Rudbeckia (photo) growing through seedlings, transplanting into open ground and care
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RUBDEKIA SEEDLING, PLANTING AND CARE
There are, of course, more dandy flowers in the garden. But today I would like to tell you about rudbeckia - their crafty "eyes" are clearly visible from afar. Cheerful plants delight with their long flowering, while behaving modestly, not overshadowing their neighbors in the flower bed.
FEATURES OF RUDBEKIA
Some readers, looking at the photographs, will probably ask: is not the author demonstrating Echinacea purple? No, the pictures show two remarkable subspecies of rudbeckia: p. hairy, or Hirta (variety My joy (Meine Freude), and the river reddish-purple, or crimson (variety The King). The first is short, the stem is up to 70 cm. Such bushes glow with golden yellow flowers with dark brown The bloom lasts from the beginning of July to September.The purple subspecies includes light-loving and cold-resistant varieties (with many shades) .Blossoms until frost, the stem reaches almost a meter in height.
There are indeed many similarities between rudbeckia and echinacea. Both plants belong to the Aster family, their stem leaves are pointed, rough, their inflorescences are baskets, their homeland is North America ... However, the differences are significant. For example, echinacea has hard, thorny bracts and receptacles, and rudbeckia has soft (by the way, the name echinacea (echitnos) is translated as "prickly"). In addition, the medicinal properties of echinacea are widely known, while in folk medicine there is silence about rudbeckia.
WAYS OF GROWING RUDBEKIA
Rudbeckia hairy and purple can be grown as an annual (then it is especially effective) and as a biennial (the attractiveness of the plant is slightly lost). If, in our climate, rudbeckia is grown in a perennial culture, then after 3-5 years the bushes will need a transplant.
If there is a great temptation to sow seeds directly into the open ground, you should wait until mid-June. Then by the fall you will see leafy rosettes, and flowers the next year.
See also: What flowers bloom in August and bloom until late autumn?
SEEDING RUDBEKIA THROUGH SEEDLING
I wanted to admire the flowering of rudbeckia in the same year and chose the seedling method. The boxes were filled with universal flower soil. In the 20th of March (until mid-April), he scattered small shiny seeds over the surface and, covering it with soil, sprinkled it with settled water from a spray bottle. He covered the boxes with foil, transferred them to a warm (18-20 °) and bright corner. From time to time he moistened the crops, and also opened the shelter to remove condensation.
The first seedlings appeared in two weeks. When each of them had 4 real leaves, he cut them apart in separate pots, so as not to interfere with each other's growth. I also took care of hardening: every day for a couple of hours I brought them out to the balcony with an open window.
TRANSFERRING RUDBEKIA INTO OPEN SOIL
For planting, I chose a solar flower bed with cultivated moisture-absorbing soil (you can also assign rudbeckia a place with a little shading). At the end of May, night frosts were no longer expected, so it was possible to dig holes. But first, he enriched the soil: 3 kg of rotted compost and 1 glass of wood ash (per 1 sq. M.) Will nourish young plants for life "in the wild." The holes were at a distance of about 0 m from each other, because the bushes are growing. I spilled them with water in advance.
The seedlings were well moistened and transplanted carefully, straightening the roots. As soon as he hooked up the next "tenant", he immediately threw in the earth tightly (this is how the root system needs: it is strong, but superficial and does not like "air"). After planting, he mulched the soil with compost with a layer of 6-8 cm.
May nights are still chilly, so rudbeckia spent the night rooting period covered by an agrospan. I took off the shelter after 2 weeks. Flowering began in July and was amicable.
INTERESTING FACTS
The first settlers of North America back in the XNUMXth century. they dubbed the rudbeckia "black-eyed Suzanne" - for the dark-colored convex "peephole" on the basket. However, the Europeans decisively renamed the flower the "sun hat". And the great K. Linnaeus named this plant rudbeckia in honor of his friend the Swedish botanist U. Rudbek.
In Western Europe, a hybrid of echinacea and rudbeckia, ehibekia, was recently obtained. True, it is not known whether it can be planted on the "apothecary" garden.
NUANCES OF CARE FOR RUDBEKIA
Rudbeckia is not capricious, but there are some features of care that cannot be neglected:
- frequent watering - in the morning or in the evening, especially in hot weather;
- watering ends with loosening and weeding;
- the purple subspecies is tall, so the first weeks of the plant must be tied to a support;
- at the beginning of the growing season, top dressing is needed (I used a liquid complex fertilizer for flowering plants, after half a month I repeated the top dressing).
FOR DISEASES AND PESTS
With proper care, rudbeckia rarely gets sick and does not admit pests to itself. Unfortunately, there are no ideal conditions. Powdery mildew attacks sometimes.
Once I saw a white loose bloom on a couple of leaves. Timely treatment with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur helped (Bordeaux liquid is also effective - 100 g of copper sulfate and 75-100 g of slaked lime per 10 liters of water).
Of the pests for the plant, the leaf nematode is the most dangerous. For preventive purposes, he treated the plantings with a special preparation.
GROWING RUDBEKIA - LANDING AND CARE, ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
RUDBEKIA - THE QUEEN OF THE FLOWER
Candidate of Biological Sciences Lyudmila ULEISKAYA from Yalta will talk about the most fashionable perennial of the new season - rudbeckia.
This plant has been familiar to flower growers for more than two centuries. It gained popularity due to the bright sunny color of the inflorescences, the abundance and duration of flowering (from the second half of summer to frost) and unpretentiousness.
Help
The genus Rudbeckia from the Astrov family combines up to 30 annual, biennial and perennial species from North America and Mexico. They differ in the height and shape of the bush, as well as the size and color of the inflorescences. The first rudbeckia, introduced into culture in the middle of the 30th century, had a non-double golden yellow flower with a convex brown-brown center, 100-XNUMX cm high.
The name of the genus was given by the "father of botany" Carl Linnaeus in honor of Olof Rudbeck, a professor of botany, his friend and teacher.
WEALTH OF TYPES AND VARIETIES OF RUDBECKIA
TYPE, DESCRIPTION | GRADE, CHARACTERISTICS |
Rudbeckia dissected, or split-leaved, - bush height 1-5 m, width up to 3 m. Inflorescences are hemispherical - prominent, light yellow with a greenish center, 1-7 1 cm in diameter. It blooms in the last days of July-August | Gold Ball, syn. Golden Glow, up to 1 m high and 8 - 2 m wide. A widely known variety called the Golden Ball with yellow double flowers |
Goldkugel up to 1 m high. Terry inflorescences, lemon yellow, 65 cm in diameter | |
Rudbeckia is shiny, or radiant, up to 90 cm high and 45 cm wide. Inflorescences are non-double, orange, up to 7-9 cm in diameter, with a black center. Blooms in late July-August | Goldsturm up to 60 cm high. Inflorescences are golden yellow with a dark brown center, 9-1 2 cm in diameter |
Little Goldstar up to 40 cm high. Abundantly flowering, golden yellow inflorescences with a brown center | |
Rudbeckia glossy 1-5 m high. Non-double inflorescences, yellow-green in color, up to 2 1 cm in diameter. Blooms from July until frost | Goldshirm - non-double inflorescences, up to 1 cm in diameter, bright yellow with a green center |
Juligold up to 2 m high. Yellow inflorescences with an olive center | |
Herbstsonne up to 2 m high and up to 90 cm wide. Lemon yellow inflorescences with a brown center, 10-1 cm in diameter | |
Rudbeckia hybrid - high and medium-sized hybrids based on crossing other species. Inflorescences are large, up to 19 cm in diameter, of various colors | Gloriosa Daisy up to 1 m high. Non-double inflorescences, various shades of yellow and brown, 2 1-5 1 cm in diameter |
Gloriosa Double Daisy up to 1 m high. Terry inflorescences, from yellow to brown in color, up to 2 1 cm in diameter |
ROYAL CHARACTER
For rudbeckia, a sunny or semi-shady place with fertile, well-drained soil is selected.
In the heat, drought and early autumn, with a lack of moisture, the plants are watered, otherwise the inflorescences become smaller, and in terry varieties even semi-double or non-double flowers appear.
At the beginning of growth, they are fed with a complete mineral fertilizer.
Withered inflorescences are cut to the top green leaf.
Perennial species are frost-resistant, they do not need shelter for the winter.
WE PRODUCE WITHOUT PROBLEMS
Rudbeckia is propagated by seeds (except for terry varieties of R. dissected), which remain viable for up to 3 years, as well as by dividing the bush.
Seeds are sown for seedlings in late March-early April. At a temperature of + 16-18 degrees, shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. The seeds of R. hybrid are sown immediately in a permanent place. Seedlings are planted in open ground in the second half of May, after the threat of return frosts has passed. Perennial species bloom in late summer in the year of sowing or in the next season. Some of them can give abundant self-seeding.
You can also sow rudbeckia seeds before winter - in the second half of October-early November.
An adult bush is divided and transplanted in the spring, in late April-first half of May. Rudbeckia can grow in one place up to 7-10 years. When the bush grows, its central part does not fall out.
PLACE FOR RUDBEKIA IN THE GARDEN
Varieties of perennial species look spectacular in mixborders, near lawns, against the background of trees and shrubs.
Shade-tolerant Rudbeckia glossy can grow and bloom from the north and east sides of buildings, fences, arbors. It is also appropriate on the shore of a reservoir, in compositions with other herbaceous plants and shrubs.
In a rustic-style garden, a worthy place will be occupied by the "golden balls" of Rudbeckia dissected.
RUDBEKIA - "GOLDEN BALLS" OF THE FLOWER BOARD
Many remember from childhood the lush bushes of dissected rudbeckia. Everywhere in the front gardens there was a variety of the Golden Ball (Gold Ball). And even now in the garden beds you can see the "sunny" flower. It is considered unpretentious, but still, in order to achieve amazing flowering, it is worth paying attention to the plant. In caring for rudbecks, I have deduced several important rules for myself.
SECRETS OF GROWING RUDBEKIA "GOLDEN BALL"
The golden ball is a giant over 2 m tall. I picked a place for him in the background near the fence. Here it is provided with support, and if necessary, I tie the plant to the trellis.
I noticed that in sunny areas the bush grows stronger. In partial shade, the stems stretch and the plant collapses, and flowering becomes scarce.
At the “feet” of rudbeckia, she planted lower perennials: foxglove, speedwell, catnip, geranium, chistets, splayed aster and solidaster.
The plant requires abundant watering during the growth period and during flowering.
Rudbeckia is responsive to feeding. In the spring I give nitrogen for growth (ammonium nitrate, fertilizers marked "spring"), in June-July - complex for flowering (nitroammophoska, nitrophoska, "Gumi-Omi universal", fertilizers of the "summer" series). "Mineralka" I use according to the instructions. I dissolve in water or close up under a bush and water abundantly.
In autumn or before winter, after pruning the stems, I pamper rudbeckia with organic matter for a good wintering and recuperation. I generously mulch the soil with humus, compost. If there is no fresh organic matter, I use dry: horse "Orgavit" or chicken manure in granules, "Gumi-Omi Autumn" (everything - according to the instructions).
So that the growing bushes do not oppress the "neighbors", every 2-3 years I cut off the excess growth with a shovel. I cut off the delenks in early spring, until the shoots have grown above 20 cm, or in August-September, after flowering.
© Author: Olga MANUDINA, collector, Lukhovitsy, Moscow region.
Reference by topic: Rudbeckia in the flower garden (photo) planting and care. Flower combinations
RUDBEKIA - GROWING AND APPLICATION: VIDEO
© Author: V. RUSSIAN
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Once I sowed the seeds of the perennial rudbeckia shiny, I never cease to admire it. Beautiful stately bushes are decorated with many yellow “daisy” flowers, which delight with beauty for a long time. Rudbeckia is unpretentious, but I still adhere to some rules.
At the beginning of the growing season I feed the flower. Dissolve 10 tbsp in 1 liters of water. potassium sulfate, nitrophoska and Agricola-7. On average, I pour 1 liters of nutrient solution per 3 square meter. After half a month I give a second feeding with the same mixture.
During prolonged heat and drought, I water the plant often (in the morning or evening).
I tie tall varieties to a support.
When the flowers fade, I remove them.
For the winter, I cut off the above-ground part to the soil level and sprinkle it with a layer (5-7 cm) of humus or, in case of a winter with little snow, cover it with dried grass or spruce branches.
Bushes older than five years old develop dense growth and lose their decorative appearance. I divide and plant such specimens. I do this in the spring, before the active growth of the perennial, or after flowering.
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If rudbeckia is sick
For me, rudbeckia has become just a godsend: not only does the plant not require special care, it can also grow in partial shade.
If a white coating appears on the leaves and stems of rudbeckia, resembling flour (powdery mildew), I spray the bush with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 l of water) or a solution of copper sulfate (80 g per 10 l of water).
Sometimes orange or brown raised pads can be seen on leaves, stems and shoots - pustules of rust fungus.
Therefore, for prevention during the growing season, I treat the plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid three to four times with an interval of two weeks.