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7 Review (s)

  1. Nina Kalitova, Reutov

    What are the causes of premature ovary drop in fruit trees?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      — After pollination and fertilization, the development of the ovary begins, and at this time its significant abscission is observed. It occurs in three periods: the first - soon after flowering, the second - two weeks later, the third - a month after flowering (June). The reasons for the fall of the ovary can be different: insufficient pollination of flowers, unfavorable weather conditions (cold, rain, wind, when bees are not flying);
      lack of nutrients and moisture in the soil (the garden must be well watered and fertilized);
      presence of diseases and pests. The garden must be protected. Only the flower beetle is capable of destroying more than half of the flowers, and then the codling moth, scab and fruit rot can leave the garden without a harvest. It is important that there are enough pollinating varieties and bees in the garden.

      Reply
  2. R. Vinnik

    I noticed that many varieties of plums have one unpleasant property - the frequency of fruiting. And so that it doesn’t turn out that one year is thick and the other is empty, I suggest everyone to adopt a simple technique that I have repeatedly tested: thinning the fruits.

    Let's say that this year there are especially many plum ovaries, then thin out the fruits before they begin to pour. This will not only help you get a rich harvest this season, but also save nutrients for the next harvest. Under the weight of the fruit, fruit branches can also break off, and this is very harmful to the tree itself.
    I thin out twice: in early June, as soon as the ovaries have formed, and in mid-July, when the plums begin to pour. First of all, I remove damaged and diseased fruits. I remove the rest, leaving about 7 cm between the fruits (so that they do not touch each other, ripening “alone”).

    It happens that, despite thinning, the load on the tree still remains large. In this case, be sure to strengthen the branches with props. Moreover, the place where the support is in contact with the branch, I lay with soft material. This simple trick prevents the branch from rubbing against the support, which can damage the bark and cause infection of the plum with various diseases.

    Reply
  3. Ivan DOBRONRAVOV, Oryol region

    Our cherries bloomed profusely every year, but there were few fruits. Then I found out that in order to increase the yield, it was necessary to shorten all the branches by a third immediately after planting in order to direct the growth of the crown not in height, but in width.
    Proper pruning can increase the number, size and sweetness of fruits. Now in March, until the buds have blossomed, I thin out the crowns of cherries, but not more than a quarter of the total number of branches, making cuts at their very base (there should be no stumps). Of the young shoots, I leave only the strongest and most upright. I remove the branches descending to the ground.
    And the cherry is also prone to the abundant formation of basal shoots, on which the tree spends excess nutrition. Therefore, I cut it out at the very soil.

    Reply
  4. Love

    I will share my experience of "apricot cultivation". So what does an apricot need to bloom? First of all, warmth. I always wrap my handsome man at the end of the season with non-woven material, which I am in no hurry to take off in spring: I do this only after the threat of return frosts has completely disappeared. In addition, the tree needs good watering at the beginning of the season. In general, I put three large basins of water next to him so as not to run around with buckets.

    And most importantly: I pour two liters of ash around the perimeter of the crown, no more. And after that I water it right on it.

    And while the tree is blooming (and this is about seven days), I add ash once more. I just learned that the tree needs potassium to form fruit, and it is also needed for the formation of seeds. And if the apricot lacks potassium, then the seeds are not formed. And since there are no “rudiments” of them, then the set fruits can fall off without developing.
    In the fourth year, I was lucky - the apricot bloomed in full force and then gave a good harvest. The fruits ripened at the end of July - just in time for my birthday.

    And they were juicy, sweet and large. Variety - Best Michurin. He is really incomparable, but he also has a drawback - the bark is very much affected by sunburn, although the trunk is constantly white. This year I have already planted the seeds of this variety, I hope that they will sprout.

    Now I will touch upon one more frequently asked question: is it worth bothering with the reproduction of your favorite garden crops with seeds? The answer is unequivocal: it's worth it! In this way, I have grown Isabella grapes, white acacia and three apple trees (I transplanted them at a young age, and now these three-year-olds look healthy and vigorous). She also spread strawberries with seeds, the sowing material of which she borrowed from an abandoned area: in the third year, she waited for large and tasty berries.

    Reply
  5. Tatyana Karpova, Moscow

    In spring, the plum blossomed well, there were many ovaries. But then the fruits cracked, a clear liquid began to ooze from them (pictured). What happened?

    What to do if an ovary falls on an apple, pear, apricot, plum, cherry and sweet cherry

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - In the photo there are signs of a serious and one of the most harmful viral diseases - this is a plum ball. It affects the entire crown of a tree (transferred through planting and grafting material, overgrowth, mechanically and aphids). In spring, vague light green spots in the form of wide stripes and rings are visible on young leaves of plum and cherry-plum. On larger leaves, the color of the spots is yellowish-green, rather bright. The fruits have chlorotic yellow rings or arcs, are often deformed, the pulp is impregnated with gum. Plums become completely tasteless, fall off prematurely, several weeks before ripening, especially late varieties. Crops from infected trees are in most cases unsuitable for processing. Alas, sharka is not treated. You need to uproot and burn the diseased tree outside the garden.

      Reply

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