Growing cabbage: seedling box, slug control and saline solution (Bryansk)
Contents ✓
- ✓ CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACTION ONE
- ✓ CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACT TWO
- ✓ CABBAGE CARE IN OPEN GROUND - VIDEO
- ✓ CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACTION THREE
- ✓ TIP: HANDBOOK FOR CABBAGE IN THE GREENHOUSE WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
- ✓ TIP: HOW TO COLLECT YOUR CABBAGE SEEDS
- ✓ PESTS OF CABBAGE - VIDEO
CABBAGE - LANDING AND CARE. GROWING AND STORAGE
Each gardener has his own ideas about what is most important when growing a particular vegetable crop. But the author of the letter believes that there are no secondary agricultural practices. And the example of cabbage convincingly proves this.
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACTION ONE
My friends, as they say, whoever hurts, he talks about it. And so I will immediately get down to business - to the story about cabbage and the problems associated with its cultivation. I plant it relatively early - when the air temperature is set at 8-10 ° C. Of course, while doing this I always take into account the lunar calendar, although my mother always said: "God has equal days." For planting, I preliminarily make a box with a side height of 25 cm and dimensions of about 80 × 120 cm.I install it in the brightest place in the garden and so that the approach to the box is not to the detriment of other future beds.
I dig up the earth, spill it with hot water, to which I add a little potassium permanganate, and after that I sow dry seeds - in rows according to varieties.
I cover the box with glass, then with black non-woven material and film. After five days, I take off everything for a while for airing and put it back in place. In such a box and under such a shelter, cabbage grows well, grows and even hardens. When the greens appear, I spray it with water with the addition of iodine: 1-2 drops per 1 liter.
I water the cabbage regularly, and every other time I add (in small doses!) Potassium permanganate, vitriol or even brilliant green to the water. When it gets really warmer outside, I leave only glass on the box from the shelter. By the way, I tried to sow cabbage in a greenhouse. Although the seedlings there seemed to grow good, but the survival rate when transplanted to the beds was always much lower than that of the one that came from the box. So it turns out that even though the latter is not so tall, but stronger and healthier.
I plant the cabbage in a permanent place when 4-5 leaves appear on the plants. This procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening. I make holes in the beds in a checkerboard pattern, at least 60 cm from each other. I pour a pinch of ash and 5-6 granules of nitrogen fertilizer into them, mix and spill everything. I plant seedlings and sprinkle them with earth, pressing them and saying: "Grow a tadpole, do not grow an ankle."
Around each plant I stick three branches with leaves (from any trees and shrubs, since the forest is close) for shading. And for the next three days I water it with water. Well, then I already look at the circumstances, when to water and feed. Over time, when the seedlings are well established, I remove the branches. As the cabbage develops, I try to treat it with mineral and organic fertilizers. The interval between such dressings is a week. And one more thing: sometimes I pour mineral water on the garden bed right before the rain. When the cabbage grows well, I spud it.
See also: 2 cauliflower harvest per year! My way
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACT TWO
Now about pest control. My main enemies are slugs. The first remedy for them is ash. Therefore, from time to time I powder the cabbage with this good, and at the same time all other vegetables, which are not harmful to ash. I do it this way: I put it in a bag made of gauze folded in two or three layers, tie it and shake it over the plants.
In addition, I also dust the plantings with tobacco "powder". I also use wormwood, which is abundant in the area: every two or three days I cut it, cut it finely and scatter it fresh among the cabbage, as well as along the furrows. True, this rather helps not from slugs, but from butterflies and caterpillars.
But I emphasize: wormwood should be used regularly, since its one-time use does not give results.
Back to the slugs. In fact, to cope with them, you need to use all possible methods, because they do not walk alone, as they say: if one appears, wait for the invasion of the others. Therefore, I also use the well-known primitive traps - I lay out trimming boards in the garden. And under them in the ground I dig small grooves into which I pour a little beer. You can, however, do without it - the main thing is, if only the ground under the boards was wet.
Now on the use of eggshells in the garden. I believe that the positive effect of its use is greatly exaggerated. After all, what does the process usually look like? That's right: it is poured around the perimeter of the landings. Slugs will not crawl across this border from the outside, but inside they must also be there. And who then prevents them from continuing to do their dirty deed? That's the trouble. There is only one way out: sprinkle with crushed shells not only the beds, but also each plant. But where to get so much of this stuff? In "Dacha" there was a letter, the author of which wrote that a friend brought him the shell from the confectionery production. In this case, of course, you can not save it, sprinkle it as much as you like. And the result will be good. The same story, by the way, with river sand and pine needles. And even with marigolds. I also plant them around the perimeter of the beds, but practically I have them only for beauty.
What, then, do I propose as an effective means of struggle?
Yes, here's at least a saline solution: 200 g per 8 liters of water. It's a good thing, but, really, I use it only once a season, because I'm afraid to harm the earth. A safer infusion of bitter pepper in this sense, since this culture grows without much care and in large quantities (right in the beds, and not in the greenhouse).
I just brew two good handfuls of fruits, leave for four hours, and then dilute them in six to eight liters of water. At the same time, I do not grind the fruits beforehand! And then you will have to wear a gas mask against the pungent smell. Once I treated cabbage with ammonia and vinegar. The result was good, although it burned the upper leaves.
Conclusion: it is necessary to adhere to the exact ratio of water and the substance used.
A solution with ammonia - 30 ml per 8 liters; with 70% vinegar - 50 ml for the same volume. You can also use the infusion of mustard. Also a killer thing for slugs. I prepare this product like this: I dilute 50 g in 1 liter of warm water, leave it for 4-6 hours, and then dilute it with 8 liters of cold water and add the previously dissolved soap (one third of a standard piece). I use tar, but you can just take a liquid one.
Why, by the way, when preparing solutions and infusions, I always focus on 8 liters, and not 10, as usually all gardeners do? Yes, I just have such a watering can, that's why I got used to doing all the calculations, looking back at it. Recently I read in a book about cornmeal: it seems to be deadly for slugs. I don’t know, I haven’t tried it yet. But it's probably worth a try. And it would also be nice to have a hedgehog in the garden: let him run around and feast on slugs. Although, of course, there may be side effects from such a "remedy". We must at least think it over carefully. I suppose there are still good ways to deal with slugs (this is not about chemistry), but I do not know about them yet.
By the way, I noticed that I did not notice these pests on the Savoy cabbage. Although now it seems to me that the June cabbage is all about: it grew nearby, and its leaves are much softer and tastier. Here slugs and "exchanged" for it the Savoyard.
CABBAGE CARE IN OPEN GROUND - VIDEO
We also recommend reading: The hilling of potatoes, cabbage and other vegetables - whether and how to properly
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF CABBAGE - ACTION THREE
When growing cabbage, one more point is important - preserving the harvest. I try to process almost everything I have collected at once. I ferment most of the heads. I cut them into 4-6 parts, put them in an enamel bucket and five-liter jars, on the bottom of which I put small crust of bread (if you eat them with cabbage, your teeth will not hurt). I compact everything with coarsely chopped beets, sprinkle it with dill seeds, add pieces of horseradish, fill it with brine and cover with cabbage leaves. I cover the whole container with inverted plates - and under oppression.
I also make preparations with mushrooms and beans. Even just sometimes I cook a cabbage five-minute - in winter it goes with a bang in cabbage soup. Summing up, I would like to say: it would be good if the costs were as low as possible, labor efforts are not a burden, and the fruits of our labor bring maximum benefit and pleasure. We are working on that.
As for the varieties and species, it seems that I have already tried everything that is possible - ordinary, kohlrabi, Brussels, Beijing, colored, broccoli (white and red) - and I liked everything. Therefore, it is necessary, relatively speaking, to draw up a sequence. Last year, for example, I planted early June, white-headed Kolobok F1 and Savoy Nadia. And this year - June (she showed the best result) and feces.
© Author: Tatyana YASHUTINA Bryansk region
TIP: HANDBOOK FOR CABBAGE IN THE GREENHOUSE WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
My husband built a greenhouse for me according to my own project: a frame made of metal pipes was installed on a capital foundation, a gable roof made of polycarbonate, and the walls were covered with covering material. Such a greenhouse keeps heat well (if necessary, I put solar "accumulators" around the perimeter, ie bottles made of dark plastic with water), and in summer, in the heat, it "breathes" and is easily blown through.
But the main thing is that it still contains the body of an old refrigerator, which acts as a breeding ground for cabbage. I fill it in the fall with different organic matter and tops, and on top I cover it all with a layer of fertile soil. Cabbage there feels like in a sanatorium and develops well. At the initial stage of its growth, until the threat of frost passes, I additionally cover the nursery with glass. The plants have grown - I change the glass to the covering material. And it turns out that my cabbage is under double protection. When strong seedlings move to the beds, I sow cucumbers in its place in the nursery for later fruiting, and on the beds in the greenhouse - seedlings of cucumbers grown at home.
© Author: Tamara. Krasnoyarsk
TIP: HOW TO COLLECT YOUR CABBAGE SEEDS
At one time, I really liked the article by Olga Ivanovna Shkir "Seeds from a Home Factory" with a story about how to get cabbage seed. Now I re-read it and remembered my mother, whom all my acquaintances called "seed-seed", since she never went to the store for seeds - she always had her own. And she taught me this art.
I will tell you how I get the material for sowing cabbage. In autumn I choose the largest and most beautiful heads of cabbage. I cut them down. I pull out the roots remaining in the garden. I take a plywood box, put it on the inside with cardboard, put a small layer of sawdust on the bottom and put cabbage roots there. I cover them with a newspaper, spread old rags in several layers on top and close the drawer with a wooden lid. I lower it into a dug hole about 60 cm deep, cover it with an old rug, cover it with earth, trample it down and spread the film on top.
In the first ten days of May, I dig out a box, take out the cabbage roots, on which by this time small forks are formed in the axils - from which flower stalks will subsequently go. I put humus, ash and a pinch of superphosphate in the planting holes, mix everything thoroughly, water it and plant it right into this mud. I cover the top of the wells with cut off five-liter bottles without corks. Such seed does not lose germination for three to four years.
© Author: Lyudmila AKULOVA
PESTS OF CABBAGE - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Cauliflower cultivar Violet (photo) - reviews, planting and care
- Cauliflower through seedlings: planting and care - my advice (Belgorod region)
- Savoy cabbage (photo) planting growing and grooming
- A brief guide to the cultivation of savoy cabbage - how to grow it?
- Growing Beijing Cabbage Planting and Care - Simple Effective Tips
- White cabbage - early, medium and late varieties (description)
- What is the difference between caring for different types of cabbage?
- Growing broccoli in the Volgograd region - planting and care, my advice
- Late White Cabbage - Planting and Care
- Growing early cabbage under bottles - planting and care (CRIMEA)
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This year the cabbage grew poorly, the heads of cabbage remained small, and in some places they were covered with red spots. The cabbage tastes tough. Why did it happen?
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- According to the description, it looks like the cabbage got sick with phomosis. It is a fungal infection that hibernates in the soil. Therefore, it is extremely important to observe the crop rotation and not to grow cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radish, turnip, radish, daikon) every year in the same place. Also, the disease can be transmitted with seeds, so buy them from trusted suppliers and disinfect them. In addition, phomosis can be easily spread by wind, insects and humans and transferred from diseased plants to healthy ones.
If the disease affects your cabbage, then it should not be grown on the site (as well as representatives of this family) for 5 years.