WHAT DO YOU NEED TO DO IN A FLOWER IN THE BEGINNING OF AUTUMN
Veresen - heather blooms
This is what the ancient Slavs called September. Indeed, in the first month of autumn, heather blooms in the gardens. And at this time, the color of the foliage changes on trees and shrubs, it "burns" with gold or crimson. After the first frost, usually in the second decade of September, leaf fall begins ...
Astronomical autumn comes later than the calendar - September 22-23, the day of the autumnal equinox. Usually Indian summer comes in the middle of the month. Many plants bloom again at this time, albeit not as abundantly as in summer.
Signs for September
If the first day of Indian summer is clear, autumn will be fine.
Bulbous plants have a thin peel - for a mild winter.
Spruce cones grew on the lower branches - to early frosts, high - to late ones.
Processing gladiolus bulbs after digging
After digging the gladioli, I process the corms from thrips in a solution of the Actellik preparation (2 g / 1 l of water, soak for 5 minutes). And when the drug is not at hand, I pour boiling water over the planting material in a colander, or you can put it in a container and fill it with hot (+ 45-50 degrees) water for 10 minutes.
Irina GORODKO, biologist, St. Petersburg
Moving Cannes - preparing for winter
I dig cannes in September. I transplant into large containers or deaf baskets. After two weeks, I cut off the leaves and transfer the plants to the apartment, put them near the balcony door for the winter. Can be stored in this form in the basement.
To prevent the rhizomes from drying out, I pour a glass of water into the "pots" every two weeks. From my own long-term observations I know that before April the cannes will not start growing, the main thing is to maintain moderate soil moisture.
Svetlana SAMOILOVA, garden blogger, Moscow
Roses in the fall - nothing more
Roses, as you know, do not have a dormant period, if the climate permits, they will bloom in December. Therefore, the plants themselves must be prepared for the frost, so that in the spring they leave the forced X "winter vacation" without losses.
At the end of September, I no longer cut the flowers on the beech, but simply pinch off or break the bud so as not to allow new shoots to grow. It is important to give time to ripen the branches that have grown over the summer.
I sharply reduce watering, and after long rains I loosen the soil around the bushes.
In the first autumn month, nitrogen fertilizers are not used as top dressing. I put a potassium-phosphorus complex (or just ash) under each bush and then embed it in the soil.
Natalia POPOVA, plant collector, Volgograd
Pinching roses in autumn
In September for roses, pinch the tops of all young shoots to stop their growth. Do not forget that grafted specimens are more susceptible to low temperatures, therefore, towards the end of the month, they need to be covered with soil, humus or peat in a layer of 8-10 cm, and with the arrival of stable frosts, covered with spruce branches or dry leaves. Polyanthus, miniature, floribunda and climbing roses need less careful shelter, and park roses do not need it at all - hilling is enough.
Maria MOROZOVA, agronomist, Smolensk. Photo by Tatiana SANCHUK
How to put things in order in a flower garden
With the arrival of autumn, I remove the remnants of annuals in the flower beds and burn them. For disinfection, I spill the soil with a solution of the drug "Fitosporin" (according to the instructions). But I grind the marigolds and embed them in the ground for digging - these charming flowers scare off pests wintering in flower beds.
In perennials, I regularly remove wilted flowers or inflorescences, dry, yellowed and diseased stems and leaves. In plants with leafy flowering stems (phlox, lily, rudbeckia) I cut off the upper part with faded flowers to the first healthy large leaf. In inhabitants of flower beds with a root rosette of leaves that have bare stems (daylily, astilbe, hosta), I cut these stems to the base, going a little deeper into the outlet.
Marina ZUBKO, experienced florist
Your flower seeds: picking in September
On the last warm days, I collect seeds from faded perennials and annuals (alissum, violets, anemones, perennial asters, berry, crocus, swimsuit, daylily, rejuvenated, primroses) and immediately sow them in open ground. I noticed that plants from seeds sown before winter are more resistant to the vagaries of the weather and practically do not get sick.
Inna KOSTITSKAYA, plant collector
Flower feeding in September
The brightest of the perennials blooming in September are chrysanthemums, dahlias, phloxes, autumn gel-nium, rudbeckia, and autumn aster. To give them strength and prolong the holiday of flowering, on a warm, fine day, water the plants with a solution of fertilizers (25 g of superphosphate, 1 tablespoons of potassium magnesium and 5 g of boric acid per 2 liters of water). Make sure that the dressing does not get on the leaves and flowers, otherwise burns will form.
Elena ISAEVA, agronomist, St. Petersburg
We rejuvenate peonies at the beginning of autumn
It's time to divide the old herbaceous peony bushes. Cut all the stems of the plant by a third. Dig up the bush carefully and rinse the rhizome under running water. With a sharp knife, divide into parts with 3-5 buds each. Powder the sections with wood ash if desired. When planting delenoks (in pits about half a meter in diameter), deepen the upper bud by 3-4 cm. For the winter planting, mulch it with compost or peat.
Irina GURIEVA, researcher sotr. FNTS them. I. V. Michurina, Michurinsk
Autumn care of the distance
Before the onset of frost, the dahlia bushes, or dahlias, still bloom well, and early punching is undesirable for them. The tubers should grow normally and mature in the ground, because only under this condition will they be well stored in winter.
In mid-September, I cut off the leaves at the bottom of the stems, exposing them. This procedure promotes better ripening of shoots and tubers.
To prolong flowering and keep the flower beds well-groomed, drying dahlia heads must be removed.
Before the onset of significant frosts (in our country they usually happen in mid-October), I sprinkle the bushes with earth. In this case, the root collar with renewal buds and the lower part of the stems should be covered.
Natalia POPOVA, collector, Voronezh. Photo by Valentina BONDAR
Make time for lilies in the fall
The beginning of autumn is the best time for planting and transplanting lilies. Now there is enough heat and moisture without any watering. I plant my beauties usually in September or early October, and they always manage to take root well. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulbs (large - deeper, small - closer to the surface of the earth) and the density of the soil, which must be sufficient to form sub-bulbous and supra-bulbous roots (not in all types of lilies). It is recommended to plant to a depth 3-5 times the height of the bulb.
Don't plant sprout bulbs - it's risky. I had an experience when I bought lilies at a sale. Though deeply planted, most of them died. Plant these plants in large pots and place them in a cold cellar, and in the early spring, plant them in the ground. This way they have a better chance of surviving. Or try using it for distillation.
Examine the onion well. If there are any rotten spots, remove them to healthy tissue. Cover the cut points with brilliant green and dry.
For the prevention of diseases, keep the bulb in a solution of a fungicide, for example - Maxim "or" Fundazol "(according to the instructions). You can also treat in a solution of any root formation stimulant.
Handle carefully with the roots that are on the bottom - the flower really needs them, because the task of the bulb in the fall is to root well in order to overwinter.
On heavy soil, it is better to add sand to each hole under the bottom.
Planting, usual for bulbous - without the use of manure. I definitely make tags: I write the grade on the foil, fold it into a tube and put it on a used felt-tip pen, fix it next to the lily.
Irina LUKSHITS, plant collector
Asters: winter sowing is my secret
Usually, the seeds of annual asters are sown in the spring, in April (by seedling and seedling methods), but I do it in late autumn. With this method, the plants are more hardy and get sick less.
Before the frost, I dig not too deep grooves in the soil, but as the ground freezes (October-November), I sow seeds in them and fill them with soil.
It is important to choose the moment when a stable subzero temperature is established and thaws are no longer expected.
Only such conditions will allow the seeds to normally go into winter. If they hatch in the warmth and then grow, then most will die in severe frosts (especially if there is still no snow cover).
I collect the seeds myself: when the inflorescences dry and a white fluff appears on them, I cut them off and dry them, kneading them with my hands. For sowing, I take only fresh seeds, because after two years their germination will decrease by about half.
Maria GUZENKO, Stavropol cut
Preparing mallow for wintering
A friend once said that the mallow (stock-rose) is not so beautiful to let her into her garden. But there are amazing varieties with bright textured flowers!
In the fall, it's time to prepare an unpretentious flower for wintering. As the entire above-ground part of the mallow fades, I cut the plant almost to the root with a sharp pruner - I leave only a small stump. When it gets colder (usually in October-November), I mulch the base of the bush with a thick layer of dry leaves. You can also use humus or peat. I additionally cover young plants and varietal stock-roses with double flowers with spruce branches, since in a snowless winter they can freeze a little.
I recommend paying attention to the mallow. Summer Carnival is my favorite variety. A mixture of perennials of various colors with large leaves and unusual flowers looks great on flower beds, suitable for decorating walls, hedges and gazebos. The height of each plant reaches 1,5 m.
Preparation for winter of hibiscus, spirea and buddlea
With the arrival of autumn, I pay special attention to the edge of flowering shrubs, because as you prepare the plants for wintering, they will begin a new season.
My hibiscus has compact, beautifully shaped crowns. in September I give them a haircut. I remove all thin growth around the main trunk, dry, damaged branches growing inside the bush. I shorten the remaining healthy, strong shoots by almost half - thanks to this simple technique, the hibiscus will bloom profusely next year.
After pruning, I water the shrub with settled water and feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (according to the instructions).
Summer flowering spireas
During flowering (it falls at the beginning of July), I regularly cut off wilted inflorescences from spirits, so by autumn they are again covered with chic "panicles". In September, you should not approach the shrub with a pruner: the inflorescences of the summer-flowering spirea appear on the shoots of this year, which means that pruning is best done in early spring (in April). But if I notice dry, damaged branches in a plant, I get rid of them without delay.
The Buddha of David
From July to September my buddleya of David blooms. In order to enjoy its beauty as long as possible, I cut off wilted inflorescences in a timely manner.
I prepare the plant for wintering like this. After flowering, I cut off the buddleya, leaving shoots no more than 10 cm.Then I put arcs 20-25 cm high above the bush, cover it with spunbond on top.
With the arrival of stable frosts, I sprinkle the shelter with hay or dry leaves.
© Author: Victoria EVGLEVSKAYA, Zaporozhye
Calla lilies home before winter!
It's no secret that exotic calla lilies love warmth and sun. Therefore, but in the winter I gouge out the tubers of flowers so that frost does not damage them. In September, on a warm, fine day, I carefully remove the plants with a pitchfork from the ground. Gently free the rhizome from the earthen lump, rinse it under running water and put it on a paper towel to dry a little. I do not cut the foliage of the plant. I cover the bottom of the box with newspaper, put the callas in one layer and take them to the basement. I keep the exotic there for up to two weeks at a temperature of + 5-1 5 degrees. During this time, all the nutrients will have time to pass from the leaves to the tubers. Then I remove all dried leaves and roots with a sharp pruner.
I put the tubers in a paper bag with holes for ventilation and store at the same temperature until spring.
WORKS IN A FLOWER IN SEPTEMBER - VIDEO
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