Conifers for the garden (photo) compact, weeping, creeping and columnar
Contents ✓
- ✓ CHOICE OF CONIFEROUS PLANT FOR PLANTING IN THE GARDEN
- ✓ COMPACT CONIFE
- ✓ Weeping conifers
- ✓ FLUSHING CONIFEROUS PLANTS
- ✓ COLUMN-SHAPED CONIFEROUS PLANTS
- ✓ CORRECT LANDING OF CONIFERS
- ✓ REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS PLANTS
- ✓ REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS SEEDS
- ✓ REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS CUTLES
- ✓ USEFUL NEIGHBORHOOD FOR CONIFERS
- ✓ GROWING CONIFEROUS PLANTS IN A GARDEN AND THEIR PLACE IN DESIGN
- ✓ CONIFEROUS PLANTS IN GARDEN DESIGN - VIDEO
CONIFEROUS PLANTS - SPECIES, LANDING AND REPRODUCTION
Plants of four seasons - so often called conifers, filling the garden with life throughout the year.
In winter, they create the basic structure of the garden, delight with their transformation under the snowy clothes.
And on a fine summer day, their presence is unmistakably guessed even with closed eyes by the aroma exuded by the needles.
Evergreen beauties are able to give any site nobility and grace.
CHOICE OF CONIFEROUS PLANT FOR PLANTING IN THE GARDEN
Numerous decorative forms of conifers are distinguished by a variety of crowns, color and structure of needles. Even at the stage of selection, many questions arise: will the plant be stable in our climate, how to create optimal conditions for its development ... And perhaps one of the most important questions of concern to gardeners is what the coniferous plant will become in a few years.
See also: Coniferous trees and shrubs in the garden: planting and care
COMPACT CONIFE
Low-growing conifers will fit perfectly even in a small garden.
Mountain pine Pug (Mops) at the age of 10-15 years reaches 40-50 cm in height. The diameter of the symmetrical spherical or flattened-spherical dense crown of an adult plant is slightly more than 50 cm.This dwarf shrub grows slowly, the annual growth is not more than 4-5 cm.Skeletal branches grow evenly, depart at an angle and are directed up and to the sides. Pine needles are short, hard, dark green in color (young growth is slightly lighter).
The plant has high winter hardiness (zone 3), light-requiring, in the shade, the branches are strongly extended to the sides, the crown becomes loose. It is undemanding to soils; any moderately nutritious and moist garden soils are suitable for it.
Can be used for landscaping alpine slides, often planted against retaining walls, along garden paths, suitable for growing in containers.
Thuja western Danica (Danica) by 10-15 years grows up to 30 cm in height, at a more mature age, the growth can be about 1 m.The diameter of the crown is usually equal to or slightly more than the height. During the year, the plant adds about 7-8 cm.
Skeletal branches branch strongly, departing from the center at different angles (some directed to the sides, others - to the sides and up), short and tightly pressed against each other. Danica grows evenly. At a young age, the crown of the plant is spherical, then it begins to spread out slightly in breadth, acquiring the shape of a flattened ball. The deep green soft needles become darker in winter.
The plant loves light, but develops well in shaded areas. Nutritious, well-moistened soils are best suited for Danica. The plant belongs to the 3rd zone of winter hardiness. Suitable for growing in containers, most decorative when planted in small groups.
Norway spruce Echiniformis at the age of 10 can reach 30-50 cm in height. This dwarf garden form has been known in culture for over 150 years. The diameter of the crown of an adult plant is about 50 cm. It grows very slowly, adding 1,5-2 cm per year.
The branches are rigid, thick, short, forming a rounded or cushion-shaped asymmetrical crown. The spruce needles are very prickly, hard, up to 1,5 cm long, light green with a yellowish or grayish-yellow tint. Young growths practically do not differ in color from last year's.
Ehiniformis can grow both in open areas and in shade. The soil must be well drained. Since the roots are shallow, the spruce does not tolerate compaction of the upper layers of the soil, it prefers moderate moisture. Refers to the 2nd zone of winter hardiness. Can be used for growing in containers.
Weeping conifers
Such a plant always attracts the eye and arouses admiration, so it should take the most ceremonial place in the garden.
Pendula Pine is a short tree, usually barely reaching 1,5 meters in height. Moreover, the crown diameter is always greater than the height, in some cases significantly.
It grows rapidly, adding 18-20 cm per year. Long, thin, moderately branching shoots lag far behind each other and grow unevenly from the center of the plant. The crown of the pine is asymmetric, weeping, the branches are curved in an arcuate manner and hang down, touching the ground or even spreading along it. Long thin needles have a bluish-green color; on young shoots they are slightly lighter.
The plant is optimally suited for open, sunlit areas and light nutritious soils with moderate moisture and good drainage. Refers to the 3rd zone of winter hardiness.
Due to its unusual appearance, Pendula pine looks advantageous in single plantings in open areas of the garden.
Reference by topic: Types of coniferous plants for the garden - planting and care, photo, name description
FLUSHING CONIFEROUS PLANTS
Spread, undersized, spreading conifers can be used to fill large spaces, cover the soil between large plants.
Juniper ordinary Hornibrookii (Hornibrookii) in 10-15 years grows in height up to 80 cm.The diameter of the crown is 1,5-2 m.Differs in rapid growth, adding 15-17 cm per year.
The shoots of the plant are thick, long, creeping, the ends are slightly raised. Branches from the center of the bush grow unevenly, and the crown forms an asymmetric, pillow-shaped shape. The needles are dense, very thick, dense, prickly, light green in color. Fruits, large gray cones, are formed on the plant in large quantities.
This juniper is photophilous, when planted in the shade, it strongly stretches the shoots, and the crown becomes loose. Prefers moderately moist and nutritious soils. Tolerates a haircut well. Plant winter hardiness is high (zone 3). Can be used as a ground cover shrub for landscaping slopes, decorating retaining walls.
Common juniper Repanda is a dwarf shrub up to 0,5 m tall. The crown diameter is about 2 m.
The annual growth is 5-7 cm.
Skeletal shoots of the plant are thick and long, with strong branching. The branches are evenly spaced from the center of the bush and grow in a circle, as a result a symmetrical creeping crown of a cushion shape is formed. The needles are dense, sickle-shaped, soft, about 2 cm long, colored dark green.
The plant is light-requiring, but tolerates light shading. Almost any moderately nutritious and moist soil, except for heavy ones, is suitable. Belongs to the 3rd zone of winter hardiness.
Juniper Cossack Tamariscifolia (Tamariscifolia) by 10-15 years reaches 40 cm in height, while the diameter of the crown can be up to 2,5 m. Characterized by a high annual growth (up to 25 cm).
Skeletal branches are short, slightly curved, their growth is directed to the sides (some go upwards at a slight angle), strong branching is noticeable at the ends. The crown has an irregular shape, dense and spreading, in young plants it is usually rounded, but over time it noticeably flattens, becoming cushion-shaped. At the same time, both needle-shaped and scaly needles are present on one shrub. Its color is dark green with a blue stripe on top.
The plant is drought-resistant, photophilous, undemanding to soil, has good winter hardiness (zone 3). Suitable for decorating a rocky garden, for planting along paths, decorating slopes.
Reference by topic: Conifers and shrubs - planting and pruning, varieties and species
COLUMN-SHAPED CONIFEROUS PLANTS
Such plants are suitable for a small garden in which there is no room for spreading crowns. Columnar conifers allow you to create more voluminous compositions.
Thuja western Columna (Columna) reaches a height of about 3 m by the age of 10. The diameter of the crown is about 1,5 m. Growth is relatively fast, the plant adds about 15-17 cm per year.
The trunk of the thuja is straight, even, the branches are short, tightly adjacent to each other, grow evenly, moving away from the trunk almost at a right angle. At the ends, the shoots are slightly twisted. The crown often has several peaks. The needles are small, scaly, shiny, dark green in color, while young growths have a slightly lighter shade.
Thuja grows equally well in sunny and slightly shaded places, it is highly winter-hardy (zone 3). Prefers fertile soil. When planting, it is important to consider that the plant suffers from strong compaction of the upper layer of the earth. Columna can be used to create free-growing hedges.
The common juniper Hibernica at the age of 15-20 years reaches a height of about 2 m.The diameter of the crown does not exceed 80 cm.The annual growth is small - about 5-7 cm.
Thin straight branches are tightly pressed against each other, grow to the sides and are directed upward at an acute angle. The crown is formed symmetrical, even and very dense. Short, sharp at the ends, but soft needles have a bluish-green color. Young growths are effectively distinguished by a grassy green tint.
Juniper Hibernik can grow in the shade, but in such conditions it loses the blue tint of the needles. The plant is undemanding to soils, it is able to develop well even on rocky and sandy soils. It is characterized by good winter hardiness (zone 2-3). The plant is often used to create free-growing and sheared hedges, as well as to decorate rocky gardens.
Scotch pine Fastigiata by the age of 15 can reach a height of 4 m.The maximum crown diameter is 1,5 m.It grows quickly, adding 15-18 cm per year, sometimes the annual growth can be up to 25 cm. straight skeletal branches with moderate branching are directed vertically upward, grow evenly, tightly adhering to each other and to an even trunk. The very dense, narrow crown has a clear silhouette. The needles are sickle-shaped, long, rich green color with a slight bluish tint.
For planting Fastigiata, it is recommended to select bright places, since in the shade the crown loses its density, and the blue shade of the needles disappears. The soil should be loose, light, moist, the plant tolerates well even short-term flooding. Fastigiata belongs to the 3rd zone of winter hardiness. Looks very nice in a single planting in an open place.
Yew berry Fastigiata Robusta (Fastigiata Robusta) is a long-lived plant, at the age of 10-15 years it grows up to 1,2-1,8 m in height, at a more mature age it can reach 3-4 m.Forms a dense columnar crown with a diameter of 0,8 , 1,5 m to XNUMX m.
Numerous short shoots are slightly branched. The wide needle-like needles are curved downward and have a dark green color, the fruits are bright red.
The plant is wind-resistant, able to develop well even on moderately dry, poor, slightly acidic soils. It belongs to the 3rd zone of winter hardiness, but young plants often require shelter from spring burns.
Fastigiata Robusta tolerates a haircut well and is often used to create topiary figures, as well as in hedges to protect the site from wind and dust.
See also: Unusual and very beautiful varieties of conifers for giving - photos and description
CORRECT LANDING OF CONIFERS
The most common cause of death of conifers is associated with improper planting. Another common mistake, which is usually inherent in beginner gardeners: the choice of a plant "tops" without taking into account the state of its root system.
Unfortunately, it is not immediately possible to understand that they made a mistake. Conifers die for a very long time and at first without visible signs.
In a quite strong and cheerful-looking seedling, after 2-3 weeks, the needles may suddenly fade, in a few days you will notice yellowed branches and after a month and a half you will lose the plant. Therefore, the choice of coniferous seedlings and their planting must be approached with all responsibility.
The best option is to purchase conifers with a closed root system (in burlap or container). They can be planted all year round. If planting in a permanent place is carried out during the growing season, then the plant at this time must be provided with abundant watering and shading from the midday sun.
The situation is more complicated with seedlings with an open root system.
IT IS WORTH REMEMBER
After contact with the needles of spruces and junipers, allergic irritation may appear on the skin. To quickly relieve symptoms, you will need to thoroughly wash your hands with soap and cold water and take an antihistamine. But it is best to remember to wear gloves before pruning and planting thorny conifers.
IMPORTANT RECEPTION
To preserve an earthen ball when planting a plant from a container, it is recommended to carry out abundant watering the day before. Immediately before planting, you need to carefully remove the seedling from the container, wrap a lump in burlap and tie it with twine. The roots are released from the packaging only after the plant is placed in the planting pit.
If you take such a plant, carefully examine the earthen ball. Conifers "are friends" with symbiont fungi that live on their roots and help plants to absorb nutrients, grow and develop normally. Therefore, when planting, it is very important to preserve the earthen coma. A bare root system is a serious risk to the life of conifers. Sometimes it happens that the earthen lump has collapsed after the purchase, literally before your eyes. In this case, you need to try to keep the bare roots in a constantly moist state, do not let them dry out for a minute. And just before planting, it will not be superfluous to treat them with root formation stimulants.
The size of the root system is equally important. For example, a root ball with a height of about 2 m should be at least 80 cm, while it is desirable that the top layer of soil with grass be preserved on it.
In the middle lane, conifers with an open root system are recommended to be planted in late April - early May or from mid-August to mid-September. Later autumn periods can lead to secondary growth of shoots, and then the plant will suffer greatly from frost, not having time to prepare for winter.
Most conifers prefer open, well-lit areas and light sandy or loamy soil. The depth of the planting hole should be 20-30 cm more than the root ball, and the width should be 1 5-20 cm wider than it. If the soil is heavy loamy, then it is recommended to fill the planting hole with a mixture of sand, peat and garden soil in equal proportions. You can also add coniferous litter, which will provide the necessary acidification.
When planting a coniferous plant, it is impossible to cover the root collar with soil - the seedling will noticeably lag behind in growth.
Reference by topic: Which conifers to choose? Criteria: shape, winter hardiness, size and beauty in any season
REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS PLANTS
Now on sale you can find a wide variety of garden forms of conifers. But if a large amount of planting material is required (for example, to create hedges), then it makes sense to learn how to propagate your favorite cultivars yourself.
REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS SEEDS
Seed propagation is a fun process. However, it should be borne in mind that the result may not always meet your expectations. On average, only 25-30% of seedlings of garden coniferous forms retain their original varietal characteristics.
In natural conditions, cones in conifers open at the end of autumn (and in some cases even at the beginning of winter), and the seeds fall on damp ground or snow, where they swell, and then freeze and lie in this state until spring. Therefore, for successful seed germination, you will need to repeat this process, that is, subject them to stratification.
Usually, stratification begins in December-January. First, the seeds are soaked in water for a day. For larch, it is recommended to use a 1% solution of lime; it is necessary to keep the seeds in it for about two days. Then the seeds are placed in pots with a wet mixture of sand and peat (vermiculite can be used) and buried in the snow or placed in the refrigerator.
When sowing seeds of spruce, thuja, pine, you can do without stratification, it is recommended to keep them in the refrigerator until spring planting.
In the spring, stratified seeds are planted in open ground or in a greenhouse, embedded in the ground to a depth of 4-5 times their size. Planting is mulched with a 2-3-centimeter layer of sawdust.
Be prepared for the fact that some seedlings (for example, junipers) may not appear soon, not even in the first year. Further care of the plants consists in watering, shading from the bright sun and feeding with special fertilizers for conifers or a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water).
As a rule, already in the second year of plant growth, it is possible to determine what color of needles it will have, and after another 4-5 years the shape of the crown will begin to emerge.
REPRODUCTION OF CONIFEROUS CUTLES
An easier way to propagate conifers is with stem cuttings. The optimum time for propagation of most conifers is late April - early May. Thuja, cypress, juniper and yew can be rooted in June, and spruce and pine are best in autumn, but subject to treatment with growth regulators.
Reference by topic: Reproduction of coniferous cuttings
BEFORE CUTTING
It is important to know that for conifers, the location of the shoots intended for cutting is often important.
The lateral branches of spruce and yew growing in a horizontal direction, when rooting up to 5-7 years, retain their oblique growth. And the apical shoots of these plants practically do not form roots.
It is a little more difficult to get new plants from vigorous apical shoots of thuja than from lateral ones, but these specimens will have an ideal shape.
In pyramidal or equal-vertex coniferous cuttings, taken from the lower branches of a southern, eastern or western orientation, later form plants with a curved trunk. The best cuttings are from the apical lateral shoots in the middle of the crown from the north side.
See also: Three tips agronomist when planting conifers
USEFUL NEIGHBORHOOD FOR CONIFERS
Experiments carried out in the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University. M.V. Lomonosov, showed that conifers rooted better if cuttings of deciduous trees, which easily form roots, are located next to them.
For cuttings, you need to take shoots with a heel - part of the old bark and wood. Therefore, it is most convenient not to cut off the stalk, but to tear it off, if necessary, a too long tail of the bark is cut off. Many conifers secrete resin on the cut surface. To remove it, a freshly cut stalk must be put in water for a couple of hours, and to prevent the spread of fungal infections, it is recommended to keep it in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for 5-6 hours.
It is most convenient to use for rooting greenhouse cuttings. The light in them should be diffused, but bright, since under its influence the phytohormone necessary for root formation is produced in the needles.
A mixture of sand and peat in a 2: 1 ratio or in equal parts is usually used as a substrate. The cuttings are planted at an angle of approximately 45 ° to the soil surface, deepening the lower end by 5-7 cm.
The optimum air temperature for rooting is 21-24 °, and the humidity is 80-100%. Watering is best done by scattering water in small drops. However, excessive moisture should not be allowed in the greenhouse - the cuttings can vanish.
Rooting usually lasts from 1,5 to 4 months, however, it is advisable to plant most conifers in a permanent place only after a year - this way they will take root better. For the winter, the greenhouses are opened, and the cuttings are covered with spruce branches with a layer of 20-30 cm.
© Author: Dmitry Kolesov
GROWING CONIFEROUS PLANTS IN A GARDEN AND THEIR PLACE IN DESIGN
CONIFERS IN DESIGN: TOP-5 IDEAS
Conifers add volume and richness to the garden area. True, most of the representatives of this group have the same color - green. From this, the site looks monotonous. So summer residents ask themselves the question: how can a composition of conifers be diluted in order to add some bright colors?
- Conifers with a colored crown. Many species, for example, thuja and junipers, have a lot of varieties with golden and blue shades of needles. And if you alternate them in the garden, you get a composition that is quite rich in color. In autumn, a micro-biota (a genus of coniferous shrubs of the cypress family) will add brightness to it, the color of which becomes bronze by winter.
- With roses. This is one of the classic options: the bright flowers of roses and their glossy foliage wonderfully harmonize with conifers. Just do not try to chase an abundance of colors - let there be no more than five and preferably in the same range (for example, peach, pink and scarlet). Too many shades will create the effect of a lurid gypsy skirt on the site. Of course, plant roses only on undersized coniferous species so that they do not obscure the queen of flowers. And, of course, take into account the distance when planting: in the fall, the shoots of roses must be bent to the ground, and for this there must be free space around the bushes.
- With clematis. If the coniferous plantings are broken at the fence, you can put clematis on it - they will become an excellent background for a green composition. But again, choose varieties in the same range, for example, pink or purple. White clematis are not suitable for a coniferous garden: they will be lost in the abundance of greenery.
TIP: Plant conifers of different sizes and shapes nearby - spherical, pyramidal, creeping. This will eliminate the monotony of the composition.
- With aromatic herbs. Hyssop, lavender, mint, catnip, thyme, sage, monarda and lofant will be appropriate. All types of onions will fit well with conifers.
- With primroses. They also fit perfectly into a coniferous garden, and they can be planted between low bushes and under large trees. Here you can safely identify tulips, crocuses, pushkinia, scilla, liverwort.
CONIFEROUS EXOTES? NEED TO THINK!
The assortment of conifers in garden centers is growing every year, new products, including exotic ones, are constantly appearing. Alas, not all of them are able to survive in the middle lane. There are a number of trees and shrubs that have low winter hardiness, and even a good shelter will not save them from death.
Sequoia dendron
The lowest temperature that he can survive is -25 degrees. And then, if it falls to such limits, for a short time.
Cedar Himalayan
In stores it is sold under the Latin name “deodara cedar”. He is able to withstand the same - 25 degrees.
Pine of Geldreich
Its frost resistance is slightly higher - it can be as low as - 30 degrees. But if the frost is stronger, the tree will die. And do not rely on shelter: insulating an adult pine, as you know, is unrealistic.
Cupressocyparis
A novelty in the garden centers of recent seasons is a hybrid of large-fruited cypress and Nutkan cypress. But since it contains cypress genes, it is only suitable for southern regions with a mild climate. The plant freezes already at - 21 degrees.
Cypress trees
Often found on sale. There are several types of them, they look extremely attractive. Not only externally, but also in terms of cost - cypress trees are represented in various budget mixes with miniature conifers. However, most of them are not able to survive our winter. The most frost-resistant are pea-fruit, nutkan and stupid. True, they also hibernate provided they have good shelter, and it will be necessary to cover not only young plants for the first 2 years, but their entire life. At the same time, a dull cypress should grow in the shade - it will not survive the winter in the open sun. The most spectacular and popular Lawson's (or Lawson's) cypress in the northern regions will freeze for sure - it is suitable only for the southern regions.
© Author: Alexey VOLODIKHIN, agronomist
CONIFEROUS PLANTS IN GARDEN DESIGN - VIDEO
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The second half of August in the middle lane is ideal for planting conifers. Young plants with a closed root system will take root better (postpone the planting of adult specimens with an open root system until late autumn before the onset of frost).
Prepare the planting holes in advance - in size and volume, they should exactly correspond to the containers in which the seedlings grew. Do not forget to drain and pour fertile soil mixed with coniferous litter (in an arbitrary ratio) and long-acting mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions) into each of the holes. Water the planted plants abundantly, and mulch the ground around them with the same coniferous litter. If the plants are slightly toppling to one side, tie them to a support. A week after planting, pour the conifers with a solution of the drug that stimulates root growth.
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For the fifth year now, I have been growing a weeping larch on a trunk, but it seems that it still hasn't taken root in the soil in any way - the plant shakes very strongly with the wind. I am worried that she would not die.
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Your fears are fully justified - if the larch strongly sways from the wind, then it may die. And the reason why this happens is most likely the following.
Usually, the root system even of standard larch trees is quite powerful and goes deep into the ground. But in your case, when grafting, the volume of the future crown was not taken into account, and, accordingly, the balance between the root system of the rootstock and the aboveground part was not observed. As a result, the overgrown crown of the larch became too heavy for the trunk carrying it.
Because of this discrepancy, the tree not only sways strongly, risking breaking or | seriously damaging 1 roots, but also spends all its Powers to correct the Situation and maintain an upright position.
I would advise you to strengthen the larch with stretch marks for at least a year. Place the stakes on four sides opposite each other, and fasten the braces to the trunk with clamps with soft pads. If necessary (if, for example, after strong gusts of wind, the position of the trunk changes), level the tree and re-fix it with guy ropes. The average annual growth of larch is about 15 cm. During the period of active growth, do not forget to slightly loosen the tension on the ropes so as not to damage the bark.
In addition, it is desirable to reduce the volume of the crown by about a third by cutting out some of the branches from the “wrong side”. The main pruning will need to be transferred to the spring, but the crown can be partially thinned out in the fall: your plant has already reached the age at which autumn pruning is permissible. D. KOLESOV, landscape designer, collector of conifers
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Please tell me what kind of plant is shown in the photo? Friends dropped him off in a sunny place. Does it fit?
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- In the photo - a larch seedling. At this age, the variety and species do not yet appear, so they cannot be determined.
Of all the many of these plants (the question of their number is still controversial due to the ease of crossing in natural conditions and the formation of new hybrids), the most popular larch in the middle larch: Siberian, European, American, Japanese (Kempfer). All of them are very light-loving, in the shade they can lose their decorative effect, so your friends chose the place correctly. This crop grows best on nutrient-rich moist loams, but poorly on poor sandy soils. In arid climates, it can suffer from a lack of moisture.
The highest winter hardiness is in Siberian Larch - up to -50 degrees, the lowest - in Japanese larch, which can withstand frosts down to -35 degrees.
Larches are large trees up to 25-30 m in height that grow very quickly. The exception is plants grafted onto a stem (with a weeping crown). If your friends decide to transplant their pet, it is better to do it in early spring or in the fall before the onset of frost.
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CIPARIS FROM SEED
In natural conditions, cypress is a slender tree 20-30 m high. Its round cones resemble a soccer ball in shape. These are the "balls" I collected once, while resting in the south. Over time, they dried up, opened, seeds spilled out of them. They lay with me for five years, until I decided to sow them.
GROWING FAST
From the literature I learned that cold stratification is required for germination. I kept the seeds for two months in a container with wet sand in the refrigerator door, periodically taking them out for airing. Then I put it in a warm place and waited for the sprouts to appear (they are not the same in conifers as in deciduous ones, so do not try to help them get rid of the shell). The grown seedlings were planted in a special soil for conifers, which has an acidic reaction. So that there was no stagnation of water, I poured expanded clay drainage. Cypress grows quickly (in the photo it is about 5 years old), so you have to increase the pot every spring. I roll over the plant while preserving the earthen coma and fill up with fresh earth.
SUBSTANCES OF CONTENT
Cypress is a water bread, I water it almost every day, both in winter and in summer. Conifers do not tolerate drought, after which it will not be possible to save the tree. They also do not like drafts, the cold from the window will destroy them. Plants like high humidity, but it is difficult to create such conditions at home, so occasionally I bathe my pet in the shower. My cypress grows without a dormant period, although in winter it will be better in a pleasant coolness, and not in the warmth of an apartment. Pruning is not required for the plant, as conifers form their own crown. My tree is sparse, apparently, there is not enough light. I do not specially light up and do not pamper with top dressing in order to restrain growth.
Natalia BARANOVA, Samara