GROWING AND CARE OF ROOM ROSE IN A POT

Since I have neither my own summer cottage, nor even a land plot, I cannot grow roses in the open field. But I always dreamed of having at least a small rose bush at home. I often received luxurious bouquets as a gift (I work as a teacher at school) and several times tried to prolong the life of the queen of flowers. Sometimes it worked out, and the rooted plant was sent to friends at the dacha. True, I did not dare to buy myself a so-called indoor rose in a pot for a long time, I was not sure that I could keep it. But one day the disciples presented such a plant.

FAILURES ALSO LEARN

My first potted rose was pale pink in color with many unblown buds. Day 3 she stood on the windowsill, and I was deciding what to do with her further. When the substrate in the pot dried out thoroughly, trying to water the plant, I saw that the soil absorbs moisture very poorly. The substrate, as it seemed to me then, consisted mostly of peat, and I immediately rushed to replant the plant. She pulled out an earthen lump from the pot, tried to separate and thoroughly clean the roots, and then, in addition, rinsed them with water. I disassembled the bush into separate plants (there were three of them) and planted them in different pots: two - in a special purchased soil for a rose, and the third - in the ground, which I collected in the front garden near the house.

I decided that I would experiment, experimentally check what conditions the queen prefers. I carried out the transplant very carefully and looked forward to how after a while I would become the owner of three beautiful rose bushes at once. It was not so. Not a single plant survived. All the roses died one after another, despite all my efforts to revive them. Neither feeding, nor contrasting irrigation helped (I heard somewhere that water of different temperatures can bring a plant back to life), nor even the illumination of a specially purchased fluorescent lamp. The buds never blossomed, and all the foliage gradually dried up ...

The next potted rose lived longer in my apartment. Taught by bitter experience, I decided not to disturb the plant with a transplant, transferred it into a slightly larger pot, adding a little new soil to it. The rose faded, and in the spring it began to release new shoots. But after the "vacation" in the loggia, she was attacked by a spider mite, which I did not immediately notice. As a result, the pest killed not only my beauty, but also spread to other indoor flowers. The struggle was long, but unfortunately, it was not possible to defend the rose.

Having lost two rose bushes, I nevertheless gained some experience and began to better deal with the whims of "Her Majesty." This allowed me, over time, to realize my old dream - to create a small rose garden in indoor conditions. Of course, I do not consider myself an advanced rose grower, but I will gladly share some observations and tips, I hope they will help someone.

CORRECT CARE FOR ROOM ROSE

My mistake, which led to the death of the first plant (or rather, three roses growing in one pot), was an incorrect and untimely transplant. By the way, this is a very common advice: transplant a potted rose into new soil as soon as possible, and before that remove all the flowers on it, shorten the shoots strongly, almost by half, and cut off all the leaves, leaving only the densest ones. Such a radical "haircut" is made, allegedly so that the plant does not expend the energy that it will need to get used to new conditions.

But the fact is that the energy has already been expended - the buds are laid, and the manufacturer has provided for flowering, thoroughly "filling" the rose with the necessary dressings. Therefore, I think that you should not deprive yourself of the pleasure of admiring the opening flowers, it is better not to touch the plant at all for 7-10 days, let it adapt a little to the climate of the apartment, cut off only faded buds. But at this time, you need to keep the rose away from other plants, it must go through quarantine. Very often, pests and diseases get into the house with shop flowers, which is very difficult to get rid of.

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See also: Feeding for indoor plants with their own hands - how and what to do?

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I advise you to start the transplant not earlier than in a week, but preferably in 10 days. It is unlikely that it will be possible to disassemble the bush into individual plants, since their roots are closely intertwined. If you still want to plant the roses in separate pots, you will have to cut the earthen ball with a sharp knife.

The old substrate must be shaken off the roots, but it is not worth rinsing them under running water, as is often advised, after such a procedure the plants get sick longer and take root worse. I did different things - I planted the roses separately, and transplanted everything together, and did not notice that due to the "competition" in one pot, the flowering was greatly weakened. But of course, all transplanted roses must be healthy, with no signs of root rot.

Which pot to choose is a matter of taste. It is more convenient for me to grow roses in plastic pots: by changing their weight, you can easily determine that it is time to water the plant. As for the soil mixture, I compose it myself - 2 parts each of humus and peat, 0,5 parts of sand and a little wood ash. At the bottom of the pot, I definitely arrange a drainage layer with a thickness of 1-2 cm.

In winter, the temperature in my apartment is 22-23 °, the roses are on the lightest windowsill, I cover the battery so that the hot air does not flow on them. Some release new shoots and do not stop flowering (although it is not as abundant as in summer), others stop growing and prepare to "rest".

When the central heating is turned on, I water the plants twice a week through the sump so that they can draw as much water as they need. I place the pot with a rose in a deep planter, which I fill with water at room temperature for about a quarter. After 20-30 minutes, the pot becomes heavier, which means that the rose is "drunk" enough and needs to be placed on a dry tray - water should not accumulate at the roots.

I feed it once every 10 days using a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants containing potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. If a rose is going to "rest", stops flowering and stops growing, I exclude feeding, but I cut the watering and pour water just at the root. When there is no severe frost and the temperature in the loggia is kept at the level of 7-10 °, I send the rose there for the rest time. But sometimes this is not possible, and the rose remains on the windowsill, then I just move the pot closer to the window pane. The main thing is not to force the plant to rest - do not cut off young shoots and leaves.

I don’t spray roses in winter, as I often use a humidifier. Be sure to remove faded buds. During the winter, the roses stretch out strongly (after all, the lack of lighting affects), and in the spring they will have to be pruned. I shorten the shoots by about a third, leaving 5-6 buds on the stem. It is important to cut above the bud that looks outward of the stem, so that the new shoot will not grow into the inside of the bush. I read that roses, when pruned, emit a protective substance, but for reliability I still process the cuts with garden pitch. I also thin out the foliage inside the bush, do not tear off the leaves, but cut them off, leaving a petiole with a bud.

I transplant roses annually, in early spring, as they bloom a lot, the land is quickly depleted. At the same time, I increase the volume of the pot every 2-3 years, focusing on the size of the root system.

I propagate roses by cuttings with 2-3 buds and a heel. I plant them directly in the soil under glass or a plastic bag. At first I keep it in the shade for several days, then I bring it out into the light. After 3-4 weeks, the cuttings take root.

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Reference by topic: How to keep a miniature gift rose in a pot

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ROSE ROOM CARE - VIDEO

© Author: E. BYKOVA Ryazan

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