Diseases of LEAVES AND STEMS OF ROSES - name, description, signs and treatment
WHAT DOES ROSE LEAVES AND STEMS SICK
The more beautiful the flower, the more enemies it has. However, any disease can be cured if detected in time. Unfortunately, roses most often suffer from our neglect.
ROSE LEAVES DISEASES
Powdery mildew on roses
Signs: reddish-brown spots, deformation of young leaves, white cobweb coating, mosaic coloration, leaf death.
Causes: dense plantings, lack of light, excess moisture and nitrogen, lack of potassium.
Fight: spraying with foundationazole (benlat) - 0%, bayleton - 2%, topsin-nom-M - 0%, caratan - 1%, copper-soap preparation. Every 0-1 days - watering and spraying with a 0-day infusion of mullein (1: 15).
Downy mildew on roses
Signs: the same spots as with powdery mildew (located most often along the central vein of the leaf).
Reasons: cool and rainy weather.
Fight: treatment with zinc and copper-containing preparations: cuprozan (0%), ditan M-4 (45%), Bordeaux liquid.
Timely top dressing of bushes with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
Signs: yellow-orange bumps, then spots of the same color, pustules in the lower part of the leaves, yellowing and dying of foliage.
Causes: high humidity, especially during the initial growing season, which contributes to the emergence of rust fungi.
Fight: pruning affected shoots, cleaning leaves. In autumn, treatment with 3% iron sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.
Black patch of roses
Signs: black spots with a diameter of 5-15 mm, merging with each other. Subsequent death of the leaves.
Reasons: water getting on the leaves during watering, excessive humidity, poor ventilation of the flower garden, sharp temperature fluctuations.
Control: removal of infected leaves and shoots, spraying with copper- and zinc-containing preparations, as well as captan and foundationazole. In autumn, before hilling and shelter, treatment of bushes and soil with iron or copper sulfate (3%).
See also: Diseases of roses - photo and description
gray mold on roses
Signs: browning of the stems from top to bottom, the appearance of a fluffy smoky coating.
Reasons: high humidity.
Fight: limit watering, give air access to the flower garden. Remove all affected organs. Spray with fungicides (euparen, foundationol 0,2% each) every 10-14 days until the gray plaque disappears. Apply fertilizers containing manganese.
Signs: reddish-brown spots, darker in the center.
Reasons: excessive humidity and poor ventilation under shelters during the dormant period.
Control: removal of affected plants. This is very important, because the fungus - the causative agent of the "burn" - easily passes to raspberries and blackberries.
Reference by topic: 4 incurable rose diseases - signs, symptoms and prevention
TIP: ROSE BROTH
I want to share how I care for roses. The water in which I wash my meat products, collect and water roses with it, then they grow very well. That's what I've been doing for 12 years. Near each bush I plant 3 bulbs of onions - from aphids. And if aphids appeared, I take 1 liter of water, 1 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 1 tsp. drinking soda and spray once a week. I use the same remedy for rust and powdery mildew.
© Author: L.I. CHERNOV Moscow
NOTE-2: THE BEST ROSE IS CLIMBING
I am a gardener with seven years of experience. My pride is numerous flowers and shrubs, there is also a small alpine hill surrounded by three pretty Christmas trees. And my roses grow - bush and climbing, peonies, delphiniums, lupins, bluebells, daisies, hostas and petunias. Of the shrubs - jasmine, hydrangea, astilba, honeysuckle, clematis. Of the six acres, three are fragrant and pleasing to the eye.
But I am especially proud of my climbing rose.
She is very elegant, every summer spoils me with her beauty.
Climbing rose does not require special care.
In summer, it is enough to water and fertilize abundantly. In the fall, when the flowering period is over, cut off the old branches, leaving them a meter and a half long, bend gently to the ground (only in dry weather!) And cover with boards, slate or spruce branches that you have in the country.
And in early spring, when the temperature exceeds 10 °, you can open it. In the spring, as the climbing rose grows, it must be tied up.
I hope my advice is useful to summer residents and readers. Thank you very much!
© Author: L. Petrova, Samara
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