Clematis - reproduction, planting and care in September
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KLEMATIS: BREEDING AND CARE IN SEPTEMBER
Luxurious clematis can easily compete in beauty with exotic wonders. A waterfall of rich greenery with large flowers of a wide variety of colors looks spectacular in any garden. It's time to take care of the lovely liana so that you can admire its bloom for as long as possible in the new season.
KLEMATIS IN SEPTEMBER - ROOTED IN SUCCESS!
From my own experience I was convinced that the best time for autumn planting of clematis is September. A young seedling quickly adapts to a new place and has time to take root by winter.
Before planting, I always keep the seedlings bought on the market or my own cuttings from old, heavily overgrown bushes in a solution of copper sulfate (I dilute it in warm water - a pinch / 1 l), immersing the clematis roots in it for 10 minutes. Then I dry them gently with a paper towel.
I prepare the site for clematis as follows: I mix humus, peat, turf soil and sand in equal parts, add 1 g of complex mineral fertilizer per square meter. The size of the planting holes is 150 × 50 cm, the distance between the plants is at least 50 m. I spread the roots of the seedling and deepen the root collar by 1-9 cm.
Clematis need time to settle down and gain strength. After planting, for the first 2-3 years, they have an unpresentable look - ornamental plants will become closer to 4 years.
FOR THE NOTICE
Often, clematis suffer from nematodes. Once a friend shared a sapling with very beautiful flowers. It's good that before planting, I carefully examined it: there were swellings on the roots - a sign of damage by a root nematode. Unfortunately, we had to get rid of the plant.
© Author: Anna ABRAMKINA
REPRODUCTION OF KLEMATIS IN SEPTEMBER - BY LAYERS!
Last year I decided to propagate my favorite clematis with a layering.
In September, under an adult bush, I made a groove about 8 cm deep, laid a shoot in it, pressed it in several places with staples and covered it with a mixture of humus and garden soil (1: 2), leaving the end of the layer (10 cm) on the soil surface. Before the first frost, she watered abundantly. She covered it with spruce paws for the winter.
In the spring, when young sprouts appeared, she covered everything with peat. This fall, the grown clematis seedling will be assigned to a permanent place.
© Author: Olga GORBUNOVA, Bryansk
CLEMATIS: RING FIT
The neighbor shared his unusual way of getting new clematis, which I will certainly try.
In the first month of autumn, after pruning, it selects several long, well-ripened shoots. He bends them into rings, buries them on the bayonet of a shovel in the soil and covers them with spunbond for the winter. The next season he grows strong plants.
© Author: Tatiana SOBOLEVA
KLEMATIS IN SEPTEMBER - VIDEO
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Стал делить куст клематиса и обнаружил на его корнях какие-то утолщения. Что это может быть?
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Если на корнях клематиса появились узловидные утолщения, можно предположить, что растение поражено галловой нематодой. Яйца этого очень мелкого круглого паразитического червя сохраняются в земле долго. Нематода размножается при температуре выше 15°С, поэтому важно не допускать перегрева почвы, мульчировать ее нейтральным торфом или компостом. При посадке нельзя использовать свежий навоз, так как выделяемое им тепло способствует размножению нематоды. Зараженное растение отстает в росте и хуже цветет. Пострадавший клематис необходимо выкопать и сжечь, а землю заменить. Для профилактики заболевания рядом с клематисами можно высадить растения, выделяющие фитонциды, – чеснок, календулу и т.д.
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How to propagate clematis?
If you want to have a large amount of planting material, propagate clematis by grafting on the roots. Take green cuttings for grafting from growing shoots of well-developed adult plants. Cut them into 4-6 cm lengths with one knot at the top. For a rootstock, plant a 1-2 year old plant in a pot with light nutrient soil. When it has a strong root system, free the roots from the ground, rinse gently, cut off the largest of them and use for grafting.
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5 reasons to choose clematis
This is a garden plant.
A lot of flowers fit in a small area. It blooms from spring to autumn, it is convenient for creating a hedge.
Does not require careful maintenance. Suitable for growing in containers.
Large selection of varieties - for almost every taste.
Able to turn the most neglected area into a blooming garden in a short time.
Different varieties of clematis bloom at different times. For example, Alyonushka, Blue Bird, Zhakmana, Luther Burbank, Jemmy Queen form flowers on the shoots of the current year. Other varieties - on last year's shoots.
Almost all varieties actively develop the root system for the first two years (in the third year, the roots reach a depth of 1-1 m). Therefore, abundant flowering of clematis occurs, as a rule, in the third year.
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In conditions of high humidity and waterlogged soil, clematis develop wilt and fusarium.
Careful pruning of all damaged parts of the plant is necessary (they must be burned). Spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulfate.
Treat the soil at the base of the stems with foundationazole (20 g per 10 liters of water).
For prevention, plant calendula and marigolds nearby - they will not only protect clematis, but also create a beautiful composition.
Nematode. Alas, the only way to get rid of it is to destroy all plants, and thoroughly disinfect the soil.
Ticks, flies and other pests. They do no particular harm.
Therefore, in chemicals that kill both harmful and beneficial insects
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August is a dangerous month for clematis. It is at the end of summer that he suddenly begins to hurt and fade.
Therefore, I carefully examine my clematis every day, cut everything I need. Well, I don’t forget prevention: just in case, I add wood ash to the top dressing. I noticed that it not only protects against disease, but also strengthens the plant - the lashes ripen better, and the plant is not afraid of severe frosts.
In September, I loosen the soil, weed it. It is no longer necessary to feed clematis, but it's time to transplant to another place. I have a large plot, so I plant clematis everywhere and say that nature has not come up with a better plant for green decorations and hedges.
Well, in the fall I cut clematis. Make sure that the root neck is sprinkled with earth. Closer to the cold, I carefully cover. This is also very important, especially when the frost hits before the formation of a snow cover.
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Tell me, what varieties of clematis are in special demand today? Interested in varieties for growing both at home and in the country.
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When should you divide the clematis bush? I have adult vines - 5-8 years old and several three-year-olds, from which I would like to get a couple more bushes.
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- Clematis can be divided with a large shoot-forming ability of a particular variety. At the same time, from a bush at the age of 5-10 years, you can get from 5 to 25 divisions. Younger ones are best propagated by cuttings in late June and early July. Division is useful for thickened plants, since they bloom worse with age.
It is better to do this in April-May, before the growth of the shoots. It is not always necessary to dig up the entire bush, you can do with digging from one edge of a groove 50-60 cm deep. When working, it is important to place a shovel radially to the center of the bush in order to injure the roots as little as possible. When partially digging, take your time, scoop up the earth a little, it is good to work with a hoe with round teeth and a short handle.
BTW
The roots cut off during the digging process can be immediately used as rootstocks for grafting varietal large-flowered clematis.
Carefully free the center of the vines from the ground, separate a number of parts with roots with a pruning shears and plant them in a new place.
Powder the sections on the uterine bush and cuttings with charcoal powder. The trench then needs to be covered with fresh nutritious soil, adding complex fertilizer, preferably long-acting, according to the instructions.
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The soil for planting clematis should be permeable, loamy, slightly alkaline or neutral, well fertilized and loose. At the bottom of the planting pit (60x60x60 cm in size), a layer of crushed stone of 10-15 cm should be placed for drainage. The soil from the pit should be completely replaced with fertile soil with the addition of humus or compost, add 150 g of superphosphate and 200 g of dolomite flour.
In the spring, it is useful to water clematis with milk of lime (dolomite flour, chalk) and a solution containing copper (1 tablespoon per bucket of water).
Good results are obtained by dusting the bottom of the vines with wood ash after rain - this prevents the shoots from wilting.
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A lot of varieties of clematis are sold on the market. Remember, among them there are both really unpretentious and capricious. It is better to buy seedlings from trusted sellers.
When planting, take into account the need for lighting - there are varieties that bloom in the open sun (for example, Purple Dream, Jackmanii, The President, Purpurea Plena Elegans), and there are quickly fading, it is better for them to grow in the shade (Nadezhda, Nelly Moser, Niobe, Ville de Lyon).
Clematis do not like wetlands and nearby groundwater. They must be planted in places that dry out quickly in spring.
Deep (and not wide, as the roots of clematis grow down, not in breadth) planting pits should be prepared.
The soil needs to be loose and rich in nutrition.
It is advisable to immediately plant these vines in a permanent place.
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In early October, in Alpine, flowering, large-petalled and mountain clematis, which bloom on the shoots of last year, I cut off only broken branches and those. that thicken the bush. But the hybrids of the Florida and Patens groups have to be cut at a height of 1-1,5 m from the ground, remove the whips from the supports, lay them on the ground and insulate them with covering material or spruce legs. I pay special attention to clematis, which bloom twice a season - they are the most whimsical.
The first time the plants dissolve delicate flowers on the shoots of last year (after flowering, I cut them off), and the second time - on young shoots, which I shorten by a third in October. I pour a bucket of dry peat under the base of the bushes, carefully lay the branches on the ground and cover with spunbond (you can also use lutrasil).
For herbaceous species of clematis (Manchurian and straight) I make an "extreme" haircut - with a sharp pruner I cut off the shoots to the very ground, as they die off for the winter.