Blueberries (photo) - planting and care, reproduction and feeding
Contents ✓
INSTRUCTIONS FOR GROWING BLUEBERRY
TAMING THE DOUBLE
The speech, of course, will go NOT ABOUT THE MOTTED BLUE, BUT ABOUT THE TALL BLUE, or, as it recently began to be called, "garden". Despite the fact that both blueberry varieties and it itself appeared in culture relatively recently, it has been known for hundreds of years and was harvested in the wild in tsarist Russia. The fact is that the berry is not only tasty, it is also extremely useful.
TALL BLUEBERRY: WHAT WE KNOW ABOUT IT
The tall blueberry is a fairly large shrub, easily reaching a height of 2 m, although it does not have the signs of a tree, which are characteristic of, say, irge or chokeberry.
The color of tall blueberry berries is light or dark blue, they are flattened like tomatoes from above and below, easily separated from the shoots, with a very dense skin and a stem less than a centimeter long.
Today in Russia there are six varieties of blueberries. it Aurora, Bluecrop, Draper, Duke, Liberty (fruit weight on average 2,1 g), Huron (up to 2,6 g).
See also: Tall blueberries (photo) planting and care.
SEEDLINGS
When buying seedlings, given that it is better to plant blueberries in spring, carefully examine the shoots and roots for drying or freezing. They must be alive. In blueberries, even if the shoot or root is bent harder, they do not break, but bend.
ATTENTION
We strongly recommend purchasing all varieties not on the market from hand, but in the nursery, where you will definitely be sold the blueberry variety you are interested in, and not the seedling of that "variety" that you name.
After purchasing, ask the roots of the seedling to be dipped in a clay mash. After that, it is advisable to sprinkle them with sawdust, and then place them in a bag - you can put it in a regular garbage bag, it is dense and does not transmit light.
See also: Humates for blueberries = harvest
BLUEBERRY HIGH: LANDING
Tall blueberries love acidic soil and if they grow on black soil, it will be very bad.
To make blueberries as good as possible, a mixture of peat and turf with a pH of 3,5-4,5 is usually purchased. The mixture is sold in any garden center and is often called "For Blueberries".
This mixture, however, is not eternal: it can be washed away by rain, washed away by irrigation water, and the soil under the blueberries will again become neutral. Therefore, if there is no zone with acidic soil on your piece of land, then you need to go for a trick.
First, you need to dig a hole about a meter deep and 80 cm wide. Lay it with plastic wrap around the edges and even cover the bottom, making three holes in it in the center with a diameter of a couple of centimeters, then fill the hole completely with the mixture "For blueberries", or just acidic soil and compact it well so that after planting there is no soil subsidence ...
The next day, you can start planting. It is better to plant blueberries as they grew in the nursery, without deepening or raising the seedling above the soil surface. But if you are not planting in soil specially acquired for planting blueberries, but simply on acidic soil, then the root collar can be deepened by a couple of centimeters.
When planting, it is necessary to do so that the roots are located in the hole freely, do not bend at critical angles, do not lift up, do not break. The seedling is planted, now it needs to be watered with a bucket of water and mulched with peat.
BLUEBERRY TALL: CARE
Immediately after planting, blueberries can be treated with 1% boron board liquid to prevent fungal diseases. And to do this every year in the spring - it certainly won't be worse.
Watering blueberries, contrary to common misconception, is not needed so often. A bucket of water twice a week will be enough (if it is not raining).
It is better to loosen the soil after heavy rain or watering so that a soil crust does not form, because blueberries prefer loose soil.
By the way, loosening can be combined with removing weeds. It is especially good to fight them after rain or watering - they are saturated with moisture and are easily cut off from the soil surface or pulled out from most of the root if you fly with your hands.
If we talk about fertilizers, then under the blueberries, nevertheless, many advise to apply them in dissolved form.
In the spring - classic nitroammophoska. A tablespoon diluted in a bucket of water is enough for 5-6 bushes up to five years old and for a couple of older bushes.
This fertilizer should be applied in early spring, as soon as the leaves bloom.
During the flowering period, it is permissible to treat blueberries with a solution of boric acid. To do this, an ordinary medical bottle of boric acid must be dissolved in a bucket of water, filled with a spray bottle with a solution and treated with flowers, slightly moistening them. This stimulates the pollen sensitivity of the pistils, and the set will be better.
After flowering, as soon as the ovary begins to form, the plants need to be fed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate, also dissolved in water. The norms for both are 5 g per bucket of water. This volume is enough for 5-6 bushes of any age.
After harvesting, it is undesirable to feed blueberries, but it is worth giving it to drink by pouring 4-5 buckets of water under each adult bush and half as much under a young one (under five years old).
Blueberries ripen in the midst of summer, so do not delay picking them: during this period it is hot, and they may dry out slightly, their wonderful taste will be lost.
BTW
Blueberries - thanks to their relatively thick skin - can be transported far, but they are not stored for very long, only 10-12 days. So either eat it fresh, freeze it, or process it. By the way: before, blueberries were candied, and then they could be stored for up to two years - this is an extraordinary delicacy!
See also: Blueberries (photo) varieties, planting and berry care on the site - tips for \ s \ x sciences
BLUEBERRY TALL: CULTIVATION ERRORS ON VIDEO
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