HARVEST RASPBERRY - ALL SECRETS IN ONE ARTICLE

The attitude of amateur gardeners to raspberries is different. Some believe that this is a plant that is undemanding to care: planted, and then only come to harvest the crop. As a result, the plantation is overgrown with weeds, the berries become smaller, the harvest falls every year. Such would-be gardeners collect no more than 0 kg of berries from a bush, while with normal care you can get 5 kg, and with good care even 2-4 kg.

WHAT DOES RASPBERRY WANT?

For the successful cultivation of raspberries, you need to know the requirements for the conditions of its growth and, if possible, fulfill them.

For normal growth and fruiting of raspberries, the growing season should be from 130 M to 160 days.

Many varieties withstand frosts in October up to 15-20 °, in November - 20-25 °, in December up to 25-30 °. In February-March, after a thaw, they are damaged at minus 20-30 °. It is very important that during this period the plants are covered with snow. Then they are well preserved during frosts on the snow surface up to 40-45 °. Raspberries love well-lit places. If there is not enough light, annual shoots are strongly stretched, become unstable to diseases and pests, the yield also decreases, and the quality of berries decreases.

HUMIDITY

Raspberries are also demanding on moisture. Most varieties prefer soil with a sufficient supply of moisture, but it suffers from excess of it. The greatest need of plants for water is during the period of the beginning of ripening of berries. In winter, raspberries, not covered by snow, often suffer from withering. The level of precipitation during the year of 700-755 mm is considered sufficient.

SOIL FOR RASPBERRY

What about the soil? Raspberries grow well on medium loamy soils with a pH of 5, 5-6 and a phosphorus and potassium content of 20-25 mg per 100 g. The groundwater level should be no closer than 1-15 m from the soil surface.

WE PLANT RASPBERRY IN THE SUN!

It is important to choose the right place for the raspberry tree. Be sure to consider all the requirements that we have listed above. Find an area for the raspberries that is protected from the cold wind by a building or fence. This will help protect the plant from drying out and create favorable conditions for retaining snow in winter, which means for better wintering. It is good to place raspberries along the hedge on the south side.

Plants that have common pests and diseases with raspberries (strawberries, potatoes, tomatoes) are undesirable as a precursor. The best predecessors are perennial grasses. Then dig up the top layer together with the sod in late autumn, while turning the sod upside down. The roots will die in the frost, then rot and decompose, and by the time the raspberries are planted, the soil will be ready.

Also, for raspberries, an area where early harvested crops grew is suitable.

In one place, raspberries can be grown for 12-15 years. Common raspberries - in a two-year cycle, remontant (autumn) - in a one-year cycle.

Common raspberries in the first year after planting give annual shoots, in the second year they branch, bloom and bear fruit.

Repaired raspberries are mown annually in the fall to the soil level. In the spring, annual shoots grow on it, in the middle of summer they bloom, and by autumn they give berries.

In one place, raspberries grow well and bear fruit for up to 15 years. Then you need to choose a new planting site and prepare the soil. If the soil is infertile, heavy, clayey, then it will have to be improved. For example, apply organic fertilizers for autumn digging - up to 8-10 kg of rotted feed or compost per 1 sq. M.

PLANTING RASPBERRY - BY RIBBONS OR BUSTS?

Let's say a few words about how to choose a raspberry seedling. It should have a shortened stem (stump) 20-30 cm long and at least thick near the root collar

10 mm, well-developed root system at least 15-20 cm long. Of course, the seedling must be healthy.

The best planting time is autumn, but you can do it in spring as well. Decide in advance on which system you will plant your raspberry tree. Traditionally, there are two options: tape and bush.

The belt system is considered more advanced and easier to maintain. If you decide to plant raspberries using this system, then place the seedlings in one or more rows according to the scheme of 2-3 plants per 1 linear meter. m row (after 50 cm). The distance between the rows is 2-2, 5 m. Plant raspberries in furrows or pits 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide.On sod-podzolic soil with an average supply of nutrients, add 8-10 kg of humus or compost to the hole, 150 -200 g of superphosphate and 70-80 g of potassium chloride. Instead of potash fertilizer, you can add 500-600 g of wood ash. Mix the fertilizers thoroughly with the soil and cover the root system with the mixture.

It is advisable to place the seedling 2-3 cm deeper than it grew in the nursery. That is, the growth bud on the rhizome must be underground. Compact the soil around the seedlings, and cut the stem at a height of 15-20 cm. Water (half a bucket for one plant), mulch with straw, peat or rotted sawdust.

If the groundwater in your area is close, then it is better to plant raspberries on high ridges or mounds.

HOW TO CHOOSE A VARIETY OF RASPBERRY

In each area, first of all, it is necessary to plant zoned varieties, that is, those that have passed the state test and are recommended for cultivation in this region. From these varieties, you can choose those that you like according to different characteristics - for example, winter hardiness, aroma and color of berries (red, yellow, black), size (from 3-4 g to 10-12 g), by ripening time (early , mid-season, late, remontant).

Of the most winter-hardy varieties, one can name such as Meteor, Spolokh, Beglyanka (these are early varieties), Kirzhach, Modesty, Maria (mid-season), Brigantina (late).

The largest-fruited varieties: Maroseyka, Cascade Bryansk, Aboriginal, Pride of Russia (early varieties), Arbat, Yellow giant, Fantasy (medium), Tarusa (late). Of the remontants, the most large-fruited varieties are the Firebird, Orange Miracle, and Penguin.

IT IS EASY TO CARE FOR RASPBERRY

Raspberry care is pretty simple. Perform the first spring tillage as early as possible so as not to damage the growing shoots. The depth of cultivation in the aisles is 10-12 cm, in the rows - 6-8 cm. Weed and loosen the soil during the summer as weeds appear.

Raspberries are very fond of feeding. If the soil is of medium fertility, then annually it is necessary to apply about 3-4 kg of organic fertilizers, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. m. Organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied in the fall, and those that contain a high percentage of nitrogen - in the spring.

Spread overripe manure over the soil surface and sprinkle with a thin layer of peat or soil to better retain nutrients and so as not to damage superficially active roots. If you notice poor plant growth, then in the first half of summer (in May-June) feed them with slurry (1 liter per 10 liters of water). Consumption rates of the solution - Yul for 8-10 plants. It is impossible to carry out such feeding at a later date, as this will delay growth, worsen the ripening of the shoots and thus reduce winter hardiness.

During the season, many gardeners and gardeners constantly fight weeds, weed raspberries and at the same time carry out loosening, which can damage the root system (in raspberries, it is located close to the surface). To make your work easier and not damage the plantings, be sure to mulch the raspberries. Lay straw in a row spacing of 10-15 cm. It can be spread in rows and aisles from the very spring, then by autumn it will rot and turn into fertilizer. Also, peat, straw manure can be used as a mulching material.

Watering can significantly increase raspberry yields. However, they must be carried out taking into account the weather conditions of the given year. According to the timing, watering is carried out before flowering, and then several times during the ripening of the berries. With each watering, about 30 liters of water per 1 sq. m. It is better to water along furrows 15-20 cm deep, made at a distance of 60-80 cm on the 01 row axis. After watering, cover the furrows and level the soil. Sprinklers for raspberries are of little use.

If the summer turned out to be dry, then in late autumn, when there is an intensive leaf fall, carry out water-charging watering so that the plants overwinter better.

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Reference by topic: Secrets of growing raspberries - prevention, pruning, feeding and autumn inspection and care

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RASPBERRY SUPPORTS

Raspberries need support so that the stems do not fall to the ground under the weight of the crop and do not break.

For bush cultivation in the center of the bush, drive in a stake with a height of 1-5 m. Tie the stems to it in early spring in two places: at a height of 2-50 cm from the ground and then 60-15 cm from the top. Also, with the bush growing method, you can use a fan garter to the stakes, when one part of the shoots is tied to one stake, and the second to the other. It turns out that the bush takes the form of a fan, for which it received such a name. With this method of formation, the most favorable lighting conditions are created, and the bushes bear fruit better.

With the tape method of growing raspberries, special trellises are built. Columns with a height of about 5 m are placed along the row every 6-2 m. On them, at a height of 50-60 cm and 120-140 cm, they stretch horizontally and fix a wire, which is used to tie up fruiting stems and young shoots. So that there is no strong thickening of the plants, the trellis can be built in a slightly different way. Attach two horizontal horizontal strips to each column: at a height of 50 cm a plank 40 cm long and at a height of 120 cm - 80 cm long.At the ends of the horizontal strips, pull 2 ​​parallel rows of wire, to which tie the raspberry stalks. Half of the stems to the wire on the right side, the other half to the left. So you create better lighting and fruiting conditions than when the shoots are tied up in the same plane. This will make it easier for you to harvest.

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See also: Varieties of remontant raspberries - reviews + description from the agronomist

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RASPBERRY CUTTING IN AUTUMN AND SPRING

Immediately after harvesting, it is necessary to cut from the fruiting stems to the level of the soil, without leaving hemp, and burn. Gardeners often leave dry branches until late fall or even next spring. However, pests and pathogens can hibernate on uncircumcised plants. In addition, they shade young plants and impede their growth.

Spring pruning is essential anyway. Early in the spring, right after the descent. snow, remove all broken, diseased and damaged stems, and leave the strongest for fruiting. There should be about 15 annual shoots per square meter. m.

It happens that the tops of the shoots freeze slightly due to the fact that they did not have time to ripen. Be sure to trim them to healthy tissue. Next, watch the growth of young growth. When the main part of young offspring reaches a height of 25-30 cm, leave no more than 40 shoots per 1 running meter. m row, remove the rest. These plants will overwinter and bear fruit the next year.

At the end of September, while the stems are still flexible, tilt them, tie them to adjacent ones, and pin them to the ground. Being under a layer of snow, raspberries tolerate frosts well up to 40 °. If the plants are not bent and fixed, then they will be above the surface of the snow and in this case they will freeze more. If necessary, cover the bushes with snow so that the shoots are completely covered.

Winter-hardy varieties for the winter can not be bent down.

If you do everything correctly, choose the appropriate variety, observe agrotechnical measures, then from one bush you can annually collect 4 kg of fragrant, sweet and healthy raspberries and even more.

© Author: S. Shelest

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Reference by topic: Planting raspberries in the summer - agronomist tips and methods

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