RASPBERRY TREE - MYTH OR REALITY?

In the mid-90s. of the last century, articles appeared in many respected agricultural magazines, which said that our breeders managed to breed a real raspberry tree with a branched crown, moreover, strewn with a huge number of large and sweet berries. Photos of this "miracle of selection" were cited as evidence.

There was a lot of controversy then. Someone said that it was just a journalistic duck, while someone really believed that such a tree was created. When I met with amateur gardeners, they always asked me to tell you about the raspberry tree, but then I had no data about it. So I decided to do my own investigation.

THE HISTORY OF THE CREATION OF THE RASPBERRY TREE

"So does the crimson tree exist or not?" - with this question, I turned to our famous breeder, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, Professor Viktor Valerianovich Kichin, with whom I was well acquainted. And it turned out that I got right to the address, because the first variety of the raspberry tree Tarusa was created by Viktor Valerianovich in his experimental garden in VSTISP (Moscow). This happened in the 90s, when the scientist discovered the "large-fruited gene" and brought out a new unique species of large-fruited raspberries with thick stems and short internodes, which did not need a garter to the trellises.

V.V. Kichina told me that it was on the basis of different varieties of this species that he managed to breed his first variety of the raspberry tree Tarusa, which became the progenitor of all other varieties of this unusual type of raspberry.

In fact, the raspberry tree is a tall standard large-fruited raspberry that grows in the form of a bush and is formed in the shape of a tree.

However, not every raspberry bush can make a tree. For its formation, it is precisely the standard raspberry with thick branches, short internodes and the ability to form powerful lateral shoots, from which the crown of the raspberry tree is formed, is needed.

The height of such a tree should not exceed 1,5-1,7 m. Then it will be easy to care for it and harvest ripe berries. The branches of this plant are strong and thickened. When fruiting in a standard bush, it is necessary to leave no more than 8-9 fruiting shoots.

Thick and very powerful branches of the raspberry tree (common raspberry) easily withstand the largest harvest of large sweet berries.

Inexperienced gardeners believe that a standard bush can grow by itself in the form of a tree, but this is not the case. It constantly needs to be shaped with the help of special trimming. Many do not know how to do this correctly, and have never heard of the peculiarities of growing standard raspberries at all, so today we will talk about this with you.

RASPBERRY WITH MASS OF ADVANTAGES

As I said, an adult raspberry tree is a tall raspberry bush, the growth of which I recommend that you limit the growth at a height of 1,5 m. Form it from 8-9 thick shoots that do not need any garter to the trellises or supports. Strong branches of standard raspberries are able to withstand any harvest of huge ripe berries.

Short internodes are a guarantee that the branches never fall on the ground, only slightly bent under the weight of the fruit.

The emerald green leaves of the raspberry tree are different from the leaves of any other raspberry. They are larger, thicker and with deeper veins and a dissected shape, as well as a more pronounced carved shape along the edges.

The berries are conical, very large (weighing 7-15 g), dark crimson or light red (depending on the variety) with a whitish waxy bloom.

The pulp is light raspberry, very juicy and rather sweet, with a pronounced raspberry aroma. The berries are dense, have a high keeping quality and good transportability.

Ripe fruits can stay on the shoots without crumbling for more than a week. This important property makes it possible to grow standard raspberries on an industrial scale. The absence of trellises also greatly simplifies the cultivation technology.

The root system of a raspberry tree is deep enough, denser than that of an ordinary garden raspberry, it is very small and does not creep over the site, but goes into the lower layers to a depth of 65 cm.This makes it absolutely invulnerable in severe frosts and winters with little snow.

Almost all varieties of the raspberry tree bear fruit on last year's shoots. Although many breeders tried to create remontant varieties of the raspberry tree. But the result was, at best, thick-stemmed remontant raspberries with a late fruiting period.

So, the famous breeder academician V.I. Kazakov bred a remontant variety of the raspberry tree Eurasia. But it can give a full harvest on annual shoots only in southern regions with short mild winters and a very long period of warmth.

By the way, this variety grows well in the middle lane like an ordinary summer raspberry, giving a high yield of large berries on last year's shoots.

The raspberry tree is characterized by increased frost resistance and can withstand winter temperatures down to minus 43 °.

Standard raspberries are good because they are quite easy to care for. And the yields of delicious, very large berries from one standard bush are almost three times higher than the most productive varieties of summer raspberries.

Another advantage of the standard raspberry is that it is practically not affected by pests and diseases. Harmful insects do not like thick lignified shoots and rather coarse leaves. Therefore, the huge berries of the standard raspberry are almost always dry and clean, without caterpillars and other insects. This means that harmful chemicals are not required to protect them.

MY EXPERIENCE IN GROWING A RASPBERRY TREE

The very first variety on my site was Tarusa, 5 of which I purchased from the Institute of Horticulture in the late 90s. After that, I tested the varieties of standard raspberries Krepysh, Skazka, Galaktika. My last purchase 2 years ago was the world famous Glen Emple variety.

I would like to talk about the features of growing a raspberry tree, which I have learned over almost two decades.

First, I want to warn you against buying stock raspberries at roadside markets or in small firms selling planting material. Believe me, I came across their sellers, I quarreled with them more than once, looking at low-quality planting material that did not correspond to the declared tags. Such rare things as a raspberry tree can be bought only in serious large nurseries or from companies that produce planting material. You must be sure to provide a quality certificate for the products sold. And yet - buy seedlings only with a closed root system (ZKS).

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See also: Standard raspberry (raspberry tree) expert reviews

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WHEN TO PLANT.

The best time to plant a raspberry tree is early May. But watch the temperature. It must be at least 16 °.

CHOICE OF PLACES FOR LANDING.

For vigorous growth and development, a raspberry tree needs intense sunlight throughout the day. Therefore, set aside the sunniest area in your garden with standard raspberries. It is preferable that it is located on a small hill.

Standard raspberry does not tolerate the close occurrence of ground and stagnant melt and rainwater. Therefore, in low-lying areas, plant plants on separate artificial mounds 50 cm high and 70 cm in diameter.

When choosing a location, consider a system for protecting crimson trees from drafts and cold winds.

Soil composition. Since the raspberry tree is quite powerful, provide it with extra nourishment. The plant is responsive to organic matter, potash fertilizers and trace elements. He needs light, loose, organic-rich fertile soils with a neutral reaction of the environment.

On heavy and acidic lands, standard raspberries will not grow. Such soils must first be deoxidized with dolomite flour or crushed chalk (at the rate of 2 kg per 5 sq. M of the plot).

PLANTING A RASPBERRY TREE.

I dig planting holes for a raspberry tree with a depth and diameter of 50 cm.Taking into account the fact that the standard raspberry bushes are quite spreading trees, I leave the distance between them at least 1,5 m, and between the rows - 2-2,5 m.

The planting pits are filled with pre-prepared soil, composed of leafy soil, rotted cow dung, fine river sand and the upper fertile layer in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1.

When planting, I put in each hole: 0,5 buckets of wood ash, 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1,5 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 1 cup of dolomite flour (on acidic soils).

I water the planted plants abundantly with warm water (at the rate of 20 liters for each seedling) and mulch the ground under the bushes with straw with a layer of 6 cm.

WATERING.

Standard raspberries have a much higher water requirement than regular summer raspberries. In the spring it is well saturated with melt water. But then I am already worried about watering.

In extreme heat, I water the trees 2 times a week (3 watering cans for each). The second peak in moisture demand occurs during the ripening period of the crop. At this time, I water the standard raspberries every other day at the rate of 2 watering cans for each bush.

After each watering, I loosen the soil well over the entire area of ​​the raspberry tree so that a soil crust does not form on top, which prevents oxygen from reaching the root system and makes it difficult for the plant to grow.

So that the earth does not dry out and weeds do not grow under the bushes, immediately after loosening, I mulch the trunks with a 6 cm layer of straw.

FERTILIZERS.

Standard raspberries constantly need organic and mineral fertilizers to form a good harvest. In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, I feed the raspberry trees with a urea solution (at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 bucket of water under each).

At the end of May and June 15-17, I give the bushes of standard raspberries additional fertilizing with slurry at a concentration of 1:10 at the rate of 10 liters for each plant.

First, I water the ground under the bushes well with plain water so as not to burn the roots.

At the end of September, I feed standard raspberries with any ready-made mineral complex for autumn feeding of fruit and berry crops in the dosage indicated on the package.

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See also: Crimson tree (photo) - planting and care

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FORMING RASPBERRY TREE

Many gardeners today ask me: "Is it possible to grow a standard raspberry in the shape of a raspberry tree by yourself?" I answer: “Yes, you can! You just need to properly trim the trunk. "

The fact is that, F, in the standard species, like in ordinary raspberries, replacement shoots are formed. If you cut them out and leave only 1-2, then the crown of such a bush will look like the crown of a tree that will not bend even when the branches are fully loaded with a heavy harvest. After harvesting, cut out the fruit-bearing shoots, like in ordinary raspberries.

I shape the crown of the raspberry tree by double pruning the stems. The first time - at the end of May: I pinch the growing shoot when its length reaches 1 m. I shorten the stem by 8 cm. This operation stops apical growth and stimulates the awakening of the buds in the axils of the upper leaves. As a result, by the beginning of August I get 5-6 lateral growths 50-70 cm long.

I do the second pruning of the resulting branched trunk the next spring. I simply shorten the tops of the side shoots by 15 cm. As a result, I get the shape of a raspberry tree, which gives me a bountiful harvest.

But I want to draw your attention to the moment that you cannot be late with the dates of the first trimming! It must be done no later than June 7, then the side branches will not have time to ripen, freeze and die.

With such a formation, the standard raspberry bush really becomes like a tree.

PREPARING FOR WINTER.

The raspberry tree is very hardy, so cover it for the winter only in the first 3 years. To do this, use dry leaves, which fill the trunk circles to a height of 45-55 cm.

If the winter is snowless and very cold, lay a double layer of spruce branches on top of the leaves with the needles up so that mice, voles and other rodents do not get to the delicious raspberry roots.

I told you about raspberry trees, or double-shaped standard raspberries... All the varieties I have written about are simply wonderful, and I highly recommend all gardeners to plant this interesting and fantastically productive type of raspberry on their plot. Trust me, you won't regret it!

THE BEST VARIETIES OF RASPBERRY

I want to tell you a little about each of the varieties of raspberry tree I liked that I tested on my site.

TARUSA... This very first mid-late variety, bred by V.V. Kichina, I consider one of the best and absolutely modern. The bush is 1,5 m high and consists of 10 powerful lateral shoots. By autumn, their length is 60 cm. When the leaves fall off, the bush really looks like a low tree.

The berries are very large (weighing up to 16 g), sweet, aromatic, shiny, dense, bright red, very beautiful elongated-conical shape. The root system is powerful, deep, practically does not give root growth. The tree does not require any support. The variety is not affected by pests and never gets sick.

Differs in high frost resistance (up to minus 43 °) and drought resistance.

KREPYSH... A mid-early raspberry variety. The berries begin to ripen after June 20th. The bush is 1,6m high and has no thorns. Like all varieties of the raspberry tree, it has very thick (up to 2 cm in diameter) erect shoots with short internodes.

The variety is very productive. Berries weighing up to 10 g are rounded-conical, crimson-red with a whitish waxy coating, non-shiny, dense, very sweet and fragrant, they sit securely on the stalks, hence the very low crumbling. Fruiting begins in the second half of June and can continue until the end of summer. Productivity up to 5 kg of berries from one raspberry tree. Winter hardiness is very high.

FAIRY TALE... This variety was also bred by V.V. Kichina based on the first grade of Tarusa. The bush is powerful, up to 2 m high (I try to form them no higher than 1,6 m), the shoots are thick and strong, with shortened internodes.

The berries are very large (weighing up to 15 g), dense, red, shiny with a waxy coating, very sweet and aromatic. This variety has an extended fruiting period, which starts in mid-June and ends in September. The berries stay on the branches for a very long time without crumbling, so they can be harvested once a week (if you come to the dacha only for the weekend). On each stem, up to 4 lateral shoots are formed, which create fruit branches. The variety is very productive. Up to 10 kg of berries can be harvested from one bush.

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Reference by topic: Crimson tree - a myth and a deceit or the truth: responses of the professional

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RASPBERRY TARUS - VIDEO

© Author: O. IVANOVA, gardener-experimenter The Moscow region

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