Spring pruning and spraying of fruit trees - a memo from an agronomist
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CUT OFF THE GARDEN? SPRAY!
Today we will talk about two important seasonal things in the garden. Much has been written about pruning.
From year to year we provide useful practical information on this topic. Today, let's remember the important rules for pruning. And to reduce the possibility of damage to trees and shrubs by pests and diseases, be sure to carry out spring spraying before the leaves bloom.
Read about this in the second part of the article.
SPRING CUTTING OF FRUIT TREES
So, the beginning of the summer cottage season begins with pruning fruit trees. What should not be forgotten?
Try not to skip pruning and do it annually. Many people neglect annual pruning, they do it every few years. Or they suddenly wake up when the tree is thickened and the harvest has decreased. It is impossible to cut off strongly at once - this will entail the growth of tops. After all, there is a balance between the crown and the root system, with strong pruning it is disturbed, and the tree begins to grow the crown to the detriment of fruiting.
Pruning must be completed before sap flow begins. That is, before the kidneys swell. Otherwise, the sections will ooze with juice, they are difficult to cover up, there are many pathogens on such an ideal nutrient medium that can harm the tree. Also, some of the nutrients and hormones will be lost along with the leaked juice.
Only straight cuts heal quickly and easily.
Prune at positive air temperatures. If the temperature is below zero, then in the process of pruning, it is easy to break off adjacent branches (they are fragile due to the cold), but such wounds heal with difficulty. Here it must be said about the need to buy a good garden saw. Do not cut off large branches with a regular hacksaw - uneven rough cuts also take a long time to heal. A lopper is also useful. Do not try to cut a thick branch with a regular pruner - again, you will not get a smooth cut.
Think about how you will cover your wounds.
The classic garden pitch is solid at low temperatures, it will have to be heated, kneaded like plasticine. Take a closer look at a variety of new remedies in garden stores. Various pasty mixtures, paints, varnishes. They must have disinfecting and wound healing properties. And in order not to get your hands dirty, use a special brush to apply the product to the cut.
And one more important point: do not cover the wound immediately after cutting... Leave it on for at least half an hour. Let it dry a little.
See also: How to properly cut the trees in the country, in the garden
SPRING SPRAYING OF FRUIT TREES
To get rid of most insect pests and pathogens and then, during flowering and fruiting, do not spray the garden with chemicals, so-called eradication spraying is carried out in March. Then it is repeated in late autumn.
It should be carried out at a time when there are no leaves on the trees, since the concentration of the drugs is so high that it literally burns the delicate parts of the plants. In spring - before the green cone stage (that is, before the buds begin to swell), in autumn - after leaf fall.
For eradicating spraying, choose a fine, windless day with temperatures above zero. It's not scary if it was minus at night, the main thing is that the air warms up to 4-5 ° during the day. And so that after spraying it does not rain.
For eradication spraying, both fungicides and insecticides are used. When choosing an insecticide, pay attention to how it works. Systemic drugs will not work (they must penetrate the plant sap, which the pest will then eat and die). In our case, there are no leaves yet, and the insects are just awakening. Therefore, it is important to use drugs with contact action.
In addition, it is better to use drugs with a wide spectrum of action, that is, against various insects, as well as ticks. In this case, you will not have to study the effect of drugs on each other, the laws of the preparation of tank mixtures.
The causative agents of plant diseases also successfully winter in the garden, and with the help of eradication spraying, their number can be significantly reduced.
Classic preparations for eradicating treatment against diseases are copper sulfate and urea. It is believed that copper sulfate has the widest spectrum of action and acts on almost all causative agents of fungal diseases. For eradicating spraying, we take a large concentration - 3-5% (300-500 mg per 10 liters of water). We also dilute urea in a high concentration - 5-7% (500-700 g per 10 liters of water). Commercial fungicides can be used by diluting them in high concentrations. For example, based on copper oxychloride, copper sulfate, difenoconazole, propiconazole, cyprodinil.
GOLDEN RULES FOR SPRING GARDEN Pruning
Spring pruning will prepare the plants for the new season, improve the illumination of the crown, and enhance flowering and fruiting. But this procedure must be carried out correctly.
Trimming time | After the end of severe frosts, but before the beginning of the growing season (before the buds swell) | It is better to work in thaw or slightly frosty (up to -5 degrees) clear weather |
Pruning young non-bearing trees | Severely shorten annual growths only to subordinate the branches to the central conductor and to each other | Be sure to remove competitors of skeletal branches and the central conductor, as well as strong branches that extend from the trunk at an acute angle and are poorly attached to it |
Pruning after three or four harvests | First, remove branches that thicken the crown, then cut out diseased, broken, intertwined branches | Thin out the semi-skeletal branches so that the distance between them is about 30-40 cm |
Anti-aging pruning during the period of full fruiting | The average length of annual shoots should be 30-40 cm | Cut off part of the skeletal branches to the place where the lateral perennial branch grows into a ring. Rejuvenate perennial fruit branches at the same time |
© Author: Oleg BUINOVSKY, agronomist
See also: Spraying the garden in the spring - with chemistry and without (reminder to the gardener)
© Author: A. DANILOVA, agronomist
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