STRAWBERRY ON STEAMED BEDS
Everyone knows that in order to propagate this culture, the mustache must be taken from the most productive bushes. But, it turns out, not everything is so simple. And there are also enough other topics for rethinking agricultural practices for growing strawberries.
CUT LEAVES IN STRAWBERRY OR NOT?
I cannot but tell you about the large-fruited strawberries. Whoever I show the results of my labors to - i.e. blanks or harvested berries - people immediately ask to share a mustache, believing that I have some special good varieties. They are probably really good (it's a pity, I don't know their names myself), but I think it's not so much about this as about the cultivation technology. And here there are some, as they say now, interesting nuances.
Well, for example, I never cut leaves after harvest. Once, as an experiment, I did a similar thing.
with bushes on one of the two ridges. By the fall, new leaves had already grown on these experimental plants, these plantings ceased to plague my eyes with their unusual appearance, and by the next spring I had safely forgotten about my new experience. And in the coming season, when it was time for the strawberries to bloom, I was surprised to find that on one of the beds it was simply rampant, and on the other there was not a single flower. I was simply dumbfounded, did not know what to think, until I remembered: it was on this non-flowering bed that I mowed the foliage last year.
Okay, I figured out the reason. But what to do with strawberries? Fortunately, she did without my help: she bloomed, but almost a week and a half later. I did not notice any difference in the yield, but since then I have never cut foliage.
I believe that in regions with, so to speak, a risky climate, it is better to leave as much foliage on plants as possible so that they are warmer in winter. By the way, I have never frozen strawberries in all the years, although this often happens with neighbors. And the bushes, I must say, are all powerful, tall - on average under 30-35 cm.
But in the spring I remove all damaged leaves when I loosen the ground around the bushes. Then I water them with water with a small amount of ammonia diluted in it. For irrigation, I also use a systemic biofungicide solution: I use it several times per season, but I put special emphasis on the fruiting period in order to protect the plantings from gray rot. I use infusions of weeds as top dressing.
And in the spring I "steam" strawberry beds. To do this, on a sunny day, I cover them with a film that I do not remove for several hours. The temperature under it can reach 60 °, which is detrimental to many pests. And even if the leaves are a little "scalded", in general, this procedure will bring more benefit than harm.
CARE OF STRAWBERRY AFTER LANDING
Further care for strawberries is reduced to weeding, and I put the weeds right there, in the beds. Moreover, I also add grass there, which I specially mow outside the site. I think this is a very important procedure. First, the grass prevents the soil from drying out. Secondly, any living creature in the created humid environment begins to actively loosen and nourish the earth. Thirdly, ripening berries do not lie on bare ground, but on an organic dried bedding, therefore they are better ventilated, do not get dirty and are less prone to rot. Fourthly, by the fall, the grass decays, making the land more fertile. And finally, fifthly: everyone knows that the roots of strawberries over time begin to creep out, requiring constant top-up of soil. And if you regularly mulch the beds with grass, then additional soil is no longer required. Although, if possible, in the fall or spring, I pour compost on the beds. When the strawberries bloom, I spray them with a boric acid solution: 1 tsp for 10 liters of water.
There is an opinion that during the fruiting period, the bushes should not be watered - they say, the berries will be watery. I agree with that. But if the weather is dry, hot, I always water my plantings a couple of times a week, in the evening. And watering, by the way, I do not abundant and also superficial, so that the plants seem to be washed with rain and refreshed.
If there are a lot of berries, I try, under their bunches, in addition to the grass bedding, to put upside down foam trays from under the food, so that the fruits are better ventilated and illuminated by the sun. As a result, the number of berries spoiled by rot was reduced to isolated cases.
After harvesting, I weed and loosen the beds, removing unnecessary mustache and damaged leaves, and no longer touch the planting until next spring. Previously, I tried to change the place of residence of strawberries every four years, but now I keep them in one place for six years. For reproduction during the fruiting period, I mark the most productive bushes, so that later I can take a mustache from them. When I did this kind of work for the first time, I was shocked!
It turns out that it is the fruitful bushes that practically do not give a mustache. And all those pretty, strong, rooted sockets, which I used to happily transplant to new beds, are mostly descendants of bushes that are not too burdened with berries. So now I strictly follow from which plants I take planting material.
I usually plant in July-August, as I usually plant a mustache where garlic grew before. On the beds (by the way, almost all of them are 45 cm wide) I make the holes in a checkerboard pattern so that the step between the holes in one line is at least 40 cm.In the holes I put fertilizer for berry crops, I mix it with the ground and plant the sockets without deepening the growth points. If the rosettes are small, then sometimes I plant them in pits three at a time, placing them in a triangle.
After planting, I water it and, if it's hot, I shade it with a non-woven cloth or bunches of plucked grass. In the fall, when planting winter garlic, be sure to plant it between strawberries: about one thing for four or six bushes. I also really like planting tulips on strawberry beds. They bloom early, decorating the still empty beds, and then dry up, without interfering with the berries to pour. I don’t dig out their bulbs until it’s time to change the strawberry bed. Then, together with her, they move to a new place.
FLOWERS ON STRAWBERRY. DELETE OR NOT? VIDEO
© Author: Tatiana Vasilievna. Izhevsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Strawberries at home all year round - varieties
- Epin's processing of strawberries, raspberries and currants my reviews
- Planting strawberries if you are in the country, in the garden only on weekends
- 23 secret cultivation of dessert strawberries
- Early strawberries - how to get a crop. Useful Tips
- Growing remontant large-fruited garden strawberries from seeds
- Strawberry cultivation in Karelia - planting and care
- Strawberries from seed-planting, rearing and breeding
- Care for strawberries planted this spring and bearing fruit for a long time
- How to grow seedlings ("boys" and "girls")
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