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TOMATOES IN THE HEAT - HOW TO GET A GOOD HARVEST

“Last year I was surprised by my tomatoes. The harvest was excellent, despite the monsters

the heat!” So the author begins the letter and immediately reveals the secrets of his amazing success. Yes there is a lot to learn

Our summer residents write a lot of interesting things, I would like to share my observations. Usually, my tomatoes were tied in three or four bunches with fruits, and then one continuous “gap” began: buds appeared, then flowers, appeared and dried up. And only in the second half of August, the fruits began to set again almost under the very ceiling of the greenhouse. And I wanted the tomatoes to be located along the entire stem.

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Many readers write that they cut off buds and flowers after the third or fourth brush for better ripening of the remaining ones. But it's not for me. I read various recommendations, but still I could not manage to keep all the ovaries.

TOMATO HARVEST WITHOUT "GAPS"

Don't forget the heat of last summer. After June 10, already in the morning, the thermometer needle passed upwards beyond the 30 ° mark! We go to the lake and return to dinner. I look into the greenhouse, and on the thermometer 47 °! What is the harvest

But what is strange - the plants are green, it is imperceptible that they suffer. Many fruits are still unripe, the lower leaves have not yet been removed, the ground is mulched with dry grass. In the evening I watered under the root, but this is already imperceptible. I take buckets, pour five buckets of water onto each path (there are two paths in the greenhouse) and two more buckets at the door. I water under the root every two to three days. I water the paths as best I can when the ground under the hay is already dry, but quite often.

At the beginning of mass fruiting, I give top dressing with superphosphate (dry fertilizer), since it is still insoluble in water. I make punctures with a pitchfork under each bush and sprinkle the ground (1 tbsp each under a bush).

Before that, I remove the hay, loosen the soil, then return the hay to its place and water it. Soil acids gradually dissolve superphosphate and nourish plants until the end of summer. There are no root burns. I do this every year.

A week later I feed with potassium sulfate: 1 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water and 0-5 liters of solution for each bush. Then I feed only with bio-fertilizers - “boom”, humates, and not always, but according to the condition of the plants, so as not to harm.

Basically, the care was normal, only more water poured onto the paths. The heat continued until September. But as a result - a good harvest and no "gaps" with dried buds and flowers. I didn't have any explanation for this. The dream came true, but why, I don’t know! A. N. Krasnovid in the article "Tomatoes without water." Oh this is for me! Thank you, Alla Nikolaevna, they explained the processes occurring in the plant in a simple and accessible language. We still went through this at school, I just forgot

What needs to be done to make tomatoes survive the heat? How to save tomatoes from heat and drought?

Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes in the heat - planting seedlings and caring for it

RAIN FOR TOMATOES TO HELP!

Transpiration - with its help, the plant regulates the thermal regime of tissues. If only there was enough water. I have sandy soil, water does not linger in the soil layer. There was no excess moisture in such heat, despite abundant watering. Plants are comfortable. Doors and vents are open around the clock, the greenhouse is ventilated. Here is the harvest all over the stem!

In the photographs, tomatoes in different periods of growth:

1. Mid June. I hope you can see that the flowers are all over the stem.

2. Mid-July, fruits ripen.

3-4. August. Some of the fruits have been removed, but there are still many ovaries - up to the ceiling of the greenhouse.

Thanks to the heat, the tomatoes ripened together, the ovaries went along the entire stem. I wish you all such good harvests!

But the cucumbers in the garden pleased in the second half of the summer. I grow Bush (variety), Bush F1 (hybrid) and Real Colonel. The first, despite the name, did not bush at all, but stretched along the entire length of the beds with thin lashes strewn with barren flowers. There are very few fruits, beautiful, but bitter. And F1 all went into foliage and tops, also beautiful.

I looked, looked at this bed, and I wanted to dig it up. But there was no time and it was too hot. In August there was a little rain, the bed became even more beautiful. And somehow, after seven days, I looked under the foliage, and there were Cucumbers of all sizes!

In recent years, cucumbers have not worked out for me in the garden; I harvested the crop from four bushes of my beloved Courage in the greenhouse. Of course, I watered this garden with cucumbers at first, but then the rain helped.

These are the unexpected successes of the last hot summer.

NOTE: SEED BUYER REMINDER

Check if there is a re-sticker on the bag. It may well be that the seller did not sell his product last year and is trying to sell it this year.

Pay attention to the inscriptions "storage for a long time", "transportable", "fruits do not crack." As a rule, these are not very tasty varieties bred for sale.

Do not trust assurances like "the variety is resistant to many diseases"! It is better if the package lists specific diseases.

If you are assured that "the taste of the fruit is good," then the tomatoes are simply tasteless. Taste must be great!