Is it true that there are a lot of wireworms in the garden due to the use of rye as green manure?
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Rye AS green manure and wireworm - is there an interconnection?
The wireworm is a real disaster for the gardener. But is it fair to blame the rye crops for this? This is a big misconception, says the author of the letter. And you should definitely listen to him!
One of the reasons for the atrocities of the wireworm, many authors of letters consider rye crops as green manure. B. I. Pustovalov from Moscow, in the fifth method of dealing with the wireworm, sentenced rye, along with burdock, to destruction (“I wish he had not become brutalized”). He is echoed by Ivan Maksimovich Poskrebyshev from the city of Usolye-Sibirskoye, Irkutsk Region (“Why does the wireman give a damn about all the advice?”). Like, rye is a real oasis for wireworms.
Nonsense!
RYE AND WIRE - FROM OWN EXPERIENCE
It is a pity that many are mistaken in this matter. I will give examples from my own experience. For more than 10 years we have been sowing rye - sometimes just one, sometimes mixed with vetch, sometimes mixed with beans. In October, be sure to cover all green manure in the soil, and the bed with them goes under the snow. And there, in the ground, earthworms work, even under the snow. In the spring, when garden crops are planted, not even a blade of grass remains - only humus, which is a waste product of earthworms.
And against the nematode on potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries, etc. rye crops are the best remedy! Although marigolds and calendula are also good helpers in this matter.
So what to do with the wireworm?
Fight weeds! First of all, with wheatgrass, meadow grass and other grass that grows in your row-spacings, furrows and on the boundaries between neighboring plots.
We have all the furrows between the beds and between the plots cleared of weeds, there is just bare land. In this case, I use a flat cutter and a well-sharpened hiller. And when harvesting potatoes, we don’t have a single (!) Potato damaged by a wireworm!
Reference by topic: Rye as siderat
LESS MINERAL FERTILIZERS AND WIRE WILL BE LESS!
I do not use mineral fertilizers on vegetable plots at all, as they make the soil acidic. We use crushed eggshells, which accumulate 5 kg during the winter, bone meal - fish and chicken bones, bone remains after cooking for jelly. We burn all this in a garden stove and grind it into flour.
We feed with various infusions, incl. ash, and AL solutions. Bessarab No. 1 and No. 2. Agromel is sold in our garden stores - we also use it, especially for cabbage plants. In general, I consider ash to be the best, most useful and environmentally friendly fertilizer.
But mustard should be sown with caution, since it is a cruciferous culture. Therefore, in the place where it grew, you can not plant cabbage, turnips, radishes, radishes, daikon.
Once, digging up mustard, which was very high, I had to first uproot it and lay it flat in the grooves, and then bury it. So, on some specimens there was a keel on the roots. Is this what we need? To then fight with the keel on the cabbage? Well, I do not. We do not want to lose even one head of cabbage. After all, we plant cabbage on the north side of the bed with potatoes: it grows very well next to potatoes, especially in a sultry hot summer, as, for example, last year.
So, dear summer residents, think for yourself and fight weeds wisely, catch click beetles, do not acidify the soil with mineral water. It can be used for flowers, trees, ornamental shrubs.
In hot, dry summers, a lot of starch is formed in potatoes. My job is to peel vegetables for cooking, and I've noticed white streaks on the tubers while peeling potatoes. This is starch. We decided to prepare our own starch.
More than 1 g of starch is obtained from 100 kg of peeled potatoes. We have already prepared a lot, in the store it is a little expensive. And here we also dry the squeezes, and in the spring we bury under the currant bushes together with the cleanings, dried and ground on a baking sheet with a bottle of champagne.
Reference by topic: Wireworm - how to deal with this beetle
RYE AS SIDERATE - IS IT WORTH SOWING IT?
© Author: Vladimir Ivanovich CHAINIKOV. town Chistye Prudy, Kostroma region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- The use of calimagnesia and phosphoric fertilizers - proper top dressings
- Growing green manure - simple about the complex + soil green manure TABLE
- Correct preparation of compost from waste for site fertilization. Vermikompostery.
- Seedlings and EM preparations
- Kemira fertilizer (Fertika) - reviews, questions and answers
- Composting by Batov
- 5 best green manures for spring
- Fertilizers for indoor plants
- What siderates to sow in the Leningrad region - my reviews
- Autumnal fertilizing for the fruit garden - a table-memo
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Tell me how specifically and quickly get rid of the wireworm.
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If emergency measures are required, then only pesticides specially designed for wireworm control can help. Many of them have a complex effect and protect potatoes not only from soil pests and the Colorado potato beetle, but also from diseases (common scab, dry and wet rot, black leg), and weather stresses. However, they are recommended to be used for pre-planting treatment of tubers or for introduction into wells during planting. For use in private household plots are allowed:
Taboo TRIO (the main active ingredient is imidacloprid). It is a set of three ampoules (Taboo + Sinclair + Zerebra Agro). Protects for 45 days also from the Colorado potato beetle, diseases and stress.
Prestige, SC (has two a.i. - imidacloprid and pencycuron). Effective against gnawing and sucking pests (including soil-dwelling ones), as well as diseases. The protective action lasts 50 days. Russian analogues of the drug - Tuber-shield, KS; Patron, KS. Terradox, G (a.i. - diazonin). Effective against medvedka, wireworm, cabbage flies, and other soil pests. It is introduced into the soil at planting, valid for 30 days. Analogues - Grizzly, G; Provotoks, G. Preparations based on this active ingredient are not recommended for early ripe potato varieties.
Of the autumn activities, sowing immediately after harvesting green manure yields a good effect (the most effective are mustard and phacelia).
It is important not to leave for the winter and remove the remaining tubers and root crops from the site in time, thereby depriving the pest of a comfortable wintering. It is possible to get rid of most of the pests (from 50% to 90%), deeply - on the bayonet of a shovel - by digging the soil in the area in late autumn. This technique is especially effective if used together with the sowing of green manure.
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A wireworm started up on the site. Changing the place for potatoes does not work. We tried to process tubers before planting with Prestige - it did not help. What to do?
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- It is known that the wireworm loves acidic soil, so in the fall, add 200 g of slaked lime or 300 g of chalk (wood ash) per 1 sq.m of soil for digging. You can also use dolomite flour, but it will take 500 g per 1 sq.m of plot.
In addition, fertilize the garden three times a year with ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate (25 g per 1 sq. M for spring and autumn digging, as well as dissolved in the middle of summer).
Three times during the summer (in June, July and August), pour potatoes under the root with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per bucket of water). Pour 1 tbsp under the bush. If this set of measures does not help, you will have to resort to the help of insecticides (Barguzin, Pochin). Remember that these drugs are poisonous, so use them strictly according to the instructions on the package.
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We defeated the wireworm!
For several years we struggled with the wireworm - nothing helped ... The number of pests was constantly increasing. Then friends suggested that first you need to improve the composition of the soil (for example, green manure). In September, oil-bearing radish and rapeseed were sown for subsequent plowing. The following year, lupine was grown on the plot, and in the fall everything was sown with rapeseed. Before the snow fell, the rape rose, and in the spring it quickly began to grow. In mid-May, they mowed it down and plowed the greens. Immediately after that, potatoes of the Zhuravinka variety were planted. By autumn, not a single tuber damaged by a wireworm was found! Now in the fall, immediately after harvesting potatoes, I sow rapeseed - and there is no wireworm!