Growing pears - reviews about varieties, planting time, care for seedlings
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GROWING PEARS IN THE MIDDLE LAND, IN SIBERIA AND IN THE URALS
Pear is one of the most beloved and popular fruit trees. True, it frightens many with the complexity of growing. But everything is not as difficult as it might seem, especially for a novice gardener. You just need to know some important points.
So, you have purchased a seedling. Or just going. In this case, pay attention to the choice of the variety for your region; when buying, try to find out on which rootstock the variety is grafted. Examine the roots - there should be a lot of them, no breaks or rot. And if the seedling is sold with an open root system, then there should be no leaves.
That is, you need to acquire a plant either in early spring or in autumn, after leaf fall. Now you can buy only seedlings in pots or by coming directly to the nursery, where the plant will be dug out of the ground in front of you and the root system will be well packed.
It is important to know which variety you are purchasing, they are self-fertile (for example, in Memory of Yakovlev, Memory of Timofeev, Tenderness, Grand Champion, Banquet) or self-infertile (Bergamot autumn, Favorite Clappa, Irista, Curé, Bere Dil, Nart - not every year they give their own pollen, so they need a pollinator). For autumn bergamot, the varieties Bessemyanka, Tonkovotka are suitable as pollinators, for Favorite Klapp - Bere Boek, Bere Beyk, Bon, Louise, for Irista - Nika, Fairy, Dessertnaya Rossoshanskaya, for Curé - Winter decanca, autumn decanca, Bon Louise. But even if the variety is self-fertile, with cross-pollination, the yield can increase, which means that it makes sense to always plant more than one pear tree nearby.
Landing time is also best taken seriously. In the southern regions, for example, this crop is strongly discouraged from planting in the spring, because the heat quickly sets in, and the newly planted tree is very sensitive to drying out of the soil.
Therefore, in the south, try to plant a pear in the fall, water it well, and for the next season, carefully monitor the soil moisture: water abundantly at least once a week, and sometimes twice a week. In other regions, it can also be planted in spring if it is long enough and it rains regularly.
When choosing a landing site, keep in mind that the pear is light and thermophilic. Of course, it will bear fruit in a little shade, but the fruits will be tastier, and the yield is higher if the lighting is excellent. And try to find a place protected from the winds.
The size of the planting pit depends on how fertile the soil is. If it is sandy, then it is better to dig a hole deeper and wider, 80 × 80 cm, and fill it with humus. On loams, it can be smaller, 50-60 cm in depth and diameter. At the very beginning, the seedling needs a good start, so it is worth paying special attention to refueling the planting pit.
When planting, the root collar should be at ground level (plant at the same level as the seedling grows in the container). If you buy a seedling with an open root system, then determine the root collar yourself - this is the place from where the first upper roots begin to grow.
The distance between the seedlings should be such that the trees in adulthood only slightly touch the crowns, or more. Here you have to take into account what kind of tree you are planting, what kind of rootstock (vigorous, weak), what kind. The vigorous ones are seed (seedlings of local varieties of pears). Weak - clonal (modern ones are PG-2, PG-17-16, PG-12, M9). A distance of 3-5 m is left between plants on vigorous rootstocks, on low-growing ones - 4-2 m.
After planting a seedling, water it abundantly. It is convenient to pour water into the still open planting hole with a seedling installed in it, so the soil is better wetted. And after that, the pit is filled up and watered again. This is necessary not only to keep the entire soil around the root system of the seedling moist, but also to remove air voids and ensure maximum contact of the roots with the soil.
For watering, I recommend using sodium humate, which perfectly stimulates the development of the root system and helps the seedlings to take root well in a new place.
After the planting hole has been filled up and watered, the trunk circle must be mulched, for example, with mown grass or incompletely rotted compost.
Maintain the correct crown height and size by trimming. It is best not to let the pear grow taller than 3 m, otherwise caring for and harvesting it becomes difficult.
Another important point. Conifers should not grow near pears. They acidify the soil and weaken the growth of pears, and the juniper serves as an intermediate host for such a dangerous fungal disease as rust. Moreover, the juniper itself does not suffer, but it is the pear that is affected.
And a few words about harvesting. The pear has very fragile wood. Therefore, do not step on the branches with your feet if the tree is tall and you have to climb up a ladder. And do not jerk the fruit - the branch can also easily break off. Take the fruit with one hand, hold the branch with the other and gently unscrew it along with the stalk.
GROWING PEARS IN SIBERIA AND IN THE URALS
Gardeners are wary of growing pears in Siberia and the Urals. It is believed that this is a southern culture, and only lukashki are suitable for harsh conditions. But these are old varieties obtained in the Far East at the beginning of the XNUMXth century. by crossing the Ussuri pear with European varieties.
They are winter-hardy, fruitful, but they all ripen at the same time in early September and are stored no longer than a week, while the taste of the fruits is mediocre. They can only be used for processing. But now modern varieties of pears have already been created for the Urals and Siberia, which are significantly superior in fruit quality to the old varieties. These are, for example, varieties of selection of the Research Institute of Horticulture of Siberia named after I. MA Lisavenko - Perun with large (average weight 135 g) fruits, Svarog (fruits 100-150 g), Lel, Karataevskaya. Pears are delicious, incomparably better than onions.
Many gardeners in these regions have tested and continue to test different varieties of pears in their gardens. For example, Alexander Voikov from Khakassia is trying to grow varieties that are usually planted in the gardens of the middle lane - Severyanka, Svetlyanka, Memory of Yakovlev, Lyubimitsa Yakovlev, Autumn Dream. Severyanka, according to the gardener, winters well in Khakassia, without damage, gives sweet, very tasty fruits. This is a pear of summer ripening, the fruits are stored for no longer than 2 weeks. Severyanka is an old variety, but deserves attention. And Svetlyanka is a modern variety, distinguished by fruits with oily, tasty, juicy pulp, which ripen in September and can be stored for up to 3 months. The gardener notes that in severe frosts, damage to the branches is possible, but the crown is restored and even gives a small harvest in the same year. The rest of the listed varieties freeze slightly, so they can be grown only on skeleton-formers that are resistant to low temperatures. In this case, pears delight with wonderful fruits for many years.
See also: Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree
Alexander Mikhailovich also grows varieties of the Chelyabinsk selection. Of these, Krasulya, Myth, Zarechnaya and the new Permyachka variety showed themselves well. These are winter-hardy trees, which in season delight with wonderful juicy sweet fruits.
The experience of Tatyana Vasilyeva from Irkutsk is also interesting. Of course, lukashki are also planted in her garden, among them the best variety is Tyoma, with large (up to 180 g) fruits, fruitful, resistant to all the vicissitudes of the Siberian winter. The fruits ripen in early September and can be eaten fresh or used for processing.
The varieties of Krasnoyarsk selection have proven themselves excellent - Veselinka, Small with small (30-40 g) fruits, but fragrant and tasty, it is a pleasure to eat them fresh straight from the tree.
And what about Siberia without real Siberian varieties? These are the well-known Lel, Svarog, Perun with excellent characteristics, bred in the Scientific Research Institute of Horticulture of Siberia named after V.I. M. A. Lisavenko. Fruits of the Lel variety ripen early, they are aromatic and sweet. The fruits of the other two varieties are no worse. At Tatyana Ignatievna, these varieties are doing well, yielding crops, sometimes freezing, but recovering.
Apparently, due to the microclimate on the site. However, many gardeners in Siberia freeze these same varieties and do not give a crop. Therefore, when planting, it is worthwhile to carefully select a place protected from winds, sunny. And watch. However, in general, these varieties are zoned for the conditions of Siberia, and there are great chances that they will take root in the garden. If the microclimate in your garden is unfavorable, try stanza formation.
And also grow in a garden near Irkutsk Kuyumskaya and Sibiryachka varieties with medium-sized (50 g) fragrant fruits of a sweet and sour taste, and the trees winter beautifully.
In the Urals, pear varieties of the South Ural Research Institute of Horticulture and Potato Growing (Yekaterinburg) show themselves well. Gardener Nikolai Koshka from Pervouralsk, Sverdlovsk Region, grows varieties of this institute in his garden. In the Talitsa variety, the fruits are juicy, sweet and sour, ripen in mid-August, and are stored for no longer than a week. The tree is winter-hardy, has never been damaged by frost and gives a harvest every year. At the end of August, the Zarechnaya pear gives fruit. They are quite large (100 g), with delicate pulp, sweet with a barely perceptible sourness. Trees also do not freeze, yields are high every year. In early September, Chusovaya ripens. Its fruits are in the form of a diamond, sweet without acid, with a juicy buttery pulp. Unripe fruits are tasty too, without an astringent taste. By the end of September, the fruits of the Guidon variety can be harvested. Their shape is similar to a pear, they are large (up to 140 g), with a dense crispy juicy pulp of sweet and sour taste.
GROWING PEAR IN THE MIDDLE STRIP
Here, pears have sweeter fruits than in the harsh climate, but not the same as in the south. Although southern varieties can also be grown. For example, a gardener and our regular author Gennady Fedorovich Raspopov from the Novgorod region grafts varieties for the Chernozem zone into the crown of winter-hardy pears - Allegro, Orlovskaya beauty, August dew (early ripening), Nika, Velesa, Marshal Zhukov (autumn), Polesskaya, Belorusskaya late (late ripening).
Very sweet tasty fruits are produced by the Marble variety for the Central and Black Earth regions. True, in the $ northwest the tree sometimes froze under - g. But in good years it gave very large, beautiful and tasty fruits that are not affected by scab.
Also, large sweet fruits are produced by the Belarusian variety Prosto Maria and Bryansk Kokinskaya. The varieties are fast-growing, late autumn ripening, fruits are stored for a long time.
Lydia Vanina from the Moscow region for 10 years tested different varieties of pears, grafting them into the crown of trees. Vidnaya, Velesa, Avgustovskaya dew, Prosto Maria, Dukhmyanaya, Lagodnaya, Krasavitsa Chernenko, Bryansk beauty, Skorospelka from Michurinsk showed themselves well.
If we talk about the most winter-hardy, tasty and shelf-stable, then Veles, Skorospelka from Michurinsk, Prosto Maria, Bryansk beauty showed themselves as such.
Veles winters well in the Moscow region and gives rather large (up to 170 g) fruits of excellent taste, which are kept cool for up to 3 months.
Skorospelka from Michurinsk has small (90 g), but beautiful yellow and tasty fruits. They ripen early, in mid-July.
The fruits of the Bryanskaya krasavitsa variety are one of the most delicious and beautiful. They are large (200 g), with a dark red blush, with an oily juicy sweet pulp - a pure delight! They ripen in early September and can be stored in a cool place for up to a month. And another important quality - the tree is winter-hardy in the Moscow region.
Another autumn variety is Just Maria. Fruits are yellow, weighing about 150 g, with delicate sweet pulp of excellent taste.
See also: Growing pears in the suburbs - suitable varieties
VARIETIES OF PEARS NEW 2019-2020
In 2019, the State Variety Commission took under protection a new pear variety of the outstanding breeder L.A. Kotova (South Ural Research Institute of Horticulture and Potato Growing) Flute. Summer ripening period. Fruits weighing 100 g, pear-shaped, light yellow with a pink barrel. White pulp, medium density, fine-grained, juicy, sweet and sour taste, 4, 4 points. Recommended for testing in the Volgo-Vyatka (4) region of the Russian Federation.
Another Ural pear variety of another famous breeder E. A. Falkenberg is Udachnaya Falkenberg. Autumn ripening period. The fruits are large, weighing 180 g, elongated pear-shaped, with a bumpy surface. The main color is green, the integumentary color is crimson on most of the fruit.
The pulp is white, dense, tender, oily, juicy. Sweet and sour taste with spice, 4, 7 points. The second grade of E. A. Falkenberg, taken under protection in the State Register in 2019, is Favorite. Autumn, fruits are large, weighing 140 g, short pear-shaped. The main color is green, the integumentary color is yellow throughout the fruit. The pulp is white, medium density, tender, fine-grained. The taste is sweet, 4, 5 points.
In 2020, two varieties for the south were taken under protection with the issuance of patents: the French Sepuna and the Crimean Beauty of Taurida.
See also: Growing pears in the Moscow region - planting varieties and care
© Author: T. VERESOVA
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Due to inexperience, our neighbor has already transplanted a young pear twice, and this is such a stress for the plant! A pear tree needs a well-lit place during the day in a quiet, windless corner of the garden. At Kuma, the seedling suffered for a whole year in a draft, blown by the north wind. Then she transplanted it closer to home, but there the old apple tree provided extensive shade for most of the daylight hours. It would be easier to cut down an old tree, from which there is no use anymore, one foliage, and leave a small pear alone, these fruit trees do not tolerate transplantation.
For beginners in gardening, I will mention another important point for planting pear trees - the root neck of the seedling should be approximately at ground level (excessive deepening or exposing it can lead to poor growth and lack of flowering). But if a mistake has already been made, with a highly located root collar, the tree should be more often spudded, and with a deepened one, the earth should be raked from it.
To prevent stagnation of water and rotting of the roots, I advise you to make grooves in the near-trunk circle if the pear was originally planted in a place of accumulation of precipitation or surface groundwater. To protect against gusts of cold wind, you can put up a fence and decorate it with curly annual flowers or vegetables. The neighborhood of crops also matters: you should not grow plants with powerful roots and stems (sunflower, corn) next to a pear tree.
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A strong wind broke a one-year-old pear seedling. There was a small stump left, which was sprayed with Epi-nom. And after a couple of weeks, I noticed three swollen buds on the stem. Of these, three trunks about 1 m high have grown in two years. One has 5 well-developed side branches, the second has 9, they are a little smaller, the third trunk is quite frail. What is the best way to form a plant?
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- If you want to form a pear tree into one trunk, choose a more developed one, in your case it is a trunk with five side branches. Cut the rest in early spring, leaving no hemp (treat the cuts with garden pitch). You can also do this: let the most developed process grow up and to the sides, and limit the second in growth by cutting off the top above the lateral branching conveniently located for you. In this case, you turn the cut off shoot into an ordinary fruit-bearing branch, on which you will get a crop in a year. Remove the frail escape.
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Two pear trees grow on my site: Veles and Memory of Yakovlev. The harvest from both is excellent, I collect the last fruits in October, and they are stored for several more months. Today I would like to talk about the importance of spring feeding. Spring top dressing for pears is applied in the amount of 2/3 of the norm and is aimed at ensuring that the tree normally moves away from hibernation and is able to proceed to the next growing season with renewed vigor.
In addition, it helps to improve the quality of the upcoming harvest and provides a supply of trace elements until the autumn feeding. The first time you need to feed the pear immediately after waking up from hibernation. Fertilizers need nitrogen-containing, while it is important to water the plant abundantly. Then after two weeks you need to feed with organic matter. To do this, in a near-trunk circle with a diameter of 1 m, we dig a groove and pour a solution into it - half a kilo of manure per 10 liters of water. Mineral fertilizers are best used in the autumn, when the harvest is harvested.
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This year there were much fewer fruits on the tree, but all as one juicy and beautiful. From mid-August, I stop watering and loosening the ground under fruit trees and berry bushes. Time is needed for better maturation of wood and cessation of growth of shoots of the current year.
To help fruit trees better endure the winter cold, they need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. I apply fertilizers into small ditches dug along the perimeter of the tree crown, i.e. where the bulk of the roots are located.
Many gardeners apply them right next to the tree trunk, but this is just a waste of fertilizer.
It is undesirable to apply nitrogen fertilizers closer to autumn - this can cause a new growth of branches and reduce the winter hardiness of the plant.
After harvesting, I spray the trees against aphids, mites and scab. I scrupulously remove all rotten and dry fruits. I transfer props from under summer varieties of apple trees under loaded branches of autumn or winter varieties so that they do not break off under the weight of the crop, and also to improve the illumination of fruits and leaves inside the crown.
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Then my thirteen-year-old grandson decided to cut the grass. Well done! Yes, of course, the thought flashed across my mind to remind him of the pear, but I decided that the guy was big, he would figure it out himself. But the grandson got carried away, pear and ...
I saw it only the next day. He severely injured the trunk of the tree in many places. And how I knew! Something told me that not all is well in the garden.
Seeing the crippled tree, I almost cried, I felt so sorry for him. She began to feverishly think about how he could be helped. And I thought of it: an agave is growing in my house!
I plucked a few leaves, cut them lengthwise on one side, "unrolled" so that the area of the cuts oozing with healing juice was larger, and covered all the wounds on the trunk with these "lotions", which I then bandaged (at this stage, the grandson was already helping).
Every day I slightly moistened the bandages with a solution of the same agave, and did this for a week. And then I looked: buds appeared on the tree and began to bloom. Then I lost my head for joy and decided that the tree had recovered. She took off all the bandages and did not even think to shade the pear weakened from the wounds with anything. The main thing is that for only two or three days I lost sight of my sufferer. But the weather was hot, and, going up to the pear, I saw that all the leaves of it had burned out. This is how my tree died ...
I told this story so that every gardener remembers that there must be aloe in the house in the country. After all, this plant is a real ambulance!
But we must also remember that the head must also be constantly kept “on”.
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Why does the pear not bloom
An orchard was laid out 10 years ago. We are collecting a good harvest. And only one pear did not bloom, although the variety was zoned, and they fed abundantly. The neighbor suggested: perhaps in summer the tree does not have enough moisture - in the dry season, pears need to be watered every week (50 liters per adult plant). He advised not to get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers (in the second half of summer), an excess of which contributes to the growth of leaves, and not the setting of flower buds. In addition, such a tree is more vulnerable to disease. If there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, in addition to refusing to fertilize, you can drive a few nails into the tree trunk or sow legumes or clovers in the near-trunk circle, which actively take nitrogen from the ground. I listened to the advice. And already last year, the pear blossomed.
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Of all fruit crops, pear trees begin to bear fruit later. Abundant application of nitrogen fertilizers, indeed, postpones the beginning of this process even more. Nails in the trunk will not have a positive effect on the plant (in the soil, as a rule, there is enough iron for fruit), although they will not cause harm.
Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Science