8 Review (s)

  1. A. MARYIN Chelyabinsk region

    Due to inexperience, our neighbor has already transplanted a young pear twice, and this is such a stress for the plant! A pear tree needs a well-lit place during the day in a quiet, windless corner of the garden. At Kuma, the seedling suffered for a whole year in a draft, blown by the north wind. Then she transplanted it closer to home, but there the old apple tree provided extensive shade for most of the daylight hours. It would be easier to cut down an old tree, from which there is no use anymore, one foliage, and leave a small pear alone, these fruit trees do not tolerate transplantation.

    For beginners in gardening, I will mention another important point for planting pear trees - the root neck of the seedling should be approximately at ground level (excessive deepening or exposing it can lead to poor growth and lack of flowering). But if a mistake has already been made, with a highly located root collar, the tree should be more often spudded, and with a deepened one, the earth should be raked from it.
    To prevent stagnation of water and rotting of the roots, I advise you to make grooves in the near-trunk circle if the pear was originally planted in a place of accumulation of precipitation or surface groundwater. To protect against gusts of cold wind, you can put up a fence and decorate it with curly annual flowers or vegetables. The neighborhood of crops also matters: you should not grow plants with powerful roots and stems (sunflower, corn) next to a pear tree.

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  2. Ekaterina Drozd, Chelyabinsk

    A strong wind broke a one-year-old pear seedling. There was a small stump left, which was sprayed with Epi-nom. And after a couple of weeks, I noticed three swollen buds on the stem. Of these, three trunks about 1 m high have grown in two years. One has 5 well-developed side branches, the second has 9, they are a little smaller, the third trunk is quite frail. What is the best way to form a plant?

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    • OOO "Sad"

      - If you want to form a pear tree into one trunk, choose a more developed one, in your case it is a trunk with five side branches. Cut the rest in early spring, leaving no hemp (treat the cuts with garden pitch). You can also do this: let the most developed process grow up and to the sides, and limit the second in growth by cutting off the top above the lateral branching conveniently located for you. In this case, you turn the cut off shoot into an ordinary fruit-bearing branch, on which you will get a crop in a year. Remove the frail escape.

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  3. N.L. GUDIMOV, Penza

    Two pear trees grow on my site: Veles and Memory of Yakovlev. The harvest from both is excellent, I collect the last fruits in October, and they are stored for several more months. Today I would like to talk about the importance of spring feeding. Spring top dressing for pears is applied in the amount of 2/3 of the norm and is aimed at ensuring that the tree normally moves away from hibernation and is able to proceed to the next growing season with renewed vigor.
    In addition, it helps to improve the quality of the upcoming harvest and provides a supply of trace elements until the autumn feeding. The first time you need to feed the pear immediately after waking up from hibernation. Fertilizers need nitrogen-containing, while it is important to water the plant abundantly. Then after two weeks you need to feed with organic matter. To do this, in a near-trunk circle with a diameter of 1 m, we dig a groove and pour a solution into it - half a kilo of manure per 10 liters of water. Mineral fertilizers are best used in the autumn, when the harvest is harvested.

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  4. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    This year there were much fewer fruits on the tree, but all as one juicy and beautiful. From mid-August, I stop watering and loosening the ground under fruit trees and berry bushes. Time is needed for better maturation of wood and cessation of growth of shoots of the current year.

    To help fruit trees better endure the winter cold, they need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. I apply fertilizers into small ditches dug along the perimeter of the tree crown, i.e. where the bulk of the roots are located.
    Many gardeners apply them right next to the tree trunk, but this is just a waste of fertilizer.
    It is undesirable to apply nitrogen fertilizers closer to autumn - this can cause a new growth of branches and reduce the winter hardiness of the plant.

    After harvesting, I spray the trees against aphids, mites and scab. I scrupulously remove all rotten and dry fruits. I transfer props from under summer varieties of apple trees under loaded branches of autumn or winter varieties so that they do not break off under the weight of the crop, and also to improve the illumination of fruits and leaves inside the crown.

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  5. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Then my thirteen-year-old grandson decided to cut the grass. Well done! Yes, of course, the thought flashed across my mind to remind him of the pear, but I decided that the guy was big, he would figure it out himself. But the grandson got carried away, pear and ...

    I saw it only the next day. He severely injured the trunk of the tree in many places. And how I knew! Something told me that not all is well in the garden.

    Seeing the crippled tree, I almost cried, I felt so sorry for him. She began to feverishly think about how he could be helped. And I thought of it: an agave is growing in my house!

    I plucked a few leaves, cut them lengthwise on one side, "unrolled" so that the area of ​​the cuts oozing with healing juice was larger, and covered all the wounds on the trunk with these "lotions", which I then bandaged (at this stage, the grandson was already helping).
    Every day I slightly moistened the bandages with a solution of the same agave, and did this for a week. And then I looked: buds appeared on the tree and began to bloom. Then I lost my head for joy and decided that the tree had recovered. She took off all the bandages and did not even think to shade the pear weakened from the wounds with anything. The main thing is that for only two or three days I lost sight of my sufferer. But the weather was hot, and, going up to the pear, I saw that all the leaves of it had burned out. This is how my tree died ...
    I told this story so that every gardener remembers that there must be aloe in the house in the country. After all, this plant is a real ambulance!
    But we must also remember that the head must also be constantly kept “on”.

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  6. Andrey MARIN, Chelyabinsk region

    Why does the pear not bloom
    An orchard was laid out 10 years ago. We are collecting a good harvest. And only one pear did not bloom, although the variety was zoned, and they fed abundantly. The neighbor suggested: perhaps in summer the tree does not have enough moisture - in the dry season, pears need to be watered every week (50 liters per adult plant). He advised not to get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers (in the second half of summer), an excess of which contributes to the growth of leaves, and not the setting of flower buds. In addition, such a tree is more vulnerable to disease. If there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, in addition to refusing to fertilize, you can drive a few nails into the tree trunk or sow legumes or clovers in the near-trunk circle, which actively take nitrogen from the ground. I listened to the advice. And already last year, the pear blossomed.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Of all fruit crops, pear trees begin to bear fruit later. Abundant application of nitrogen fertilizers, indeed, postpones the beginning of this process even more. Nails in the trunk will not have a positive effect on the plant (in the soil, as a rule, there is enough iron for fruit), although they will not cause harm.

      Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Science

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