimulant, for example, BCI, for 5-6 hours and you can start sowing.
See also: Reproduction of strawberries - methods and their pros and cons
1ST METHOD FOR REPAIRING STRAWBERRY
Sowing is done in early August. At the bottom of a box or other container, drainage is laid about a third of the volume, it can be broken brick, expanded clay or something else. Place two thirds of the earthen mixture on top of the drainage. Before sowing, the soil is well spilled and small rows are made on its surface, so that a distance of 5-6 cm remains between the rows.
Strawberry seeds, as you know, are very small, which is why they should be embedded in the soil to a depth of no more than 0,5 cm, or simply pressed against the soil with a ruler or flat stick.
After sowing, the container with seeds should be covered with foil or glass and placed in a room with a temperature of 23-25 degrees for about two weeks. About once a day, the film or glass must be removed in order to ventilate the soil and moisten it.
If you are afraid of waterlogging the soil, which is also unacceptable, you can pour water into the sump or spray it from a spray bottle. The latter method, among other things, will prevent the seeds from washing out.
As soon as shoots appear, the container with seeds must be transferred to a very well-lit place, and after another 14-16 days, when the plants acquire the first true leaf, they can be dived, increasing the distance between the plants to 3 cm.
The pick should be done carefully, prying the plants
with a wooden peg or stick, and before planting, it is necessary to slightly pinch the tips of the roots and plant the plants in the holes prepared in advance in the soil, deepening the root at a slight angle, and press the soil to the roots.
Ordinary flower pots are often used for picking. Up to three dozen seedlings can be transplanted into such a dish with a diameter of 12-15 cm.
Around September 10-15, the seedlings should form four or five leaves, after which they can be re-cut, planting already according to the 5 x 5 cm scheme, well, after another 5-10 days, that is, closer to the end of September, the seedlings are needed within XNUMX hours hardened outdoors and can be planted in a permanent place in the garden.
BTW
Seedling diseases are not such a rare occurrence. Professionals say that if you got seedlings and did not develop mold, then you are lucky. More often, fungi appear on the soil surface, the soil turns black or green, cobweb fibers are formed - this is a white mold, which is very dangerous for strawberry seedlings.
It is necessary to remove all foci of the spread of the fungus as soon as possible with a cotton swab or plain paper dipped in potassium permanganate. Thereafter, it is highly recommended to shed any antifungal agents.
2ST METHOD FOR REPAIRING STRAWBERRY
The seeds are first laid out on filter paper laid on a saucer. Soak the paper a little with water. Place a dish with seeds on paper in a plastic bag and put this "structure" in a warm and well-lit place. In such conditions, you need to wait for the seeds to germinate, after which each seed should be transplanted very carefully, on a toothpick or with small tweezers, into a container filled with nutritious soil.
For sowing germinated seeds, the best soil will be a mixture of coarse river sand, as well as vermicompost and peat in equal proportions. Sprouted strawberry seeds do not need to be embedded in the ground, they can be laid on the surface of the substrate, stepping back from each other at a distance of about 2-2,5 cm and slightly pressing them into the ground.
When a couple of real leaves appear, the seedlings need to be dived into separate pots. At the same time, the strongest plants need to be planted in pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, while smaller ones can be planted in the same container where they grew earlier, but at the same time plant at a greater distance.
Remember that for the normal development of strawberries, strawberries need a lot of light and the higher the temperature in the room, the more light you need. Watering must be done, but moderate, otherwise the seedlings may get sick with a black leg and die.
It is worth describing how strawberry seedlings look like, because to a person who sowed its seeds for the first time in his life, it may seem strange that this thin stem, towering above the soil surface, is a strawberry seedling. Many are waiting for something creeping on the surface of the soil, and this is true, because as soon as the leaves on the seedling grow and become heavy, the seedling will lie on the surface of the soil and acquire additional roots.
See also: Reproduction of strawberries from A to Z - a professional advises!
REPAIR STRAWBERRY - REPRODUCTION. VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Planting strawberries if you are in the country, in the garden only on weekends
- The main pests of strawberries and strawberries - photo, name, description and control measures
- Mistakes when growing wild strawberries - detailed description and correction
- Strawberries: crop rotation and long-term "one-year" way of growing
- Planting strawberries in October (late planting) my feedback and result
- Strawberry cultivation in Karelia - planting and care
- Cultivation of strawberries in the new garden
- Strawberries from seeds - how it's done correctly (Part 2)
- Growing Strawberries in Bryansk Region
- Growing Gigantella strawberries - my reviews and description of planting and care
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
I'll tell you about one very interesting breeding technique for remontant strawberries, which I have been using for several years.
In the summer, after harvesting, I select a small plot of land on the fertile garden bed and add a mixture of humus with coconut substrate (or vermiculite) and sand there. I level the soil, water it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and sow strawberry seeds, "nailing" them to the ground from a sprayer. I cover it with a non-woven cloth, and after five to seven days strong, squat shoots appear. These are the "nurseries" I have invented for my favorite culture.