END OF SUMMER - WORK IN THE BERRY, VINEYARD AND GARDEN
The berry parade continues. The harvest of raspberries, blackberries, currants, gooseberries ripens. Know collect! If the weather was favorable, you chose the right varieties and took good care of the plants, then the harvest should be worthy.
After harvesting, cut off the fruited shoots of raspberries and put them in a compost heap. And on mid- to mid-late maturing varieties, pinch off the tops to encourage side shoots and thus increase next year's harvest.
After the end of the fruiting of strawberries, collect overripe and gray rot-affected berries, mow and burn the leaves. This will help prevent damage to plants by strawberry mites.
IT'S TIME TO RENEW THE STRAWBERRY LANDING.
As seedlings, use rooted rosettes from the mother liquor. Carefully prepare the site for planting: dig it up, select the roots of weeds and cockchafer larvae from the ground, which can destroy future plantings. To protect plants from cockchafer larvae and other soil pests, use confidor by adding it to a clay mash (1 g of the drug per 5 liters of clay mash). When planting, dip the strawberry roots into the mash. This method protects strawberries from pests for two years. When choosing a place for a new strawberry bed, one should not forget about crop rotation: strawberries can be returned to the same place only after 5-6 years. Transplanted plants should preferably be shaded from the sun. To do this, you can stretch a shading net over the bed or stick a twig with leaves at each bush. Some gardeners even use cabbage leaves to shade young strawberry plants.
Feed berry bushes with diluted compost and infusion of chopped green grass (shredded weeds insist in water for 5-7 days).
Since flower buds form on most fruit crops in July for the next year's harvest, limit watering, exclude nitrogen fertilizers, replace them with potash and phosphorus fertilizers (wood ash, superphosphate, nitroammophoska), this will contribute to the maturation of wood.
In the vineyard, regularly inspect the bushes, pinch, ration the bunches. A large number of bunches and inhibition of vine growth testify to an overload with a crop. In this case, remove a third of the clusters with secateurs. Then those who remain will ripen in time, accumulate the necessary amount of sugar, and the vine will not be exhausted.
At the end of July, start chasing the vine: pinching out the growing point on the tops (crowns) of the shoots.
It's time to carry out the "green" garter of the vine (for this they use rags, the shoots are tied with a free knot).
In July, as a rule, mildew spreads in the vineyard. Rainy weather favors the development of the disease. Since the weather conditions of this year caused the active development of fungal diseases in the spring, protective measures cannot be dispensed with. At the beginning of the month, treat the vineyard with one of the systemic fungicides approved for sale to the public. For example, Ridomil, Arceride, Chorus protect plants for 20 days, so that even the growth that has grown during this time will be protected from fungal attack.
Apple, pear, plum also need protection from fungal diseases (fruit rot). In this case, the use of chorus and fast preparations is also effective. It is necessary to observe the waiting time after treatment with the drug. Therefore, the last spraying should be carried out no later than 20-30 days before harvest.
When harvesting, rotten and mummified fruits should also be removed, as they serve as a source of infection. Collecting and burying affected fruits to a great depth is an effective measure for the prevention of fungal diseases in the garden.
Starting from mid-July, it is time for budding. You can perform it much earlier, the main thing is that the bark is well behind on the rootstocks. To do this, in case of dry weather, water the rootstocks abundantly 2-3 days before the operation. Repeat watering two days after surgery to improve plant survival.
In a young orchard, bend the branches. To do this, move them to a horizontal position and tie them with twine. This will speed up the entry of the tree into fruiting.
In a fruit-bearing garden, install chatals (props with a fork at the end). Chatals should be placed as close to the ends of the branches as possible to avoid breaks. It is advisable to wrap the slingshots on them with a rubber band so that the branches do not slip and the bark is not injured. For this purpose, it is possible to lay pads of paper folded in several layers, hay, etc. between the chatals and branches. After use, burn these pads - caterpillars and codling moth larvae gather in them.
August is the end of summer. Although the day is still hot, the nights are getting longer and much cooler. Feels like autumn is coming.
Our main concern this month is harvesting and processing the harvest. Early and mid-ripening varieties of plums, summer apples and pears ripen, and the most delicious late-ripening peaches. Collect ripened fruits, process the harvest into jam, jam, jelly, jam, juice, etc.
The planting of strawberries continues.
Install chatals to trees of autumn and winter varieties of apple and pear.
Keep collecting scavenge. Use large fruits for processing (drying, making compote, juice, jam, etc.), and bury the rest. Do not leave the carrion overnight: codling moth caterpillars leave the fruit at night and again crawl up the tree, where they find places for pupation. It must be said that with timely pruning, thinning of the ovary, treatments for diseases and pests, carrion is not formed.
Carry out systematic weeding of tree trunks and row spacing, remove weeds. They are intermediate hosts for aphids, breeding grounds for budworms and pathogens.
Prepare a room for storing fruits of autumn and winter ripening.
In August, pay special attention to the vineyard. It's time to harvest the early and mid-early grape varieties. Continue stepping grapes and chasing shoots. Chasing is done to halt the vegetative growth of the vine and divert nutrients to ripen it in order to prepare the vine plant for winter. To do this, hold the top of the shoot with your left hand, and pinch the growth point on the crown with your right hand (2-3 mm from the end of the shoot). If you simply cut off the tops of the shoots by a few centimeters, this will only provoke the germination of the underlying buds and lead to a decrease in the frost resistance of the vine. With proper chasing, only a few nearby, slightly matured eyes germinate, which does not harm the plant.
Spend foliar top dressing of the bushes with infusion of ash (1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water, leave for 1 week, strain) to promote better ripening of the shoots.
Continue summer grafting (budding) of fruit trees. Stone fruits are grafted until August 15, pome fruits (apple, pear) - until the end of the month. Check the status of the vaccinations made in July: if they fail, there is time to repeat them on the same rootstock.
Spend summer pruning of trees to maintain the crown in optimal size.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- June in the garden and at the dacha - work to be done on the plot, garden and garden
- Work in the flower garden in the month of September - what and when to do?
- Flowering garden and work in it at this time
- Care calendar for bushes and beautifully flowering
- May in the flower garden - breeding planting and care
- Care of the garden in the autumn (in October)
- March and obligatory work in the garden and in the country - what must be done?
- Autumn work in the garden - do not relax
- Autumn care for conifers
- April works in the garden
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