CULTIVATION OF CALYSTEGIA - LANDING AND CARE
It seems that the perennial herbaceous liana fluffy calistegia is good for everyone: it is unpretentious, frost-hardy, it blooms profusely and for a long time. However, for some reason, the plant is not very popular.
WHY FLOWER GROWERS DON'T LOVE CALYSTEGIA
The reputation of the calistegia was badly tarnished by its closest relative - a new one, or a fence bell. Bindweed with lavender or white flowers is well known to gardeners as a malicious and difficult to exterminate weed. Therefore, many people associate calistegia with a weed. Indeed, she took over an annoying disposition from the bindweed - her roots just strive to crawl around the site in search of a better place. But knowing this feature of the plant, you can try to "negotiate" with it.
Calistegia behaves ESPECIALLY AGGRESSIVELY on rich, moderately moist soils: the roots of the plant quickly scatter over the site, and after a few years the vine can enslave the entire garden, and picking plant roots from the ground is not an easy task.
To avoid the unplanned spread of calistegia, a limiter - plastic tape or slate sheets - is driven into the soil around it to a depth of 25-30 cm. But even when landing in such a "trap" for a grassy vine, you will have to keep an eye on and periodically divide the plant. The fact is that the rhizomes of calistegia go deep into the soil and then it costs them nothing to "dive" under the obstacle, they are also able to easily "jump" over the limiter on the soil surface.
There is often advice to plant calistegia in a bucket buried in the soil without a bottom, which will keep the plant within the given boundaries. However, it must be borne in mind: if the container is metal, then during the autumn snowless frosts, the bucket body will cool more than the ground, and the roots of the creepers, close to the metal, may freeze, which will negatively affect the development and flowering of the plant.
SEEDING MATERIAL OF KALYSTEGIA fluffy is not easy to find in stores, and judging by the reviews, it does not always live up to expectations, often does not sprout, turning out to be of poor quality. Some flower growers even complain that as a result they have grown not a cultivated plant, but an ordinary bindweed. This is perhaps another reason for the unpopularity of calistegy.
It will be much safer and without the risk of getting a pig in a poke to breed calistegia yourself. If you see her in someone's garden, be sure to ask for a root, the rhizome of the vine branches very strongly, so you are unlikely to be refused.
CALYSTEGIA TERRY practically does not have the ability to set viable seeds, the plant reproduces by root suckers. For reproduction, the roots are dug out of the ground in the fall and stored in a cool place. In mid-March, the rhizome is cut into pieces at least 3 cm long, the cuts are burned with a strong solution of potassium permanganate and planted in small pots or cups filled with moist fertile soil. Most likely, the buds will not wake up in all segments, so you can plant 3-4 pieces in one container. For quick germination, keep the roots in a warm place under the film. When the first shoots appear, it is advisable to pinch them so that the root system develops better, and put the pots in a cooler place.
In mid to late May, the calistegia will be ready for planting in open ground. The roots are planted in the soil horizontally to a depth of 5-7 cm. In one place, the vine can develop safely for more than 10 years. In the first year, the plant will gain strength, and the next year it will release many strong shoots and begin to bloom.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW TO DON'T BE DISAPPOINTED
Another name for calistegia is Siberian rose... The fact is that the native land of the plant is North China, and for the first time it appeared in the Far East. And the flowers of the calistegia really resemble roses - double, pearl pink, up to 9 cm in diameter, in the conditions of the middle strip they adorn the liana until the end of September. But in order for the flowering to be abundant, some features of the plant must be taken into account.
With a LACK of LIGHT, not many flowers are formed on the calistegia, their color fades, and in the open sun the “roses” quickly fade. Therefore, when planting, choose the golden mean - an area that is well illuminated by the morning sun and plunges into light shade in the midday hours.
Kalistegia absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging and easily tolerates drought, it may well be content with summer rains, but in especially dry weather, watering is desirable for better flowering. The Siberian rose is responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, which are recommended to be carried out from the beginning of the appearance of flowers every 10 days.
BY WINTER, the entire aerial part of the plant dies off, the lashes need to be cut off, leaving a stump of 10-15 cm, so as not to lose the calistegia, since it awakens only at the end of May. Such a late awakening saves Kalistegia from spring frosts, and flower growers from unnecessary trouble. New shoots are rapidly gaining strength, and during the season the vine can stretch up to 5 m.
Elastic and strong grassy stems tightly twine around the supports, you can use twines stretched over the frame as them. But to create a dense foliage screen, one kalistegia is usually not enough, so it is sometimes planted in a company with other vines.
In JUNE, the first flowers flaunt on the calistegia, the flowering is strong and long, until the very autumn. Faded "roses" do not fall off, so to maintain the neat appearance of the plant, they have to be removed.
The root system of kalistegiya is able to withstand even Siberian frosts, so it does not need shelter, with the exception of young plants in the first year of life, it is advisable to insulate them with dry foliage.
CALISTEGIA - VIDEO
© Author: N. VERSHININA, florist
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