Propagation of roses - Cuttings or seedlings?
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HOW TO PROPAGATE ROSES WITH CUTTINGS FROM ANNUAL SHOOTS?
It is difficult to find a site where at least one rose bush is grown. Therefore, in our mail there are so many letters dedicated to the care of these beautiful flowers, and original ideas.
How many times I bought rose bushes, but for some reason they do not grow well. And so, having learned that you can propagate roses yourself, I went to a specialist and asked how it was done. It turns out that there is nothing complicated. At the end of August, we cut cuttings from well-ripened annual shoots so that each has four buds, and cut the leaves that have not yet crumbled. Under the lower kidney we make an oblique cut, above the upper one - a straight line by 1 cm.
We dig up the earth where we will plant the cuttings to the depth of the bayonet of a shovel and fill it well with organic fertilizers. Sprinkle sand on top so that the water does not evaporate so quickly and the soil is loose. We plant the cuttings on the day of cutting in rows after 15-20 cm, in a row after 8-10 cm. We deepen so that two buds are in the ground, and two are at the top. Pour abundantly with warm water.
Now we make a frame of thick wire and stretch the plastic film, on three sides we cover it tightly with earth, and on the fourth - lightly, since the cuttings will have to be watered several more times before frost. When frost sets in, we tightly cover the fourth side with earth. In winter, when severe frosts come, I come to the dacha and throw snow on top of the film. There should be no holes in the film, then the cuttings will overwinter perfectly. In the spring, when the positive temperature is set, I lift the film and very carefully loosen the ground. By this time, the shoots on the cuttings already reach 5-10 cm in height.
When good summer weather sets in, we slightly open the film for the day or remove it if it's hot. We do this in the afternoon, when it is not so hot and the sun does not warm much. We remove the first buds that have appeared so as not to deplete the cuttings. When the roses are hardened, remove the film and frame.
We transplant roses to a permanent place in the spring of next year. For the winter, we cover the seedlings with earth. With this method, the cuttings take root by about 70-80%. It is a pity for the dead cuttings, but even when buying seedlings, not everyone takes root. That's all wisdom. Whoever decides to grow roses in this way, I wish you good luck.
ROSES FROM A SHAFT - VIDEO
© Author: Elena Shevchenko
Reference by topic: Autumn cuttings of roses - agronomist tips + proprietary solution for rooting
NOTE: REPRODUCTION OF ROSES - FROM A BOUQUET ... TO A FLOWER
I want to share the idea of growing roses from a bouquet.
After all, you really want the wonderful pink bouquet that was presented to us the day before to stand in the water as long as possible, but ... alas. And then one day I looked at a withered bouquet of roses and did not throw them away. I came up with the idea to grow a rose bush on my site from a wilted bouquet, more precisely, from the cuttings of these roses, or, more simply, from their stems.
To do this, I cut the stems: from above - at the last leaf, from below - at the first outer bud (later roots should appear here). The stem was very long and I cut it in half
thus forming two cuttings. A mixture of soddy soil, sand and leaf humus, taken in equal parts, was poured into a flower pot. Plentifully watered the soil with a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate so that the cuttings would not rot when rooting. I planted it at a depth of 5-6 cm and covered it with glass liter jars, having previously treated them with dichlorvos. I put the pots on the window, where there is no direct sunlight, watered with water at room temperature. A month later, the first roots appeared, the buds began to grow. Removed banks. After the fourth leaf appeared, I pinched the young sprouts, with the exception of one trial. Six months later, when the left shoot bloomed, I cut off the flowers above the first leaf (the cut should not be done too low). And in the spring, young bushes, along with a clod of earth, were planted in the garden.
That's all. My roses are blooming beautifully.
© Author: Yulia ZHEREBTSOVA
Reference by topic: How to plant a rose from a bouquet
HOW TO ROOT A ROSE FROM A BOUQUET - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Repeated flowering of roses and its extension - tips
- Blue and blue roses - varieties and my reviews about them
- Fertilizing roses with a deficiency of elements
- Caring for roses from spring to late autumn - a rose collector's guide
- Preparing roses for wintering in the summer - a list of care measures!
- Rosin rosette (photo)
- Do-it-yourself rose garden in the Moscow region - my experience of growing roses in the Moscow region
- How to plant roses - rose grower's tips
- How to reanimate a rose after removing the cover for the winter?
- Preparing roses for wintering in August!
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A few years ago I bought two rose seedlings and planted them on the site in the spring. There is no problem with the first one. It blooms profusely and tolerates winters well without shelter. The second one initially took root poorly, was weak. In the second year, he gave out lashes that crawled along the ground, like ground covers (although the seller did not say about this feature). So I did not wait for flowers from him. Is it possible to make the "capricious" bloom or is it easier to remove the bush?
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- It is quite possible that the grafted rose variety died, and only the rootstock remained. I would recommend removing the hive. If you decide to leave, then try to establish a support and send shoots to it. The lashes will take a vertical position and, quite possibly, will bloom.
The rose may also not bloom due to the death of flower buds (for various reasons) and an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
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I want to propagate a climbing rose, but I don't know the easiest way to do it. Please tell me.
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The easiest way to propagate a climbing rose is by horizontal layering. To do this, in the fall or spring, a strong shoot is chosen and a groove 10-15 cm wide and 15-20 cm deep is dug from its base to the side. The bottom of the groove is loosened with the addition of humus or leaf compost. On that part of the shoot, which they intend to lay on the bottom, several cuts are made in the bark under the kidneys for the fastest formation of roots.
After the shoot is laid, pinned with wooden or metal hooks to the soil, and its apical part is set vertically above the ground, tied to a peg. The trench is covered with soil.
During the summer, the soil is not allowed to dry out, watered if necessary. By next spring, the shoot will root. It is separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.