Growing cherries in the Vladimir region - varieties, planting and care
CHERRY VARIETIES FOR THE VLADIMIR REGION AND THE SECRETS OF CARING FOR THEM
We often hear that cherries do not bear fruit in our country, as a forest grows around. However, I do not agree with this argument, because our village Kanabyevo in the Vladimir region is also located inside a forest, and I do not complain about the yield of cherries. So what affects its yield? To help understand this issue, we begin to find out the reason.
CHERRY - PLANTING AND CARE FOR YIELD
First of all, the choice of the variety affects the yield. I have a preference for partially self-pollinated varieties. Secondly, the yield is always higher with cross-pollination, that is, at least 2, and preferably 3 varieties should grow on the site. Thirdly, since our area belongs to the zone of risky agriculture and in winter there are often frosts up to 35-39 °, the varieties must be highly winter-resistant. In spring, there are sharp changes in day and night temperatures, as a result of which the fruit buds are partially killed. Therefore, it is necessary to select varieties that are resistant to frost or late flowering in order to avoid a period of return cold. Fourthly, the acidity of the soil, which should be closer to neutral, is also very important for cherries. To do this, I definitely put 0 buckets of dolomite flour into the planting pit, which not only neutralizes the soil, but also serves as an excellent fertilizer. I also bring in at least 5 liter of ash, which is rich in many trace elements.
We have soil on the site in different places with an unequal structure. Cherry shows good results on light fertile soils and with sufficient moisture. So, on heavy clay soil, I definitely add a bucket of sand to the planting hole for looseness, and on sandy, on the contrary, a bucket of clay, so that after watering or rains, the moisture necessary for the good development of the root system that feeds the plant remains longer.
However, on low and damp soils with a close occurrence of groundwater, a good harvest of cherries cannot be expected, it is imperative to do drainage, plant trees on a mound (such as a ridge) so that excess moisture (spring water) from the trunks flows into the boundaries.
The place for the cherry trees should be well lit by the sun and preferably sheltered from the cold northeasterly winds.
I plant cherries at a distance of 2 m to 5 m, depending on the height of the selected variety. In the planting hole with a diameter of 4 cm and a depth of 50 cm, I always put only humus and in no case fresh manure. Also, be sure to put 80 cups of superphosphate and 2 cup of potassium sulfate. I do not indulge cherries with nitrogen fertilizers, only once after flowering I give foliar dressing on a leaf with a solution of manure-herbal infusion in a ratio of 1:2. Under mature trees in the crown radius, once every 10 years I scatter 3 bucket of dolomite flour, followed by loosening or mulching the soil. In early spring, at a temperature of 1 °, I spray the garden with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture for the prevention of diseases, then before and after flowering with a preparation based on malathion (malathion) from harmful insects. I carry out all procedures late in the evening so as not to kill beneficial insects, and according to the instructions.
If the cherry blossoms happened during the return cold, then I spray the trees with water late in the evening. The ice formed from the cold keeps the flowers from freezing.
I follow the watering in the summer. In order to avoid exposing the crown in August-September, I pinch the branches of one-year growth with a length of 25-40 cm, which also has a positive effect on increasing yields. In late September - early October, I carry out pre-winter water-charging irrigation of cherries (without fertilizers).
See also: Cherries and problems - diseases, self-fertility, fruiting and fruit chopping
CHERRY VARIETIES - MY REVIEWS AND DESCRIPTION
And now I want to briefly tell you about the varieties that our family liked the most. I make grafts on seedlings of Vladimirskaya cherry and Shub Inka, as these varieties are highly winter-resistant and resistant to podoprevanie. Shubinka is a medium-sized tree with a crown in the form of a panicle; it has been bearing fruit since 1996 every year, almost no growth. The yield is good, only the fruits are small and sour, but the compotes are excellent. For the last ten years, she began to suffer from moniliosis and coccomycosis, so the trees had to be re-grafted, some of them turned into a tree-garden.
In 2003, she acquired a partially self-fertile variety Molodezhnaya, medium-late ripening, which annually gives a good harvest of large, juicy and sweet maroon fruits. The variety is highly winter-resistant, disease-resistant. The tree is low. We consume fruits only fresh.
In 2012, I purchased Novella cuttings (VNI ISPK, Orel), and the next year we tasted large, dark cherry-colored fruits. Their pulp is juicy, tender, without astringency, excellent dessert taste. An early ripening variety, highly winter-resistant, partially self-pollinated, disease-resistant and high-yielding. The tree is vigorous, I annually do the autumn pinching of the branches.
Malinovka (VSTISP, Moscow), 2015 Medium-sized tree with a dense crown, began to bear fruit in the third year. The variety is highly winter-resistant, medium-yielding, disease-resistant. The fruits are large, dark red in color, juicy, with a good sour-sweet taste.
Rusinka (2003), selection VSTISP, Moscow. The tree is weak, yields good yields every year. Fruits are dark red, medium size, pleasant taste. The variety is late-ripening, highly winter-resistant, partially self-fertile.
Troitskaya (YUNIIPOK, Chelyabinsk), 2011 Highly winter-resistant, early-growing, large, red fruits, good taste, but suffered very much from moniliosis, I vaccinated another variety.
Turgenevka (VNIISPK, Oryol), 2012. The variety is early-growing and partially self-pollinated, pleased with the first fruits in the third year. Highly winter-resistant, disease-resistant, fruitful. The berries are large, maroon in color, with a good sour-sweet taste.
Variety Pamyati Vavilov (VNIIGiSPR named after I. V. Michurin, Michurinsk), 2014. Highly winter-resistant, disease-resistant, high-yielding. The tree is medium-sized, medium-sized fruits, dark red and burgundy, juicy, excellent dessert taste.
Since 2014, cherry varieties Zhukovskaya, Rovesnitsa, Meteor, Garland, Nadezhda have been tested. While winter hardiness fails.
There are also ducks in my garden (a hybrid of a cherry with a cherry).
Spartan (2014). I was vaccinated on Shubinka, the first fruits were received in the third year. The variety is highly winter-resistant, fruitful, disease-resistant, of medium vigor. Fruits are dark red in color, large, medium ripening. The pulp is very juicy, tender, of good sour-sweet taste, with a strong cherry aroma.
Ivanovna (2016). Inoculations in the crown showed the first fruits in the third year. The variety is winter-hardy, productive, disease-resistant. The fruits are large, dark red, ripening in early July. The pulp is tender, aromatic, with a good sour-sweet taste.
Single fruits were shown by the varieties Kormilitsa, Khodosa, Fesanna (vaccinations in 2016).
Of course, there are cherries in my garden. In 2001, at the All-Russian Exhibition Center in Moscow, I had a chance to purchase Fatezh cherries (VSTISP, Moscow). Of course, I immediately vaccinated: I cut the cuttings from the seedling and grafted it on my seedlings from the Vladimir cherry. The variety turned out to be highly winter-resistant, disease-resistant. The tree began to bear fruit in the fourth year. Fruiting intermittently, most likely due to freezing of the fruit buds. The fruits are large, beautiful, yellow with a blush, excellent dessert taste.
We are very satisfied with the Leningradskaya Black Cherry variety (2003), bred at the Pavlovsk Experimental Station of the VIR. I also grafted cuttings onto my Vladimir cherry seedlings. The variety has shown itself to be quite winter-hardy, disease-resistant. In severe frosts, the places where skeletal branches left the trunk suffered. But this is easily removable. In late autumn (in November), I began to cover these places with a creamy clay solution and repeated the procedure in the spring, in places where I found cracks. As a result, the clasterosporium disease completely disappeared. The trees began bearing fruit in the 3-4th year. The fruits are very large, almost black, juicy, with excellent dessert taste.
Iput (All-Russian Research Institute of Lupina, Bryansk), 2001 The variety is highly winter-resistant, disease-resistant, fruitful, partially self-fertile (annual fruiting). Fruits are large, from maroon to black, very good sour-sweet taste.
We are very satisfied with the Revna variety (All-Russian Research Institute of Lupina, Bryansk), 2014. Fruits are large, maroon color, excellent dessert taste, medium late ripening. Medium-sized, highly winter-resistant, began bearing fruit in the fourth year. The variety is resistant to diseases, high-yielding. Every year I did a pinching of annual branches in the fall to reduce the compactness of the crown and accelerate fruiting.
The variety Orlovskaya Yantarnaya (2012) showed good winter hardiness. The tree is weak, began bearing fruit in the fifth year. The berries are yellowish-amber in color, with a pleasant dessert taste.
We tasted the varieties Bryanochka, Veda, Rechitsa last year.
And of course, in the topic of cherries and cherries, one cannot but mention the birds. For the last five years, flocks of birds began to fly from the forest and deal with the harvest at lightning speed. Some peck at the flesh, others, on the contrary - some bones, and the flesh is lying on the ground. So far, the most reliable protection is the shelter of plants with lutrasil from the moment when the fruits begin to ripen. From above, the birds clearly see ripe fruits, and if they try, then do not expect good.
See also: Duke (chereshnevishnia) and cherry - growing in the Vladimir region
© Author: V. OKHOTNIKOVA Vladimir region
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There was a cherry in my garden - I did not plant it. It bloomed every spring, but did not bear fruit. I don’t remember who advised me, but the fall before last, she poured 2 buckets of lime under the tree and said well with a cherry: “If you, my beauty, don’t give fruit, you’ll have to cut it down.” Last year, the cherry gave such a long-awaited harvest. How could this happen?
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From time to time we receive such letters, where everything was decided by a “conversation” with a tree. But let's not discuss it. Opinions here can be very different. But the introduction of lime is another matter. After all, lime reduces the acidity of the soil, and on acidic soils, cherries almost do not bear fruit. True, 2 buckets under one tree is a lot.
As deoxidizers, not only slaked or quicklime is added, but also ground limestone, dolomitic limestone, chalk, shell rock, wood ash. Doses depend on the acidity, mechanical composition of the soil and the crop being grown. For example, doses of ground limestone can range from 100-150 g/sq. m on sandy and sandy loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction up to 1-1,4 kg / sq. m on clay, strongly acidic soils.
It is better to apply lime materials 1-2 years before planting or in front of it, evenly spreading over the entire area. You can re-lime only after 5-7 years.
When choosing a material for soil deoxidation, consider its neutralizing ability. For chalk, it is taken as 100%, for quicklime - 120%, dolomite flour - 90%, ash -80% or less, depending on what it is obtained from. So on strongly acidic soil it is better to add lime, and on slightly acidic soil, ash can also be added.
Lime as a deoxidizer is an excellent material. It is inexpensive, small, which means it will work quickly. To neutralize acidic medium loamy soils, 300-600 g / sq. m, lime, depending on the acidity (the more acidic, the greater the dosage).
But do not forget that the dose depends on the composition of the soil. The lighter the soil, the less lime is required.