Growing strawberries from A to Z - planting and care (Belgorod region)
Contents ✓
- ✓ DO NOT BE MISTAKE WITH THE AGE OF STRAWBERRY!
- ✓ STRAWBERRY - EITHER SEEDLING OR HARVEST
- ✓ WHAT TO CHOOSE STRAWBERRY VARIETY?
- ✓ AREA STRAWBERRY
- ✓ ABOUT RESERVATION OF STRAWBERRY VARIETIES.
- ✓ PLANTING STRAWBERRY
- ✓ SUPPORTING STRAWBERRY
- ✓ STRAWBERRY: TO MOW OR NOT TO MOW?
- ✓ STRAWBERRY FOR BEGINNERS FROM A TO Z - VIDEO
CULTIVATION OF STRAWBERRY: WHAT VARIETIES, LANDING, FEEDING, ETC. A. GRANKIN'S ADVICE
I have been growing strawberries (garden strawberries) for about 20 years. Now I have 120 most promising varieties of this crop. Many were obtained from private breeders in Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan. Let's look at three main questions.
How do the newest varieties differ from the old ones?
First of all, they are characterized by a higher resistance to pests and diseases. As a rule, they have erect peduncles. Their fruits are sweeter, more aromatic, larger. Productivity: 1, 5-2 kg from each bush. Finally, outwardly they are much more attractive.
How do the varieties of the industrial group differ from the dessert ones?
The task of the former (most often frigo) is to have an aesthetic appearance and high transportability in order to withstand long-term transportation to the place of trade and the sale process itself, without losing its presentation.
Such varieties are characterized by tough pulp, low juiciness and sugar content, they have practically no aroma. Strawberries like this are often found in supermarkets: tough, dry and not particularly sweet.
Summer residents are more suitable for the varieties of the dessert group. Their organoleptic characteristics are much higher: the fruits are sweeter, more aromatic, juicier, but they are not very transportable - a day or two for transportation. For this reason, dessert varieties are extremely rare on farms where berries are grown for sale.
Why do you need to periodically renew strawberries in your backyards?
The fact is that only up to three years of age the bushes of garden strawberry give the maximum yield, then the yield decreases significantly. You cannot take a mustache from such bushes, since the reproductive age of these plants is about three years.
If 20 strawberry bushes in your garden yield less than a bucket of berries, they should be replaced with new ones. No agricultural practices will help in this case, you will only waste your time!
It makes sense to purchase the newest varieties, but keep in mind: strawberry whiskers received from neighbors, colleagues, acquaintances, as a rule, are also unproductive.
Indeed, more often than not, even very good and kind neighbors give away mustaches from the beds, which they themselves dig up due to the decreased productivity (they are more than three years old). And even if the mustaches from such beds look quite normal, their yield will still be very low, since they are taken from degenerated bushes.
To grow a good strawberry, you need quality outlets.: Strawberries are propagated by whiskers, and their main element is rosettes. Producers get them from mother plants, and this is the main problem.
It is important that all flower stalks are removed from the mother plant that gives the mustache for seedlings, since the berries take the vitality of the plants. Only then can you get rosettes that will give life to powerful bushes with large berries.
Another success factor is the age of the mother plant: you cannot take rosettes from bushes older than three years. How to grow a strawberry bush from an outlet?
Many gardeners propagate garden strawberries with whiskers (rosettes). This is a really easy and quick way to get a new hive. But there are three important points that, if ignored, will have a bad effect on the future harvest.
See also: Do I need to cut off the strawberry leaves in the fall? My observations and responses (Sverdlovsk)
DO NOT BE MISTAKE WITH THE AGE OF STRAWBERRY!
You can grow strawberries of any kind in one place for three years. You can leave this bed for the fourth year, but as soon as you pick the berries, dig up immediately.
Mustaches are suitable for reproduction only from the beds of the second and third year of planting, do not take sockets from four-year-old plants - this is already a waste material.
STRAWBERRY - EITHER SEEDLING OR HARVEST
As a rule, you can try the harvest the next year after planting strawberries in the garden. But here the summer resident must decide for himself: either he picks berries, or grows seedlings for reproduction.
For cultivation of garden strawberries, I advise you to set aside a place for a mother bed on the site, on the plants of which there should be no flowers or berries. Only a mustache! But their number also needs to be normalized, otherwise they can form a huge number of outlets, and this will greatly weaken the mother plant. As a result, the outlets themselves will be weak and in the future will not be able to give you the yields that you expect.
Based on my "strawberry" experience, I recommend leaving 5-10 rosettes (not a mustache!) On each mother plant. Suppose a mother plant produces 12 whiskers. Your task is to completely remove two whiskers, and leave only the first sockets on the rest. Again, there should be no more than 10 sockets on one powerful bush. Better three or five.
When buying seedlings, ask: how old is the mother plant and did it give berries in the season of receiving rosettes? If the bush is more than three years old or it also gave berries during the season of receiving outlets, it is better to refuse such a purchase.
WHAT TO CHOOSE STRAWBERRY VARIETY?
Conservative summer residents naively believe that the best varieties are Festivalnaya, Gigantella, Pineapple, Ruby pendant and no new items can replace them. Such a conviction can only cause a smile, because a reasonable question arises: if these varieties are the best, why do breeders around the world spend so much effort, time and money to get new ones?
I also once raised the aforementioned "oldies", and today I can say with confidence that the best of the newest varieties are at least (!) Three times more productive, many times sweeter, more aromatic, more resistant to diseases, more transportable and most often more powerful erect peduncles.
I highly recommend to everyone: buy mustache strawberries only new modern varieties... Don't be afraid of new products!
Remember: always in the first place in agriculture is the variety, the second is care, the third is the soil. And there is no other way. There is no good variety - no matter how hard you work, do not expect a high harvest!
Judge for yourself: if the variety was not decisive, then, say, the use of 1 kg of fertilizer would give 5 buckets of strawberries from a certain garden, 2 kg of fertilizer - 10 buckets, 3 kg - 15, etc. But this does not happen!
Each variety has a certain yield, taste, aroma, etc., which cannot be exceeded by the simplified influence of agricultural technology. Excessive application of fertilizing, you will most likely burn the bushes, but you will not get a significant increase in yield. A shepherd will never grow out of a lapdog, no matter how much it is fed. Conversely, if a shepherd puppy is poorly fed, it will still be larger than a well-groomed lapdog. Because it's all about the breed (in relation to plants - in the variety).
Take note: here are just some of the newest, including the author's high-yielding (up to 2 kg per bush) varieties of garden strawberries with amazing sweetness, bright strawberry aroma, erect peduncles and large (up to 80 g) berries: Chanel, Kremlin, Delight, Jasmine, Early Bird, Grant 2, Pomegranate, Duchess, Shahinya, Royal Ruby, Voluptuousness, Honeymoon.
AREA STRAWBERRY
Zoning in the sense of cold is important only for those garden plants (apple, pear, plum, etc.), some of which are above the snow cover for a long time in severe frosts.
Strawberry bushes, as a rule, are under the snow, the temperature under which is almost the same in different regions, and can freeze out only with prolonged exposure to severe frosts in the snowless, and even then if they are not covered. And the effect of heat or air humidity has almost no strong effect on strawberry varieties. In addition, now the heat in summer is everywhere - from Rostov almost to Murmansk.
ABOUT RESERVATION OF STRAWBERRY VARIETIES.
Pollination in the sense of strawberry degeneration is a myth. You can safely plant different varieties nearby. Yes, the achenes of berries, when pollinated by other varieties, sometimes acquire foreign properties: the berry may have a slightly different color, varieties with pink flowers may become white. BUT! If cross-pollination had a significant effect on a decrease in yield and a decrease in the size of berries, for a long time no one would have had fruitful strawberries anywhere - everything would have degenerated long ago!
In addition, bees carry pollen up to 2 km away. And if the hive is located between two, even significantly distant from each other, plantings, it turns out that different varieties should be placed at a distance of 4 km from each other in order to avoid cross-pollination!
And in general, who said that pollination is negative for strawberries? And if there is a good variety nearby, it turns out that it can “improve” its “bad” neighbor? But this also does not happen! So it's time to put an end to the fairy tales about the cross-pollination of strawberries.
PLANTING STRAWBERRY
It is necessary to plant strawberries in a sunny place in one line according to the scheme: distance in a row is 25-30 cm, between rows - 60-70 cm.
When planting, you need to put 8 g of special fertilizer for strawberries in each hole, or better - two handfuls of humus, a handful of wood ash, a handful of sand (if the soil is not sandy loam) and mix thoroughly with the underlying soil. Make a depression, lower the root of the plant into it, cover it with soil and squeeze the ground from the sides and bottom at the location of the root system. Moreover, the growth point after planting should be at soil level. Water abundantly.
After planting in hot weather, shade the entire plant from the southern side with slate, a plank for 7-10 days, mulch the soil with humus, sawdust, straw, peat, grass. Watering the first three days - twice a day, the next four days - once a day, then it is necessary to water every other day until complete survival or heavy rain. After a week, pour half a liter per bush with a root stimulator (5 g per 5 l).
SUPPORTING STRAWBERRY
Top dressing at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m landings (cap of a plastic bottle or 1 tsp. - 8 g, matchbox - 20 g).
1. As soon as the snow melted - with pure nitrogen fertilizer (urea, ammonium nitrate).
2. At the beginning of flowering - a commercial fertilizer for strawberries.
3. During the period of mass filling of berries - by him.
4. Through 7-14 days after harvest - by him.
Store-bought fertilizer for strawberries can be replaced with nitrophos, ammo-foss. But the best results are obtained by root dressing with such compositions:
Mullein (2 liters per 8 liters of water) + 8 g of double superphosphate;
· 1 kg of yeast per 5 l of water: fermentation duration - 7 days. Then dilute half a liter of mash in! 0 liters of water and pour half a liter of bushes under the bush;
· Fill any plastic container with weeds and fill with water for 7 days. Dilute 1 liter of solution in 10 liters of water and water the bushes in 0 liters.
Any dressing must be washed off the leaves with water! A month and a half before winter, we stop all feeding.
Watering: in hot sunny weather, starting with mass flowering and ending with mass ripening of berries, every other day. In cool or cloudy weather - as needed. We stop watering in late autumn.
STRAWBERRY: TO MOW OR NOT TO MOW?
Complete mowing of the leaves is not required, but if necessary, it should be done 7-14 days after harvest. Later - to the detriment. Because strawberries with new leaves should lay flower buds of next year's harvest. On the eve of winter, remove diseased and old leaves, dig up the aisles.
At the beginning of spring, it is necessary to remove excess bushes and old leaves, level the aisles dug up in autumn with a rake. Timely remove the mustache, loosen the soil, pick ripe berries and remove diseased plants from the garden.
And more from my observations. In winter, only overfed, or old, or weakened bushes, or those left sick in the winter, freeze out or are strongly squeezed out of the ground. Strong, healthy shrubs almost never freeze in winter. But for reliability, you can cover the bed with covering material over the bushes. Do not put a shelter on the arches: the landings may freeze out!
We will talk about pests and diseases of strawberries next time.
See also: Strawberries-strawberries - planting and care from A to Z
STRAWBERRY FOR BEGINNERS FROM A TO Z - VIDEO
© Author: Anatoly Grigorievich GRANKIN. Stary Oskol
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My grandmother started growing strawberries, then my mother, and from them I learned various tricks. We collect ripe berries in buckets, because we know: August is the time for planting and transplanting strawberries.
The most important thing is not to plant this berry in the place where potatoes used to grow. Many years ago, my grandmother made this mistake, and the strawberries immediately began to hurt and almost all died. Then they found out from knowledgeable people that it turned out to be wilt - parasitic fungi. Then, also from our own experience, we learned that strawberries do not grow well after cucumbers and tomatoes. That's how trial and error gradually gained knowledge.
3a two weeks before planting strawberries, I remove the entire crop from the beds on which I am going to plant them. I dig up the earth and level it, if this place turns out to be in a lowland, then I make high ridges, otherwise the berries will begin to rot first, and then the whole plant.
It is very good if it is possible to enclose the ridges with boards - then the earth does not crumble and the view turns out to be “civilized”.
In autumn, I don’t fertilize the beds with manure, but I add wood ash or dolomite flour. And I sprinkle coarse sand on top so that slugs and snails do not breed in the ground. I choose a cloudy day for transplants and plantings, because if the sun is bright, strawberry bushes and mustaches quickly wither and may not take root. After planting, be sure to water well.
If everything is done correctly, by the winter you will already have a good bush, and next year, in the summer, you will reap a wonderful harvest from these young bushes.