At what age to transplant seedlings to the garden and how to care for it in the first days
Contents ✓
- ✓ NUMBER OF TRUE LEAVES AT SEEDLING AT THE MOMENT OF LANDING INTO THE GROUND
- ✓ WE PREPARE THE BEDS
- ✓ SEEDLING PLANTING SCHEME
- ✓ GOOD TO KNOW
- ✓ WHAT TO ADD TO THE HOLE WHEN PLANTING SEEDLING
- ✓ SEEDLING TRANSFER - READERS ADVISE
- ✓ PROBLEMS AFTER TRANSFER: HOW TO SAVE SEEDLING
- ✓ SEEDLING TRANSFER TO GROUND - VIDEO
SEEDLING: "MOVING" TO THE BED - TERMS AND WHAT TO ADD TO THE HOLE
It's May, which means it's time to plan the "move" of the seedlings to the garden bed. Let's talk about how to properly prepare a plant bed, what to add to the holes and how not to harm the seedlings during transplanting.
NUMBER OF TRUE LEAVES AT SEEDLING AT THE MOMENT OF LANDING INTO THE GROUND
- Cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons, melons - 3-4
- White cabbage - 6-7
- Peking cabbage, Brussels sprouts, red cabbage - 5-8
- Leek - 3-4
- Eggplant - 6-7
- Tomatoes, peppers - 8-9
The time for planting seedlings directly depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. For example, heat-loving crops (tomatoes, eggplants, bell peppers, cucumbers, zucchini) can fully develop only if the air temperature reaches + 17 ... + 19 degrees during the day, and + 11 ... + 13 degrees at night. If, even for a couple of days, it gets colder to 0 ... + 2 degrees, they can suffer significantly. In cold regions, it is better to plant such crops in a permanent place in late May - early June, when the risk of return frosts will be excluded.
More cold-resistant vegetables (for example, cabbage) can grow and develop well at + 13 ... + 16 degrees, so they can be planted early.
WE PREPARE THE BEDS
Prepare the seedling site 14-15 days before disembarkation:
- dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel;
- remove weeds and their roots;
- add nitroammophoska (1 tsp per 1 square meter) and humus or compost (half a bucket per 1 square meter).
Form the beds and planting holes the day before planting.
Before planting seedlings, spill the holes with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and pour 1 tsp on the bottom of each. wood ash. Before lowering the plant into the hole, pour 0 liters of settled water into it.
SEEDLING PLANTING SCHEME
When forming the planting holes, take into account the optimal distance between the plants, so that later, when they develop to their maximum size, they do not thicken each other. Usually, the optimum distance between the plants is indicated on the back of the seed bag. But there are also versatile options.
For tall tomatoes, it is most convenient to use a checkerboard planting order 50 cm apart.
Semi-determinant and determinant varieties can be planted 40 cm between plants and 50 cm between rows.
Bell peppers and eggplants can be planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other with a row spacing of 60 cm.
It is advisable to plant cabbage seedlings according to the scheme 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 cm. The more actively the variety grows and the larger the size of the head, the more distance you need to make.
Plant cucumbers 35 cm apart and 70 cm between rows.
Try to place the squash and zucchini as spaciously as possible: they grow strongly. If the space is cramped, plant no more than three such plants per 1 square meter of land. With a thicker planting, these crops will interfere with each other.
TRANSFER DAY
A few hours before planting, be sure to water the seedlings abundantly to prevent damage to the root system.
Tomatoes that are heavily overgrown and have formed a thin unstable stem can be buried by planting them lying down. Over time, they will form additional roots on the stems and will fully develop.
Cabbage seedlings can also be slightly deepened, but it is important that the growing point in the center of the leaf rosette is not covered with soil.
Peppers can also form additional roots on the stem. If the seedlings are overgrown, then it can be deepened. If the seedlings of peppers have grown stocky and have not formed root rudiments on the stalk, it is not worth deepening it.
The day after disembarking, inspect the garden. If the earth has settled and the roots are bare, be sure to sprinkle it on the stalks of the soil and mulch the plantings with humus or compost with a layer of about 1 cm.
© Author: Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences
See also: Care for tomato seedlings after transplanting into open ground
GOOD TO KNOW
In order not to damage the roots of tomatoes in the future, install the pegs for tying immediately upon planting.
Seedlings of peppers and eggplants will transfer the transplant more easily if you spill the holes with hot water before planting.
It is easier to care for cucumbers if you plant the seedlings in a checkerboard pattern.
If the weather is dry and hot in the first days after cabbage planting, cover the plants with paper caps.
Plant pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons and melons under plastic wrap. Remove the shelter only when the threat of return frosts has finally passed.
WHAT TO ADD TO THE HOLE WHEN PLANTING SEEDLING
culture | Age of seedlings (days) | fertilizers |
Tomatoes | 50-60 | According to 1 tsp potassium sulfate and urea + 250 g wood ash |
Peppers | 50-60 | 1 tsp each. potassium sulfate and urea |
cucumbers | 25-35 | + 100 g wood ash |
Eggplant | 50-70 | 0,5 l wood ash |
Cabbage | 30-35 | 1 tsp superphosphate or nitrophosphate |
Pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons, melons | 20-25 | 1 tsp superphosphate |
SAVE THE MEMORIAL PICTURE
See also: Preparation of holes for transplanting tomato seedlings into the open ground - Tips for fertilizer
SEEDLING TRANSFER - READERS ADVISE
When planting tomatoes, I put a fresh fish head on the bottom of deep holes, sprinkle a handful of ash and a little crushed eggshell, sprinkle it with a handful of earth.
© Author: Olga SOROKA
I throw a handful of fluff from old pillows into the holes for the peppers - this makes the soil looser and more breathable.
© Author: Anna FOMICH, Smolensk
A week before planting, I generously spray the cucumbers with honey water (1 tsp honey for 0 liters of water). Then I repeat the procedure in the morning or in the evening 5-3 days after planting. This helps the plants adapt more quickly.
© Author: Egor MIRONOV, Vinnytsia
Experts comments
1. Many gardeners add fish to tomato holes, but it is much more effective to use superphosphate instead. After all, by the time the fish decompose and begin to release natural phosphorus, the summer is already over.
2. Feathers, indeed, can make the soil looser, but it is better to embed them in the ground in the fall.
3. Honey water can actually help plants adapt in a new location. It can also be sprayed and watered on tomatoes, peppers and eggplants.
© Author: Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist
HARVEST CONSPIRACY
When planting the first bush of tomato seedlings, they said: “As the forest is thick, so is my bush. Saint Peter, Saint Elijah, my tomatoes and me. In the name of the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Spirit. Amen".
© Author: Dmitry DYAKONOV, agronomist
PROBLEMS AFTER TRANSFER: HOW TO SAVE SEEDLING
Sunburn in seedlings
A clear sign is the whitened upper leaves. As a rule, plants are fired that have not been hardened before planting. But this also happens with prepared seedlings if there are sunny days at the time of planting. In this case, in order to avoid burns, in the first two or three days after disembarkation, throw a span-bond onto the walls of the greenhouse or mini-greenhouse.
If a burn does occur, pour the urea solution on the affected plants on wet ground (a matchbox for 20 liters of water).
TOP TIPS: If there are not enough buckets and bottles, place small arcs over the bed and throw in a spunbond. It will protect the landings from sudden gusts of wind. When the plants are ready to be tied, the cover can be removed. Broken peppers, eggplants, and cucumbers will have to be thrown away. But you can fight for tomatoes. If you find a broken but not wilted bush, water the hole abundantly and plant the top in the ground. Place a cut XNUMX liter PET bottle or clear bag over the pegs on top. The tomato will most likely give roots and still have time to pamper you with the harvest.
This will push the seedlings to form new leaves.
Return freezing
Frost-affected plants appear drooping, and their lower leaves may turn black or white. To prevent this from happening, during a cold snap, cover the seedlings in the greenhouse with a spunbond or five-liter bottles with a cut bottom. Large paper bags are also suitable, which can be put on pegs stuck around the bush.
If forecasters promise a low temperature at night (below -1 degrees), light dry firewood in the stove or on the grill, let them burn out, and then, when there is no open flame, transfer the firewood to metal buckets or basins and place it in the greenhouse aisle ... A six-meter greenhouse will need 2-3 such "heaters".
If the planted seedlings still suffer from frost, spray it with any growth stimulant (Silk, Novosil, Immunocytofit).
If the seedlings are affected by strong wind
Windy weather can be a problem for plants outdoors. To prevent the bushes from breaking, trim the top and bottom of XNUMXL PET bottles to form a cylinder. Or remove the bottom of old leaky buckets and install these protective barriers around the plants. Remove the protection when the bushes have taken root and you can tie them to the pegs.
© Author: Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist
SEEDLING CARE AFTER SUNING - VIDEO
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SEEDLING AFTER SANITATION
Spring is coming to an end, and with it the stage of growing seedlings in the apartment. Her garden life begins. And every summer resident strives to provide the seedlings with the most comfortable conditions. But are all feeding and other actions so necessary? Let's figure it out!
FIRST FEEDING
Feed the first time after planting when the seedlings take root in a new place. This usually takes five to seven days. Most often, gardeners feed vegetables during this period with organic matter, but I recommend using any complex mineral fertilizer, which includes nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The best option is nitroammofoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). The fertilizer is distinguished not only by a good ratio of nutrients, but also perfectly soluble in water. Water the plants on wet soil at the rate of 250-300 ml for each bush.
SUBSTITUTE FUND
If you grew seedlings with a margin, after planting, do not rush to get rid of the excess. Leave the smallest plants in cups in the greenhouse. It happens that after planting the seedlings die (for example, the roots are overdried or severely damaged). In this case, the extra plants will come in handy - they can be planted in the same place.
IRRIGATION WITH SECRET
Watering newly planted seedlings from a watering can is dangerous: you can erode the soil and expose the roots. To avoid this, at a distance of 5-7 cm from the stems, make annular grooves for irrigation with a depth of 1-5 cm. Pour water into them in parts, waiting until it is absorbed. So keep the roots, and the water will get exactly where it is needed.
If the seedlings are planted in long rows, make one groove along the entire row and pour water into it. By the way, it is also advisable to apply solutions of mineral and organic fertilizers to irrigation grooves.
PUSH ON GAS!
Seedlings transplanted to a permanent place often stop growing. There may be several reasons. If you did everything correctly and are convinced that the soil is good, the seedlings receive enough nutrition and moisture, check if someone has damaged the roots, for example, bears or beetle larvae. In this case, it is advisable to replace the damaged plants, having previously “chased” the pests.
The seedlings could stop growing due to the cold. Plants in the open field are especially sensitive to cold snaps. In this case, it is important to build a temporary shelter - stretch spunbond or film over small arcs. Do not forget to ventilate the structure, and in warm hours, you can completely remove the shelter.
The soil crust can also cause stunted growth. Do not be lazy to loosen the soil a couple of hours after each watering or rain.
If there is no apparent reason for stunting, spray the plants with a growth stimulant diluted as instructed, such as Epin.
It will also be useful to carry out foliar feeding with a solution of potassium sulfate or nitroammofoska (according to the instructions) - preferably in the evening, so that it is absorbed into the leaves overnight and does not cause burns.
Others are incomprehensible
If leaves begin to wither on the plants, examine them carefully. Ticks or aphids can now attack seedlings. Have you noticed pests? Spray the bushes with any commercially available insecticide. After 3-5 days, repeat the treatment.
Plants can wilt due to excessive sun exposure. In this case, shade them with spunbond.
If the lowest leaves have wilted, and the rest are in perfect order, cut or tear them off. Most likely, the leaves have withered from old age.
EVERYTHING IS ELEMENTARY! WHAT ELEMENT IS NOT ENOUGH FOR SEEDLING
What happened | What element is missing | What to do |
Leaves curl | Calcium | Spray with calcium nitrate solution (according to instructions) |
Leaves turn yellow or white, but streaks of normal color remain | Gland | Feed any mineral complex with this element in the composition |
The upper leaves brighten, and the lower ones turn yellow and wrinkle | Nitrogen | Dissolve 1 tsp. urea in 1 liter of water and pour 250 ml of the composition under each bush |
Dry areas appear on the leaves, the tips turn yellow | Potassium | Dilute 2 tsp. potassium sulfate in 2 liters of water and spray the plants |
Purple streaks appear on the leaves | Phosphorus | Seal a couple of double superphosphate granules under a bush |
SAVE THE MEMORIAL PICTURE
© Author: Irina GURIEVA, Научн. Comp. FNTS them. Michurin
SEEDLING TRANSFER TO GROUND - VIDEO
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Last year, after transplanting to the garden bed, the seedlings of peppers stopped growing. I suppose that due to a lack of moisture (there were several hot days, and I did not have the opportunity to water the plants). I corrected the situation like this.
At 15 cm from the stem of each plant, it formed deep grooves in a circle. In each poured 5 liters of water heated in the sun. When she was absorbed, she mulched the peppers with mowed dried grass.
The next morning I fed the plants with Fertika Lux fertilizer diluted according to the instructions. Then she repeated the same feeding during the formation of the ovaries.
I watered the peppers from a 200-liter barrel. I tried every time I took water into it, put a liter jar of sifted ash there.
Once every 7-10 days, I fed the plants with herbal mash (1:10).