FRUIT GARDEN WORKS IN SEPTEMBER - CARE OF TREES

September. Harvesting season, preparing plants for wintering and purchasing seedlings. It is necessary to spray trees from pests and diseases, to carry out sanitary pruning, if necessary, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

WE COLLECT YOUR CROP

Gardeners with little experience do not always harvest apples on time. Often the fruits are overripe, a carrion appears. In this case, they are not stored for a long time. In addition, late harvesting depletes the tree, and it hibernates worse.

Apples have removable and consumer maturity. Removable maturity occurs when the fruit stops growing, but at this time not all apples are suitable for consumption. The characteristic signs of removable maturity are that the stalk is easily separated from the branch, the seeds turn brown, the fruit pulp is less dense, the main color of the fruit changes from green to green-yellow or yellow.

Consumer maturity occurs when the fruits acquire the color, aroma and taste characteristic of each variety.

In summer and early autumn varieties, the demountable and consumer maturity coincide. The fruits of winter varieties are removed when they reach removable maturity, then they ripen and only then acquire consumer maturity.

In the middle lane in the first half of September apples of varieties Melba, Cinnamon striped are harvested. Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Autumn Joy, Folk, Dessert Petrova, Golden Autumn, Striped Anise, Anisaly, Streif-ling.

In the second half of September, they start picking apples of winter varieties, such as Antonovka ordinary, Welsey, Mayak, Slavyanka, Berkutovskoe, Ramenskoe. Star.

In late September - early October, late winter varieties are harvested - Lobo, Spartan, Bogatyr, Spartak, Gift to Grafsky, Vityaz, Kortland, Renet Kichunova, Martovskoe.

Remove the apples so as not to damage either the fruit itself or the fruit on which it is located and which will be harvested next year. If the fruit is wet with dew or rain, dry it under a canopy, but do not wipe it off so as not to destroy the natural wax deposit necessary for storage.

In order for the fruits to be stored for a long time, you need to collect only healthy ones, without scratches, signs of diseases and pests. Store apples in boxes or trays, in plastic bags with holes in a cool, dark place.

A few words about picking pears and plums. In early September, they finish eating the fruits of autumn varieties: Memory of Zhegalov. Belesa, Thumbelina, Just Maria, Bryansk beauty, Kokinskaya. In the last days of the month, and if the weather permits, then later, they begin to collect fruits of late autumn and winter varieties of pears - Belorusskaya late, Maria, Nika, Yuryevskaya, Bohema. Novella.

At the beginning of September, the collection of late varieties of plums is finished - Vengerka Moskovskaya, Stanley, President, Pamyat Timiryazev, Alexy.

When the fruits are harvested, do not forget to remove the supports, disinfect them and clean them before the next season.

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See also: What not to forget to do in September in the vegetable garden and garden - a memo from the candidate of agricultural sciences

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WE CARRY OUT SANITARY CUTTING OF TREES IN THE GARDEN IN SEPTEMBER

If you see diseased, broken, or withered branches in the trees, remove them. This must be done so that the bark does not appear in winter, and the spores of pathogenic fungi do not overwinter. Cover the wounds with a special modern wound treatment or garden varnish. Leave the main pruning for the spring.

Sanitize the hollows and wounds, for example, with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). But first, clean off any rot, if any. It is convenient to close up the hollows with polyurethane foam. Or you can use the method suggested by V. Kontsevykh. He prepares a mixture of 4-5 liters of sawdust or shavings (fraction up to 10 mm), 40 g of HOM powder and 1 liter of natural drying oil. After stirring, it leaves for 10-12 hours, then puts the mixture in a dry, clean hollow and tamp it. After 4-5 days, the mixture becomes cork-like. It is better to cover the filling with oil paint from above.

FEEDING THE GARDEN IN SEPTEMBER

In autumn, a period of intensive root growth begins. At this time, apple and pear trees need additional fertilizing with organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They contribute to better overwintering of fruit trees. Nitrogen fertilizers, of course, are not applied, since they stimulate growth.

At the end of September, dig up the soil in the near-trunk circles of young seedlings of fruit trees. You can dig to a depth of 15 cm along the perimeter of the crown projection and immediately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Moreover, it is desirable to apply mineral fertilizers every year, organic - once every 3-4 years. Near the trunk, the soil can simply be loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm.

Dig up the trunks of adult trees, too, if they are not under turf, and feed them. The fertilizer rate for adult trees is 30-40 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of potassium chloride and 3-4 kg of organic matter (compost, rotted manure) per 1 sq. m. For young trees, halve the application rate.

If the near-trunk circle is free, then it is easy to apply fertilizers, but how to feed a tree where the near-trunk circle is sown with a lawn or flowers grow there? In this case, along the perimeter of the crown projection, dig holes up to 40 cm deep and fill them with fertilizers, premixed with the ground,

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See also: September and the beginning of October in the garden and in the country - 5 MANDATORY affairs

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PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN SEPTEMBER

When planting fruit crops in autumn, planting pits are prepared in the following sizes: for 1-2-year-old seedlings - with a diameter of 60-80 cm and a depth of 40-50 cm, for older trees, the sizes are accordingly increased. On loamy and clayey soils, add 1-1 buckets of humus or compost, 2-250 g of superphosphate, 300-100 g of potassium chloride or 150-400 g of wood ash to each pit. On sandy soils, apply the same fertilizer, but add a couple of buckets of clay or river silt. On peaty soils, the mineral fertilizer is the same, but the dose of organic matter should be doubled. On the rich garden land, fertilizers can not be applied, it is enough to fill the hole with only a fertile layer of soil.

Cover the upper third of the pit with soil without fertilizers or with a mixture of soil and peat (in equal proportions) so that the roots do not come into direct contact with fertilizers and do not get burned.

If the groundwater is close to the site, then you do not need to dig holes, and plant fruit on a mound.

Many gardeners grow seedlings or rootstocks on their own. In this case, the digging and transplanting is best done in the spring.

If the seedlings are purchased, then it is better to buy them in the fall (there is more choice), and put them in a joke for the winter, not forgetting about protection from rodents (spruce branches, poisonous baits), and plant them in a permanent place in the spring. But now, in mid-September, is the time to prepare the ground for the spring planting. Distribute mineral and organic fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​the site where you will plant seedlings, and also lime on acidic soil. Dig up, embedding fertilizers.

On loamy and heavy clay soils, add 40-60 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride, 4-6 kg of organic matter, 300-700 g of lime (depending on acidity).

Mark planting sites with pegs. Standard layouts of apple and pear trees for backyard plots are 5 × 4 m, 5 × 3 m. 4 × 4 m.Then dig planting holes with a diameter of 50-80 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm.Fill them with fertile soil taken from the top layer and mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers. For sod-podzolic soils, one planting pit requires 20-30 kg of rotted manure or compost, 200-300 g of superphosphate, 100-150 g of potassium chloride or 800 g of wood ash.

On sandy and sandy loam soils, put loamy soil mixed with humus at the bottom of the planting pit in a layer of at least 10 cm.

It happens that a tree needs to be transplanted to another place. If it is young, not older than 4 - 5 years, then there will be no problems. Just try to preserve the root system as much as possible during digging and do not deepen the root collar when planting. The tree takes root faster if it is transplanted together with a dug out lump of earth on the roots.

It is more difficult to replant an adult tree, since the older it is, the larger its root system and the larger the earthen lump should be. Trees older than 10 years of age should not be replanted. This is difficult not only because of the large size of the aboveground part, but also because the roots will be severely damaged. And if you cut off the main part of the suction roots (lobe), then the tree will either hurt for a long time, or it will die altogether. It is easier to plant this variety on another rootstock (an adult tree or a young seedling).

FIGHTING THE DISEASES OF THE GARDEN

In the fall, it's time to process the garden. Against scab on apple and pear, as well as against coccomycosis on cherries and plums, immediately after harvesting, sprinkle the crowns with a 4-5% urea solution (400-500 g per 10 liters of water).

If you cannot do this before the leaves fall, you can spray it after the leaves fall, but to treat the fallen leaves, take a more concentrated 7% urea solution. 10 liters of solution is enough for 30 sq. m processing.

And here is a recipe for an effective remedy for fungal diseases from our subscriber: mix 700 g of urea, 500 g of ferrous sulfate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of citric acid, 3 tbsp. tablespoons of green soap (for sticking) and diluted with water to 10 liters.

GARDEN CRYSTAL: 7 WORKS IN SEPTEMBER

These simple tricks of experienced gardeners will help you end the season with dignity. Don't neglect them!

1. Tear off the roots

In order not to crack the heads of late-ripening white cabbage, in the first half of September I tear the roots, chopping them off with a shovel or pulling on the stump. Moisture from the soil will cease to flow into the head of cabbage, and the cabbage will remain on the root for another 2-3 weeks, and it will also easily tolerate night frosts.

From Brussels sprouts, I cut off the lower yellowing leaves so that it is better ventilated. To increase the yield, at the very beginning of September (20-30 days before harvest) I pinch the tops.

Two weeks before harvesting, I cover the heads of cauliflower with broken leaves of the same plant. Thanks to this, the heads do not crumble, they remain white and dense.

Ludmila UZDENEVA

2. Add tomatoes

If September pleases with warmth, in the open field I do not remove small tomatoes from the upper brushes, I let them pour on the branches. True, on cold days and at night I cover it with a film. I put the tomatoes collected in green in 2-3 layers in small boxes and put them to ripen in a warm, dry place, and if possible, lay them out on the floor of the room in one layer.

Natalia Furs

3. Watch the weather

I take off the last fruits of sweet pepper as soon as the air temperature in the greenhouse during the day drops to +15 degrees. The fact is that pepper loves warmth and stops growing at a lower temperature. If you continue to keep the plants in the greenhouse, the pepper will ache and the infection may remain in the soil until next year.

Claudia NIKIFORCHIK

4. Prepare fertilizers

There is a lot of tops left after harvest. Usually it is dried and burned. But if it rains, it's hard to do. Therefore, for many years now I have been using the tops with benefit - I am preparing fertilizer. I put the plant residues in a heap, send overgrown fruits and other substandard there. I water everything with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, sprinkle with 10-15 cm of earth. After a couple of days, I spill a bunch of any microbiological preparation diluted according to the instructions (for example, Sanex). I cover it with a black foil with holes. By the spring, everything is overheated, and I get a good natural fertilizer.

Natalia PODGAYNA

5. Send pumpkin seeds to the bins

A week before harvesting, I stop watering zucchini, zucchini, squash and pumpkins. Then I carefully cut them with a knife or pruning shears together with a 5-6 cm long stalk. I harvest the pumpkins last - at the end of September. I lay out zucchini and pumpkins for a week on the veranda, windowsill or in any bright room so that they are soaked in the sun, then I transfer them to a dry place. I store it under the bed, spreading it out on straw.

Lyudmila Zhilinskaya

6. Stock up on aromatic herbs

In September, I harvest sage, lemon balm, oregano, hyssop, tarragon, catnip, anise lofant.

I cut herbs in dry weather. I tie in bunches and dry in a bath or a pantry in a suspended form. I store it shredded in a kitchen cabinet in tightly sealed glass jars.

Hope ODINTSOVA

7. Harvest root vegetables

Beets, whose heads half peep out of the ground, are harvested first of all immediately after light frosts. I select only completely healthy and whole root crops for storage.

I regularly loosen the soil on the carrot bed, because if a soil crust forms, the growing root crops will not have enough oxygen, and they will stop filling up or get sick.

Anastasia PUSHKARSKAYA

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WORKS IN THE SECOND HALF OF SEPTEMBER

FRUIT CROPS

Carry out a “blue” spraying of fruit and berry crops with 3% Bordeaux liquid (300 g of freshly slaked lime and 300 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water) or copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water).

At the end of the month, whitewash with lime or paint the trunks, stems and skeletal branches of the apple tree with water-based white paint.

Apply organic (10-15 kg per bush) and mineral fertilizers (80-120 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium sulfate or 300-500 g of fruit and berry or garden mixture) under currants and gooseberries, as well as 200-300 g each wood ash.

WE CARRY OUT QATAR

In young vineyards, the so-called cataring is carried out - the removal of the upper roots in order to force the plant to develop deeper soil horizons. After this operation, holes with a depth of 10-15 cm are left near the plants to dry the places where the superficial roots are cut and protect them from re-growth. The cut sites are disinfected with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or 1% boric acid.

WE CARE ABOUT TREES AND SHRUBS

When the leaves begin to turn yellow and redden on fruit trees and berry bushes, at this time organic and mineral fertilizers should be applied and the soil dug up: under apple and pear trees - to a depth of 10-20, under stone fruit crops - up to 10 cm. and level the surface and loosen with a rake. If fruit trees are affected by scab, they should be sprayed with a 4% urea solution. This should be done after the fruit is harvested, but before the onset of leaf fall.

VEGETABLE CROPS

At the end of the month, start harvesting table root crops - beets and carrots.

Prepare greenhouses for the next season, whitewash their structures with freshly slaked lime or thick bleach sludge.

Collect soil in plastic bags for laying seedlings in spring.

DISINFECT THE SOIL

There are several ways to disinfect the soil. With the biological method of disinfection, the soil is taken out of greenhouses and hotbeds, stacked, layered with fresh manure, and watered with slurry. To prevent weeds from growing in the stack, spraying with a solution of lime is carried out. After 2-3 years, the soil becomes healthy.

DECORATIVE CROPS

In the third decade, when the soil temperature is 9-10 degrees Celsius, start planting tulip bulbs.

At the end of the month, cut the stems of roses to the level of a bunch. Prepare spruce branches for shelter. Remove climbing roses from supports, cut out thin and dry shoots, lay compactly on the ground, fix with bricks, cover with foil and cover with insulating material.

At the end of the month, carry out the last pruning of the season. Cut out all broken, pest-damaged and disease-affected branches, as well as those that lie on the ground.

Start preparing for autumn planting and transplanting plants.

Carry out the last mowing of the lawn, leaving the height of the herbage at least 10 cm.

WE PLANT TULIPS

In the third decade, when the soil temperature is 9-10 degrees Celsius, they start planting tulip bulbs. If they are planted earlier, then in the spring on the stem that has started to grow, the leaves may be damaged by frost. The planting depth is equal to three bulb heights. On heavy soils, it should be reduced by 2-3 cm. The distance between large bulbs is 7-8 cm, small ones are planted more often - after 5 cm. A layer of clean river sand 2-3 cm thick is also poured under them.

DIGGING GLADIOLUS

When the leaves of gladiolus begin to turn yellow, they dig out their bulbs, which are washed for 15-20 minutes, let the water drain, and then wrapped in newsprint. All this must be done so as not to confuse plant varieties. Then the bulbs are placed to dry in a warm place.

PEOPLE APPLICATIONS

Large ant heaps in the second half of September - to a harsh winter.

If cones have grown on spruce, early frosts are low, and if upstairs, real cold will strike only at the end of winter.

If there are a lot of mountain ash in the forest on Peter and Paul (September 23), the autumn is rainy and the winter is harsh, if it is not enough, the autumn is dry and the winter is mild.

On Ivan Gusyatnik (September 28) they said: “The goose raises its paw - to a cold, stands on one leg - to frost, rinses in the water - to heat, hides its nose under the wing - to early winter.”

The contaminated soil mixture can be disinfected in layers with dry bleach (200 g per 1 sq. M of earth with a layer of 20 cm). Then put it in a stack for freezing, shovel it in the summer and use it again in a year or two.

To disinfect the soil, you can also use it by heating it on metal trays in ovens or on a stove. The soil is placed on a baking sheet in a layer of 15 cm and placed in the oven for 45 minutes at 120 degrees, then taken out, mixed and processed again in the same mode. The cooled soil is then stored in clean containers for later use.

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SCHEDULE OF WORK IN SEPTEMBER WHICH WILL BE SUITABLE FOR MOST HOUSEHOLDERS FROM DIFFERENT REGIONS

FOLK SIGNS FOR SEPTEMBER

Cranes fly high, slowly and “talk” - it will be a good and warm autumn. And if it’s low, fast and silent, expect bad weather and night frosts soon.

A rich rowan harvest in the forest indicates a rainy autumn and harsh winter.

Chickens molt in early autumn - leading to a warm winter.

SEPTEMBER - WORKS IN THE GARDEN

The gifts of the autumn garden continue to be harvested - late-ripening plums, mountain ash, viburnum, rose hips, mid-ripening grape varieties, remontant raspberries, and blackberries.

CLEANING WITHOUT LOSS

The phase of removable maturity of late autumn, early and late winter varieties of apples and pears intended for long-term storage is beginning. Everything must be harvested on time to preserve the harvest well.

The time for harvesting apples and pears occurs when the seeds turn brown and the fruits are easily separated from the branches. The fruits are removed with stalks, punctures and other damage to the skin are avoided and a waxy coating is retained on the surface of the fruit. All this improves their keeping quality. Harvesting is preferably done in the morning in dry, sunny weather after the dew has dried. First of all, well-colored fruits along the periphery of the crown are removed, and after 2-3 days - all the rest.

Immediately after picking, apples and pears are cooled to 2-3°C, placing them in cold storage. This allows you to slow down life processes. For further storage indoors, it is necessary to maintain air humidity of 80-90% and temperature less than 5°C.

KEEP IN MIND

Prematurely picked apples do not sit well - they quickly wither, are damaged by tanning, are overly sour and lose their flavor. Delay in harvesting even by a few days leads to overripe fruits. Their flesh becomes coarser, often turning brown or loosening, like that of boiled crumbly potatoes. When fruits are overexposed, the trees become severely depleted and their winter hardiness decreases.

AUTUMN FEEDING

In September, the vegetative buds enter the resting phase, but the vital processes of the flowering buds continue. During this period, there is an intensive growth of new suction and growth roots. Therefore, trees and shrubs need additional nutrition, which consists of fertilizing with organic matter and mineral phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Such fertilizing significantly increases the winter hardiness and frost resistance of plants.

Organic fertilizers are applied after leaf fall, when trees and shrubs stop growing. Earlier application dates are unacceptable, since plants may begin a new wave of growth of ground mass, which will sharply reduce their resistance to frost.

On sandy and sandy loam soils, organic matter is added annually or every other year, on loamy soils – once every 1-2 years. Application rates depend on soil fertility and amount to 3-3 kg per 8 sq.m of tree trunk circle.

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied annually on poor soils, and once every 3-4 years on fertile soils (20-30 g per 1 sq.m).

Acidic soils in tree trunk circles are limed by adding 300-500 g of lime, dolomite flour or other calcareous materials every 3-4 years, but not simultaneously with the addition of organic matter.

SO THAT YOU KNOW

Pear responds well to increased doses of potassium fertilizers. But since on sandy and sandy loam soils potassium is quickly washed into the subsoil layers, the dose of these fertilizers on them is increased by about 20-25%.

PLANTING GARDEN CROPS

When planning to plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of a particular region. In order for the seedlings to take root well and overwinter, they are planted 3-4 weeks before the onset of stable frosts.

Autumn planting of berry bushes works well in all gardening zones. Fruit tree seedlings can be planted in regions with long autumns and mild winters both in autumn and in spring. In the northern regions, it is better to postpone planting to the spring, leaving the seedlings in the cold.

For good survival rate, further active growth and development, seedlings need to properly prepare planting holes. They are dug 1-5 weeks before planting so that the soil is well weathered. The size of the holes depends on the fertility and mechanical composition of the soil. On sands and sandy loams they are dug 2 times wider and deeper than on loams and clays in order to add more nutritious soil with increased doses of organic matter (1-5 buckets), as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In low places with close standing groundwater, holes are not dug, but planting is carried out on arranged ridges or hills.

Fresh and half-rotted manure, as well as nitrogen mineral fertilizers, cannot be added to the planting pit as organic matter, so as not to cause burns to the root system of the seedlings.

For planted trees, when the soil shrinks in the planting hole, the root collar should be slightly above or at the level of the soil surface. At the time of planting, the seedling is installed so that it is located 5-7 cm above the edges of the hole. When planting currants, raspberries, gooseberries and other shrub species, the neck is deepened by 5-7 cm.

In areas where cold weather sets in at the end of October - November, early September is not too late to plant strawberry seedlings. By winter it will take root and overwinter well.

SANITARY MEASURES

Dried, broken and diseased branches are cut out. Mummified fruits are removed from trees.

Corrugated paper trapping belts are removed and burned. Fabric ones are immediately soaked in hot water and washed in a solution of soda ash so that they can be used next year.

Immediately after harvesting, the crowns of fruit trees are sprayed against fungal diseases with fungicides (Horus. Abiga-Peak, 1% Bordeaux mixture. Strobi, Skor, etc.). For these purposes, at the very beginning of leaf fall, you can use urea - 500-700 g per 10 liters of water, consumption per tree - 2-5 liters, depending on age.

If these deadlines are missed and leaf fall occurs, then the fallen leaves are processed. For 30 sq.m, use 10 liters of a 7% solution (700 g per 10 liters of water). All fallen healthy leaves and those after processing are sent for composting. It is better to burn the sick, untreated ones.

In the middle zone and in the northern regions, great damage is caused to gooseberries and currants by the gooseberry moth, the pupae of which overwinter in the upper soil layer under the bushes. Autumn tillage in tree trunk circles and hilling bushes to a height of 8-10 cm contribute to the death of a significant number of the pest. Unhilling is carried out in the spring after flowering.

The ends of currant and gooseberry shoots affected by powdery mildew are cut out and burned, and the bushes are treated with a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water).

CARE FOR GRAPES IN SEPTEMBER

By the onset of cold weather and frost, the wood of annual grape shoots must ripen well in order to successfully overwinter without damage. To speed up its ripening, at the beginning of the month, the bushes are sprayed with a 6-7-day infusion of ash (1 liter of ash per 10 liters of water) or a solution of potassium sulfate (10-15 g per 10 liters of water) 2-3 times every 5-6 days.

High air humidity and warm weather in early autumn favor the outbreak and spread of mildew and oidium. After harvesting early and mid-ripening varieties, the grape bushes are treated with Sporobacterin, Albit, Medea, Kurzat R and other fungicides allowed on private farms.

VEGETABLE GROVER'S CONCERNS IN SEPTEMBER

The last harvest of cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, and squash is carried out in the open ground. Finish harvesting onions and garlic. Peppers and tomatoes continue to be harvested in greenhouses. If the average daily air temperature drops below 8°C, not only brown, but also green tomatoes are removed from the bushes. If the fruits are not removed in a timely manner, they quickly turn black and rot.

HARVEST

The timing for harvesting root crops and mid-season, mid-late and late potato varieties is suitable. Dry, sunny days are selected for harvesting work. 8 First of all, the table beets are harvested. Root crops that have been in the garden for a long time crack due to sharp changes in night and day temperatures and soil moisture, their flesh becomes coarser and is often damaged by mice and other pests.

Carrots intended for long-term storage are harvested as late as possible. In the autumn, it intensively increases its yield, but stops growing when the average daily temperature is below 4°C. In addition, root vegetables kept in the ground are better stored.

Before frost, turnips, daikon, radishes and other root vegetables are harvested.

Potatoes begin to be dug when the tubers do not hold onto the stolons and the peel does not rub off when touched by the fingers. To speed up the ripening of tubers, the tops are mowed and removed 7-10 days before harvesting. It is advisable to dry it and burn it, since the resulting ash contains a large amount of potassium and is a highly concentrated fertilizer that does not contain chlorine.

Seed tubers of each variety are selected from highly productive healthy bushes, which are marked before mass harvesting. They should be well-formed, weighing 50-70 g. Before storing them, they are greened by holding them in diffused light for several days. Each variety is accompanied by a label and stored separately in nets or boxes.

Potatoes dug up and well-dried in the sun should be placed for 2-3 weeks in a dark, well-ventilated room to identify tuber diseases. After this, the diseased tubers are removed, and the healthy ones are placed in the cellar for storage.

TO KEEP THE SOIL FERTILITY

With the harvest of vegetables and potatoes, a large amount of nutrients is removed from the soil, and humus reserves are reduced. In order to get a good harvest in the future, it is necessary to restore soil fertility.

First, all plant debris is removed from the garden. Healthy ones use it to prepare compost, sick ones burn it or bury it in a remote corner of the site.

If there are at least 4-5 weeks left before the onset of cold weather, the garden needs to be sown with green manure fast-growing crops: oilseed radish, winter rye, oats, rapeseed, mustard, rapeseed, and camelina. Before sowing, nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the soil (1-1.5 kg per hundred square meters) and shallow cultivation or harrowing is carried out. After a month, the grown green mass is mowed and plowed or buried.

Dig the soil using a shovel full without breaking the clods. During the winter the ground will freeze well. and in the spring it will be better saturated with moisture.

KEEP IN MIND

Simultaneously with manure, burnt or slaked lime, cement dust, shale ash, burnt dolomite flour should not be added as a lime material: this can lead to losses of ammonia nitrogen from the manure. These materials are incorporated into the soil by harrowing or cultivation before adding organic matter. Simultaneously with organic fertilizers, natural limestone tuff, limestone and dolomite flour can be applied and plowed.

Before autumn digging, acidic soils are limed, organic matter is added, as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Liming of acidic soils increases the effectiveness of organic and mineral fertilizers.

In September, beds are prepared for winter crops of carrots, beets, dill, parsley and other cold-resistant vegetable and green crops.

When preparing the soil for planting winter garlic and onion sets, humus or well-ripened compost is suitable as organic fertilizer. Fresh and half-rotted manure cannot be applied. These crops are planted approximately 3 weeks before the onset of sustained frost to allow them to root.

© Author: Nikolai Rogovtsov, agronomist Photo by the author

FLOWER DIARY – SEPTEMBER

IN THE GARDEN

Most of the summer flowers have already bloomed, but other, no less beautiful plants are coming to the fore - asters, ore-beckias, dahlias, sedums, chrysanthemums. We continue to admire the autumn colors and do not forget about important matters. In autumn, as in spring, there is a lot of work in the flower garden!

At the beginning of autumn, they begin to divide perennial flowers (astilbe, hosta, brunner, daylilies, paniculata phlox, lilies). It is best to divide and replant flowers that bloom in the spring and first half of summer at this time.

Dig up the plants, divide them into parts, keeping 2-4 renewal buds in each. Trim the ends, dust with crushed coal or ash. In the middle zone, it is advisable to have time to divide perennials before mid-September, but if the autumn is warm - before the end. The main thing is that before frost the plants have time to take root well and preserve the established flower buds.

If you need to plant perennials that bloom in the second half of summer, first remove their flower stalks and partially cut off the foliage (plant at the level of the root collar). Soak plants with an open root system for 2-3 hours in water with the addition of a root formation stimulator.

If you don't plan to divide your perennials, be sure to take care of them. In preparation for winter, they accumulate nutrients. Help your plants by feeding them.

Have time to feed the roses before mid-September with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or ash - 1 liter per sq.m. It is not recommended to use compost or humus for these purposes!

For hydrangea, make liquid fertilizer at the end of September: add 10 tbsp to a 1-liter bucket of warm water. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. It is advisable to combine liquid fertilizing with watering.

Lilies will need feeding after trimming faded shoots: dilute 10 tbsp in 1 liters of warm water. spoon of potassium magnesium and superphosphate. Be sure to scatter wood ash around the plants (1 liter per 1 sq.m.) - this will serve as a good prevention of infections.

Make shallow grooves around the peony bushes, pour granules of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers into them (2 tablespoons of superphosphate and potassium magnesium per bush).

For phlox in mid-September, you can use any autumn complex fertilizer. In late autumn, cut off the stems of the plants and mulch the stumps (you can use peat or fallen leaves for this purpose).

In mid-September, for the last time of the season, feed chrysanthemums that bloom until late autumn with ready-made autumn mineral fertilizer or an infusion of wood ash.

At the beginning of September, it is necessary to pinch off the tops of all young shoots of roses (this will stop their growth) and stop loosening the soil in the circles near the trunks, so as not to contribute to the awakening of dormant buds in the plants. Don't forget to spray the roses with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water).

Before frost sets in, hill up the bushes to a height of 20 cm (use peat and sand) to protect the lower part of the shoots from frost.

Stop watering and feeding dahlias. At the beginning of the month, hill up their stems to a height of 8-8 cm to protect the root collar with renewal buds from frost.

To prevent rust, spray asters weekly with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Gaillardias bloom profusely until frost. To help them with this, promptly remove faded flower stalks in September and do not allow seeds to form prematurely, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and the plants will lose their elegant appearance. Collect seeds from individual specimens selected by flower color.

Prune large leaf hydrangea. It blooms on last year's shoots, but without shelter the bush freezes over. So that such a hydrangea will delight you with its flowering next year. it is necessary to preserve as many of last year's shoots as possible. Cut only the inflorescences themselves, without touching the flower buds.

From the second half of September you can start digging up gladioli. The main thing is that from the moment the inflorescences are cut, the corm remains in the soil for at least 30 days (this is necessary for its ripening).

After digging, wash the corms, cut the stem to the base with pruning shears, remove the old mother corm, separate the children and roots of the replacement young corm.

Corms grown from tubers (babies) will be well stored if the roots are not torn off from them, but simply cut with scissors. In the second half of September, start planting tulips. Choose a place for them that is bright, protected from cold winds, with light sandy loam soil. If the soil is uncultivated, a week before planting, add 1-4 kg ​​of humus per 5 sq.m. 50-100 g of superphosphate. 40-60 g of nitroammophoska, 200 g of ash and bone meal.

FLOWERS IN THE HOUSE

At the beginning of autumn, some indoor plants are preparing for dormancy, others are emerging from it, others have laid buds, others are in the midst of flowering, and all of them need to be given attention.

Dendrobium nobile requires a period of rest before the appearance of flower buds on the pseudobulbs. Try to keep it cool (the optimal temperature for the plant during the day is 1520°C, at night 510°C). Do not water or feed it while resting.

For Dieffenbachia, reduce watering slightly. For small specimens, wash the leaves in the shower; for large specimens, wipe them with a soft, damp sponge.

In Schlumbergera, the formation of flower buds is influenced by the length of daylight hours and the temperature (optimally 10-15°C). Do not rush to bring it into the house in the fall before the onset of low positive night temperatures. Starting in September, feed Schlumbergera with fertilizer containing potassium.

Bring tropical and heat-loving plants (fuchsias, abutilons, dracaenas) indoors when night temperatures drop to 57°C. Succulents, cacti, citrus fruits, bougainvillea, brugmansia can withstand temperatures down to 3,5°C. but they must be sent indoors before frost sets in.

Before moving into the house, carefully inspect both sides of the leaf blades to detect pests in time. Trim diseased and damaged shoots. Gradually acclimate the plants by keeping them in areas protected from rain and wind at intermediate temperatures.

© Author: Julia Kupina, experienced florist Photo from the author's album

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See also: What you need to do in September in the garden and garden

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BASIC WORKS IN THE GARDEN IN SEPTEMBER - VIDEO ABOUT FRUIT CARE

© Author: I. AFANASIEVA, agronomist

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