Growing honeysuckle on a farm scale - top dressing and propagation
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GROWING HONESKY FOR SALE - MY INSTRUCTIONS FOR PLANTING AND CARE
GROWING HONESKY - LOVE, FEED, MULCH
Honeysuckle is very sensitive to soil fertility, therefore, with regular top dressing, growth, and, accordingly, yields increase significantly. In the conditions of household plots, it is enough to apply annually, depending on the age of the bushes, from 1 to 3 buckets of humus or compost for each bush.
This is top dressing, which supplies plants with the necessary nutrients, and mulch, which levels out changes in soil temperature, retains moisture and ensures the development of beneficial soil microorganisms.
It is even better to combine organic matter with mineral supplements. For this, 50 g of complex mineral fertilizer (nitroammophoska, kemira, etc.) is applied annually under each bush, in which there are trace elements, and the main elements are contained in equal amounts (20:20:20). At the end of summer, 20-30 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied.
HONESKY ON FARM SCALE
In industrial conditions, top dressing is carried out using professional fertilizers. I like Dutch MIVENA fertilizers the most. On plantings of honeysuckle (3500 bushes / ha (35 bushes / hundred square meters)) I apply the following feeding scheme.
Every year in March I add 3 kg/hundredth of basic nutrition Field-Cote 18 + 8 + 12-7MgO * TE 4M to the rows for plants.
In the following months, I carry out foliar top dressing with a solution application rate of 400 l / ha (4 l per 1 weave).
For honeysuckle, fruiting at the end of May. I spend three top dressings: the 1st and 4th weeks of April and the 2nd week of May with Granusol MIVENA Granusol WSF 12+7+25+ 2MgO-8CaO-Te (Red). 4 kg/ha (40 mg per 1 weave).
For honeysuckle with fruiting in the second half of June, three foliar top dressings are needed: in the 3rd week of April. 2nd week of May and 1st week of June with MIVENA Granusol WSF 12+7+25+2MgO-8CaO+Te (Red) (4 kg/ha (40 g per 1 weave)).
For honeysuckle with fruiting in late June and early July, I do four foliar top dressings with the same preparation and in the same quantities in the following terms: 3rd week of April. 2nd and 4th week of May and 2nd week of June.
After harvesting, honeysuckle care does not stop, it needs four more top dressings: in the 4th week of July and the 4th week of August with Granusol 10 + 10 + 30 + 6MgO + te (4 kg / ha (40 g per 1 weave): in the 2nd week of August and the 2nd week of September Granusol 15+10+14+12CaO+te (4 kg/ha (40g per 1 weave)).
Such "feeding" provides honeysuckle with good nutrition and allows you to get the maximum yield. This is a complete honeysuckle fertilization scheme that provides balanced nutrition during all phases of plant development. Any deviations from the scheme will lead to poor growth, lower yields and smaller berries. This scheme can also be applied in home garden conditions for a small number of plants.
See also: 10 questions and answers about honeysuckle - varieties, planting and care
HARVESTING HONESKY FOR SALE
And the best part is picking berries. Since the berries are rather small, they are harvested differently from other crops: a clean agrofibre is spread under the bush and the berries are shaken off. On some varieties, the berries do not ripen at the same time and overripe ones can crumble. If there are few bushes, you can leave agrofibre under them around the clock and periodically collect berries from it. Other materials can be used instead of agrofibre. The shelf life of berries is 3-5 days. In industrial cultivation, mechanized harvesting is used, for which special combines have been created.
Reference by topic: Do I need to prune the honeysuckle after planting, why does the bark burst and there are no berries?
WE REPLACE HONESKY IN DIFFERENT WAYS
There are several ways to propagate honeysuckle. The simplest is the rooting of horizontal layering. In early spring, the lower shoots are bent to the ground and dug in, leaving the top above the ground. During the season, the pit is watered. Until autumn, roots form on the buried part of the shoot. The rooted shoot is separated from the mother liquor, carefully dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.
Adult bushes can be propagated by division. To do this, the bush is dug up and cut into pieces, which are planted in a permanent place. But with these methods of reproduction, you can get a small number of seedlings.
Propagation by cuttings (lignified or green) is much more effective. To propagate honeysuckle with lignified cuttings, in late autumn, after leaf fall, annual shoots are cut out and cut into cuttings 17–20 cm long. Cuttings can be planted immediately in a permanent place or stored in a joke, and planted in spring. Cuttings are planted so that 1-2 buds remain on top. In the spring, the plantings are loosened and watered. By autumn, very powerful seedlings grow. One trouble - with such reproduction, only 15-20% of the cuttings take root. The yield of seedlings is much higher if rooting takes place in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Then more than 50% of the cuttings take root, with the use of root formation stimulants - even more.
The most productive green cuttings. At the beginning of the coloring of the berries, young green shoots are cut. They are cut into cuttings with two internodes. The lower leaves are removed, and the upper ones are cut in half. Prepared cuttings are planted in cassettes, cups with a substrate. The substrate is used professional or composed of neutral peat and sand in a ratio of 1:3.
You can plant cuttings in boxes according to the scheme 7 × 5 or 10 × 5 cm. The cuttings are planted obliquely. A necessary condition for green cuttings is high humidity (85%).
This is achieved in greenhouses equipped with artificial fog installations. If this is not available, you can place containers with seedlings in PET bags and put in the shade (but the yield of seedlings will be less). The optimum rooting temperature is 20-25 °C. Under favorable conditions, rooting begins in 7-10 days. In July, when the growth reaches 5 cm or more, the plants are planted for growing in open ground or transplanted into containers. I heard the opinion that such small rastyushki may not survive the winter. This has never happened in my practice. Death after overwintering was no more than 1%. The next year after rooting, very powerful plants grow, ready for planting in a permanent place.
See also: Canadian varieties of honeysuckle - photo, name and description
HONESKY VARIETIES: GOOD AND DIFFERENT
Thanks to the efforts of breeders in recent decades, the range of honeysuckle has been replenished with a large number of excellent varieties. Today the most popular are Cinderella, Karina, Large-fruited, Lapis Lazuli, Bazhovskaya, Katyusha, Bakchar's Pride, Bakchar's Giant, Duet, Zinc, Honey, Silginka.
These are varieties of predominantly Russian selection. Recently, due to climate change and rather mild winters, their significant drawback has manifested itself - flowering in the winter (re-blooming). And subsequent frosts in February (and this happens almost every year) can destroy the entire crop. Part of this can be prevented by using finishers that not only winterize the plants, but also keep buds from budding in warmer winters.
Canadian varieties are much less prone to re-flowering. They appeared on our market a few years ago. These are Honeybi, Borialis, Indigo Gem, Boreal Bist, Boreal Beauty, Aurora, etc. They are distinguished from the varieties of Russian selection by a later ripening period (June), a more intensive increase in yield and the absence of repeated flowering even in the conditions of the South of Ukraine. Both of them have both positive and negative qualities. Therefore, it is too early to talk about which varieties will be more in demand.
With regard to industrial cultivation, today there are already plantations of honeysuckle with a size of 1-3 hectares. Honeysuckle berries are still a rarity in stores and markets, rather a curiosity. The demand for them is not as great as for other berries, especially considering the price. At the moment, the development of large industrial plantations is hampered by the lack of demand for frozen honeysuckle berries (producers of frozen products are the main consumers of berries in the world).
But I am sure that over time, honeysuckle will take its rightful place in our gardens.
DANGEROUS PESTS OF HONESTUCK - VIDEO
© Author: Oleg SAVEYKO, farmer.
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How to propagate honeysuckle
I tried to cut cuttings and root like currants, but they did not take root. Then I decided to do this: I bent down the branches of honeysuckle that grow closer to the ground, fixed them in this position with wooden slingshots and piled up the places where the branches were in contact with the ground, compost and sawdust.
Good honeysuckle seedlings are not easy to find in our area. For a long time I tried to propagate a bush of my favorite berries, but to no avail.
I kept the sawdust and compost moist all the time. Soon the bent branches began to give young shoots.
In autumn, I separated the young seedlings, which had already given roots, from the main bush with secateurs. And now I have 3 excellent honeysuckle bushes. They are 2 years old and last year each had 3-5 berries.