Perennials (photo) for a garden and a summer residence - name and description, division of perennials
Contents ✓
- ✓ MANY YEARS
- ✓ RECIPE FOR LONGEVITY AND YOUTH FOR PERENNIALS
- ✓ A LITTLE APPROACH TO PERENNIAL COLORS
- ✓ WE ARE ARMED WITH A FORK AND A SHOVEL
- ✓ SEE THE ROOT
- ✓ MOVING IS NECESSARY
- ✓ PERMANENT FLOWERS IN THE GARDEN IN THE COTTAGE AND FLOWER BOARD - TIPS AND SECRETS OF FLOWERS
- ✓ PERENNIALS IN THE GARDEN - VIDEO
PERENNIALS WHICH JUSTIFY THEIR NAME
© Author: Nina Vershinina
For a beginner grower, the sea is knee-deep. He is ready to rush around the garden all day and night, now with scissors, now with a watering can, now with a sprayer for the sake of the long-awaited, albeit fleeting, flowering. And let, when the flowers fade, the plant itself will also not be in the best shape - withered and inconspicuous. Ahead is a new season, new plans and accomplishments ... Clarity comes with experience. And after them the understanding that without perennials, albeit not distinguished by lush flowering, but non-capricious, reliable and attractive throughout the season, a good flower garden is impossible.
Reference by topic: Perennials: cold-resistant and not, interesting colors and colors - varieties
MANY YEARS
In the world of perennials, there are many plants that, due to their stable decorativeness and low requirements, are able to form a reliable stronghold of the garden. They are resistant to pests and diseases, do not need careful regular care and are distinguished by modest "behavior" - they do not scatter around the site, occupying areas not intended for them. And most importantly, these plants are durable.
The life span of a gentian can be more than 50 years. Most plant species are suitable only for experienced florists, but there are some that are easy to care for and almost hassle-free.
The spring gentian is easy to grow, growing in 4-7 cm high clumps. One stem can have up to three terminal flowers. They bloom in the spring - a deep blue color, which is considered the standard of the so-called gene-cyan color, wheel-shaped, 2-3 cm in diameter, with a narrow tube.
STEELless BURNER
Almost simultaneously with the spring, the stemless gentian blooms.
She has large five-membered tubular flowers up to 6 cm long, usually from blue to intense blue.
Also very unpretentious are the Tibetan gentian with grayish-white flowers, which grows up to half a meter, and the lung gentian, which is widespread in gardens, naturally growing throughout Europe, in Siberia and found in the Moscow region. Plant height 30-50 cm, large (up to 5 cm in diameter) flowers are located 2-3 at the ends of the stems and singly in the axils.
The optimal conditions for gentian are partial shade and high air humidity, but at the same time the plants cannot tolerate root entanglement. All of these species thrive on cultivated soils with good drainage and sufficient moisture.
The roots of some gentian species contain bitter substances, hence the name of the plant. The thick roots of large species are used to make appetite-enhancing tinctures. For example, schnapps, popular in Germany, is made with the addition of yellow gentian.
Derbenniki are great for group plantings with other moisture-loving plants - hosts, darmers, buzulniks.
Vegetative propagation is well suited for spring gentian, even cuttings accidentally torn off during weeding and dug in can easily take root.
The stemless gentian is cut worse, it is better to propagate it by division, and the pulmonary gentian, which has a taproot, is rather risky to divide. The easiest way to propagate a plant is by sowing seeds in winter, as they require cold stratification.
Willow loosestrife is a frequent inhabitant of swamps and flooded meadows. The name of the plant comes from the old Russian word - derba, meaning a swampy meadow. And another name - plakun-grass - is associated with an interesting feature of the loosestrife to remove excess moisture through the leaves.
Reference by topic: Fragrant fragrant plants (perennials and annuals) - names and descriptions
Willow loosestrife is a bush with straight stems up to 1 m high, lignified in the lower part. The leaves are lanceolate, elongated, similar to willow, in autumn they often turn red or orange, prolonging the decorative effect of the plant after flowering.
Pulmonary gentian. Gentian Tibetan. Loosestrife Robert. Loosestrife Zigeunnerblut
In June-July, small (up to 1 cm in diameter) crimson-red star-shaped flowers, collected in extended paniculate inflorescences, open in the upper part of the stems and lateral shoots. The bright bloom lasts about two months.
This type of plant has several varieties. One of the most spectacular is Zigeunerblut, which has purple-red flowers. Pink inflorescences in Robert, which reaches a meter in height, and the more compact Roseum.
Derbenniki grow well in the sun, bloom well and develop in partial shade, are unpretentious, put up with drying out of the soil, but moist fertile land is more favorable for them. Plants retain their neat appearance after abundant flowering, easily rise after heavy rains and winds.
The loosestrife can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. Another option is to bring plakun grass from the shore of the reservoir: a powerful but shallow root system makes it easy to extract the plant from the soil.
In the spring, the steep begins to grow relatively late, from about mid-May, and shows itself in full glory towards the end of summer, when large corymbose inflorescences appear on powerful bushes about 2 m high.
A delightful decoration of the autumn garden is the purple steeple, a perennial short-rhizome plant with pointed oval-lanceolate leaves located in whorls of 3-5. Dark pink flowers are collected in small inflorescences-baskets, forming complex scutes, reaching 20 cm in diameter. Flowering lasts up to 1, 5 months.
Interesting varieties of stethosis spotted: tall (up to 2 m) Album with white flowers, Atropurpureum with wine-red flowers and dark red stems, relatively low (5, 1-3, 1 m) Gateway with lush purple-pink inflorescences.
Bone sills feel good in the shade, prefer loose nutritious soils, live in one place for at least 10 years.
Volzhanka's lifespan is at least 70 years. Thanks to the delicate feathery leaves and lush large (up to 60 cm in length) paniculate inflorescences, consisting of many small flowers, the plant is decorative throughout the season.
See also: Ground cover plants (perennials and annuals) - photos and names, planting and care
An overgrown bush of the steep looks much more spectacular than a young one, so it is better not to divide the plant too often.
Volzhanka dioecious is good in single plantings, and Asiatic Volzhanka looks better in clumps of 3-5 plants.
Volzhanka dioecious grows slowly and forms a dense tall bush. The specific name suggests that the plants are male and female. They differ in color of flowers and density of inflorescences: in women, white flowers are collected in loose inflorescences, and in men, flowers with a cream shade and inflorescences are denser.
Birchwood Album. Purple Birch Birch Birch Birchwood. Atropurpure Birch Bone.
Volzhanka dioecious blooms in mid-June and lasts at least 3 weeks. An adult plant can reach a height of 2 m, but there is a compact variety Kneiffii, not exceeding 60 cm, with deeply dissected feathery foliage.
Volzhanka Asiatica has a long rhizome, due to which it forms a dense thicket up to 1 m high. The leaves of this species are less dissected than those of Volzhanka dioecious, and flowering occurs about a couple of weeks earlier, in late May - early June.
Volzhanki are not picky about soils, do not require special care, they do not tolerate only extremes - excessive dryness and strong waterlogging.
Spring adonis, which is also called an adonis or an old duck, according to some sources, can live up to 150 years! The long-liver lives in the European part of Russia and throughout Siberia, it can be found in the forbs of meadow steppes and forest-steppes, on dry slopes and in thickets of bushes, more often in the chernozem zone.
Plant height 20-30 cm, the leaves resemble dill and retain their green color throughout the summer. Adonis blooms in early May and blooms for about three weeks, delighting with golden yellow single large flowers with many stamens.
Spring adonis. Adonis Plena. The hellebore is black.
This is not to say that the adonis is a completely simple plant. He does not like transplants and does not tolerate division. The easiest way is to buy a grown seedling and settle it in a permanent place - open and sunny. The seeds of adonis, like all representatives of the buttercup family, with an underdeveloped embryo, ripen unevenly and have poor germination. It is recommended to collect them slightly unripe and sow in the same year before winter in light fertile soil. For adonis, stagnation of water is destructive, and the introduction of lime is favorable for it (the plant prefers alkaline soils).
Such forms of spring adonis as Albiflora with white flowers and Plena with double flowers are good for the garden.
Adonis, grown from seeds, blooms in the 4-6th year.
Many believe that the hellebore blooms for three months. However, this is not true, the illusion of such a long flowering is created by the long-holding sepals, which are mistaken for petals.
A real find for a shady garden is a hellebore emerging from under the snow with green overwintered leaves and immediately blooming. The flowers hold their shape for a very long time, and even after the leaflets open, the calyx does not wrinkle for a long time. The plant always looks neat, does not require frequent transplants and divisions, and can live up to 70 years.
One of the most winter-hardy black hellebores begins to bloom in April with large (up to 8 cm in diameter) white flowers holding on peduncles up to 30 cm high.The leaves are leathery, dark green, dissected almost to the base, hibernate under the snow and serve as an excellent background for flowers ... Later, the foliage dies off, but a new one quickly grows to replace it.
The eastern hellebore, in contrast to the black, has purple flowers. This species is found in the forests of the Black Sea coast, in the Caucasus and amazes with a variety of forms with burgundy, yellow, greenish flowers.
Eastern hellebore. Tibetan hellebore.
The Tibetan hellebore is geographically isolated from its congeners and grows in a limited area in Central China. When planting, it is important to take into account that by the end of summer the foliage of the plant dies off, so it is better to place it in a company with short-rhizome ferns that will cover the bare place.
In the Tibetan hellebore, there are forms with almost white and deep pink flowers, in some, bright veins are visible against the light background of the petals. The color of the foliage ranges from dark green to silvery green.
Heavy clay soils, rich in humus, are most suitable for freezers. Prolonged drought and stagnation of water are undesirable for the plant. The best place to plant is in the shade, under the canopy of trees, where the hellebore forms a large clump over time.
RECIPE FOR LONGEVITY AND YOUTH FOR PERENNIALS
With age, perennial plants lose their decorative effect, flowering becomes scarce, shoots do not gain the required height, the central part of the bush gradually dies off.
To restore beauty and rejuvenate plantings, perennials are divided and transplanted.
A LITTLE APPROACH TO PERENNIAL COLORS
Each culture, variety, species has its own term. If you miss it and do not rejuvenate the plant in time, then it will die, and sometimes quite quickly.
In some species of perennials, the need for division arises very often - once every 2-3 years. Biology even uses the term "juveniles" for them. These plants include cornflower, primroses, helenium, garden veronica, most rudbecky.
Less often, about once every 4-7 years, the magnificent dicenter, geranium, phlox, cuff, swimsuit, daylily are rejuvenated.
There are also plants that can not be disturbed for decades, they are able to do without dividing for a long time, without losing their decorative effect. These include hosts, gentians, adonis, gypsophila, hellebores, Siberian irises, species peonies, horseback.
It is possible to dig up and divide the eremurus only after the dying off of the aerial part of the plant.
Core-root perennials do not like transplants, they wear divisions
When dividing, the foliage of irises is shortened to a height of 8-10 cm from the rhizome
The lifespan of perennials is also influenced by such factors as climate, watering, feeding, as well as longevity is associated with growing conditions - the better they are, the faster the plants grow and age. Therefore, the timing of rejuvenating division in plants of the same variety or species can vary significantly. It is possible to determine that aging has begun by the following signs: all parts become smaller, and first of all - flowers; flowering is not as abundant as before; the plant looks depressed.
As for the most optimal dividing and transplanting season, it is customary to be guided by the general rule of perennials that bloom in autumn are divided and transplanted in spring, before active growth begins, and blooming in spring - in autumn (in the second half of August - early September), so that they have time before winter take root safely.
However, there are exceptions to this rule. For example, bearded irises are best divided 15-20 days after flowering, and eremurus are not recommended to be touched when they grow, the rhizome can be divided only during dormancy.
How to distinguish between roots and rhizomes of a plant? On the rhizomes there are always buds located in a spiral or opposite each other, there are scales or traces of them are visible. The root is also capable of forming buds, but they are located chaotically on it, scales and their traces are absent.
WE ARE ARMED WITH A FORK AND A SHOVEL
Plants with compact or shallow root systems are easier to dig with a pitchfork. A shovel is best used when the root system is deep in the ground or the roots are fleshy and fragile. When digging up, some of the roots will most likely be chopped off, but this is not scary, since those that are too long will still have to be shortened.
Too long roots (but not rhizomes) must be shortened in bearded irises, phlox, peonies. The dead parts are cut to healthy viable tissue and cut with crushed charcoal. When dividing in autumn, the shoots of the plant are also shortened.
When dividing the roots, it is advisable not to use a shovel. Even if it is sharply sharpened, the cut is not always of good quality, and the plants suffer and take root poorly. If the bushes are old, the shoots and roots are quite strong, then it is best to try to pull the dug plant apart with a pitchfork, making wedging movements.
Short horizontal rhizomes usually have numerous renewal buds
You can even divide a multi-stemmed mouth with fibrous roots with your hands
If necessary, phlox can be divided in the summer, the main condition is the age of the bush at least 4 years
A shovel is required if it is necessary to divide the bush without digging it out of the ground. A part is cut off from the mother plant directly in the soil, the cut is pulled out, and fresh nutrient soil is poured into the formed hole.
SEE THE ROOT
How well and quickly a plant will take root after division and transplantation depends primarily on the structure of its root system.
Perennials with a taproot system (gypsophila, lupine, oriental poppy) tolerate transplantation very poorly, but they cannot be divided at all.
If the bush is multi-stemmed, and the root system is fibrous, then it is easy to divide the bush even with your hands, each part is a cut. Daylilies, hosts, ornamental cereals simply divide and take root well. Transplanting these plants is also easy - their root system is compact and shallow.
Plants with short horizontal rhizomes, such as brunner, pinnate carnation, monarda, fragrant and horned violets, form a loose, but separate sod, expanding in width. Transplantation and division are easily tolerated.
Long-rooted kupen, wormwood, loosestrife painlessly transfer relocation to a new place, it is very easy to separate the cuttings from the mother plant.
Owners of thick deep rhizomes (gentian, elecampane, peony lacto-flowered) do not like transplanting and get sick for a long time if the roots are damaged. But these plants do not require frequent rejuvenating division, they can grow in one place for decades.
MOVING IS NECESSARY
Many flower crops can be returned to their original place not earlier than after 4-5 years. First of all, this is due to the accumulation of pests and pathogens in the soil, which damage only this genus of plants. Lack of "food" for a long time will significantly reduce their numbers.
In addition, different plants consume nutrients in rosy amounts. For example, some species take a lot of phosphorus from the soil, while others take more calcium. It is difficult to determine exactly how much it is necessary to increase the introduction of certain nutrients. Most often, gardeners use a standard set of fertilizers, and a plant planted in an old place will experience a lack of certain nutrients, which will negatively affect its growth and flowering.
And finally, some plants (for example, peony and sweet peas) simply cannot grow safely in the same place due to the fact that their roots release growth inhibitors into the ground. These substances will significantly inhibit development if the necessary break in time is not observed.
PERMANENT FLOWERS IN THE GARDEN IN THE COTTAGE AND FLOWER BOARD - TIPS AND SECRETS OF FLOWERS
PERENNIUMS ON THE EVE OF WINTER - CARE
About 5 years ago in October, I actively put things in order on the site: I cut off wilted perennials, cereals, mulched the roots with humus. Already in the middle of the month, the garden looked clean and somehow empty, uncomfortable.
I corrected the situation by being inspired by the new wave of Naturgarden style. I started listening to the advice of its founder, landscape designer Piet Oudolf.
As if with different eyes she looked at the flower beds and decided to cancel the "total" cleaning in the garden. I realized that I was depriving myself of modest, graceful beauty in the dull time of the second half of autumn.
Of course, faded annuals, plants with soft stems, frost-nailed foliage and flowers are removed. But I leave specimens with strong stems and pretty inflorescences in the form of panicles, buttons, and cones until the end of November. For example, favorite cereals are sharp-flowered reed grass, blue and reed lightning, Flamingo miscanthus, shaggy featherweed, and twig millet.
CARE RULES
In October, I mulch all plants with dry humus.
Since the second half of November, when the temperature is below zero and the ground is covered with snow, I still cut off some crops. I leave the aerial part of perennial asters and chrysanthemums until spring. This is useful for snow retention.
At the end of the season, I cut several multiflora bushes, plant them in pots and send them to the cellar for the winter, and in March I cut cuttings from them.
Instances remaining in the ground, spud and mulch.
In warm winters, they are perfectly preserved, but, unfortunately, they do not give such an ideal bush shape in the new season as grown from cuttings.
At the end of November, I tie the cereals into sheaves. This helps them in frosts and thaws - the water flows down without falling into the center of the bush. I prune grass in early spring.
I leave all fallen leaves under trees and in flower beds. Rotting, they make the soil more loose and fertile.
© Author: Lyudmila GAVRILOVA, Kuvandyk, Orenburg region. Author's photo
COMMENTS OF THE SPECIALIST
In the middle lane, many crops are pruned at the end of October-November with a noticeable slowdown in sap flow. The ideal option is 2-3 weeks before stable frosts. Cutting too early provokes the growth of young shoots that do not have time to mature before the onset of winter. But it is also impossible to be late with pruning, because frozen branches become brittle and easily damaged. Most plants (hosta, daylily, iris, chrysanthemum, phlox,
stonecrop, aster, heliopsis) with the advent of cold weather, you can not cut it. Their above-ground part helps to retain snow, which makes wintering warmer, and in spring provides the necessary moisture. By spring, plant residues completely decompose and serve as natural food. If in autumn perennials are cut at ground level, then they must be covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches or mulched with humus.
Leaf litter is a wonderful natural product that contains all the necessary nutrients for plants. Therefore, it (provided that it is healthy) should be left where possible. For the same purpose, crumbling old needles and trimmings after shearing are used. The remains are buried shallowly in the soil in the trunk circle.
© Author: Tatyana CHEREPKO, landscape designer..
See also: Flowers perennials blooming all summer - photo + name + description
PERENNIALS IN THE GARDEN - VIDEO
© Author: Nina Vershinina
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Daylily planting and care (from the Encyclopedia of Flowers)
- Millennium, cloves, agastache, algae and statice from seeds
- Panicle Phlox Care Calendar - 2 (Spring)
- Irises - Species
- Muraya (photos) growing, planting and care
- Blossoming hosts (photo) fragrant and beautiful
- The division of perennials - when and how
- Narcissus - cultivation, care, planting, varieties, bulb storage
- Sow rare flower seeds (late winter - early spring)
- Argirantemum (photo) cultivation, planting and care
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Do I need to cover terry varieties of gypsophila paniculata for the winter? What is the best way to propagate these plants so that they retain their maternal qualities?
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- Gypsophila paniculata (Gypsophila paniculata) is one of the largest representatives of its genus. Its openwork spherical bushes can reach a height of 1 m. Flowers, depending on the variety, are white or pink, up to 2 mm in diameter. I grow mainly white cultivars. In the summer, I must dry some of the branches for winter bouquets. In the fall, I cut the bushes almost to the root (the stems can be used to shelter other plants for the winter). Then I insulate the root zone with humus or compost, cover it on top with cut dry shoots of marigolds or spruce legs. In winter, I pour snow on these places.
Highly decorative terry varieties of Gypsophila paniculata are propagated by cuttings in order to preserve the qualities of the mother plant, which are lost during the seed method. Cuttings are cut 3-4 cm long from the tops of young shoots before flowering, in May-June, and rooted in a loose substrate, deepening by 2 cm. Maintain soil and air moisture. After rooting, they are planted in a permanent place, retreating from neighboring plants about 80-100 cm.
Gypsophila loves light, does not tolerate even partial shade. The soil prefers moisture - and breathable with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Watering is necessary for her only during the dry season. Does not tolerate fresh organic fertilizers.
I feed my beauties 2 times a year: at the beginning of the season - with a complex spring fertilizer, in the summer - with a complex autumn fertilizer (according to the instructions). It is also good to dust the root zone with ash (2-3 handfuls). I did not observe pests and diseases on gypsophila.
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Dahlias, daylilies, clematis, yarrows and other perennials in the middle of summer need enhanced feeding. On my site I often use organic matter. Horse manure works well - I scatter a thin layer of mulch around the plants. It is better to prepare a daily infusion from a mullein (1 kg / bucket of water). Under each bush, it is enough to pour 0,5-1 l (depending on size), moreover, on wet soil.
In July, the lower leaves often begin to dry out. This means that the plants lack calcium and potassium. Infusion will help: 1 tbsp. pour boiling water over the ash overnight, dilute in 5 liters of water in the morning. This volume is enough for one bush. Remember: flowers need regular watering in the heat!