Tomatoes. Care from A to Z (Tomsk)
Contents ✓
- ✓ PREPARATION OF TOMATO SEEDS FOR SOWING
- ✓ TOMATO SEEDLING CARE
- ✓ TERMS OF LANDING TOMATO SEEDLINGS
- ✓ TOMATOES ABSOLUTELY WITHOUT PHYTOPHTORA!
- ✓ TO GROW ROOTS IN POMDIOR, BUT HOW?
- ✓ A SUCCESSFUL WAY TO PLANTING TOMATOES
- ✓ TOMATO VARIETIES FOR SIBERIA
- ✓ SEEDLING OF TOMATOES AND EXCESSIVE WORK PLEASE NOTE.
- ✓ HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - CARE FROM A TO Z ON VIDEO
MY EXPERIENCE IN GROWING AND CARE OF TOMATOES
I have been growing tomatoes for forty years. Over the years, I have become convinced that, in comparison with other crops, tomatoes require much more attention, time and labor. I want to tell you how I cope with this task and what I consider the most important. And you write, agree with me or not.
PREPARATION OF TOMATO SEEDS FOR SOWING
Before sowing, I always disinfect both my own and purchased seeds. I warm them in a thermos with hot (50-53 °) water for 30 minutes, then soak them in a growth stimulator solution for 6 hours, after which I immerse them in a solution of antifungal biological products.
The next important step is soil preparation. I start preparing seedling soil in the summer: I liked N.F. Maximova cook it in advance. I put garden soil, humus, ash, sand and stale sawdust treated with manure infusion into the bath in layers. To disinfect the soil, I add an EM preparation. I mix everything, cover with a film. In the fall, I transfer the soil into bags and leave it on the loggia. A month before sowing, I bring it into a warm room, add an EM preparation to the warmed soil and keep it in closed bags for two weeks.
I prepare the soil in the greenhouse in the fall. I introduce humus, add fertilizer containing potassium and magnesium, dig it up, sow it with mustard and water it with a solution of an EM preparation and biofungicides with hay bacillus and trichoderma.
I sow the seeds in two steps: in early March I sow late varieties, in two weeks - early ones. I always take twice as many seeds as I need. When picking, I choose the strongest seedlings.
Y. Allenova in the article “How many seeds do you need?” complained about the high cost of seeds. Yes, they are not cheap, especially hybrids, but I only plant varieties and use my own seeds, so they cost me nothing.
TOMATO SEEDLING CARE
With the advent of shoots, be sure to turn on the backlight. Due to the lack of lighting, the fruit buds on the plant are laid later, and the seedlings are pulled out. In this case, I water with infusion of ash and a special preparation that slows down the growth of seedlings and enhances root growth.
When picking seedlings, I lower the seedling into the hole to the cotyledon leaves, water it under the root and fall asleep the stem. The next watering is not earlier than in a week: excessive soil moisture is one of the reasons for the appearance of a black leg.
I water the seedlings only with melt water! I used to collect ice at the construction of an ice town and melt it, now I collect water from rain barrels in five-liter bottles in late autumn and leave it on the loggia for the winter. In the spring for irrigation I get two in one: rainwater and melted water.
I insulate the window sills with heat-insulating material, as well as the loggia when I put seedlings there.
When planting seedlings, I pay special attention to soil temperature, because both the time of planting and the method of planting depend on it. Before planting, I drop a thermometer in the garden to the depth of the shovel bayonet, after two hours I check: the temperature should not fall below 12 °.
Cold soil can cause root rot or plant death.
In the first years of my gardening, two years in a row I lost planted seedlings in the northeast corner of the greenhouse. When I realized that the soil warms up there more slowly, I began to dig holes in the greenhouse in advance to improve its warming.
TERMS OF LANDING TOMATO SEEDLINGS
Now about the timing of planting seedlings. In early spring, when there is still snow outside the greenhouse, and it has already melted inside, I sow radishes and greens - lettuce, arugula, spinach, dill. By mid-May, the greens can be selectively harvested, but most of them still need to be grown, and the planting time is already running out. When is it here to dig holes and wait for them to warm up! The beds are still occupied by greenery, and under it the soil warms up worse. For this reason, I was always late with planting seedlings, and they outgrew.
But this year it dawned on me. I dug holes before sowing greens, covered them with five-liter cropped bottles and sowed greens and radishes between them. It turned out great: the greens grow freely, and the tomatoes can be planted in ready-made holes that have warmed up well under the bottles.
See also: Growing tomatoes at home, on the windowsill - from A to Z
TOMATOES ABSOLUTELY WITHOUT PHYTOPHTORA!
I dig deep holes, much larger than a clod of earth with roots. Before planting, I put compost there, spill it with warm water, cover the roots of the planted seedlings with humus and compost only 2-3 cm above the root neck and again water with warm water. After 10-12 days, I water the planted seedlings with a superphosphate extract to improve root growth, fill the hole to the top and pile it up. I dig in between the plants one and a half liter bottles with a cut bottom, neck down. In the future, I water and feed only in bottles. I mulch the earth with sawdust mixed with manure infusion.
I feed with infusions: at the beginning of summer - herbal, dung, bread, during the fruiting period - once or twice with ash. Every two weeks I water with a solution of the EM preparation. I carry out foliar top dressing with microelements, boric acid, as well as preventive spraying with biofungicides. To prevent blossom end rot at the beginning of fruiting, I water with calcium nitrate.
Phytophthora in the greenhouse does not happen even in rainy summers. Thanks to watering in bottles, it is always dry in it, and this is the main obstacle for phytophthora.
TO GROW ROOTS IN POMDIOR, BUT HOW?
The yield of tomatoes largely depends on the state of the root system. Even earlier, in some articles, I read that the roots of seedlings in containers are intertwined with each other during a long seedling period, and some of them die off. I was convinced of this when removing tomatoes from the greenhouse in the fall - the roots from the seedling coma almost did not grow. The main growth of the roots came from the stem, sprinkled with earth after planting. Therefore, it makes sense to hill the steol or deep plant with hilling.
Readers have suggested many ways of planting, leading to the growth of additional roots. One of them is planting with additional containers, when a container without a bottom is put on the planted seedlings and gradually filled with earth. I planted for several years using five-liter bottles cut off on both sides. The growth of roots in them was limited by the walls of the bottles, so the roots were small. A greater effect can be achieved by using buckets or tanks, but this will additionally require a lot of land.
And one more "but": the growth of roots in additional containers leads to a slowdown in fruiting and fruit ripening.
Another way of planting with growing roots is found in letters - planting lying down. It is well suited for overgrown seedlings. With this method, the stem is placed in a shallow groove, covered with earth and gives a mass of adventitious roots. The plant grows powerful, gives a good harvest. But at the same time, the entire planting area has to be watered, which creates additional humidity in the greenhouse.
Significantly enhances the root system of grafting on an additional root. In this case, two plants are spliced together, then the top of one of them is removed, and the other remains on two roots. Although a good idea, after two attempts to apply this method, I found it too laborious, although perhaps I just did not have the patience.
Reference by topic: Non-irrigated cultivation of tomatoes from A to Z
A SUCCESSFUL WAY TO PLANTING TOMATOES
Chance prompted me to another way of landing. After grafting onto an additional root, I put the cut tops into the water. They gave roots, I planted them, and in open ground and in a completely inappropriate place. And these brodfish surpassed their greenhouse relatives in growth, bush power, yield and fruit size!
I found a description of the method of planting the tops in the LD articles. Zheleznova Japanese Tomatoes. I started planting in this way with several bushes, and this year I cut off the tops of all late varieties. I didn’t cut the early ones, because I noticed that the fruits of the bushes from the cut tops ripen later.
Bushes with this method of planting are much more productive, the fruits are larger, and the seedlings do not outgrow. You just need to guess with the trimming time. The roots at the tops in the water grow one to two weeks, and I plant them in seedlings two to three weeks before planting in the ground. Therefore, you need to cut the tops about a month before planting in the greenhouse. I planted them with roots and immediately in the garden, but they took root longer than those that were grown in seedlings.
I form the grown plants into one or two stems, stepchild every week, otherwise you can get the jungle and the minimum yield. I remove the lower leaves gradually to the second or third brush, leave above. And so that the fruits are better tied, I arrange drafts - I keep all the doors open.
TOMATO VARIETIES FOR SIBERIA
I plant about 20 varieties, every year I add one or two new ones. I make seeds myself, I select large fruits from the best plants. For many years I have been planting Sugar Pudovichok, Eternal Call, Bull's forehead. Recently, Spetsnaz (photo 1) and Batyanya (photo 2) were added to them, which I liked with their taste and productivity.
I was recently surprised by the early varieties of Pink Honey (photo 3), the Siberian Giant, the Heavyweight of Siberia. Perhaps the early planting had an effect, or the holes warmed up well, or maybe all together, but the fruits on them began to ripen en masse two weeks earlier than usual, despite the cold summer.
Sometimes things happen with new products. I bought the seeds of the Marshal Pobeda variety, on the bag there is a large round fruit. Tall bushes with pepper-shaped fruits have grown, a clear regrading. I liked the taste of the fruits, took seeds from them, called Pobeda for myself (photo 4).
A few years ago I bought seeds of the Pisces variety from one company from the Zodiac Signs series - the choice fell on it, because it is my sign. Tall bushes with large round fruits and bushes of medium height with heart-shaped fruits have grown. Both turned out to be sweet, and this is the main criterion for me. Collected seeds from both. I left the name Pisces as a round one, and called the heart-shaped ones the Heart of a Fish (photo 5).
I read reviews about the variety One Hundred Puds. Bought some seeds and planted them. The bushes are tall, powerful, productive, the fruits are large, up to 600 g, fleshy (photo 6), but they are inferior in taste to sweet varieties. And last year I bought the Puzata Khata variety - again because of the reviews. The variety is productive, the bushes are powerful, and the fruits in taste and shape are the twins of the Sto Pudov variety (photo 7).
Much more can be written about tomatoes. I advise beginner gardeners not to grab their heads about the many nuances of growing tomatoes. Experience and opportunities will come with time. In the meantime, it is worth slowly sowing the seeds, growing and planting seedlings, if possible watering and waiting for the harvest. Many gardeners, especially working ones, do just that. And tomatoes are not a capricious culture and, despite adverse conditions and in gratitude for minimal care, they will still give a harvest. Which is why I love them.
SEEDLING OF TOMATOES AND EXCESSIVE WORK PLEASE NOTE.
I read how seedlings of peppers and tomatoes are planted: they dive, then they are transplanted again into large containers, starting the process around March 3. I do it differently. At the beginning of April, on the 5-6th, I plant two or three dry seeds directly into half-liter plastic glasses from sour cream, half filled with soil. When shoots appear and grow to the top of the container, I leave the strongest sprout, remove the rest and add soil to the edge of the cup. For a week, the plants freeze, grow roots along the stem, and then actively begin to grow green tops. Thus, I do not spend a whole month and still get large seedlings in April: the seedlings are strong, do not stretch. Conclusion: do not torture yourself or the plants!
The main root is not damaged, because there is no thickening, the seedlings are not sick with black leg and fungal diseases, and also remain healthy during transplantation. Flower brushes appear at the same time. I don’t fertilize with anything before landing on the site, all the food is already in the ground. When it gets warm outside, I plant seedlings in the holes, where I pour feathers, ash and ground burnt bones (phosphate). During the season, I fertilize with fermented nettles with grass and ash, be sure to mulch the ground. I water when planting and then two more times if the summer is dry, because the preserved central root will find water in the soil itself. The fruits of tomatoes with such watering do not crack. Friends, do not do unnecessary work! © Author: Rauza TETERINA, Irkutsk.
© Author: Valentina Alexandrovna SAGEEEV Tomsk
See also: Tomatoes - growing and care FROM A TO Z
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - CARE FROM A TO Z ON VIDEO
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How to "speed up" tomatoes?
How slowly our tomatoes ripen! What to do, the north - it is the north. Is there any way to speed up the maturation process? Surely there are some methods.