Winter planting of garlic, onions, shallots, rocumball and tiered onions
REPCHY, MULTI-TIERED BOW AND ALSO AFLATUNIAN AND ANZUR - LANDING IN AUTUMN
You won't surprise anyone with winter garlic. Rather, spring garlic will cause questions, since getting its planting material is now akin to the West. However, with proper planting, other onion crops can be successfully grown in the fall.
A good harvest is given by winter onions, multi-tiered onions, as well as perennial Aflatun and Anzur (bulbous forms). But for this you need to carefully prepare the planting material.
The uterine bulbs are taken from the garlic. Their mass can range from 50 g to 90 g. Now varieties with large, well-developed teeth (not less than 8 g) have gained popularity. 6-8 of them are formed in the bulb. The largest teeth are selected for planting. The old bottom must be removed, otherwise it will prevent the formation of new roots. The next stage is fungicide treatment.
In the current conditions, this is an important condition for obtaining a healthy harvest. You can use preparations suitable for onion plants. For example, I prefer to use a fungicide with the active ingredient fludioxonil - there is not much harm from it and is suitable for private household plots.
IMPORTANT. For a good overwintering when planting, the cloves and bulbs should not be “undressed”, on the contrary, care must be taken to ensure that dry integumentary scales do not fly off the planting material.
Garlic grows better in the beds, if you leave a distance of 7-9 cm between the plants, and between the rows 30-35 cm.The planting depth is 5-7 cm.After 10 days after planting, the beds must be mulched with peat or humus, as well as leaf litter or tops from vegetable and flower crops with a layer of 2-3 cm.
This will serve as the key to better wintering, and therefore good regrowth in the spring. As for the varieties, the most popular are Dobrynya, Dubkovsky, Rusich, Strelets, Shadeyka, Petrovsky, Yubileiny Gribovsky, Lyubasha, etc.
Planting of onions in winter allows you to get an earlier harvest for the next year. For this purpose, select an onion with a diameter of 1 cm or less. The larger one is the onion set; it is not suitable for planting in the fall.
He will go to the arrow and divide into 2-3 onions, and their preservation is worse. On sale now you can find such varieties of onions as Radar, Icebreaker, Arctic, Ellan, Stuttgarter Riesen, Centrurion, Troy, etc. All of them are suitable for winter crops.
The calibrated bulbs are carefully inspected, leaving only dry and healthy, free from damage, unpleasant odor and signs of rot. Just like chives, bulbs are soaked in fungicide according to the instructions.
But onions are planted in the garden 2 weeks later than garlic. This is due to the fact that planting too early can negatively affect the yield of the crop. If the warm weather lasts for a long time in the fall, the onion starts to grow, the feather begins to grow, and its winter hardiness is much lower.
IMPORTANT. Under the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, the optimal dates for planting winter onions are the third decade of October - the first decade of November.
The onion planting scheme is 5-7 cm between plants and 30 cm between rows. Winter onions respond positively to mulching, which allows you to get an early and high-quality harvest.
Onion rarities can also be planted before winter. These include hairstyle bow (rockumbol), shallots and tiered onions, as well as Aflatun onions, Anzur onions, Molly onions and other bulbous forms.
They are planted at the same time as garlic, and planting patterns depend on the type, bulb size and requirements of the onion plants. In particular, the agricultural technology of rockambol (varieties Tsarskoselsky and Yanychar) is no different from the agricultural technology of winter garlic. Planting scheme for multi-tiered onions (Ionovets variety), Aflatunsky (Samson variety) and Anzura - 10 cm between plants and 40 cm between rows. Planting material is prepared in the same way as chives.
Only shallots have their own characteristics in winter crops. Here, for planting, it is best to use such varieties as Dachnaya Sonata, Debut, Makarievsky, Nafanya, Batya, etc. Bulbs are selected with an average diameter (1, 5-2 cm) and an average weight of 15-18 g. The winter hardiness of the shallot is high, but you must observe certain rules.
So, let's say, it is worth considering that varieties with yellow-colored dry scales overwinter better than varieties with red and white dry scales. When planted in autumn, shallot bulbs are also treated with fungicides and the rest of the stem from the uterine bulb is removed. Planting shallots is mulched for early spring regrowth.
© Posted by T. SEREDIN, Senior Researcher, Onion Crop Breeding and Seed Research Laboratory
See also: Landing of winter garlic, its cultivation and varieties - from A to Z
GARLIC ACCORDING TO HORBUNK RATE
BULBS, or airy bulbs, form on uncut garlic shoots. Someone throws them away, and someone uses them to rejuvenate the variety. The fact is that garlic degenerates over time, its yield decreases, and diseases appear. Therefore, I leave a few arrows every year. And in the fall, at the same time as regular garlic, I plant the bulbs.
At one time, I planted them in the same way as ordinary teeth. The logic was simple: if a large (or not very large) one-tooth grows out of a bulb next year, then in a year it will give a normal, full-fledged bulb. So why dig it up? Better to plant more space immediately! But, as they say, it was smooth on paper. In some years, this technique works 100%. But for this it is necessary that the autumn was not very long and warm. And then my one-teeth are sprouting - and a skiff. Freeze in winter. So now we have to dig them out too.
FOR MANY YEARS I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO PLANT GARLIC when the moon is in Capricorn (this year it is September 15-16 and October 12-13). To plant in September, in my opinion, is too early, in recent years the weather in autumn has been warm for a long time. So I plan to plant this year in October, so that the garlic has time to take root well, but not sprout. I will prepare the garden in advance. If you dig it up on the eve of planting, the soil will be loose and, settling, will pull the bulbs to a greater depth than necessary. The garlic, of course, will still grow (I tried to plant it deeper), but the bulbs will be smaller.
For digging, I add ash and humus, and also pour out the sediment from the barrel, in which nettles and other herbs were infused in summer. If there is no ash, I add 1 tbsp. spoon of double super phosphate per 1 sq. m beds, and after digging, I tighten the bed with a film.
I cook GARLIC FOR LANDING, as my daughter laughs, according to the recipe of the Little Humpbacked Horse. I make two baths: in one, salt water (2 tablespoons of table salt per 2 liters of water), and in the other - "sea" (1 teaspoon of copper sulfate per 2 liters of water). First, I pour the teeth and bulbs into salty water for 2-3 minutes, and then, for the same period, into a solution of vitriol. I take out, rinse, dry - and you can plant! I noticed that after such treatment, there are almost no rotten bulbs, although a lot of them were spoiled before.
© Author: Yu. ZHAROVA Ryazan region
See also: Planting winter garlic in a two-tier way (Kurgan)
WINTER PLANTING OF ONION AND GARLIC - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- What to do so that the onion sets do not go into the arrow?
- Onions Ishikura - growing
- Grow decorative onions
- Why is it necessary to cut the heel of the shallots before planting shallots?
- Decorative bow (photo) variety and name, place in the garden
- What is the difference between onion and onion sampling?
- Planting onions by dividing bulbs (family multiline onion)
- How to grow a shallot onion
- Leeks (photo) planting and care, useful properties
- Onion onion - the best varieties and species for planting
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Winter garlic pleased. We've had it for many years, I don't know the name. I have been planting in front of the Intercession in the same place for twenty years and only with large teeth, slightly pressing. The distance between the rows is 20 cm, in a row 10. I cover with coniferous litter, fertilize with ash. I choose before the day of Peter and Paul, July 12. Garlic I have always good, large. And in general, the past season was fruitful for many crops, almost everything was born.
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garlic generally turned out to be planted only in early December. With difficulty, she picked off the upper frozen layer of soil on the bed with a flat cutter, and with freezing hands, Grisha and I (the oldest child, he was seven years old) thrust the cloves into deep narrow pits, which we made with a stick. It’s a pity I can’t find a photo of how we plant garlic in the dark with falling snow ...
They thickly mulched the top - they took a car of spoiled silage from the farm, which they were going to take out anyway, and brought it to us. And this spring, garlic still appeared! But before planting, in order to have time to take root, it was germinated in tissue in a saucepan with water at the bottom in the refrigerator, so that the temperature difference was small after the house compared to the cold earth.
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This year there was no phytophthora at all, and the onion did not get sick with peronosporosis, it was born good, like garlic. The Exhibiting onion also grew excellent: in the spring it also grew under the covering material so that the seedlings would not burn out from the scorching sun.
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When planting winter garlic, I never deepen it. I plant at the end of September in the garden, where I make four longitudinal rows. The distance between the teeth is 10-15 cm. Why don't I deepen it? And the garlic itself will go to the desired depth. It sometimes happens that it rises even before the frost, but this does not affect its quality in any way later.
I came to the conclusion: the smaller you plant, the larger the garlic will be.
I never fertilize or water it - I learned this from my grandfather. He also advised to rake the soil from the heads two or three weeks before harvesting. And I always have garlic of wonderful quality and size. Yes! Here's another thing: many plant the largest cloves, and I, on the contrary, the smallest.