Planting and initial care for conifers in the Middle lane - to get started!
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HOW TO PLANT A FIR AND PINE IN THE MIDDLE LANE SO THEY GROW
If you have ever traveled across our country from north to south, you have noticed that coniferous trees grow in a colder and wetter climate, although in the Penza region I saw sunny pine forests on the sand.
I planted my first pine tree in 1974, I took a seedling from the timber industry. Now it's over the roof.
Many times I tried to grow pines from seeds - it did not work out. And in 2001 she brought three spruces from the northern taiga, about 2, 3 and 5 years old. On September 1, I planted two in the garden and one, the youngest, in a pot. I planted a three-year-old in a shady place, under the trees, and a five-year-old - in a semi-sunny (sun 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon, the rest of the time - through the trees)
I advise everyone to pay attention to the following when planting spruce:
1. The roots should be parallel to the soil surface (we plant in holes, straighten all the roots, sprinkle with earth on top).
In garden trees, the roots are lowered down.
2. During the first three summers, trees should be shaded from the direct sun during the day (with a rag, newspaper, bushes).
3. Conifers love frequent root watering and spraying. I still water them twice a week in the summer.
Reference by topic: Blue Spruce - growing and reproduction
Other conditions: soil - black soil plus sand, size of holes, top dressing - as for garden trees. But it is not necessary to dig up the earth and weed weeds under conifers so as not to damage the roots. I put small chalk stones under the trees, as in a nature reserve. This year, the trees have given abundant growth, but spruce grows better where there is more sun.
It has tripled in seven years. And the other, which she planted in chiaroscuro - only one and a half to two times. Apparently, it is better to plant conifers under those branches and bushes that you plan to remove in 3 years.
The tree in a pot grew in my room for two years. Conditions: cool in winter, humidity. In the summer I cleaned from the open sun. Once a year, a "transshipment" is necessary, that is, planting in a pot of a larger diameter (two fingers), without destroying the clod of earth with roots. It is impossible to plant a small seedling immediately in a large bucket.
Two years ago I brought three pines from the forest, about 2-3 years old. The youngest is still growing in a pot at home, she planted two in the garden in May with the same conditions as they ate. The summer of 2007 turned out to be hot, in the very heat (35-37).
See also: Conifers for the garden (photo) compact, weeping, creeping and columnar
For 5 days I could not come to the dacha for watering, and the younger pine “burned out” from the heat, could not stand it. Although I tried to “drink” her later. The older pine was sick the first summer, the edges of the needles turned yellow, in spring the growth was weak. I just watered it regularly, plentifully. This year it has given a strong increase, which means it has been accepted.
This spring, spruce and pine trees of two or three meters in height appeared in our city, in pots and tubs for sale. I feel sorry for the trees - they will not be accepted, they actually have no roots. I don't understand the people who ruined them so stupidly.
Dear friends, grow conifers in your garden for your own joy and for their healing aroma, but get ready to “baby” them for two years until they take root.
By the way
In your garden, you can grow a coniferous tree with different needle colors: on the one hand, it will be pure green, and on the other, golden.
Take two different varieties of the same species: for example, thuja Crustata and thuja Golden Smaragd. On one side of each tree, you need to cut all the branches. With the resulting bare trunks, you need to tightly connect the trees (tie) and plant them together in one planting hole. As a result, a thuja will grow, which will have a different color of needles from different sides.
CONIFEROUS PLANTS ON THE AREA - THE SECRET OF CARE
CONIFERS ON THE SITE - PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
When I was organizing my dacha area, in addition to fruit and berry trees and shrubs, I decided to plant decorative ones. First of all I thought about conifers. They require minimal care, but are beautiful all year round. Soon, in the fall, in one of the forestry nurseries, he purchased several small seedlings - juniper and two types of thuja.
LANDING
I selected open sunny places for plants with loamy soil without stagnant water. My plot is small, so the trees are well protected from the wind by nearby buildings.
At the bottom of each planting hole I placed a metal (tin) can to acidify the soil. The holes were filled with pre-prepared soil from under coniferous trees, taken from a mixed forest, adding a little peat to it.
The thuja and juniper have taken root well and are actively growing.
FURTHER CARE
Although my trees grow on the sunny side, I have never noticed burns on the needles, so I don’t shade them.
During long periods of drought, I water generously.
Sometimes in the summer I feed it with a special fertilizer for conifers (according to the instructions).
I started doing formative pruning in recent years, when the trees grew bigger and began to take up a lot of space. I trim the shoots in late autumn or early winter, when it is no longer hot, but there is still no frost, giving the desired shape to the crown.
In winter, I shake snow off the branches to prevent them from breaking.
I clear old yellow needles from the crown if necessary. I do this in early spring or autumn.
FAILED TRANSFER
When the thujas grew older, one of them began to interfere with the passage and other plantings. At that time, the tree had already reached a little more than 1 m in height and had grown well in width. I decided to transplant it.
In the fall, my friend and I tried to dig up the root ball so as to cause less damage to the roots, and transplanted the thuja to a new place. Although the plant was watered, it still did not survive - it dried up.
I won’t conduct such experiments anymore. I restrain the growth of conifers by annual pruning.
© Author: Leonid RYZHKEVICH
Experts comments
Leonid, you did the right thing by adding peat and pine litter as an acidifier when planting. But metal cans were superfluous. The fact is that, in addition to the supposedly beneficial iron released when the can decomposes, heavy metal salts are also released into the soil, and this harms the soil. In addition, the plant also will not absorb iron as an element in this form. In this case, it is better to carry out foliar feeding with iron chelate.
Regarding transplantation, keep in mind for the future, that thujas in the middle zone can be replanted in spring and autumn, until October, so that they have time to take root. Around mature trees (over 4-5 years old), a year before replanting, a trench 30 cm deep is dug along the approximate perimeter of the root ball. This way, gradually, it is easier for the root system to prepare for replanting. Some roots will still be cut off. Large sections should be treated with garden varnish, powdered with Kornevin, or the root ball should be kept in a container with a rooting agent solution if the tree is not too large. The root collar should be at ground level when planting.
When planting thujas, it is better to immediately take into account that the minimum distance between the tree and another plant should be at least 80 cm, so as not to disturb the conifer that has gained power and strength by replanting.
© Author: Anastasia YENTSOVA, agronomist, St. Petersburg
Reference by topic: Reproduction of conifers from A to Z - cuttings, substrate and care
HOW TO PLANT A SPRUCE ON THE PLOT CORRECTLY - VIDEO
© Author: Lyubov Kozlova Saratov region
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