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5 SECRETS OF GROWING RASPBERRY

Everyone loves raspberries, but few take care of them properly. Let's listen to our regular author, who has accumulated rich experience over many years in working with this glorious, but not the simplest culture.

I have grown many varieties: Polka, Zlato Yessenna, Yaroslavna, Brusvyana, Golden Domes, Patricia, Tarusa, Krepysh, Cumberland, etc. But some of them disappeared, many of them had to be abandoned. Nowadays, berry growers have a hard time tolerating climate change, the urban environment, and poor agricultural technology. Yes, and my age is already solid (I am finishing my eighth decade), I have less strength, and more and more diseases, so I reduce the planting of raspberries and select varieties that are more resistant to the blows of the elements.

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And now five of the most important time-tested rules.

1. PREVENTION OF DISEASES IN RASPBERRY

Early in the spring, I check the plantings of summer raspberries, since the remontant was cut out even before the frost. As soon as the buds begin to change color, but have not yet begun to swell and bloom, it is at this short moment that the bushes should be treated with hot (80 °) water - this is the oldest and most reliable way to combat gall midge (shoot and stem), aphids, scale insects and spores fungal diseases.

You can treat it with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), infusions of tansy, tobacco, pepper, wormwood, or apply biological products against pests, powdery mildew, anthracnose, purple spot.

I process the whole garden, including raspberries, with biofungicide. I do not use copper sulfate either in spring or autumn.

2. CUTTING RASPBERRY

Cutting branches of summer raspberries, which have already fully borne fruit, I spend after the last collection of berries at soil level, I burn the shoots along with sores and pests. I leave no more than six replacement shoots in the bushes.

This operation can also be performed in early spring. The buds have not yet blossomed, we remove the broken, frozen, weakened branches and thin out where thickening is observed. When the buds open, we remove the tops to the first living bud - this leads to the production of lateral additional shoots, thereby increasing the yield.

The longer the shoot, the more berries it will give. If you do not cut off the tops, we will get a lot of small berries on them.

If we cut it below 1 m, the yield will decrease, although the berries will be larger. I shorten the tops by 5-20 cm, and if they have suffered from frost, then to the second living bud (for greater assurance). On these loosely cut shoots, the harvest will be the earliest, but on the branches cut by a third, it will ripen later. If you cut some of the branches in half, then they will yield even later. Having shortened the branches to a level of 25-20 cm from the ground, we will get a harvest somewhere in the end of July - in August, and there it is not far from the remontant raspberry. This way you can adjust the raspberry crop as you see fit.

Be sure to tie long branches obliquely so that they receive more light and are not thickened. I remove the shoots as soon as it grows up a little, with a sharp shovel, or even just pull out unnecessary shoots without pruning. If you remove the overgrowth with a pruner, it grows even more and depletes the main bush.

I cut off the repair raspberries at the soil level before the onset of stable frosts, and next summer I thin out and tie up the grown shoots, like in summer raspberries.

Disease and pest control should be disclosed separately in the letter - too much material.

3. FEEDING RASPBERRY

I spend them mainly in the fall, but last year I got sick in November, and the procedure had to be postponed to the spring. In early spring, when loosening, you can apply mineral fertilizers. I water in May (in the phase of ovary formation) with chicken droppings and add sifted ash 0 liters each under the bush, then water and mulch with a layer of 5-10 cm. I use humus with straw, which provides top dressing in summer.

4. VISUAL INSPECTION

During the growing season, I constantly monitor the condition of the raspberries.

If the leaves have lightened and stopped growing, there is not enough nitrogen, and if the bush is fattening, there is a lot of nitrogen, in excess.

If the leaves are brown (burnt at the edges), there is not enough potassium.

Shoots are weak, thin - little phosphorus.

If the leaves turn yellow from the center to the edge and the bush does not grow well, you can try adding magnesium.

The leaves are yellowish, and the veins are green - lack of iron. We apply appropriate measures, best of all - spraying on the leaf.

Secrets of growing remontant raspberries in the middle lane

5. AUTUMN SLOPES IN THE RASPBERRY

After the first frost, I prepare summer raspberries for winter: I remove the leaves with my hand in a mitten - I draw them from the bottom up. I immediately rake the leaves and burn them. I harvest the fruit-bearing shoots in the summer. I do not tilt or bend raspberries (we are in the south), in some places I tie them up and mulch with straw and humus. This is top dressing and mulch.

For the prevention of diseases and pests, I recommend sprinkling with iron sulfate (4%) or copper (3%) in the fall.

I cut out the repair raspberries at ground level and mulch the plot.

RASPBERRY MARMALADE OWN HANDS

4 cups prepared raspberries, 4 tbsp. l. sugar, 2 tsp. agar agar, 2 glasses of water.

In a saucepan, pour sugar and agar-agar with water, stir and heat over low heat, stirring constantly. We crush the berries in a sieve, turning them into mashed potatoes, so that the juice flows into a container. You should make about 400 ml of juice. Bring the agar-agar with water and sugar to a strong boil, gradually pour in raspberry juice in a trickle, mix and remove from heat. Pour the resulting mixture into molds and put in the cold for 20 minutes. Then we remove the finished marmalade from the molds.

Attention! Agar-agar begins to solidify at a temperature of 40 °.

Reference by topic: Repaired raspberry (photo) planting and leaving from A to Z

REPAIR RASPBERRY - HARVEST SECRETS ON VIDEO

REPAIR RASPBERRY: the secrets of the harvest. Pruning rules for both types

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Dacha with their own hands > Garden plants > Shrubs in the country > Raspberries > Secrets of growing raspberries - prevention, pruning, feeding and autumn inspection and care

2 Review (s)

Yuri Mikhailovich SHUTOV
14/02/2022 (08:25) #

Once I decided to experiment with pruning raspberries: I left several strong shoots that did not bear fruit, and the next year we picked berries from them on July 1, while from new bushes - only on August 1. A month of difference! I left a third of the bushes for next year, and last year's bushes do not in the least affect the new crop. We have raspberry Polka, we really like it - 75 buckets of berries were collected from 20 bushes. We have three daughters, seven granddaughters, so there is enough for everyone, there is still some left for sale.

Alla KOCHAN, Vyazma
02/12/2021 (10:57) #

Pruning remontant raspberries: there is a secret

I grow the repair raspberries in a one-year cycle, that is, in November-early December, I cut out the entire above-ground part at the root. This is how the plantation provides most of the potential yield.
When pruning, I do not leave hemp - this is important! Let me explain: when pruning to the very level of the soil (or a little lower), new growth next year is formed from the buds on the roots. As a friend of the agronomist assured, and later practice showed this, in remontant varieties, such shoots give strong, powerful shoots and are more productive in comparison with those that are formed from buds on a segment of an old shoot. But in summer raspberries, the shoots that have formed on the shoot itself are more productive. Therefore, when pruning such bushes, I leave small hemp (5-7 cm).