5 reasons why roses die in winter - tips from an agronomist
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WHY ROSES LET IN WINTER
Rose is a rather difficult plant to care for, requiring a lot of knowledge and experience. But perhaps there is not a single grower who would be stopped by this circumstance. Let's try to consider the most common mistakes in planting and autumn agricultural techniques of roses, which can cause their death.
1. LOW FROST RESISTANCE OF ROSE PLANT
Each group of roses has a certain frost resistance. In the order of its increase, roses can be arranged as follows: standard - climbing - hybrid tea - floribunda - grandiflora - miniature - ground cover - English - shrubs - polyanthus, park.
But of course, there are exceptions in every group. Therefore, when choosing a plant, it is safer to focus on the winter hardiness zone indicated in its description. For central Russia, roses intended for the 3rd zone of winter hardiness are well suited. They do not freeze even in severe winters without shelter.
But these plants include mainly wild roses, close to wild rose. Roses, recommended for the 4th zone of winter hardiness, winter without bending over and shelter, rarely freeze. Roses of the 4-5th zone are medium-hardy. They winter well when pruned to snow level or minimal shelter.
2. INCORRECT ROSE PLANTING
Rose is a sun-loving plant. But the best place for her will be the one that is illuminated by the sun only in the morning. Roses cannot be planted in the vicinity of powerful shrubs (lilacs, chubushniki, etc.) and trees, it should not compete for food and water.
It is desirable that at the planting site there is a low standing of groundwater, since the root system of the rose is pivotal and suffers greatly from flooding.
Do I need to deepen the vaccine? This issue is controversial. In the suburbs and more northern regions, it is imperative to deepen the vaccination. In the Krasnodar Territory, you can do without deepening. An important point is how much to deepen? David Austin, an English rose breeder, named 2-3 inches (i.e. up to 7 cm). But for heavy loamy soils this is a lot, 3 cm will be optimal. The arguments that the rose hip, on which the rose is grafted, will begin to grow and strangle the rose are not entirely correct. The shoots will grow anyway. It will have to be removed periodically, there is nothing complicated about it. It is advisable only not to cut off the shoots, but to twist them, so as not to stimulate greater growth. In addition, after 3 years, the rose will begin to take its roots. This moment can be traced by digging a little in the ground.
3. LATE FEEDING OF ROSES
It must be remembered that all nitrogen fertilization must be stopped before the beginning of August. In August, you can once again pamper the rose with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, so that the lignification of the shoots occurs more quickly and the plant prepares for winter. But since September, it is better to exclude all feeding.
See also: Spring pruning and top dressing of roses. What if the roses froze in winter?
4. INCORRECT CUTTING
Cropping is also a controversial issue. There are adherents of strong pruning and those who, on the contrary, prune little or no roses at all. Nevertheless, you need to prune the plant both in autumn and spring! In the fall, after pruning, the root system continues to grow, which makes the shrub stronger. In addition, cut roses are easier to cover.
Pruning should only be started when the temperature has consistently dropped below zero. If you start the procedure earlier, this will provoke the awakening of dormant buds, and young shoots will not survive frost, which will weaken the rose.
When pruning, an even cut is made above the growth buds at an angle of 45 ° with an offset of 5 mm. Such buds are located in the leaf axils and are clearly visible after the foliage has fallen off. The kidney should be on the outside. Sections are treated with garden varnish or other disinfecting putty.
First, pruning is carried out common for all groups of roses. Remove all young branches that have not matured (they have a red tint and thin light green leaves, which only thicken the bush). Damaged, diseased shoots are cut off. All dead shoots are removed until a white core appears on the cut. Remove old shoots that are more than 5 years old. After pruning, all leaves must be removed, as they are carriers of infection and can rot when sheltered.
Then pruning is carried out in accordance with the group of roses. Roses can be conditionally divided into 3 groups, depending on which shoots flower buds are formed on. Each group has an individual fall pruning system.
The first group includes: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, lianthus, patio and hybrid roses. They have flower buds on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, in the fall, they can be pruned like this: in tall species, about 30 cm are left above the soil, and in miniature ones - about 15 cm. Floribunda needs a combined pruning. Weakly, about 1/3, prune annual stems to obtain early flowering, and prune two-year shoots vigorously (2/3) in order to stimulate the growth of basal shoots of renewal and obtain later flowering. Some of these types of roses are quite thermophilic, and thanks to short pruning, they will be easy to cover for the winter.
In the second group of roses (climbing, ramblers and flamentants), flower buds form on the shoots of the second year. The shoots that have grown over the summer are not cut off at all or only slightly shortened so that there are no difficulties with shelter. Scourges older than 3 years old can be cut. The main pruning should be done in the spring, when the condition of the bush after wintering can be assessed.
The third group includes park, large-flowered climbing and shrub (shrubs). In these roses, flowers are formed on almost all shoots, therefore they are preserved as much as possible, cutting out only diseased and dry ones. Roses of this group winter well without shelter, and pruning can only be done in spring. In addition, climbing roses can be attributed here, which also bloom on all shoots repeatedly and for a long time. In this species, you need to monitor the thickening of the plant.
5. UNSUITABLE SHELTER AND UNTIME OPENING OF THE ROSE
Very often in the gardens one can see roses standing alone, wrapped in lutrasil. This is the most improper shelter. There are a few simple rules to help your rose winter well.
If during planting the graft was deepened, then after pruning and the onset of a stable temperature below zero, the rose must be spud to a height of about 10 cm (best with non-acidic peat). If the rose is planted shallow, then spud 15 cm.For frost-resistant roses, this will already be enough.
For thermophilic spray roses, you can build a shelter, preferably cone-shaped, which is covered with a double layer of lutrasil. If warm weather returns, the shelter should be opened from below.
A little more time is needed to cover the climbing roses. Before the onset of frost, even at above-zero temperatures, the shoots of roses, peeled from foliage, are bent to the ground so that they do not lie on it. To secure them, you can use, for example, iron hooks made of thick wire. For convenience, you can tie the roses with a rope in several places. Then a shelter is made over the plants in the form of a triangular tunnel. If a climbing rose is entwined around an arch, then it can be insulated directly on the support. But the shelter (spruce branches, lutrasil, burlap) should not adhere to the plant.
Until the ground thaws and the roots begin to work, the roses should be under a shelter that protects from sunlight and return frosts. It is very convenient if the bottom part of the shelter rises. This will help prevent overheating during the daytime. After completely removing the shelter, the roses should be treated with special preparations for diseases, a Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
Reference by topic: How to properly prepare roses for winter: personal experience and expert reviews
IF THE ROSE SEEDLING IS BLACK AFTER WINTER - HOW TO HELP THE FLOWER? VIDEO
© Author: A. PETRUNIA, agronomist
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Blue and blue roses - varieties and my reviews about them
- Care for climbing roses in spring
- Roses in the Garden - Care Tips
- How to choose the right seedlings of roses - reviews and tips of EXPERTS
- Features of spring pruning of roses - photo
- Propagation of roses - Cuttings or seedlings?
- Is it necessary to spud roses before wintering + other answers about their preparation for frost
- If the roses after wintering under shelter fell ill - “got wet”
- Repeated flowering of roses and its extension - tips
- Care for roses in early spring
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