17 DOUBTS IN PEOPLE'S ADVICE AND MEANS
And sometimes it turns out that, for example, in winter we with whole families diligently collect shells, onion husks and used tea, but we cannot use them correctly due to our common misconceptions. So I propose to use common sense and discuss the current situation.
Many authors it is strongly recommended to break off potato stalks and pick flowers to increase planting yields... This really stimulates the growth of the bushes. But! It's just about the tops! I once tried to do this, and the vigorously regrown greens (photo 1) only reduced my harvest (photo 2). Perhaps, for the purity of the experiment, the experiment had to be repeated, but I did not want this at all.
That to prevent the appearance of a wireworm, many summer residents advise to thoroughly sprinkle the tubers with lime before planting... Yes, the pest will bypass such a "delicacy" per kilometer. But won't yellow leaves appear on the potato bushes after that? I think more than likely. After all, the lack of dissolved iron salts in the soil (i.e. chlorosis) is just due to excess lime. Or am I wrong? I will continue about the tops. It has now become fashionable to mow it a week before harvesting. I believe that then the dug tubers will be poorly stored, because their skin has not yet had time to coarse. Personally, I mow the tops three to four days before harvesting - in mid-August. There are already no tops as such: they burned out either under the sun, or from phytophthora (photo 3). The peel on potatoes by that time had long been coarse, therefore, there are no problems with their keeping quality.
It is believed that if the potatoes have not bloomed or are blooming rapidly, then there will be no harvest... Is not it? After all, now there are varieties that fade in just a week, or even do without flowers at all. However, if the potato should bloom, but not bloom, then look for the reasons. The fault may be prolonged rains or drought, poor-quality planting material, a large dose of fertilizers, shading, dense planting and, finally, the invasion of a colorado that has eaten the buds in their infancy. But! Be that as it may, the tubers will still be formed, although they will be small and unsightly. Tested on my own experience.
There is an opinion that black currants bear fruit well in the shade... Indeed, she does not mind being under tall trees at noon, fleeing the scorching rays. But most of the time she still needs to be in the sun. It is also generally accepted that since currants love starch, then potato peelings should be added under it. But dripping in the peelings, do you think that they saturate the currants with starch? Not! They just rot.
To really feed the bush, you must first dry these cleanings, then pour hot water and let it brew. And only this broth will benefit the currants. Along the way, I want to remind you about onion skins: they also rot in potato holes. Do not be lazy to make the same decoction out of it!
It seems senseless to me, and advice to drop rusty iron under fruit trees. Alas, plants do not assimilate rust, because such iron is trivalent, and our pets need "soil", bivalent iron. Do not waste time, it is better to process plantings on foliage with iron chelate, and add a 1% solution of vitriol under the root.
I often come across this advice: tomatoes need to be watered rarely, but abundantly... I tried to do this, and the result was disastrous - all the fruits cracked. I realized that at high temperatures, tomatoes need to be watered every day, but little by little (photo 4), so that the ground is constantly wet. If in the greenhouse the thermometer shows below 25 °, then you can try to water rarely, but abundantly. However, my experience says that vegetables that have not been watered for more than a week perceive this as a signal that the season is over and curtail their fruiting. This is especially noticeable on the example of pumpkin: its skin becomes firm, i.e. the plant is preparing for harvesting.
Again, it is believed that in the heat after 10:00, you cannot water the plants - they will get burns. Once I could not stand it and, passing by drooping cucumbers under the scorching sun, I watered them. So what? There were no burns. Why? In extreme heat, drops of water evaporate from the foliage faster than they have time to burn themselves. Still, it is really better to water the beds in the morning or in the evening. And during the day - only in urgent cases.
Reference by topic: Light landing and other myths and superstitions: true or NO?
More often to combat the scoop and whitefly, it is recommended to put an empty shell on sticks stuck in the ground, or to make "models" of butterflies from plastic... I think all this is unlikely to mislead pests, especially if the garden is large and there are a lot of weeds on which nothing prevents butterflies from laying their eggs. Wouldn't it be better to treat cabbage and other vegetables with ammonia or vinegar?
What is the use of used tea bags?? It seems to me that after exposure to steep boiling water, their contents can hardly serve as top dressing. Only dry and unused tea can be used as fertilizer. But such bags can improve the structure of the soil. Some summer residents also suggest using them as mulch. But where to find so many bags? And don't forget that drinking tea can attract harmful insects.
It is believed that an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock does not have a periodicity in fruiting... For me, it was only in the sixth year that such a fruiting tree failed. I confess that I have always liked columnar apple trees for their compactness and slenderness. But once on the market I was offered a columnar pear. I bought it and planted it in the garden, and it turned out to be an ordinary tree with an ordinary spreading crown. In one of the nurseries, they explained to me that it was a Night Werth hybrid pear, which has long been grown in Europe. And our unscrupulous breeders multiply it and sell it to us as a "column". Columnar plums, cherries, cherries and even currants are also offered on the market. Whereas, besides the columnar apple trees, there are no other "columns". So be on the lookout.
For to protect plantings in the greenhouse from ants, summer residents now everywhere began to plant parsley around its perimeter... Unfortunately, this does not give anything (except for obtaining spicy greens), and it cannot give. Summer residents also like to water the places where ants accumulate with boiling water. Now this is more effective, but ruthless. I personally use a more gentle method. I prepare a mixture of fresh yeast, honey and sugar (1: 1: 1), put it on cardboard, and the ants disappear. The beds are clean (photo 5).
А can the moth be scared off by the flowers of tansy or wormwood? Let's figure it out. The moth wakes up in early or mid-May. At this time, tansy and wormwood are small bushes, and they are still far from flowering. And the first generation of the moth is already inside the set apples. Its second generation will be in a month, when our "scarers" are just about to bloom. In August, the third flight of the butterfly takes place, and the flowers of wormwood and tansy by this time wither and crumble. So how can these plants be able to repel pests? I personally studied this whole cycle and came to the conclusion: they will not be able to. And you don't need to plant them under the apple trees - they will only take away moisture and nutrition from the trees (photo 6), and they can cause allergies.
Often summer residents advise when planting seedlings, trample down the trunk circles with your feet so that there are no voids in the soil and it would stick to the roots... But we forget that the roots need just air to take root, and by trampling down we make it difficult to access it. Isn't it better to alternate adding soil with watering from a watering can? Then the water will fill all the voids and press the soil to the roots.
It is also recommended to make depressions in the center of the trunk circles so that the water does not spread to the sides. It seems to me that the accumulation of moisture in such pits can lead to preheating of the root necks, and then the seedlings will die. I make holes in the form of small earthen mounds along the outer circle of the planting holes, and in this case the water completely gets to the roots.
Some gardeners are convinced that peaches (photo 7) are bitter due to the fact that, in the heat, hydrocyanic acid passes from the seeds to the pulp of the fruit... And I thought so before. But this acid is also found in apricots, cherries, plums and cherry plums. Why are they not bitter in the heat? This means that this is different. I dug into the literature and found out: everything from the fact that there is a lot of nitrogen in the soil. And abundant watering in the heat at the same time causes the flow of gum in the peaches, so the fruits are bitter.
It always seemed strange to me that foliar dressing can be replaced with root... In one book I recently read that such macrofertilizers as nitrogen, iron, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium and phosphorus are not assimilated by plants through foliage. Trace elements (boron, iodine, manganese, copper) are another matter. For example, their use on foliage during flowering tomatoes promotes good pollination. And with the same chlorosis, foliar and root dressings are used in order to quickly save the plantings.
Many authors advise adding sand to clay soil to improve its structure. and breathability. But in order to be useful, it must be applied in a ratio of 1: 1, otherwise, when moisture gets in, viscous dense clay with a small amount of sand will turn into "cement". Has anyone tried to mix large quantities of sand and clay? That's it. Very time consuming. I know what I'm talking about - I have a heavy loam. Therefore, I abandoned this idea and introduced 20% humus and compost each. Did you achieve what you expected? I will say this: the issue was resolved positively for some time.
Some experienced gardeners to ensure better adhesion of the scion with the stock, it is recommended to put on plastic bags at the grafting sites to reduce moisture evaporation... In cool weather, accretion under such a shelter really goes faster, but if it is hot, then the packages turn into "pressure chambers" with a high temperature, which is why the cuttings germinate prematurely and die from desiccation. It happened to me just once. Therefore, when vaccinating, I would not advise using any sachets - it is better not to risk it (photo 8).
Seedlings with leaves on branches are often planted.... In my opinion, this is wrong. Let's think it over. In dug trees, the roots no longer extract moisture from the soil, and the leaves continue to evaporate moisture. And it turns out that the plants are drying up. Hence their poor survival rate. What's the conclusion? Simple: the leaves of the seedlings must be cut off when planting.
Some gardeners sprinkle the earth with carbide to fight the bear... I think that he can kill a pest only in one case - with a direct hit. And since the bear is deep in its moves, it is almost impossible to get into it. Isn't it easier to use manure against this "beast"?
Reference by topic: Myths of gardeners and gardeners about fruit and their “debunking”
© Author: Galina Ivanovna Schekaleva Art. Petrovskaya Krasnodar Territory
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Many small berries on grapes - the reasons?
- To dig or not to dig the ground for onions and other vegetables? My Reviews
- Do potatoes have narrow and long leaves - is it a disease or not? Reasons and remedies
- How to green the fence - the choice of plants
- Peppermint: growing on the windowsill
- Problems with the cultivation of cucumbers and their solution
- Do I need 24x7 color lighting at home?
- Why on pepper there are no ovaries (buds)
- How many leaves leave on tomatoes
- Why Tomatoes Crack
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