Growing raspberries in the warm beds of Rozuma - my reviews, planting and care
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RASPBERRY ON WARM BEDS - TIPS FOR GROWING AND CARE
Raspberries are a health elixir for humans. The organic acids they contain are especially useful for low stomach acidity. They have a detrimental effect on microorganisms that cause intestinal infections. For colds, tea with raspberries is indispensable. Most of the species of this culture were known in the Ancient World; the first mention of the existence of wild raspberries is in the manuscripts of the XNUMXnd century BC. e. For centuries, this plant has been one of the most popular fruit crops grown in gardens.
A friend of mine brought me two raspberry bushes 13 years ago. I planted her in a sunny place, as written in clever books, and looked after in good faith, but she looked rather "sad" on our sands. After studying the theory and listening to lectures by practitioners, I, together with my husband, built a raspberry-tree.
In the sunniest place, they put a box of flat slate measuring 1 xb m.The slate was dug into the ground 40 cm, 15 cm above the ground were left.The root system of raspberries is superficial, so this depth of the dug-in walls of the box is quite enough to prevent uncontrolled growth. In addition, a reliable trellis was installed.
The bushes were planted in two rows, 15 cm away from the curbs. While the shoots were small, we planted them on a trellis and tied them up, which made it easier to care for and harvest. All the shoots between the rows were removed, only the one next to the bushes was left, therefore this method is called bush. Raspberries began to look much better, but they had to be watered and fertilized quite often.
In 2015, Vladimir Nikitovich Rozum gave lectures in Kiev about his warm beds. I was interested in his technology, and after listening to several lectures, I considered it expedient to introduce his ideas on my site. So, in the spring of 2016, our usual raspberry tree was transformed into a TGR.
To create this "warm bed of Rozum", it was necessary to expand the box to one and a half meters, transplant one row of raspberries closer to the edge of the box, retreating 15 cm, and dig a trench one and a half bayonet deep in the middle.
The trench was filled with organic matter - large, medium and small - and poured abundantly with bokash (effective microorganisms on bran, accelerating the decomposition of organic matter and displacing putrefactive microorganisms). The trench is replenished with organic matter from time to time - there is always where to carry kitchen cleanings, or weeds, or branches cut from bushes and trees, and not only their own, but also those of neighbors.
We stopped feeding raspberries. What for? She herself takes from the trench all the necessary nutrients that she only needs at a given time. The trench from above is always covered with a layer of fallen leaves or straw so that moisture does not evaporate and the bed looks aesthetically pleasing.
On warm beds, we began to grow raspberries in a continuous strip.
A large number of young shoots-offspring appears on each bush, and in the spring we remove the excess, primarily the weakest, leaving young shoots that grow between old bushes, forming new ones. We leave no more than six young shoots, and we dig out old bushes over time.
Thus, in a continuous strip, old bushes, which have a decline in productivity, are replaced by young ones.
We normalize the number of shoots and plant them on a trellis so that everyone gets enough light and nutrition, so the yield is constantly increasing. Watering has become much less frequent. Raspberries really liked these conditions, and she does not get tired of thanking us with abundant harvests.
We grow several varieties of remontant raspberries, which are capable of bearing fruit on both biennial and annual shoots. We prefer to grow these varieties on annual shoots - this has a number of advantages. In autumn, we remove the entire aboveground part, and with it, most of the pests and diseases. In late autumn, we definitely carry out subwinter watering: for this culture this is of great importance, since in the autumn time it sets buds of growth in the root system. In addition, winter hardiness improves.
Given these properties of raspberries, we try to moisten the soil as deep as possible. In spring, new healthy shoots appear, the berries on which begin to ripen at the end of July, and end with frosts. With this method of cultivation, the yield increases several times.
TARE FOR RASPBERRY
The agrotechnology of horticultural crops is an endlessly changing creative process, where all sorts of amazing situations await us. One morning I went to the raspberry tree, I looked, and on some bushes the leaves seemed to be combed with a comb, and small insects were flying around. I quickly spread the organic insecticide and sprayed the raspberries over the leaf. The bugs either died or scattered - it is not known, but with a sense of accomplishment I went to do other things.
But the next morning there were more damaged bushes, the bugs flew and jumped as if nothing had happened. There was a threat to lose the crop, and possibly the bushes themselves. Whatever I did! Sprayed with various preparations, herbal infusions, sprinkled with ashes - all in vain. It's good that in critical situations the brains start to work better: I remembered how at one of the lectures a wonderful gardener with great experience Vladimir Grigorievich Usik said that on fruit trees you can hang plastic lids or foil from sweets greased with birch tar to scare away harmful insects ...
Fortunately, I found tar and suitable candies, and I quickly hung up the foil, smeared with tar inside.
The next morning, there was not a single insect in the raspberry-tree, the bushes continued to safely gain vegetative mass, and I was overwhelmed with joy that I was able to help them.
There was another case, of a completely different nature. Raspberries sprung up in unison in the spring, the bushes grew well, but one of them began to fade. I examined the above-ground part - I did not find the reason. I had to dig up this bush, and I saw growths on the roots. I dug out bushes to the right and left of the unhealthy one, spilled the soil with an EM-preparation. I sowed mustard in this area, and the next year planted young healthy bushes in that place. They grew well and began to bear fruit well.
This I mean that each case is special, so the problem plant has to be carefully considered and many factors taken into account in order to provide assistance correctly and in a timely manner.
Our raspberry is an example of permacultural design in small areas, i.e. this space in the garden is organized in such a way that it performs several functions at the same time, which are useful both for the environment and for humans:
- a large amount of biomass grows in a small area, some of which, in the form of a weak growth, goes to mulch, and from the rest, fruiting shoots grow;
- during flowering, bees swarm in the air, pollinating flowers and collecting nectar;
- ripe berries are a wonderful product for humans;
- the raspberry tree is located taking into account the wind rose and is a protective strip for more delicate plants;
- TGR is a kind of a workshop for the processing of organic waste: in a trench, the soil biota converts them into nutrients for plants. In such beds, the constant circulation of nutrients is debugged, since the fertility energy contained in organic waste is returned.
With all the wide variety of berry bushes in our garden, raspberries rightfully take their rightful place. She not only gives us tasty and healthy berries - the raspberry bushes themselves are a decoration of the garden, retaining their decorative effect throughout the season.
See also: Rosum's beds - how to make
ROSUM BREAD - VIDEO
© Author: Valentina PASCHENKO. member of the Organic Farming Club. Kiev City
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Raspberries on Sobolev - questions and answers on the method of cultivation
- Raspberry - cultivation, care and planting
- Repairing raspberries - planting and care: my reviews (Moscow)
- Ideal conditions for growing raspberries
- Growing remont raspberries in the Krasnodar Territory - planting and care
- Varieties of raspberry - an overview, description of care and my feedback
- Autumn Raspberry "Rushbushberry" - cultivation and care
- Raspberry varieties Yellow giant, Orange miracle and Apricot - my reviews
- Varieties of remontant raspberries - reviews + description from the agronomist
- Raspberry Cumberland without thorns (photo) - planting and care
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I'll tell you about the raspberry "with legs". I borrowed it from a neighbor, I really liked it: early maturing, abundant fruiting, and the berries on it are relatively large. But I don’t know the name of the variety. I only know that it is garden and not renovated. And one more thing: this raspberry moves from place to place.
In the spring, I planted the dug out lignified shoot in a sunny and not lowland place designated for the future raspberry tree. There, raspberries began to grow on me, giving in the second year many shoots nearby. In the third year, at the beginning of the season, I installed supports for it, going around it all along the perimeter with four crossbeams installed on four stakes driven into the ground, and also let additional crossbars through the middle so that branches in the center of the raspberry tree could be tied to them. Well, the extreme ones, respectively, to the side supports.
Every year after picking berries, a little later, I remove the old branches that have borne fruit, thereby giving freedom to the young. In the fall, when the sprouts become woody, I remove the lowest and thinnest of them, then I carefully examine the remaining ones: are there any sprouts with round or oval thickenings among them. If there are any, I also remove them: in such thickenings, the larvae of the raspberry gall midge huddle. If there are thickenings of processes, I thin them out.
Then I cut off the tops of the remaining branches, leaving bushes with a height of 1, 6-1, 8 m, and so I leave it until spring. Raspberries overwinter perfectly. In the spring, I tie the branches to the supports and carefully add fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) to the soil under the bushes. And during the summer, sometimes I sprinkle ashes under the raspberries.
Gradually, from year to year, raspberries move to another place and go out of the control of the supports, so you have to renew the land in the place where it grew, and re-plant the shoots there or look for a new place suitable for it.
Of course, growing such a "restless" variety in one place is troublesome, since rearrangement of supports, preparation of new sites for planting require additional time, but I do not want to part with it at all. You will look at other varieties - they still have green berries, but the "fidget" has ripe ones, you can pick it.
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The tops dry on raspberries, the leaves turn yellow along with the veins. The berries are dense, underdeveloped, on one side the barrel is whitish. From top dressing she gave potassium, nitrogen, superphosphate, horse manure. Sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, solutions of ferrous sulfate and colloidal sulfur. By the way, strawberry leaves turn yellow as well. In general, these problems began with the plum, and then with the cherry. What about the plants?
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- Yellowing of leaves along with veins is a sign of many plant problems, but without a photo it is difficult to determine which ones. One of the possible options is an imbalance of nutrients, which can cause a large number of supplements with macronutrients without the use of a complex of microelements. However, given the description of the berries on raspberries (underdeveloped, uncharacteristic color), as well as drying young tops of the shoots and yellow leaves, it can be assumed that you have a viral infection on your site (raspberry friable virus). Unfortunately, viral plant diseases are incurable, so the bushes will have to be uprooted. For other cultures, the description is extremely scarce, so it is impossible to even guess the problem.
Natalia KUHARCHIC, Doctor of Science